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Everything posted by kiiarah

  1. Ok no problem, the video is horrible quality. I guess since the other fish are out of there if it gets worse I will know they weren't the cause. If it is nipping it should only get better from here on out.
  2. Ok I will check it out, and do you think the fins look like they are shredded from nipping or should I be at all concerned about treating for fin rot?
  3. The ones I have are all powder, so it sounds like I would need to pick up something else.
  4. Thank you Alex, that was my suspicion as well. He does seem to be doing better after the water change, much more active and stable so maybe consistently clean water and low stress will help him out. The sand in his tank is moon sand, will that be thin enough? Also, have you ever heard of fish recovering from SWB when it is a physical problem and not bacterial or viral? I knew he would be prone to this when I purchased him, simply based on his movement and body structure, so I am prepared to deal with it but it would be great it he could get back to swimming normally. Oh also I don't have any Metro-Meds but I do have various products by API to treat both viral and bacterial problems. Will these work and can they be paired with Melafix since I am currently treating the tank with that for the fin damage.
  5. http://s229.photobuc...nt=1411b4da.mp4 here is the link to the video. Sorry about the bad image quality, it is not great at recording. <embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid229.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee277%2Ftarynt_gryph%2F1411b4da.mp4">
  6. I am working on uploading the vid right now. He does some swimming and some sitting, pretty much what you see in it is the extent of his behavior lately.
  7. Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level * Nitrite Level * Nitrate level * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API freshwater drops * Water temperature? 75 degrees * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 30 Gallons running for 2.5 years or so. * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Can't recall, one is tetra I believe and the other is an aquaclear. They were purchased to have 10x gph filtration in the tank but one of them was not running for a little while. * How often do you change the water and how much? 50% every 2 weeks, but again it went a bit longer recently because I started a new job. * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Today 80% * How many fish in the tank and their size? There were two small orandas and one medium fantail, now there is only the one small oranda. * What kind of water additives or conditioners? SeaChem Prime * What do you feed your fish and how often? Omega One sinking pellets 1-2 times per day, with supplemental brine shrimp (though they have only had these once recently) and occasional veggie wafers (sinking). * Any new fish added to the tank? No * Any medications added to the tank? Melafix dose 1 starting today. * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Only Melafix in the last year or so. * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? His tail and pectoral fins are torn (evenly like they are split) and look like they have been nipped, however the area on his tail fin does have a light grey edge to it, unsure whether this is a sign of healing or fin rot. He did poop a few hours after the water change but it was very long and stringy, same color as his food just long and thin. * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? He sits at the bottom of the tank either on his belly or nose down and has a hard time swimming. The fin damage seems to have made it harder for him to maneuver since his tail is shortened. He does swim in short spurts and until recently could swim fine during feedings but would go right back to resting in the corner after foraging. Water Parameters: Nitrite: 0 ppm Nitrate: I tested this twice and am still getting readings around 40 ppm, it is hard to tell exactly but definitely at least 40 ppm. This seems odd after such a large water change, the tap water tested between 0 and 5 ppm nitrate so I know it isn't from the tap. Ammonia: 0 ppm PH: 7.8 - 8.0 I hope this helps. He is no longer lying on his side, and when someone goes near the tank or the light goes on or off he actively forages through the sand he just cant stay buoyant. I should also specify that he was not removed from the main tank, the other fish were removed to a larger tank and he was left on his own in the main. This way I can treat and feed him however I need to without affecting the healthy fish. I thought I would mention this since there is unfortunately no way to know what the original parameters were before the water change. I sort of freaked out when I saw him having such a hard time moving and immediately rushed to change the water without even thinking about the parameters.
