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Everything posted by j0shua

  1. I had to clean out my 2213 for the first time the other day, so I went out and bought an Eheim universal cleaning brush: It's a little brush on a 1.6m flexible line, and it goes through the 12mm hoses easily. Cleaned out everything in there nicely. It does have problems with the sharp 180 degree inlet pipe (as in, it simply does not go through, and gets nicely stuck) but for everything else, it's excellent. I reckon a 2 month interval between hose cleans would be ideal (I had three months on mine), run the hose through with the brush twice, once in each direction, and rinse out with tank/clean water. That way when you fire the canister up, it won't dump out a bunch of biofilm. Even so, I ran the first 10 minutes of the cleaned out system without the spray bar in place, and with a net over the outlet pipe to pick up any junk that was coming out, while I gave the can a few shakes to get rid of the air pockets. http://www.eheim.com/base/eheim/inhalte/index18ef.html?key=liniendetail_27678_ehen
  2. Maybe you can have the inlet enter via the front of the drawer so as to not obstruct the opening of the drawer. Spreading the water over a greater area of the floss increases efficiency as well as service intervals so there's less drawer opening. Still, good work. It's pretty neat to see this in operation.
  3. Haha awesome work Jeff, that's a very effective setup for 50 bucks. There's this old aunty's shop near my office that sells all these plastic things (mop buckets, tong sampah, food covers, etc) and they have the 3 or 4 tier cabinets, and I was passing by the other day after checking out a LFS with open sumps, and the first thing I thought of was that it would make a really awesome wet/dry filter! It's kinda nice to see it in execution like this haha. Super easy to clean with the drawers also. One suggestion: a spray bar at the top of the trickle tower to evenly distribute water on the filter floss, that way you don't end up with one dirty patch surrounded by white floss. A pvc pipe with holes drilled along it should do the trick. But it does look like you have an attachment on the top there... is that a shower head?
  4. I paid a visit to an aquarium builder about a month ago, I was watching them remove silicon. They were simply using small discarded pieces of non-beveled aquarium glass, and using the edge to scrape the silicon off. Because the edge is fairly thick, it'll remove nearly, if not, all the silicon in one go. Ps. use gloves. Thick gloves!
  5. I would say go for the Ehfisubstrat Pro, the round balls with dimples in them mean more surface area for biobugs to cling on to, and they don't really trap much air. I have bio-rings like the Fluval Biomax chucked in haphazardly in my Eheim, and I spent a good half hour last night rocking out the trapped air from the canister. Bio-rings do work, but I figure the small balls are easier to maintain. Just use whatever media you're comfortable with, you don't have to stick to any brand. Now I have to recommend getting some silicon based grease for the o-rings if these are used canisters, I've had an air leak in mine that led to some pretty loud rattling. It's basically silicon based plumber's grease which is non-toxic (but pretty thick and sticky) which you can find in the plumbing section of most hardware stores. They're used for greasing o-rings for all sorts of piping work anyways, including household water which you end up drinking so it has to be harmless. Smear a tiny bit on, cover the o-ring evenly, then wipe off the clumps and you'll get a nicely greased o-ring which shouldn't let any air in, and it'll prolong the life of the ring, and the silicon won't damage it unlike petroleum based products (some ppl argue that petroleum based vaseline is fine as today's modern materials makes a very robust ring, but some say otherwise...).
  6. Hi stakos, Yes, Noodles is fine, although he is still gasping (and so is Dumpling). They are 6 days into their PraziPro treatment (third dose this morning), and I'm alternating between peas, NLS There A 2mm pellets and homemade gel food (fresh salmon, fresh shrimp, broccoli, peas, carrots, bell pepper, paprika, nori flakes, a Sera spirulina tab, crushed garlic/garlic capsule and an acidophilus capsule) and a 1 day fast/week. They're also in a 12 gallon QT tank at the moment, with the full 29g tank filtration (although the HOB is turned down) as I'm redoing the 29g's stand (and the 12g uses less prazi). Parameters are excellent, 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite and 5 Nitrate. They mainly gasp immediately after eating, for about 1/2 hr to an hour before settling down. I'm seeing floating poo from Dumpling, it's got air bubbles in it and there's not much material in there. Noodle's poo is regular, sinks, the colour of his food and with an occasional air bubble. About the gasping, I did some reading up on this site about the exact same thing: http://thegab.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=7300&start=0 They've been scratching their heads over this too. I'll keep them on the gel food for a week and see what happens. Thanks for checking up on them!
