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j0shua

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  1. I read that butt-up was because of intestinal gas, cos Dumpling and Peaches were both doing it. Both of them had the tips of their backs above the water line. For both of them, it went away after a while. In Dumpling's case, his pineconing probably had something to do with it; when his scales started to flatten, he started to float more normally. Peaches was sorted out with a couple of day's worth of peas. Will be switching them to gel food, I suspect the commercial food isn't helping much.
  2. I live in an apartment 2 storeys up. So I decided one day to buy a 30' garden hose, 1/2" diameter, and attached it to my gravel vac (which has a hand pump attached). Fits like a glove. Nowadays I just throw the hose end out of the window, it'll just about reach the garden on the ground floor. The hose is clamped to the window of my apartment so it doesn't completely get chucked out. I then vacuum as normal, it just takes a bit more pumping to get the gravel vac started. Once it starts, there's 25' of siphon level difference, so the vacuum seems a bit more powerful (would it, really? or is is dependent on the diameter of the hose involved?) and it works like magic. Takes 5 minutes to remove 40% of a 29g tank.
  3. Marcus, my oranda does the exact same thing, surfaces, gulps, chews and spits. Immediately after eating. I sometimes see him rolling a bubble of air in his mouth. Tonight's poo (for a 1" bodylength fish) has 2cm of solid poo followed by a big air bubble and a thinner strand of poo. He's just finished week 4 of PraziPro. And I have no idea why he does it, maybe it's to balance out buoyancy.
  4. I find that Hikari Lionhead expands a bit, kinda like 1.5x to 2x the original size when soaked. I always try soaking out new food for half and hour or an hour to see how big and mushy they get. My anti-parasite pellets from GF Utopia expands like mad, even more than the Lionhead. So what I'm using now is the New Life Spectrum Thera-A 2mm pellets, which the goldies love. After half an hour, there is nearly no expansion to the pellet, it kinda breaks apart in a messy mush instead. So I normally soak for maybe a minute before feeding them, and seeing as how they don't expand, I'm thinking they're not going to cause any expansion in my goldies either. Would that be right? And they're chockful of garlic. Federica, why don't you A/B the pellets, soak bothe the saki-hikari and lionhead at the same time, and see how much they expand. The difference might be what's causing the floaties.
  5. What if you cut the end off a syringe so as to make a slightly bigger opening, load it up with freshly made gel food, and squirt that into cold water? Wouldn't the end result be a long thin strand of gel which can be cut into goldie-friendly sizes?
  6. You guys are basically the same colour as mine, and the edge of his scales has some color variation as it gets a bit darker where they overlap. From the side, they look slightly raised, but from the top, they look fine. Very tricky. My eyes went all crossed trying to focus on them haha. Basically, when viewed from the top, if there is no gap between the edge of the scale and the scale immediately underneath it, it's not pineconing. I watched recently as Noodles pineconed, and he's a very small 1" bodylength fish, the gap developed over a couple of days as the scales started to stick out more and more. Where they would follow the curve of his rear to meet at his tail, the scales began to raise ever so slightly, and from the side, it's harder to detect. However, from the top, the edges became visibly detached from the adjoining scale, and even though I noticed it on the first day, it was a bit too late for Noodles. The initial point where the scales start to raise is really hard to detect with small fish, and I watch Dumpling very closely every day to make sure that his are fine. Edited becos my speling badd.
  7. Very good idea. Cement blocks have a ridiculous level of compressive strength. Looks like something that can be put together for a few bucks, in a few minutes, and would last far far longer than any MDF stand (which really basically is regular furniture with the addition of a central column and a couple of brackets).
  8. Thanks for you help, Trinket. Appreciate it. I was very surprised to see Dumpling sit by Noodles, he nudged right in next to him. They've been tank buddies since the LFS, so it must've been sad for Dumpling to see his buddy unwell. I understand your concern about the meds, I wasn't aware of it before. Now that I am, I will take extra care. I've moved Dumpling onto the NLS Thera A food, the one with garlic, to help him out a bit, and will give him peas tonight. Thanks again!
  9. Thanks for your kind words. I noticed something before I moved Noodles out to the hospital tank. He was bottom sitting on the filter intake side, a few inches from the intake itself. Then before I went to bed I had a peek at them. Dumpling had made his way from the opposite side of the tank, where he normally sleeps floating mid-tank, and had put himself next to Noodles on the bottom, like side-by-side and touching, and stayed there the whole night. Strange. Dumpling's fine tho, whatever caused Noodles to dropsy hasn't seemed to affect Dumpling. He's active, swimming, sleeping mid-tank again, eating... I decided to skip the last Prazi dose and keep the UV on nonstop (even before Prazi it was on for about 8 hours/day). I've also taken him off the AP food just in case, Trinket's comment about second doses and kidney failure had me worried.