  8. Hi everyone, it has been a while since I have posted. I could really use some help diagnosing my oranda, Orion. I have had him for a little over a year now and he has always been a bit tilty but recently it has gotten much worse. His belly is very short and wide so I have always suspected that he was prone to constipation and swim bladder problems. He started sitting nose down in the corner at the bottom of the tank a little while back, but has always been able to swim up to get food. It seemed like he was struggling with staying level so he would just rest until dinner time. When he was eating he would always come up to the top and could compete for food against the other two in the tank. Neither of his tank mates display any symptoms of illness. This morning I walked by his tank and noticed that he was lying on his side on the sand. He seemed nearly unable to move, and his fins had been nipped. I immediately removed the other two from the tank and did a nearly full water change, adding prime of course. He is now level and trying to swim around in short bursts, but still sinking back to sit at the bottom after a couple of seconds. He is acting quite a bit better than he was a few hours ago, but I want to be sure I am doing everything I can to help him recover. I realize swim bladder, if that is the problem, can be chronic and am ready to leave the other two in the large tank if he cannot recover enough to be at a normal activity level, but I want to try to help him get back to normal and at least let his fins heal. I am also going to be treating him with melafix for the fin damage. I have not taken the tank parameters yet after the water change, but am about to and know what the correct levels are, so if I find any problems there I will correct them. I don't think it is an illness since he has been having a hard time getting around for so long without developing any other symptoms. I am certain the fin damage is from the larger of the fish that were in the tank and not fin rot. Oh also the tank he is currently in is a 30 gallon with double filtration (As in two 30 gallon filters) but I cannot remember the gph on either. I do know that I bought them for the 10x filtration so I am confident that they pump at least that. Is there anything more I can do at this point or is my best option to just give him time alone in the 30 gallon to recuperate and keep up the regular water changes? I did read somewhere that the main medication used to treat swim bladder really only targets viral or bacterial swim bladder disease, which he doesn't seem to have. But of course I am not certain that swim bladder is the problem. I have a whole arsenal of treatments and medications but don't want to just go throwing chemicals in the tank without knowing what I am trying to eliminate. I have tried giving him high fiber foods like brine shrimp and peas but it doesn't seem to help. I am planning on fasting him for a few days and then starting him back on just bits of pea. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. He is acting healthy other than the movement issues. His breathing is normal and he has no red streaks, white spots, etc. I am really hoping he will recover and this is not a permanent problem. Thank you so much in advance for your help.
  9. Thanks for the fast response Oerba! I will definitely watch it closely. It isn't enough to see but when I stick a sheet of paper in there it comes out wet. I do sort of think it is most likely that the hubby let water fall into the area and it spread. I think if it was out of direct sun in a narrow area it wouldn't evaporate as fast. Would you say if I leave it full for 24 hours and don't have any water dripping or moisture on the stand I am good to go? I am so nervous about this thing! I absolutely could not afford a new 55 gallon tank, so I am pretty desperate for this one to be safe.
  10. Update: I just thought to slide a piece of paper around the inside rim of the base and check for moisture amounts. It turns out there is some dampness even on the other side of the tank and I realized that my husband did spill a fair bit of water down the outside glass while filling it the other day. I am thinking it really may just be moisture that has been trapped since washing and filling it. Do you think a leak would have spilled over the rim of the base by now? It has been two and a half days and no water is pooling anywhere on the tank, it is only detectable if I slide a piece of paper about an inch down into the base between the glass and the plastic. How would I know if it was old water from washing or an actual leak?
  11. Hi guys, I figured this is worth checking on. I noticed a tiny bit of moisture on the outside corner of the base of the tank today. The weird thing is the gap between the glass and the plastic base is not full of water, there are no drips, and the stand is completely dry. Basically it looks like when the tank was first sealed some silicone oozed up on the plastic a bit and dried. It is now a thin flap of silicone but the seal on the inside of the tank is solid. Underneath this thin flap there was what could almost be condensation, but it is over 100 degrees outside so I can't imagine moisture staying for long enough to be noticeable. It is on the opposite corner of the tank from where we have been filling it so it can't be from drips or anything like that. I was wondering what I would need to do to seal this in case it leaking. Would it work to just seal that corner from the outside or would I have to reseal the entire inside of the tank? There isn't enough water to even drip down the side, basically just enough to put a small damp spot on a square of toilet paper and it is only noticeable if I push my finger across the silicone flap covering the damp part. If it is from a leak it is an extremely slow one. Here is an image of where the dampness was, the silicone on the outside is hard to see but it was basically on the top area of the plastic base. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Oh and if it is important, I did notice some soft mineral deposits between the tank base and the glass in this corner of the tank, which could be from rinsing it when we got it home or could be from a leak. The black arrow indicates where the moisture was found.
