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kiiarah

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Everything posted by kiiarah

  1. Thanks for the advice Dna. Unfortunately there is only this one fish store within about an hour and a half's drive. I just don't have a means of getting to the next city to have the water tested by another store. Living in a small town sure does make this sort of thing more difficult. I actually did just remember that when I last changed the water, the tank had gone a bit longer than usual without cleaning during final's week and when I did clean it I accidentally started to rinse the bio-filter. Old habits die hard, I used to actually throw away the bio-filter when it got mucky because I thought it was mold or fungus. >.< Could I have killed the bb and crashed the cycle? I only rinsed it for a few seconds, but I can see how that might be enough to kill the bacteria. I have no plants, but quite a bit of algae lately. I do have a bubble stone running, so I am tentatively planning a second large water change and Melafix. However, if I am doing daily large water changes will I still be able to go by the usual Melafix instructions or will it remove enough of the Melafix to render it ineffective? Also, should I add more cycling agent to try to restart the cycle if it has in fact crashed?
  2. Right, sorry about the typo there. Actually the only other place that even carries fish supplies in town is the big W, and to my knowledge they don't test water. Is it an option to order online? That is a possibility, but my concern for the time being is what I can to with the resources I have to do my best to ensure that he recovers. Had I known that the store here was so unreliable I would never have trusted them with the water tests and would have gotten my own kit long ago. Hindsight is 20/20 I guess. In the meantime, I have a fungus clear medication (though the pattern does not appear to be fungal), the Melafix with seems like my best bet right now, and the aquarium salt which it sounds like I can't use until I am able to figure out what my real readings are. I am thinking maybe a second large water change after I get back from class just in case that reading is actually accurate, but just in case it seems wise to try to dilute the levels some. I still don't understand how I could have no nitrates or nitrites however, shouldn't I have readings of one or the other indicating that it is or isn't cycled? O.o
  3. Right, sorry about the typo there. Actually the only other place that even carries fish supplies in town is the big W, and to my knowledge they don't test water.
  4. I just had a thought. I had just finished a water change when I took that water sample and had used prime in the new water. I am reading that prime gives a false positive because it binds ammonia but does not remove it. Is it possible that the ammonia is simply bound by the prime and has not been removed yet since it was just added? That may explain the high reading. Just a thought. Is that even a remotely possible explanation?
  5. Thank you for the reply. I assumed the tank had cycled because of the length of time and the biological agent I used at start-up. I also was told by this same store that the readings were all where they should be, so that first time I just assumed they knew what they were doing and gave me correct information. I have had a few reasons recently to doubt the knowledge of the employees there, so I am starting to view their advice more skeptically. From what I have read the ammonia reading is quite high, but would the fish be acting so happy and comfortable if that were an accurate reading? They are not gasping, bottom-sitting, lethargic. It seems like with ammonia that high I would see some symptoms of discomfort, but there are none. : /
  6. Alright I have the test results back. They detected a 1 ppm ammonia reading, which seems unusually high. I had done a 60% water change immediately before taking the water sample so this seems to mean that the reading before changing over half the water had to have been 2 ppm or higher, yet the fish are showing no signs of distress. They have no red marks, no signs of ammonia toxicity. The PH is 7.2, Nitrate and Nitrite readings are showing at 0. This also seems strange because as I understood it a cycled tank should have no nitrates and should have nitrites. The tank has been up and running for at least four months, so I do not understand how I could be at 0 on both readings unless the cycle had just completed the second phase. I am a bit suspicious of this fish store since this is the first time I have asked them for specific numbers (usually they just say everything looks "good"). No fish have been added, and I do use gravel but only enough to cover the bottom of the tank. I am also getting more brown algae growth than usual lately, though I don't know if that has anything to do with the fins. I don't have any recent photos of the tank handy, but I did post extensively while setting up filtration and posted photos of the tank in the past that were approved by various members on this forum, so I think those are fine. I am using a bubble stone as well. I am really at a loss for what to do now. Any help would be very much appreciated. :-/
  7. I can't make it back out tonight but a relative was nice enough to take a water sample to the fish store for me. Will post results soon.