  10. Noodles didn't make it. He was a little rocket boy, and would swim all over the tank as fast as he could. He'd do his little hello dance, where he would slowly float up to the surface at the front of the tank, and dive straight down as fast as he could, wiggling away. And he'd do it again and again until he'd be distracted by food. And he taught Dumpling how to do the hello dance too. He was so observant, he'd see me from across the room and perk up. He'd sense my motion and would look up immediately. And he'd be so fast to snatch the food that just a few days ago I was wondering why he kept on missing the pellet and swimming right by it. He was bottom sitting a lot but I didn't really imagine it'll turn out like this so fast. Even last night, a bit more than 24 hours ago, he was snatching up the MediFood I dropped in. He's buried now next to Ponyo and Pumpkin, in the garden under a smaller flowerpot. I'm sorry I couldn't save you, little buddy. Sleep well.
  11. No, not good at all. He's extremely weak now. Floating upside down. It wasn't like this with Ponyo. Ponyo pineconed very suddenly and died shortly after, and never got thinner or floated upside down, but just bottom-sat. Noodles can't seem to hold food in, and spits it out almost immediately. His breathing is strained and he's struggling. I found him next to the sponge filter, maybe it drew him in a bit. He does get swayed by any current, and he doesn't have the strength to fight it
  12. Thanks for helping out, too, Lupin. Just got home, found Noodles on the bottom, upside-down next to the filter. He's struggling, his breathing is shallow. He's really weak, he's having trouble swimming around and cannot right himself. Scales are not as raised anymore, they've gone down a bit, and he looks gaunt. But I fear he may not be able to fight for very much longer Going to move him to a fresh tub of water now.
  13. Remember to shake the Prazi bottle a bit before using it, as per instructions behind. Because I didn't, the first couple of times 0.o
  14. Thanks Trinket. The bad smell is always a bad thing, Ponyo had that before he went and we detected it too late I'll proceed with the MediFood for a 14 day run, and hope he lasts that long. I'll also increase aeration and do 1/4tsp Epsom per 5g of water. The sponge filter has been in their tank for close to a month, so I think there is some BB colonization there to help keep ammo/nitrites down. I will still do 50% daily changes, possibly even 2x 30% daily changes.
  15. [*]Test Results for the Following: [*]Ammonia Level? 0 [*]Nitrite Level? 0 [*]Nitrate level? 10 [*]Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)? 7.6 [*]Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)? 7.6 [*]Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API Freshwater Master Test Kit [*]Water temperature? 27 Celcius [*]Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? They were in a 10g temp tank for the past 3 weeks as I had to move the 29g around. filters running for about 4 months. Noodles is now in a 6g hospital tub. No gravel in any, no decorations either. [*]What is the name and size of the filter(s)? Aquaclear 50, Eheim 2213, sponge filter [*]How often do you change the water and how much? 30% twice weekly [*]How many fish in the tank and their size? 2, about 1" bodylength [*]What kind of water additives or conditioners? Nutrafin Aqua Plus [*]What do you feed your fish and how often? Twice daily, small amounts. They have been on Jungle AP for three days/week starting Mondays for past 3 weeks. [*]Any new fish added to the tank? No [*]Any medications added to the tank? They are week 4 of Prazi treatment, which goes in on Mondays too. [*]Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Pineconing [*]Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc? Noodles was bottom sitting a lot Sigh. After losing Pumpkin and Ponyo to dropsy, now Noodles has started to pinecone. Noodles and Dumpling were in the 10g temp tank as I was prepping the 29g stand. They've been in there for about 3 weeks. They get twice weekly 30% water changes and bottom vacs. They have filtration for the 29g with them too, but the Aquaclear 50 is turned down to half. They were doing fine, and Dumpling is still fine, active and eating well. Noodles, on the other hand, has been bottom sitting lately, and just laying down without moving much. He'd perk up instantly when he'd see me, and swim around a fair bit before heading back down. They've gone through 3 weeks of Prazi, this is their 4th. They're also on week 4 of Jungle AP (first 3 days a week). But on Saturday, Noodles' scales started raising, so I moved him into the 6g hospital with the sponge filter that I washed in tank water. Also dosed with Epsom salt at a rate of 1/8tsp to 5g. I have an unopened pack of MediFood from GF Utopia, which appears to be the same as MetroMeds in terms of ingredients - metronidazole, ormetoprim-sulfa and oxytetracycline (ordered it for Pumpkin and Ponyo but it didn't make it in time, sadly). Noodles has had the first day of the med food, and he snapped it up immediately. This morning his scales looked a bit more raised (although not super full blown pineconing yet - not like how Pumpkin was before she passed) but he was really listless and struggled to eat. I dropped food in front of him, which he took, but he didn't bother with the ones nearby, which he would've the day before. The water had a bad smell to it, which wasn't there last night, so I did a quick 50% change before rushing out. He did poo a bit, which I removed. Tested for ammonia and nitrites, both returned as zero. Matched PH(7.6) and temp (27C) before I filled (water was left overnight). It'll take a few days of MediFood for him to get better I believe, but wondering why he ended up worse off this morning. Any pointers? Edited to add that they were on AP food/Prazi cos both were gasping at the surface a lot, and I never treated them for parasites until the Prazi and food got shipped to me, and the LFS tank they came from had some sick fish. Thanks.