  12. Thanks MJ! I couldn't believe the price, I had to consciously mask my excitement when I asked them how much they wanted because I was afraid they would ask for more if they saw how much I wanted it. I just keep looking at it and imagining all the room the little ones will have to swim. ^_^ I figure it would be leaking now if it was going to, and also that the top quarter of the tank will have the least pressure on it. So in other words, if the bottom quarter is holding the weight just fine it should be safe to fill it the rest of the way. Still, I have heard that a leak that would be a slow drip at a quarter full can actually burst at completely full. Better safe than sorry I guess. Maybe I will give it until this evening to fill it all the way, that way it at least has 12 hours to leak if it is going to.
  13. Really?! Awesome because I am super impatient, lol. How long would you suggest letting it sit full to check for leaks? Is 24 hours sufficient? I Just brought it up to 75% about four hours ago, so it sat 25% full for a day, and 50% full for about a day and a half. Also, since it is currently out on the apt. patio, do you think it would be safe to move it and the stand to the bathroom to clean and rinse and all that? I can't think of a way to rinse it well while it is outside since there is no hose connection or anything, and we can't dump the water off the porch. :/
  14. I am just bumping this once in hopes of getting some advice before I take to cleaning the tank tomorrow.
  15. I am excited about trying it. ^_^ I was reluctant but when I read the success stories from others on the forum I just had to try it.
  16. I just thought I would share my experience with the different substrates. I have now had both gravel and bare-bottom tanks and have found that both have their advantages and disadvantages, ultimately it will be up to your personal preference of course, but it always helps having more information. I started my tanks using gravel and while it didn't seem to form any anaerobic pockets it did catch waste like crazy. I have also heard of larger fish choking on gravel. However, I also feel that foraging is a natural and healthy behavior, so that is one benefit. Since adding sand to my betta tank I have noticed how much cleaner it stays because the waste doesn't get trapped and gets sucked up more efficiently by the filter. However, sand is a very bad option in goldfish tanks unless it is heavy enough to sink quickly when it is kicked up by the fish. I have heard lots of stories of impellers being ruined by sand that was constantly floating in the water. The main reason I switched to bare-bottom was that it is much easier to tell when the tank is dirty and I was concerned the choking issue. The fish in one of my tanks are too small still to actually fit the gravel in their mouths, but the others are quite large and often suck up 2-3 pieces at a time. I figured better safe than sorry. What I did was get a few candle holders and small vases and put handfuls of gravel in there to hold plants and to avoid crashing the cycle by removing a ton of gravel all at once. This has worked great for the plants but I have found that instead of being sucked up by the filter, the waste gets trapped in the vases, and I mean a ton of waste. Imagine all the muck you take out with the siphon every week being restricted to one or two handfuls of gravel. I also found that I was pretty nervous about knocking around heavy glass vases in the tank. Both lifting them out for cleaning and lowering them back posed a particular threat of cracks in the tank if one of them dropped. They aren't that heavy empty but filled with gravel is another story. I also considered filling them with river rock instead, but the issue of trapped waste and possible tank damage remained. I really love about the sand how easy it is for the filter to suck up the junk in the tank and I also love letting the fish forage through the substrate, really the only problem is the filter intake sucking it up. After reading some great experiences with Tahitian moon sand I went ahead and ordered some this morning. This allows me to anchor the plants easily, avoid possible cracks from dropped vases, and reduces the amount of waste and food falling in between gaps in large gravel. Also, the moon sand is just large enough to fall back down when it gets kicked up instead of floating around and getting sucked up by the filter. All in all I think it is the best compromise. If you do decide to go ahead and do bare-bottom (which I do believe is preferable to large gravel, though maybe not preferable to large sand) you could use vases but be very careful that the fish won't tip them over and that you don't drop them during water maintenance. If you are interested in trying the moon sand check Foster and Smith. Right now they have a sale on 20 lb bags of substrate for only 15 bucks. Also make sure to get the Instant Ocean type and not Supernaturals. Instant Ocean comes with water and good bacteria included in the bag and can be added in immediately without the hours of rinsing that the dry sand requires. To ensure that no anaerobic pockets of bacteria form simply move it all around with your hand during water changes to keep any area from sitting stagnant for too long. Also less depth can help guard against pockets forming, so go with about 1/2'' or just enough to cover the bottom and secure the plants.