  7. I run an Aquaclear 50 on mine in conjunction with an Eheim 2213, I like the redundancy in terms of failure and cleaning. But yeah, on the other tank we had an Aquaclear 70 in a 22g and that was fine. Plenty of filtration, should happily deal with a 29g. Flow is quite strong and it can take a fair amount of media (I didn't install the carbon pack but instead put an equivalent amount of crushed coral/spare small Eheim substrate balls into a mesh bag instead). It is reasonably large, but it's pretty much silent if all the plastic parts are firmly in place.
  8. Moderators, can you please remove this topic or move it somewhere else, as Noodles has seemed to return to normal, although he's still gasping at the top. I panicked a bit last night when I saw him float up on his side and not breathe, I really thought he'd died. He didn't spit out what he ate, but if you say it's harmless then I guess he's ok. I think he was majorly spooked by the power outages, it was bright then dark then bright again and so on. The filter was dirty, but not overly dirty, which I guess is the benefit of running twin filters. I also do really suspect they both harbor some gill flukes and/or other parasites, they've never been through a proper prazi treatment, so given that it's been said that it's relatively harmless to do so, I'll put them through the regimen Tay has recommended. I'll do another WC tonight, but parameters seem to be very good at the moment. Thanks for your help, Koko folks, you guys are a constant source of reassurance and a wealth of knowledge.
  9. I have water sitting out for another WC soon. They were gasping at the surface prior to this. As they never went through an anti-parasitic course before, I figured I'd feed them some gel food with the Gel Tek Anti-Parasitic gel in it. With the aeration, I suspected gill flukes, as both were doing this. The original LFS tank they came from also had other fish gasping, and shortly after I got them, I saw that tank explode in ich. Soon after, my guys got ich too. Not too clean, that LFS. The gel food contains mashed peas and carrots, some pellets, garlic, spirulina tabs and the Gel Tek. Anyways, I have Prazi on the way, so once it arrives I'll put them through a full course as Tay has specified in the other thread about getting rid of flukes.
  10. Need to add that there's a 1" drop on the HOB giving surface action. The Eheim spray bar is facing the back wall pointed slightly up, causing some agitation also. I also have an Eheim 200 air pump feeding two 6" airstones, and there's a GEX aquarium fan blowing on the surface just above where one of the airstone bubbles hit the surface. There is a fair amount of surface action, and aeration is strong, so even at 27-28c I'm thinking it's okay. Tap water goes through a separate filter and is forcefully jetted out into 5 litre bottles that are left out for at least 6 hours.
  11. [*]Ammonia Level? 0 [*]Nitrite Level? 0 [*]Nitrate level? 10 [*]Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)? 7.6 [*]Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)? 7.6 [*]Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API Freshwater Master Test Kit, drops [*]Water temperature? 27.8 C [*]Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 29g, 3 months, cycled [*]What is the name and size of the filter(s)? AquaClear 50, Eheim 2213 [*]How often do you change the water and how much? Biweekly, 40% [*]How many fish in the tank and their size? 2 Orandas, 2" body length [*]What kind of water additives or conditioners? Nutrafin AquaPlus [*]What do you feed your fish and how often? Gel food, has a bit of metro and prazi in it, small amounts twice a day [*]Any new fish added to the tank? None [*]Any medications added to the tank? None [*]Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? No [*]Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Noodles is gasping at surface, swimming frantically. An hour ago, the house suffered a series of electricity trips attributed to a faulty air conditioner unit. In total, the power went off 6 times, and each time I turned the mains back on at the circuit breaker until I found the source of the trip. Initially I had suspected the wrong electrical device, hence the repeated trips. The AquaClear filter unfortunately backwashed gunk out each time the power died. I netted out most of the gunk, and immediately vacuumed the rest, and did a 40% water change with the water I had left to age earlier (along with the Aqua Plus and a 95% rated chlorine removal tap filter, I let it sit for a few hours). I also cleaned out the AquaClear housing completely, but swirled the media and sponge in tank water to maintain the bacteria colony. I also used a new and cleaned algae magnet to clear a bit of brown algae off the front of the tank to make netting the biogunk easier. I did not touch the Eheim. Noodles and Dumpling were both fine (apart from some surface gasping) before the power outage, but the lights going of repeatedly probably frightened them a