  16. Currently my 2 Orandas, also about 1" each in body length, are in a 10g temp tank going thru some anti-parasite treatment with Prazi and AP food (10g = less Prazi used haha). It's a cycled tank so ammo and nitrites are 0. They're both okay there for now, but like in your case, I wouldn't leave them there for too long. I'm finishing off my 29g stand so once that's done, they're back in the big tank. 29g (typically a 2 1/2 foot tank) is ideal for 2 Orandas, as it'll allow them to grow into that space and gives them a healthy 15g each. There's more leeway when dealing with their toxic waste. Goldfish produce a hormone that limits their growth, so with more water in the tank, the longer it'll take for that hormone levels in the water to build up between water changes. Speaking of water changes, I agree with the advice given above: do daily water changes of 50% or more, it removes the toxic ammonia and nitrates that are building up. It has to be 50% or more so you're constantly diluting the existing ammonia and nitrates to manageable levels. Any less and they'd start to build up and up. It'll take a while before the cycle kicks in, so you're looking at about 2-3 weeks of daily changes. You can try to speed it up by obtaining used media/bio-rings/etc, although I'd take them either from a healthy disease-free tank, or the tank they originally came from. That way you can seed in some beneficial bacteria to speed up the process. You'd want to put in an air pump and a bubbler, or even better a small sponge filter. Sponge filters plug into airlines and they give a generous amount of surface action, as well as act as a bed for beneficial bacteria, they are also cheap and you simply wash the sponge and never have to buy a new one. Also useful as a temp filter (when cycled) for a hospital tank. Edit: just saw the vid, my guys are the same size as your guys! Also, +1 for log removal.
  17. Hi, managed to snap some photos of the ranchus They were all feeling unwell when they arrived home. This is Peaches the crystal ranchu, the queen of the main tank and the biggest of the three. She had a bit of cloudy eye the day after she arrived, but some Melafix and salt righted that. She was lethargic and listless for a day or so, but now she's moving around and eating fine. She's a bit shy, but will respond to touch and totally ignores the net. She's also an amazing waste generator This is Pebbles, also crystal, currently in one of the QT tubs. She had cloudy eye too, and we suspect Peaches got it from her, hence the QT. Her eyes both turned a bit red inside, but that has cleared out. She also had white patches all over her wen and body for the first few days, but again, light salting and Melafix sorted that. Her tailfin isn't in the best condition, one side looks like there was some rot, but it's getting better. She's very active and eats well, and responds very well to human touch. She has no fear of the net or anything in the tank. What concerns me is that she has three black dots behind her right eye, which you can see in the first pic. Any idea what that is? And this is the problem boy, Patches. This is him peeking up cos he saw my finger there: He'd chase my finger around like this, so he has no problem with human contact either. He's a huge attention seeker, and will come up to the surface and smack his lips to call out to us haha. Top view: Now one of the problems was that the QT tub he was in had corners, and a cutout for carrying handles. When startled, he'd try to do a frantic 180 turn from the corner he was in, and in the process, his tail would hit the side of the tank with some force. You can see some bruising on the bottom of his tail where it hit the tank in the next pic: He's done a bit of damage to his tail. In addition to losing a couple of scales, his fin was all streaked red and there were blood patches on top which did clear out the next day. His light colouring makes it easy to see the bruising on his body, and after a particularly violent splash, much of his tail up to his back looked a bit red. As a solution, I bought a 2' diameter and 1' deep round plastic container, which holds a bit over 10g with a couple of inches of room to spare so he can't jump out. There aren't any corners for him to hit, and the sponge filter in the middle is too soft to do any damage. It's also opaque, so he doesn't get startled by people suddenly moving outside the tank. He settled in there pretty well yesterday, but he's still scared of the net and when the loose plastic board covering his tub gets removed. He's gone on frantic runs looking for food too, cos he motorboats in so fast he usually misses it on the first pass. When I scooped him up in a small plastic tub to move him, he was wiggling around in his corner frantically, so I put my finger in, and he saw that, and immediately made a run for my finger. I baited him into the small tub, and when he realised he was trapped he started splashing around, but I quickly moved him into the new round tub, and stuck my finger in to calm him down. He relaxed very quickly - he soon started swimming around slowly and rubbing up against my hand and nibbling on my finger. Maybe I should stick a plastic hand in his tub to keep him happy haha. Anyways, it's easier to see his poo in a dark tub, and we'll slowly condition him to not fear a net I guess. Having him in an environment where he can't hurt himself is a big step forward right now