  8. Hey everyone, thanks for your suggestions. I just got back from the store since I am going to be stuck in classes this evening and wanted to have some treatment option in case I needed it. I wound up getting Melafix antibacterial treatment. Is this a very harsh medication or would it be considered safe to use just as a precaution? I am not sure I would classify his condition as early signs anymore since I was expecting a fuzz to be present in progressed fin rot cases. I now know that only fungal fin rot displays fuzz and his fins are very ragged. I now suspect that he has a moderate case of bacterial fin rot. Is it safe to treat with salt and Melafix at the same time? Also is there anything about Melafix I should know, good or bad? I would prefer to use the Melafix over the salt if it is equally effective. I have never treated with salt before and the prospect scares me much more than the tea tree solution. Thanks again for your input, I am about to do a 50% water change so that the tank is clean. I will check back after to see where to go from there. Oh also would it be alright to treat with salt and/or Melafix with Felix in the tank even though he shows no signs of fin rot? I am a bit concerned that he could develop problems in the near future and that Apollo just happened to show symptoms first. I would prefer to treat them both just to be safe if there is no reason to believe the Melafix treatment would harm Felix. Thank you so much for the suggestions so far.
  9. Hi everyone, I am posting because Apollo has started developing some very ragged fins recently. The weather has just warmed up a ton, I am not sure if this has placed additional stress on him but the tank is running at about a constant 80 degrees. It is a thirty gallon and is running 10x filtration. Both Felix and Apollo are showing no behavioral symptoms, they are very active and have a great appetite, seem to be sleeping well and are energetic during the day. The only thing that is out of the ordinary is Apollo's tail fin looks ragged, not shredding exactly, but just almost as though Felix has been biting at it. I thought at first that he may have gotten nipped, but it has progressed to the point that I am almost certain Felix is not to blame. Apollo's tail fin was originally the only one that looked nipped at, but now I am starting to see little notches out of his dorsal fin as well. He is a young red-cap Oranda and Felix is a regular fantail goldfish. I have not noticed any fin biting or aggressive behavior between them, so I think it is unlikely that there is any nipping going on. I have not tested the params recently because we just changed the water about four days ago (50%). The water was treated with prime after changing and the symptoms were there prior to the water change, so I do not think the cycle crashed or anything like that. I was hoping the water change would put the parameters where they need to be and possibly take care of whatever was causing the fin damage, but it does seem to be worsening. I have some Jungle FungusClear tabs here at the house but I do not have any medicated food. I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction as to what would be the best treatment. I did read that there is a parasite that causes ragged fins, so I am not sure how to tell if it is a parasite issue or a fungal one. Felix shows no symptoms at all, only Apollo. Also there is no fuzz anywhere along the damaged fins and they do not look red or infected. It doesn't look like any parasite or fungus eating away at the fins, more like they were dragged through the gravel or something, but I want to be sure I catch it early in case it is anything serious. Thank you so much everyone. EDIT: I am just reading that a fungal fin rot will rot the fins evenly, while a bacterial fin rot will cause them to look more ragged. The fins are not even close to evenly rotted, so I am pretty sure that it is a bacterial infection. Does this sound correct and any advice on the best antibiotic treatment? I have heard some fish will not eat the medicated pellets. Making a trip to the fish store in about 30 to grab a treatment, any advice on what to get would be great.
  10. Maybe I will try just filming next time I feed him. It took me a while to realize that he was getting excited about finding the pellet. After a while I realized he only did it when he found food. Silly little guy. ^_^
  11. Hey Sakura! Yeah he is a nymph, but not intentionally bred that I know of. The funny thing is he has a single tail but a double anal fin. Apollo has a double tail fin, but a single anal fin. I think his lack of a split tail is what makes him so darn fast, but he sure is energetic! I love how Apollo will see him coming and just take off like "Oh no, not this again!" lol. I wish I had been filming when he found the pellet though. He does this thing where he is really still, then his pectoral fins start going faster, then faster, then he just takes off in circles checking all over the ground. : I have never had a fish quite like him.