  17. I have just begun leak testing the new 55 gallon tank and I wanted to get some advice about how fast to fill it up and how long to let it sit. I read on a different site to fill the tank 1/4 of the way each 24 hours to watch for leaks, but it seems like a leak at the bottom would be noticeable in less than 24 hours. It also seems like if the bottom 1/4 doesn't leak the water pressure on the rest of the tank will be less and less as it gets fuller. What I mean is the bottom quarter has to withstand the full weight of the water, the second lowest quarter only has to withstand 75% of the water pressure, and so on, with the top 1/4 only having 25% of the weight on it. Is this correct or is my thinking wrong? The reasoning I read behind filling it little by little is a crack in it would be more likely to only leak and not burst with less water pressure. Does it seem reasonable that if the lowest portion with the most stress on it isn't leaking at all I could up it to 50% and then do the final 50% all at once, or would that still be risky? The bottom 1/4 was filled over 12 hours ago and I see no signs of water around the base or on the wood stand. The sealant looks good still, so should I just fill it up the rest of the way and let it sit full for a couple days on continue 1/4 at a time? Last night I had a dream that I woke up to find the thing empty and a crack in the bottom. I don't think I have ever been so relieved in my life as when I woke up this morning to find it as full as I left it lol. The other question I had was about cleaning. I know the various cleaning methods, but this tank has blue silicone. It dawned on me yesterday that if the silicone is blue the tank has probably been treated for ich at some point in the past, thus staining the sealant. This could have been years ago or a week ago. The tank was at a thrift store so I have no way to get a history on it. My concern is that if the ich outbreak was within the past couple months, like if the outbreak killed all their fish and caused them to give up on it and donate the tank, there could still be parasites living dormant in it. It was empty when I bought it, but again, I don't know if it was empty for weeks or days, or even hours. Right now it is out on the patio getting leak tested. My mom suggested keeping it outside for a few days to elevate the temperature (it has been over 100 lately) but it has been cooling off at night and the tank isn't in direct sunlight. Even still, I am not sure how long it would need to be out there in the heat empty to be safe. Any suggestions would be great. I live in a small town and I don't think anywhere around here sells PP, but I am terrified of using bleach. The only things from it I will be using are the tank itself and the hood. I will be moving my own gravel, plants, and filters over so I don't need to sterilize anything small like that. Also, if I do need to bleach it to be sure it is clean, would I want to fill the whole thing and add 5.5 gallons of bleach, or fill it like 25% and swish the bleach solution around? In other words, does the bleach just need to wash over surfaces or actually sit in contact with them for a while to sanitize? Thank so much as always, you guys are a life-saver!
  18. This is my little red-cap oranda, Apollo. ^_^
  19. Thanks guys! Very helpful input. I just got back from the store a minute ago and I think I have a pretty solid plan now. I got some large river rocks in black for one tank and natural color for the other. I also picked up various clear glass vases and candle holders that I am planning on using as "planters" for the artificial plants. I figure this way I get the gravel off the bottom without actually having to remove it. I may also hang a bag of media so that the bacteria can get knocked off. Perhaps I will rotate media from bottom, to vase, to bag, and finally remove it about a handful or two at a time. I decided because of the risk of choking I am going to take the natural gravel out of the moor tank as well. In regards to the powder, there is no coral or anything like that in the tank. The only substrate/decor in there that isn't glass or plastic is the gravel so I am sure that is what it is. It is filled with a powdery white substance and it looks like the blue coating/sealant is breaking down releasing the powder into the tank. Fins crossed that this will work as planned, but I have my ammonia test kit at the ready just in case. I will post pics when it is all finished! ^_^
  20. Sounds like the is settling in wonderfully, and it is great that you are a good enough betta parent to make sure you have all the info! ^_^ I have been so amazed by what charming fish they are. It does take a while to get used to them though. For the first week every time I saw Claude gulp air my first thought was "Oh no! Ammonia!" and I would have to calm myself down and remember he is a betta lol. I love about goldies how goofy and playful they are, which is one reason I never looked into other fish. That puppy personality just isn't common in anything but goldies from what I have seen. It is just so cool having the contrast of the bettas though. I have actually caught Claude and Axol watching me when I wake up in the morning. Their tank is only a couple feet from my bed. Claude also has the cutest habit of swimming around his tank and every few inches stopping dead in his tracks to stare down a piece of gravel or a plant. I guess I am just so used to the goldies that nibble everything they are interested in, it is so weird to see him just looking intently and then swimming off. My poor husband, for the first few days after I noticed Claude doing that I was elbowing him every ten minutes "Look he is doing it again, isn't he cute!".
