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dnalex

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Everything posted by dnalex

  1. Hello, Please consult the tables in this thread to figure the correct amount of baking soda to add at every water change http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/topic/110296-stabilizing-your-tank-ph-with-sodium-bicarbonate-baking-soda/ I would like to raise the kH by about 80-100 ppm in each tank. Essentially, we want to get the kH to about 7-9 drops. Thanks
  2. Let's feed them both Metro-Meds. Please borrow the kitchen scale. I'm much more comfortable with not having to guess their weights, since I am always wrong guessing. White spots on wens, especially during fall and winter, are common. It's only when you see holes or redness that it may become a concern.
  3. I believe that protrusion is the fish's vent, which, because it's an outie, marks the fish as a female ranchu. Not seeing a fish poop may actually be a good thing, because it may mean that you: 1) are not overfeeding, and 2) your filters are doing their job. It could possibly mean that she is constipated, but you would see this reflected in her activity level and her appetite. How are those things?
  4. Will you see if you can locate some metronidazole powder ASAP? I think I want to do a bit more, but this first ingredient should be started as soon as we possibly can.
  5. Actually, If you don't mind, just post here. We are now aware of the separate problems, and so it will be fine!
  6. Let's put them both in the main tank and take a video of both, please. Thanks!
  7. Do you think you can try to weigh him? I would really hate to treat the other non-sick fish, but we may not have a choice. How big is your QT? May we see a video?
  8. I'm sorry to say, but once she's flipped over like that, it may be permanent. You can try to give her course of Metronidazole containing foods, but that's about all I can think of.
  9. Let me try to present it this way, to see if it makes sense: 1. Firstly, you are right in that it's the mass of the fish (and how much you feed) that determines the waste output, and hence the amount of filtration that is needed. 2. We actually make filtration/filter recommendations based on the (max) number of adult fish that should be in a tank. So, in a 40 gallon tank, the max that you should really have in that tank is 2 adult goldfish, and for that sort of estimated fish mass, filtration from HOBs totaling up to 400 gph should be able to handle the bioload with ease. By the same reasoning, you will want 800 gph at least for the 80 gallon tank, and that level of filtration should be sufficient for 4 adult fish. Can you have less filtration in the 80 if you only have 2 fish or smaller fish? Probably, but at least for me, when I design something, I design it for max potential. 3. The gph is just a stand in for how big the HOB will be, and consequently how much media will be there. So, it's by far not a perfect measure, but over the course of years, we know that this number works, and works well, in the sense that once the cycle is established, it is quite stable. Will less filtration work? Possibly. Do you need more? No. Can you have more? Certainly. On my tanks, I have a combo of canisters and HOBs that add up to about 15-17x gph.
  10. Perfect. Please update as often as you like. Best wishes.
  11. We have not actually ruled out anything. It may still be parasitic, but I prefer to approach this methodically instead of just trying everything at once. We have enough at this low-caliber analysis to suspect that it might be bacterial, so let's deal with that first. We should have a good idea in the coming week, and will revise plans as needed.
  12. Hi Johnny, How are you? I don't know that it's really considered a growth spurt, but tele eyes do continue to grow throughout a goldfish's lifetime. Sometimes they also deflate. It's not unusual for the eyes to become uneven.
  13. Just metro-meds. I will leave others to help with the ammonia issue.
  14. Actually, if you have Metro-Meds, let's try that for now. We want to feed 1% of the fish's bodyweight daily, but divide that amount to 3-5 times a day. Treat only the sick fish.
  15. What sort of antibiotics have you tried? Is it only furan? While furan is a very good choice antibiotics in a number of cases, it's not particularly good for absorption into the tissues and are better for external things only. My recommendation is to do metronidazole + oxolinic acid or metronidazole + kanaplex. Better yet, if you can do metronidazole in the water + Medi-Koi as feed, we will have all the bases covered.
  16. As an aside (but may be related), I can't imagine having such a huge crown to be good for the fish.
  17. Raise what another 90-100 ppm? The kH? Let's hold off. 8 drops is fine for now. I would like the Gh at 8 drops as well. Once the fish are fine, we will work on possibly going higher. As for making meds recommendations, don't ask for clearance. The rule of thumb is don't do it, unless you've been asked to help out. If you think you have a really good idea, please use the report button and add your input there. The mod team will get back to you on it. Thanks.
  18. For the kH test, if you're using the API drops, you're looking for the amount of drops it takes to turn the water from blue to yellow. So we want the water to stay blue for 8 or more drops, then turn yellow somewhere between the 9th and 11th drop. I hope I'm explaining alright... PS I'm not a moderator, and I hope they will me if I get anything wrong...I just wanted you to know why baking soda was advised. Sorry, I was so excited to see blue, lol. it take 6 drops to turn yellow. Should I add another teaspoon or so?i would add 1/4 of a teaspoon. It's the ten gallon, right? Just did another water change and add 1 tsp and 1/4 tsp. 1 drop blue; 8 drops yellow for Kh!!! getting there! ph 7.6, highrange is 8.0 This is looking much better, although I think we need to work on upping the gH as well.
  19. Hi Glenn, Thank you for your vote of confidence. Since the entire mod team works as a team, anyone of us will be exactly the same as any other. In the future, please don't point out specific people, it puts the person on the spot, and seriously undermines everyone else who have put in valuable volunteer work to help out. Also, just FYI, D&D threads are strictly moderated, and most members are asked not to participate in the giving of med suggestions unless cleared by the mod team. Thanks for your understanding and future compliance. Alex
  20. There are actually two different, but intertwined questions on this topic: 1) How long can goldfish go without food? 2) How long should goldfish go without food?
  21. Chelsea, can you give me the source of this information? I know we usually say that goldfish will do fine for a week to 10 days without food, but I don't know where that information comes from either. I'm not Chelsea, but I will take the liberty of answering as well. Source 1: Johnson & Hess's Fancy Goldfish. There, the time limit is 5-7 days. Source 2: Bristol Aquarists say up to two weeks. http://www.bristol-aquarists.org.uk/goldfish/info/keeping-fs.htm I think that for sure the limits can be stretched up to two weeks (or more), but there is a cost of stress and associated problems. Other factors that also come into play for specific tanks will include the available of other things (algae) for fish to much on, the temperature of the water, and how much you've overfed in the past. How old/big the fish are may be a factor as well, among other things. I will say that if it were me, I would try to get someone(s) to feed 1-2 times during the 2 weeks I am away, but if I can't, I can't.
  22. This is another one of these long-suffering urban myths that unfortunately won't die a quick death. The land version of this is birds and uncooked rice http://urbanlegends.about.com/od/birds/a/wedding_rice.htm
  23. Check your water parameters please, including pH. What is it normally? What is tap pH now?
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