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yukoandk

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    enough yet not enough

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  1. If they have not been malnourished thus far, which doesn't sound like the case, I'd fast them for a few days and just let them recover. Water changes, raising the temp to mid-high 70's if possible, and adding salt at 3ppm (one table spoon per gallon) may help in recovery. In the future, they will benefit from larger weekly water changes by avoiding build up of toxins. Hope they feel better soon.
  2. Is your tank cycled? Is the water well circulated and oxygenated? Do you do regular water changes? Do read up on some fish keeping basics including the nitrogen cycle (example here: http://www.kokosgoldfish.com/cycle.html) if you haven't already. If it's a new tank, it's very likely the ammonia and/or nitrite is present as enesta mentioned. Knowing your water parameters--ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH are the few basics--will help you understand what maybe going on in your tank and what may need to be done. For the time being, try some partial water changes (de-chlorinated, temperature matched) to give your goldfish clean, fresh water.
  3. And this is the tank you are thinking about adding a clayfish and guppies into? I'm guessing clayfish can get pretty big and am not all that familier with guppies, so other's may come up with better help, but start with low bioload and see if the filteration is sufficient. Cheers!
  4. P.S. Hi, I just saw your last post. You do need daily water changes until your tank is cycled, 30%-40% depending on ammonia/nitrite level. Your first goal is to cycle and stabilize the tank. (And it is easier to accomplish this with a bigger tank.) If I remember right, AmQuel Plus will detoxify ammonia/nitrite/nitrate for 24 hours (please check the bottle for this) to keep your fish safe until the following day's water change. And again, do not use pH Up--in soft water like ours, it's a recipe for a disaster. I wouldn't worry about adding extra stuff in your filter. You just need some media for the beneficial bacteria such as media rocks/cylinders (came with the filter?) or sponge/floss material, and add some crushed coral in a mesh bag. As for food/poop concerns, first thing I would do is to stop feeding. Digesting food is such an ordeal for many fancy goldfish that it can actually add more stress on them. Given they're not malnourished thus far, they'll do better at dealing with the current unstable environment without all the tummy troubles.
  5. The water in Washington is very soft. For your pH concerns, try to find some crushed coral, a cupful or so will be enough, and don't use pH Up. I agree with Lupin you're going to have a tough time try to keep your two fish in a 10 gal. I take the 10 gal has not finished the cycle? Daily water change with AmQuel Plus is a must.
  6. I'd say yes. If you "split" the air output into two, the air coming out of each stone will be something like half and half. These filters work by circulating the water with air bubbles, by air bubbles lifting the water upward as they rise to the top, so less air bubble = less lifting of water. Whether your air powered internal filter still has enough filtration or not will depend on what the tank needs. What do you have in the tank?
  7. "Are goldfish such genetic mutants that their shape/size/deformities have become incompatible with life?" Hi all, That's exactly what they are. They are created purely out of human ego. I think about this a lot myself--it is actually inhumane. Don't get me wrong, I love goldfish and adore my goldfish. I try to take good care of my goldfish and keep learning how better to care for them. And I wonder, "who's happier? My goldfish or the carps running wild in muddy streams of different lands?" And that's nothing other than my ego speaking...? RanchuDressing, where will I find your blog at? Thank you for bringing up the interesting subject. I hope Mango is ok.
  8. Hi, yea, I'm in Seattle;) I mix Onyx Sand (http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/OnyxSand.html) in my substrate, small handful of crushed coral in the filter, usually have a Wonder Shell in the tank, and use a mix of Alkaline Buffer and Acid Buffer with water change. As far as the buffers go, I'm settled with a formula that works for me, but I'm always contemplating whether I want to drop them... edit: But the trick with buffers is that you mix up and down buffers to achieve appropriate and stable pH.
  9. The ebay item you found will work fine. Aquarium shops who have a decent salt water department should have it, I would think. I don't think you'll see a drastic change in GH/KH readings by using crushed coral, but it will help keep the pH from dropping. Good luck!
  10. Here is my guess on the plants, but don't quote me;) Plant 1: A type of Myrio, sometimes called foxtails Plant 2: Diandra Plant 3: Giant Sagittaria The plants and tank look great! And what a cute goldfish!
  11. First you will want to decide if you want your tank to be a "planted tank." By this I mean plants planted in some type of gravel bottom. This will involve some work and investment initially to get the plants established. If you like to keep a bare bottom, you can use small pots with some type of gravel for your plants as Lupin suggests. Either way I agree with Hidr that you should check out what type of bulbs you got. You do not want too intense of a light that causes algae problems. Congrats on the new tank--does it have an overflow and a sump? One of my tanks has the sump system and I love it!
  12. It is generally said that you should have at least 5ppm of nitrate up to 15ppm in a planted tank. Plants do help with nitrate, but with goldfish being such huge waste (ammonia) producers, unless your bio load is very low, nitrate will keep building up. Plants utilize ammonia more readily than nitrate, but I think plants are still useful in a goldfish tank by reducing ammonia level before it has the chance to turn into nitrate. In a nutshell, I don't think you have to worry about plants not getting enough nutrients in a typical goldfish tank. I'd be interested to hear more about this nitrate filter--keep us posted on your progress. Cheers!
  13. The general procedure for preparing driftwood for aquariums is to A) soak, and B) use hot water. Depending on type of driftwood you get, it often needs soaking so it sinks. And soaking helps get the initial tanning and impurities out as devilduck described. How long will depend on the piece you get. Hot water helps disinfect the piece, some boil it in a big pot, others pour hot water over it, and also speeds up the soaking process. Small amount of tanning will continue to leach out in your tank which may or maynot be noticeable, and yes, it has a potential to lower your pH as WalpigrsNM mentioned. I'd recommend you find out if you have hard or soft water in your area. If your water is harder with good readings of general and carbonate hardness (GH/KH, carbonate hardness is also referred to as buffering capacity) you will be fine with driftwood, and it will even be beneficial in keeping the water chemistry balanced. But if you like to use driftwood in soft water, it will require a bit more of careful planning, which may include having to add other items to counteract the acidifying effects of driftwood. Hope this helps!
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