  21. As I was siphoning the goldfish tank about a month ago I noticed a strange piece of something white in the tank. When I picked it up I realized that it was a half empty shell of a piece of gravel. The substrate in this tank is dark blue painted gravel, just the cheap stuff. I figured at the time that it must have been a fluke, just a defective piece or something, but I have been finding more and more of these blue empty shells and white particles in the substrate since. When I was cleaning the tank on Tuesday there was so much white junk tumbling around the filter that I could hardly tell if the waste and food was gone from the gravel. The white junk doesn't come up in the siphon, it is almost like ground up chalk with little bits and an almost baking powder consistency of dust. I would hope anything they used to make this stuff is safe for the fish, but I just don't trust W-mart to sell anything high quality and I am concerned about leaving it in there. Has anyone ever had this happen and would you agree that the best move is to replace it? If replacing it is the safest option (I am guessing that it is) what would be the best replacement. I know lots of people use bare-bottom tanks. Does this reduce the amount of BB in the tank and do the fish seem to miss rooting through the gravel? I had considered using a few bags of medium sized river rock, but I am afraid they would be bored without the gravel. I also had considered the Tahitian moon sand that everyone has been talking about, but I read a few people on here express concerns that the sand is too abrasive and can damage the fish's gills. I also read comments by people who use it and have had no trouble. In the end, it is much more expensive so I will probably reserve that for the corydora tank. Another option would be to get round natural gravel rather than painted, as this seems to be made of actual rocks. This is what I have in all the other tanks. If I do have to replace the gravel I want to make sure I use the opportunity to make any changes (like partial bare-bottom) at the same time. I have always liked the bare-bottom tanks aesthetically but I want to come as close to a natural environment as possible. I plan to use netting to make two media bags of the old gravel and hang them so that the cycle survives the swap. What would you suggest for substrate and why?
  22. Hi Viking! Rupert is beautiful. ^_^ I am also new to bettas, having had only experience with goldies in the past, but after about a month I am finally starting to get comfortable with what is normal behavior. As far as what is "normal", it really seems to depend on the fish, but any healthy happy betta should be fairly active for the majority of the day. I used to think that bettas just floated at the surface of the water all day and rarely swam. Little did I know the bettas I was looking at (all in vases) were just miserable and probably ill. You will be amazed how interactive and intelligent these guys are, and will probably get hooked on them. I currently have three bettas, two in their own filtered 10 gallon tanks and one in a filtered five gallon. The two veil tails are very active and really enjoy "surfing" back and forth along the glass edges of their tanks. My halfmoon is nowhere near as fast (maybe because of the large fins) but is still explores very consistently. All of them come to the front of the tank when they see me, but your little guy may take a few days to associate you with treats. From what I can tell, the sort of behavior you want is mainly curiosity and a moderate to high activity level. Bettas are very inquisitive little fish. They enjoy investigating new decorations, so to help with boredom change up your decorations' placement once every 1-2 weeks. Some keepers even put different object outside the tank for their fish to see. My half-moon takes frequent breaks during which he will rest on the bottom of the tank, in a plant, or on his heater's suction cups, but he never stays for long. After 1-2 minutes he goes back to patrolling the tank. From what I can tell this is what is normal for him. Claude, on the other hand, does not usually rest during the day. Axol does, but not with as much regularity as Ryuu. Just observe your little guy for a week or so and see what sort of activity level is normal for him, any diversion from that is cause for investigation. Most of the health warning signs I can think of with bettas are very similar to those you would find in goldfish. If he is bottom sitting, or staying at the surface of the water for too long, or if he moves to swim when you come by but immediately sinks back down, there may be something going on. Like I mentioned before, bettas are naturally very curious, so if he ever appears to lack interest in his surroundings I would consider that a warning sign. Of course, he may be less active until he settles