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Everything posted by dnalex

  1. Why are you using RO water? I think he means the liquid product RO?http://www.kentmarine.com/products/kent-liquid-ro-right.htm Thanks, Mikey, for trying to clarify for me, but my question is about the RO water itself and wanting to know if that's what the OP is doing. So let me ask my question again, with more words. I would like to know if you are using R/O water for your goldfish tank(s), and if so, why? If you are simply trying to make your water as hard as possible, then I believe there are better ways to do so. When you are saying hard water, are you talking about General hardness, or carbonate hardness, or both? Thanks.
  2. I think that for non-large goldfish, using 2 10-gallon tanks ("buckets") should be good, since it halve the amount of meds you need to use. It is true that when you have very large fish, larger containers may be called for. The huge advantage to the bucket-to-bucket (tank-to-tank) method is that you can age the water of the transfer well in advance of transferring the fish. I usually do this the day before, and let the water sit for 24 hours (with airstone + filter with uncycled media or no media).
  3. I used the Ultra-Clear. It worked well in terms of giving me really crystal clear water. Then I got lazy.
  4. Hi Jesper, As Helen said, those meds are fine. I actually decided a while back that while Metro-Meds/Medi-Gold are certainly convenient, there are equally, if not more, effective methods of treatment. In addition, I actually think that for meds that are readily absorbed from the water, this is the better way to go. Years ago, forum members had this concern that they must do everything they can to have a cycled tank during treatment of sick fish, and this somewhat irrational fear led to the insistence that medicated foods are better, in part because many meds will destroy the biological filter when administered in the water. Medicated foods sometimes are better, or even necessary. But, there is no absolute requirement for medicated foods. However, starting with when Sharon and a few others joined the forum, they made very persuasive arguments that you don't actually need a cycled tank during treatment of sick fish. What you DO need to do is make sure that the treatment tank is free of ammonia, nitrites, and to some extent, nitrates. This may be accomplished by doing daily water changes, or, even better, by doing the bucket-to-bucket method daily. If you don't have to worry about keeping a cycled QT tank, and if you are keeping a strict watch on your water parameters, there is now no particular reason why adding meds to the water is unacceptable. So, it was fantastic that Rick provided us with some amazing choices for fish treatments for so many years. However, while we may miss these convenient choices, we are not left at all defenseless. Don't panic.
  5. This is a great list, Chelsea! Please note that many of the symptoms shown are exactly the same as if the fish were having a flukes problem. The difference is that these problems should normally disappear within days after treatment. If they don't, the fish may have a secondary infection, or an altogether different problem that cannot be solved the prazi treatment.
  6. That's the thing with dropsy. There seems to be two different kinds. One is slow-progressing, and we can treat that. The other type is faster-progressing, and it is extremely tough (if even possible) to treat.
  7. Did you mean this or is it a typo? It is a typo, but in this case, a harmless one. The typical Epsom treatment for many places is actually 1 teaspoon per gallon. For largely historical reasons, this forum has stuck with 1/4 teaspoons per 10 gallons. We have not seen it necessary to raise the amount, but at the same time, the larger amount in no way is toxic. I'm so sorry that the fish passed, Lis, but please don't think it was the Epsom that exacerbated the condition.
  8. I'm sorry I didn't follow the entire discussions before hand, but just wanted to say a couple of things, in case they have not been discovered: 1. Ingested praziquantel (or any dewormer for that matter) will not affect the external parasites you want to treat. If you want to treat body flukes, you must treat the water. If you want to get rid of internal worms, feed. 2. Although I can't think of cases where there are actual documentation of praziquantel resistance, it's possible. It's also possible that you just need to do a salt dip to strip the slime coat first. Fenbendazole and flubendazole are both equally good and effective alternatives to praziquantel, and can be obtained easily. Good luck!
  9. Aubs, could you try to take some pics, please? Thanks!
  10. Hello... This is a general reminder to everyone. Unless you are: 1. Admin 2. Moderators and helpers 3. Senior and experienced members (you will have had conversations with the mod team about helping) Please do not offer diagnosis and treatment suggestions. It's really important that this is followed, because we want to make sure that we are approaching this in a way that is consistent with the philosophies of this forum, AND that it is being handled properly. Thanks for your attention.
  11. I'm so sorry. The situation does look very dire. In the event that you need to euthanize him, clove is a best option. We certainly can try to continue to help, but once he reaches this stage, we have to ensure that the water is free of all toxins, that he's not going to be harmed by being on his side on the tank, etc.
  12. Hello, I'm sorry that your fish is unwell. We'd really like to see some kinds of visuals if at all possible, please. Could you hold her and take pics, or alternately, record a video. There are a number of treatment options, as well as not treating, depending on the looks of things. I would rather not subject a fish to meds if that can be helped. Thanks.
  13. I'd like for him to get in on the metro ASAP, if possible. If that means using General Cure for the first few days, it's fine. You can use a filter to keep a current going, but I always advocate daily water changes in addition to everything else.
  14. Hi Allie, You've summoned me! :rofl I'm sorry Wilbur is having some issues, and hopefully we can help him, and quickly. I am going to want to read your posts again before coming up with a more comprehensive plan, but I do want to address a couple of points really quickly. 1. The possible pineconing. I admit that I have looked as closely, but I do trust your judgment. So, whatever we do, we need to take this into consideration. 2. Skinniness...one of the things that strikes me is that he seems to be on the skinny side. Has he gained or lost weight since the time he's been with you? How are the others doing in terms of weight? Does Wilbur eat less? What I am trying to get at is that it's possible that he may be harboring some internal parasites. That, along with the pineconing, allows me to be very comfortable in suggestion metronidazole as part of the treatment. Let's get the powder to add to the water, since I am unsure that he will get a full dose by eating. I may want to add another antibiotic as part of the water treatment, both to treat the tail issue, as get as a general treatment, but I would like to sit on that for a tad. However, if you can, I would like to start the metronidazole as soon as possible. I'd like to use 200 mg metro per 10 gallons, please.
  15. Could you post a video if you get a chance? I'd like to recommend stopping the MMs at 14 days, but it would be good to take a look first.
  16. Great job! I'm glad everything worked out!
  17. I don't recommend that QT method, simply because I don't know enough about these specific fish. People are always welcome to dose their fish with whatever meds they like, but as always, it's a judgment call as to what is considered necessary versus going too far. A fish from reputable sources may require nothing other than observation. Others still need some treatment, like prazi, and yet some others will need a more aggressive approach. For example, fish from ECR has already been treated for a number of things before coming to the buyer, so it makes no sense to subject these fish to more harsh chemicals. So, the answer is that it really depends, and we need to know more before we make a recommendation.
  18. Python is the best, follow by Aqueon. I have two Aqueon changers, and love them!
  19. It looks like this has been tried by a number people, and they seem to love it! Now I know what to do with the koi clay I have!
  20. Hi Kayla, Yes, 7 days. The meds definitely can make a fish unhappy, just as some meds can make us feel not so good. I think that a 7 day course is fine, although if you are concerned, it's OK if you want to stop the TriSulfa after tomorrow.
  21. I think in general it is preferred by the breeders, for exactly the same reason. Whether that is true or not, I don't know.
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