bit. During the third outage, I saw Noodles zone in and eat a 3/4 inch long piece of floating biofilm that had come out of the filter, before I could net it. After the water change and when the power was regularised, I noticed Noodles gasp A LOT, as in his whole mouth was out of the water. He then slowed down and floated on his side, and I thought he died for a moment there. He then snapped out of it, and darted to the bottom very quickly. He swam around frantically then came to the top and started gasping again, and slowed down to do so. He's just hanging at the surface now gasping air, fins clamped, almost completely stationary, and occasionally makes a run down, opening his mouth very wide as he does so. He does flash on the bottom once in a while. After the water change, I turned off the lights, turned on the fan and UV steriliser, did a water test, and have been watching them since. Dumpling seems perfectly fine, he's moving around at his normal pace and not showing signs of distress. Could what Noodles ate have caused some gill irritation, or gotten stuck there? If he swam into the backwash as it happened, would that have harmed him? Would bacterial infection be a strong possibility? I've read a bit on hydrogen sulfide poisoning, and it appears to be caused by anaerobic bacterial action in the substrate getting loose, but could it also happen in an HOB filter (no smell detected, though)? Note: I have Prazi enroute, it's been about a week of waiting so far. I have suspected gill flukes were causing the initial gasping, these guys have never been put through an anti-parasite course until I started feeding them the slightly medicated gel food last week. This gel food contains the GelTek andi-parasitic gel, but I'm not completely 100% sure of the dosage, I think it's 1 tablespoon to 11 tablespoons of other ingredients so it's probably not very strong.
  12. Such great photos and a beautiful tank, Sakura!
  13. Thanks, guys. It was just as hard losing Pumpkin even though we both suspected she probably wouldn't recover. She fought really hard... at one point she was about to give up, but my girlfriend spoke to her and told her to fight, and Pumpkin did fight for another full week. We miss both their chubby faces very much. Thanks for all your help again. Ponyo & Pumpkin <3
  14. Wow Allie, the persistence of whatever is causing the dropsy/pop-eye is mind-boggling... Would repeated courses of medicated food and/or medication result in strains of resistant bacteria? Would UV sterilization be of any help if it's bacteria (I do understand that it's only helpful against water-borne bacteria, but that does eliminate one source)? I wish you and your awesomely resilient fish the best, get well soon!
  15. Pumpkin fought with so much strength and resilience. She always showed us her brave face, and she gave it her all. Even while she was fading this afternoon as her body started to shut down on her, she followed me to the side of the tank I was to watch me. We did all we could for her. We buried her next to Ponyo, with her favourite stone. Both of them in the span of a week, it's tough. We'll miss them both so much. Thank you all for your help.
  16. Freeze-dried stuff tends to trap air, or it doesn't absorb liquid as well, so it can lead to floatiness. Freeze-dried stuff can also harbour bacteria and some other nasties. Frozen stuff is slightly better, but it has to come from a reputable manufacturer. You can pick up Epsom salts from a pharmacy or drug store. There are benefits for humans, Epsom baths are good for skin and stuff. A box with more than you'd ever need costs about the equivalent of a pound where I am. As for the mysis, I use the Hikari stuff, which they say is triple sterilised and all, and it comes in a frozen pack which most fish shops have in a freezer box. It costs less than a pound where I am. Try biweekly or 10 day water changes first then, and see how they respond. A monthly change seems to be an awful long time. With 8 fish in a 20g, that's got potential for a lot of nitrate buildup. The difference in water you have to look out for is mainly the PH and temperature, but you also have to have your tap water tested for ammonia/nitrite/nitrate for trace amounts at your fish shop. Then there's GH and KH, General Hardness and Carbonate Hardness, which is how soft/hard your water is (if you're in London it should be pretty hard) and the alkalinity of water respectively. Goldfish can take decent amounts of both, but I'm not sure about danios. Do all the fish get sick with weekly changes, or just one set? And what kind of sickness do they have? Put it this way: you don't want to see symptoms of internal bacteria infection, because it'll be something nasty like pineconing or stuff like that. A good idea would be to incorporate garlic into their diet, as it helps prevent infection. It works up their appetite, too. Sometimes I stuff a small piece of steamed garlic into a pea to feed them. And it's natural and cheap. Active fish usually is a good sign.