  12. I am always really careful to only drop pellets at meal times as fast as my little guys can eat them, but of course every once in a while they don't notice one and it goes into the gravel. They spend so much time foraging during the day I usually don't worry about removing them it if is only one or two, since they are always gone within a few minutes. Over the last couple of weeks I have noticed a really funny thing about Felix. He gets super excited when he stumbles across a piece of food on the floor, like bouncing off the walls crazy. It is like he spends so much time looking around and not finding anything, he just freaks out when he actually does find something, and then he spends about the next five minutes racing around the tank checking every pile of gravel and every glass marble just in case there is more. Tonight I finally thought to take a video of his antics. He had just found a pellet about a minute before this video was taken. I think he is checking all the other places he has found food in the past, since the current from the filters carries the food to the same areas and these are always the same places he stops. http://s229.photobucket.com/albums/ee277/tarynt_gryph/?action=view?t=ad822dbe.mp4
  13. In addition to this, the males will get what are called breeding stars on their gill plates during breeding season. This doesn't start happening until they are a bit older, but if you notice perfectly circular little white bumps on his gill plates, he is definitely a he. Just google "breeding stars" for some good ideas of what to look for. This is also good to know because I could easily see someone mistaking them for a fungus or parasite if they didn't know they were normal. Another thing with orandas is that when their wen starts to get new growth it appears first as a bit of a fuzzy white layer on the wen only. This can be very easily mistaken for fungus, and it never hurts to post a picture here just to be sure all is well, but don't necessarily get too worried if you notice anything white an fuzzy as long as it is only on his wen (that growth on his forehead). Good luck and enjoy your little one. Orandas are known for being a very friendly breed.
  14. I have very little experience with the symptoms you have described, but I wanted to check and see if you are soaking the pellets of antibiotic food before feeding them? I keep a small plastic cup by the fish tank and when I need to feed anything dry I scoop out some water and put the food in there to prep. That way, when I pour the water back into the tank the food goes with it and sinks straight to the bottom. This would also make it easier to direct the food to the area where he is sitting. Just put the food in a small container of water and as soon as you see it sitting at the bottom of the container you can pour it in. I hope this helps, the antibiotic food really is ideal. It is similar to how humans take antibiotics, we do not soak in them we take them internally. The ones that get added to the water might sometimes be the only option if the fish is not eating, but if you can get him to eat the medicated food it is always better. I have also heard that some fish reject the antibiotic pellets because they do not like the taste. If you see him eat a pellet and spit it back out, try removing them and feeding some pellets soaked in garlic juices. This has been known to persuade picky fish to tolerate the pellets. Good luck and post again if he still won't eat them, someone else might have some other ideas.
  15. Good morning dna, thanks so much for following up! ^_^ He is feeling much better now. He is not darting around anymore, though I have seen him start to swim behind the filter case and sit there for a few extra seconds once or twice. I think he has just discovered that it is a cozy area and sort of likes it, but he comes right out again and is not acting frightened anymore. The other day when he was hiding back there he looked terrified, not to sound too crazy, but his face definitely looked much more tense and alert than usual. He has stopped getting spooked by movement next to the tank, and has also stopped hanging out in the corner. I do think that he was just mildly traumatized by the vacuum, and the "floating" seems like he just exhausted himself darting around. I am going to try starting it up at the other end of the house next time so it isn't so sudden, and will also try covering the tank before going past it. If that doesn't work....well, I guess I am going to have a very dirty living room floor. : The fanciest fish I have had before Apollo was a little calico that died shortly after I brought him home. Ever since, I have thought of fancies as very fragile and hard to keep healthy, so I am always on pins and needles with little "pollo" (his new nickname, since the kids can't pronounce A-pollo). Felix is so hardy and active, I don't worry nearly as much. Apollo just seems so much more tiny and fragile than I am used to. All it takes is a little strange behavior and I am worried sick! I will probably never stop thinking of his as the "baby" of the tank. It is a huge relief to see him back to his normal antics.