in. Since bettas are labyrinth fish, meaning they are able to breath air directly as well as through their gills, you will occasionally see them swim to the top and gulp air. This is perfectly normal for a betta and does not indicate a water problem, however I would be concerned if he were doing it excessively (like every 5-10 seconds). If he does ever seem overly active/agitated, try unplugging your filter for a few minutes and see if his behavior changes. If you find that he is more calm and comfortable without the filter, you can use a clean soda bottle to make a great (and free!) baffle. I have these on all of mine just to ensure that there is as little current as possible. Keep in mind that some bettas actually seem to enjoy currents and will swim into them on purpose. If you notice your fish doing this, go ahead and play with the current strength a bit. It can be great exercise for them as long as they are not knocked around in other areas of the tank. Another thing some suggest is to exercise them by allowing them to flare for five minutes a day. This can be accomplished by turning on the hood light for some fish, others seem not to care about their reflection in the tank glass. You can use a mirror to get them to flare, but be careful because excessive flaring can lead to blown fins and excess stress. If you do see his flaring at his reflection in the tank when the light is on and it continues for more than 5-10 minutes, consider turning off the light or putting up a background to prevent him from seeing himself in the glass. Another sign of illness or stress is pinched fins. For bettas, fin clamping doesn't so much look like the fish holding his fins to his body as pinching the ends of them tight. Their fins go from looking draped like loose fabric, to looking like a sword blade. Stress lines are perhaps the one thing bettas get that goldies don't. When bettas are stressed, their color will sometimes fade and dark stripes will appear on their body. I saw a little female at the store recently that had just been chased by a male (males and females should not be housed together) and she had the darkest lines on her body. She was a pale beige with black stripes. Not two minutes after the male returned to his side of the tank she was blue, not a line on her. Stress lines can appear and disappear very quickly! Unhealthy bettas will not usually flare, so if your little guy is flaring at food and reflections, this is a good sign. However, not all bettas flare and it doesn't always indicate a problem. They all have their own personalities and some are much more aggressive than others. If your little guy doesn't like to flare, and there appears to be nothing else wrong, he is probably just more peaceful. Once again, it will probably take a little while before he starts flaring in his new tank because he will need to establish it as his territory. Blowing bubble nests is another thing bettas do. I have heard of sick bettas doing this and healthy bettas not doing it, so don't worry too much whether he does or doesn't. Do know that if you ever notice a bubble foam at the top of the water, usually in a corner or around an object, it is nothing to worry about. Bettas are known to bite their own fins, so if you do ever notice fin damage be sure to upload some images for help diagnosing. It is easy when you are used to goldies to see fin damage and immediately assume fin rot. With bettas, it is wise to hold off on medication until you are sure there is something else causing it. Fin nipping can result from stress, boredom, and even just habit. Added decorations and stable water quality/temperature are the best ways to prevent fin nipping. Often the only treatment needed for nipped fins is salt and clean water to prevent secondary infections. Last but not least, know that bettas sometimes get a parasite called velvet, which looks like a velvety layer of gold dust all over the fish's body. This is easiest to see by shining a flashlight on the fish in the dark. Consider keeping one on hand just in case he ever begins to act sick but has no visible symptoms. It is nice to be able to quickly rule at least that one out. Good luck with him, they are awesome fish!
  23. Thanks! Looking around for a U.S. site now.
  24. Hmm I am not seeing the medication you suggested at this site I am using. http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/fish-supplies/fish-medication/fish-parasite-treatment/ps/c/3578/4615/4620 Is there another name for it or another brand?
  25. Thanks everyone! I couldn't believe how lucky I was to find him. Good thing I don't go to that store often. They get much more specialty bettas and I doubt I could resist any of them. I am just so glad he is calming down and eating well now. I finally feel like he is going to do alright. ^_^
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