  17. Update: Pumpkin is still hanging on, and she's still eating and moving around. She does look a bit worse, as she's covered with some black ammonia burn spots. Unfortunately that was our mistake a couple of days ago, the ammonia in her hospital tank did hit 0.25, but the chlorophyll there encouraged her to shed and replace her slime coat, so she was unprotected for a while and even that trace amount hurt her. We quickly moved her back into her original tank, which had been cleaned out and filled with temp and ph matched fresh water. This was about 2 days ago, so I guess the black we're seeing is her healing up. We did another chlorophyll bath today, and the redness around some of her scales very quickly subsided and she perked up noticably. We're giving her daily 25% water changes and twice daily water tests to ensure she's getting good water. Temperature is maintained at 29C. We have been having trouble feeding her the Gel-Tek metro, she got constipated a bit with the soaked pellets and refused to poo for a whole day. We were worried and gave her and Epsom pea, which solved the problem. She cannot detect the Gel Tek in the water, and the syringe is a painfully difficult way to administer it, as a fair amount gets dispersed in the water. My medi-food from Goldfish Utopia is likely a couple of weeks away, so we had to do something. I spent the better part of tonight, something like 4 hours, having to endure the stench of dissolved gelatin and preparing the following concoction: 1 packet Gelatin Mushed peas, carrots and a bit of garlic Crushed Medigold (Japanese version) pellets 1 crushed Sera Spirulina tablet A few drops of Sera Fishtamins Some pure garlic oil 1 tablespoon of Gel Tek Ultra Cure PX Some water It was a first-time attempt, and I'm glad to say the end result had the desired consistency and Pumpkin happily ate a couple of bite-sized tabs. The gel food ended up fairly firm, like jello, and retains its shape in the water. We mushed one up with our fingers, and it's easy to break down. I'm glad we got the ratio right: I ended up with 5 tablespoons of gelatin/warm water (waited for it to cool before mixing) to 3 tablespoons of concentrated veggie/dry ingredients, giving a cup of gel which spread about 1/8" over a small casserole lid (got the ratio off someone's post in the gel thread - thanks!). It's easier for her to have it bite sized, and it should be enough for about 10 days. Ultimately I'm happy we now have an effective way to administer the metro to her without having it disperse. The peas and garlic and spirulina are all bonuses, so hopefully this will help her recover. The only problem is that I think my sense of smell will never be the same again
  18. DrsFosterSmith's international shipping can amount to quite a bit if you're far away from the states. My order of about $30 incurred a $110 FedEx bill haha. I ordered from Goldfish Utopia instead, $20 with a $30 USPS fee. Back to topic, it appears that he's from the UK, hence the pence. And the fact that his location says "England" Also, I never knew fish can get allergic to bloodworms 0.o
  19. I was sent the above as a message, I didn't read the source and after googling it up, I'm not sure how safe that site is. The reason I ask is that my tank temperature usually sits at about 28-29 Celcius during the day and 27 Celcius at night. The first time Pumpkin started producing eggs, she got real big and we were very worried and when she did release them after much concern, they were all unfertilised. The second time, which was recently, she started pineconing and we're struggling to save her right now. Both times her partner Ponyo did not try to mate with her. My question is this: did the temperature prevent Ponyo from breeding with her? Or is the temperature preventing her from releasing her eggs this time round? Is there even a way to prevent her from further producing eggs in the future?
  20. Prazi is used as an anti-parasitic, and is effective in clearing out nasties from your fish's gills and digestive system. As a side note, my fish do a constipation wiggle, which is kinda like a butt shake, when they're trying to have a poo. Sakura's suggestion of a single grain of Epsom salt in an thawed cut-to-size pea (the frozen unsalted peas in supermarkets, a pack will last you a LONG time) is effective for constipation. I fed a constipated fish the Epsom pea last night, and a few hours later she had two massive poos. Similarly, mysis shrimp, like the frozen cubes sold by Hikari, are a laxative and do not cost very much. Furthermore, you have 8 fish in the equivalent of a 20 gallon tank. Optimally, your Fluval 3 Plus does 185gph, which just falls below the 10x filtration rule of thumb. Now I'm not telling you to go buy anything, I'm just going to point out that even with 2" fish, the added bioload of the danios in a 20g tank may be overstocking it. So what I'm going to tell you is to increase the frequency of your water changes to maybe 25% a week instead of 50% a month. It's 25% so as to not adversely disturb the balance in your aquarium with sudden water changes, but please note that with a higher bioload, it's easier to upset this balance. It's once a week to routinely and constantly remove the buildup if nitrates as some will say that a nitrate level of 25ppm might be of some concern. Also, fish shops do often provide water testing for free. Bring a sample to them in a clean container, and have them test it out. If your fish guy's cool enough to give you the test strips for free, he might just do a quick ammonia test too. However, I suspect that if your nitrites are undetectable and the nitrates are present, then the ammonia should be ok, but it really doesn't hurt to have it checked out. Lastly: the food you have been giving them is a floating type, and as it floats, the fish tend to take in some air while eating. I know it's dedicated goldfish food, but I feel that soaked sinking pellets would be a better option.