  16. Lets see, the vacuuming next to the tank for the first time sure would seem to constitute a big event wouldn't it? I vacuumed about six hours ago, he actually hasn't gone up to the corner or hid behind the filter since I posted this, but like I said he was acting fine about an hour ago as well and suddenly got scared again, so I wouldn't trust that he is completely over whatever it was yet. I had no idea that they can still be easily spooked for up to two or three days! I figured after a calm hour it should all be fine. I guess maybe I should give it some time. Thank you for the reassurance. That vacuum is big, red, and very loud. I am sure he had no idea what it was, or whether it was after him. Maybe I should cover the tank when I vacuum in the future. Poor little guy, at least the relatives are gone and the house is calmer now, that seems to be helping.
  17. He hasn't been flashing, at least not in short unpredictable bursts. Instead it looks like something startles him so he tries to run away across the tank. He goes very fast and suddenly but also a very long distance, and it seems like he is swimming with intent. The tank was covered for a few hours, but is now open in hopes that it will cool off a bit. I just tried to take a video of him in the top corner, but now he is swimming around and having pellets with Felix. It seems like every time I get worried he looks better and every time I start to calm down he starts acting worse again. Like right now he is acting just like normal, but not ten minutes ago he was practically floating crooked at the top corner of the tank. I just can't understand why something like floating would come and go. Edit: It just occurred to me, they did try apple today, could that explain the floaty problem?
  18. Hi everyone, if you have been watching the updates on the main page, you probably saw me post a little while ago about Apollo suddenly acting very easily frightened. I wanted to post here because his behavior just seems so much like something is wrong, maybe someone here will have an idea of what it could be. He was acting normal until I started cleaning up for company to come over. I did vacuum by his tank which is what I think might have set him off initially, but even after turning the vacuum off he kept hiding behind the filter. He used to do this when Felix was bullying him, but this time he is doing it less consistently. He seems to be extremely startled by any movement. He will come out from the filter just long enough to suck around the gravel and swim around the plants. He looks very normal when he is doing this but then if I move to stand or someone leans closer to the tank he will race across the tank at full speed, either hitting the glass or swimming back behind the filter. He looks very frightened and will breathe heavily for a minute or two, but then come back out. He comes up to the top to eat just like normal, and did seem calmer when his tank was covered. I just can't understand why movement would startle him so much, he has been very calm even when the boys run past, up until now. He has no physical symptoms or anything, he is just much more skittish than normal. I keep looking over and thinking he looks fine and that he must be calming down, but then something will happen and he will race off behind the filter again. A couple days ago I moved the tank, at which time I did a complete water change because I couldn't move the tank with the water in it. The gravel and filters remained wet and the water was conditioned before adding it back in. Even after the change, he went right back to his normal behavior, so this is just something that has come about today. He is not darting around when the house is still, so I don't think it would be flukes as it seems like he would be doing it entirely randomly were that the case. Movement that normally doesn't bother him just suddenly seems to scare him half to death. He has also been sitting in a top corner of the tank more often than normal today. The house is much hotter than normal as well, and I just confirmed that his water temperature is 78 degrees. I don't know if a water change would stress him more of if leaving it would be worse, but it did occur to me that cooler water might help him feel better. Does anyone have any ideas? I am sorry I don't have the parameters. I take the water to the LFS to be tested since I do not yet have a kit of my own, but last time (about two weeks ago) they said the conditions were perfect. If it helps, Felix is not acting upset, only Apollo, though he does seem slightly more anxious and agitated that normal, which is what made me wonder if it might be temp related. I know goldies are less active in cold water and more active in warm water. Thanks everyone, I am really fond of this little guy and I don't want to assume this is nothing and be wrong.