  21. Personally, I have a lot of trouble diagnosing symptoms from poop, cos it varies so much - one day it may be white and thin, the next day it's empty, and sometimes there's half a normal poop with half a casing... From the main page, it appears that the difference in diagnosing constipation and bacterial infection is the thickness of the poop and the air bubbles trapped, but it all looks the same to me. So I did dig around about constipation a couple of weeks ago, and found that a bit of Epsom in a pea is considered a laxative, and so are mysis shrimp (frozen ones from Hikari). Might be an idea to try both and see if it is indeed constipation, or replace the tuna with mysis. Both are natural so I can't see the harm in it. I've only just picked up both, and will be trying it out on two different sets of fishes. I also did read this article on fasting and uncycled tanks and how the sudden drop-off in ammonia production can affect the cycling, but I'm not really sure about that.
  22. Hi Federica, Sorry to hear about Sir Lancelot. I'm getting clear stress poops from one of mine, too, and I can't tell which one as there's also a set of normal poo. I've fed peas to see if it's constipation, but there's still a set of stress poo. The garlic is a good idea, I've started feeding them the New Life Spectrum Theta stuff with garlic in it (There's also the non-medicated anti-parasitic NLS food that might be an idea if they have parasites and you don't want him to go through another round of meds). Like you, I've eliminated most of the external factors that can cause this, so I'm also thinking it's internal. If it's tummy trouble, do you think adding some lactobacillus to the gel food would help? Hope he gets well soon!
  23. Unfortunately, the cost of freight is quite prohibitive. Shipping a few bottles of medication, which in total adds up to about $20ish, costs over $100. I have to look for other alternatives, and I may have found an ebay store that'll sell a bottle of Jungle AP for $4 and ship it for $12. I'll find out tomorrow. The orange blob disperses quite quickly, especially with aeration on, and she doesn't recognise it as food. It gets sucked up in the filter eventually, and I have read somewhere that metro does not do good to the good bug colony. The Hikari Lionhead absorbs the blob quite well, much better than the Medigold (Japanese product as discussed here.) Bottle says three days, but I'll keep it going for 14 as you have suggested. I think three days may not be enough for it to take effect. Her appetite today is still good, she gobbled up the soaked pellets very efficiently, and happily took a bit of the orange gel through the syringe. Her movement, however, is quite limited compared to yesterday; she's floating near the surface pretty much in the same spot. She had some bowel movement in the morning, over 12 hours ago, but has had none since. She's such a fighter, I believe she'll pull through, and we're doing our best to make sure her water is pristine, the aeration is strong, that there's sufficient epsom, and that she gets quality meds and food. I feel a huge twinge of sadness reading about other people's fish suffering from dropsy, it's not something I'd wish on any fish. This really is the stuff of nightmares. The fact that her tankmate Ponyo died so fast and suddenly, he started bottom sitting and pineconing and shortly afterwards expired as we tried to get him into a hospital tank, has just made these past few days really really tiring. Pumpkin had pineconed first, but we were so caught up in caring for her, we neglected Ponyo and his water and he seemed to suffer from some nitrate poisoning just before he went. Anyways, I really do hope every moment that Pumpkin will get well soon, and we're very grateful that you've taken the time to share and advise us.
  24. Okay she had her first dose this morning. She couldn't pick it up from the bottle, but we soaked some Hikari Lionhead in it. Each pellet absorbed about a bit more than a drop in a minute, and she had three pellets. We also fed her a bit more gel via syringe, that does work although there is some gel loss. She still has a strong appetite, she ate it all up very quickly. I hope it's not too late, she's been pineconed for a few days already. We'll continue giving her soaked pellets twice a day, but how long do we keep this treatment up for?
  25. Haha this stuff is a pain to use! Once it hits the water it's a transparent orange blob. She's having a hard time picking it out. Have to try to get it straight into her mouth as she comes up, so it's a good thing she surfaces when you call up her name. Also, the good doctors F&S do international delivery, so I'm ordering some metro and Jungle AP also. CL, thanks for the advice, it's much appreciated. I really hope this works, too. Pumpkin's a real trooper.
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