  19. Haha! Did you catch who the DJs were? They love YouTube and he is their favorite artist.
  20. Well, the 30 gallon is officially set up on the other side of the living room. Although it wasn't hard to do, it took forever! Who knew how many steps moving a tank could take! Anyway, as requested here are a couple videos of the boys in their new space. The first is of the tank they were in while waiting for everything to get moved around. Since they were being so calm instead of zipping around like lightning bolts, I figured it was a perfect opportunity to get a video where you can actually see them. The second video is just showing the tank and the location in the house. If anyone sees any problems with the positioning in relation to the hall, powerstrip, etc, please let me know! You might need to mute the sound since my camera loves to distort when I record video. http://s229.photobucket.com/albums/ee277/tarynt_gryph/?action=view&current=fbcb276f.mp4 the boys waiting patiently to return home. Excuse the preschooler arm towards the end, he wanted to be in the video. http://s229.photobucket.com/albums/ee277/tarynt_gryph/?action=view&current=f0300cca.mp4 and the new location. Sorry about all the moving around, I wanted to make sure to get a full pan of the area the tank is now in.
  21. A very good point Sakura! I will only be putting these in for about two minutes at a time only during feeding time. Poor Apollo cannot catch the food as fast as Felix, and the only way to feed him enough is to let Felix eat wayyyy too much while I try to get Apollo to catch a few. I figure this way I can control how much they each get.
  22. I just finished making a tank divider, since my little water piggies can't figure out how to share meals. The supplies I used were two sheets of latch hook grid (found at any craft store) which were fifty cents each, three report cover spines (set of 6 report covers for 2.99) and some fishing line (free from family). I cut the grids to the size of my tank. One grid was wide enough but it took two grids to make it tall enough. After cutting them to size, I simply removed the plastic sheets from the report covers ans slid the hard plastic spine over the edges of the grid sheets. The report cover spines can be cut to size. I just cut as much of it as I could with scissors and then snapped it in half by hand. The grid made it very simple to sew the two sheets together with the fishing line. After I knotted the end of the line, I wove some down through the edge of the grid so that I could slide the binder spine over it and keep it tucked away. The project took between 20 and 30 minutes, but most of that was time spent stitching the grids together. The total cost of the project was around five dollars compared to thirty for a divider from the LFS. Be sure to make the divider just a bit wider than the tank, this allows you to wedge it inside and the extra size pushes the spines against the glass and holds the divider upright. I am including some picture links below. I would highly recommend this as an alternative to a store bought divider, especially if money is tight. Double checking size: http://s229.photobucket.com/albums/ee277/tarynt_gryph/?action=view&current=a53a25d7.jpg Close-up of the stitched grids: http://s229.photobucket.com/albums/ee277/tarynt_gryph/?action=view&current=cf9b7230.jpg Sliding divider spines over edges: http://s229.photobucket.com/albums/ee277/tarynt_gryph/?action=view&current=0c5ba6c8.jpg Finished divider: http://s229.photobucket.com/albums/ee277/tarynt_gryph/?action=view&current=ba6b71ed.jpg
  23. They are all so beautiful! It's great to hear they are doing well.
  24. The box for it says "Tetra Advanced Filtration System 20-40 gallon aquariums" on the side it lists "Model: FS 20-40 Flow Rate: 200 gph Max Aq Size: 40" The smaller filter is an Aqua-tech 5-15 power filter, rated at 90-100 gph. I have read different store descriptions that list either one. There is also an air stone in the tank that is about 5 inches long or so. I have the biggest filter in the middle of the tank now, the smaller filter in one corner, and the air-stone in the other corner. I am hoping this will provide the most even circulation/aeration.
  25. Thank you for your replies everyone! I so appreciate all the advice given here, and am thrilled to have the information to give my little ones the best life possible. In regards to what Hidr posted, I never mind having problems pointed out to me. I love it when one topic leads me to another area that needs addressing that I never would have thought of on my own. That is one reason I love to post photos of what I am talking about, that way if anything else is amiss, there is a chance someone else will notice and bring it to my attention. They are so active and look so much more at ease with the added filtration, no more hanging out at the surface for these two.
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