  18. Mine can see a good 3-4 metres in daylight room conditions. I've noticed that they respond to movement far more - I've stood motionless about 2 metres and they didn't do their hello dance. But if I walk past at twice that distance, and they notice the movement, they start yapping for attention! They do respond to colour. I use a green cup to prepare their food, and they go nuts when they see it. The clear glass salt preparation cup doesn't bring out the same response.
  19. Sure! UV kills water-borne pathogens, bacteria and algae (and parasites, if the flow rate is slow enough). Primarily clears up the algae that causes green water. Basically, it's a bright UV light in a watertight case, and water is pumped in one end and out the other. The water is exposed to the light, which then results in the undesirables being killed. The slower the water going through, the more is killed. Algae doesn't need much exposure to get rid of, but bacteria and parasites do. Slowing down flow with a ball valve helps effectiveness. UV only works on waterborne stuff, your algae and bacteria stuck on tank walls will still remain. Cost-wise, there's the initial investment into purchasing the unit, but the bulbs usually have to be changed every 12 months as their effectiveness drops off after that. There's the electricity usage also. The UV comes in different wattages, depending on tank size. I'm using a 9w on a 29g tank atm. Make sure bulbs are cheap and readily available when you select your UV unit, there's nothing worse than paying a heap for one and finding out that the bulbs either cost a bomb, or can't be found.
  20. My fish guy who's been breeding championship fancies did mention to me that you have to keep an eye on the bulb and change it when it's due, as goldies that live in 24/7 sterilised water are open to potential infections and problems when the UV bulb dies off. Living in pathogen-free water probably lowers their resistance to the bugs over time. My UV is off at the moment, as I'm doing a Prazi course, but it's set to turn on for 12 hours over night (it does warm the water a bit, and night's cooler), but I'm not exactly sure how effective that is, considering bacteria reproduction rates. I do know of another breeder that does the 12hr thing, so maybe it does the job fine.
  21. Hi guys, thanks for the replies. We do use a gravel vac for water changes, but as all the tanks and tubs are barebottom, we (and the little guys) can easily see poo sitting around. These ranchus have been known for being poo-eaters, so we try to remove any we see as soon as possible. The crystals don't really bother with the net, it's only Patches. In fact, a bit of food was dropped into the tank just now, and he knew it was there but couldn't target it and see it, and did a huge violent splash and rocketed around looking for it. Again the redness in his tail increased. These sudden bursts of movement isn't good for him Also, none of the tanks or tubs have lights at the moment, they rely on the natural light from the window nearby for illumination. It's a shaded window, so it's not bright. There's also a translucent cover we put over Patches' tank (with an air gap), because we were afraid that this sudden movement might result in him taking a big jump out. We don't move them at all since they got into their tanks. He's been moved maybe 5 times in total ever since we got him a week ago, from the LFS tank to the bag to main tank to QT to his new tub. The sponge filters they have are generating a large amount of surface action and aeration for oxygen, and I've cut out a bit of the sponge inside the filter to chuck in some Eheim Substrat with beneficial bacteria to help things along. They all also have a bag of the same media sitting over the filters like I saw in the LFS. We do twice daily water changes, so ammonia is trace and nitrates nil. Routine-wise, they've settled very quickly: all of them start crowding in the corner nearest to the staircase, surfacing and generally making some noise by sucking/spitting air and water, at about the same time they're expecting food every day already, and they all will happily take food from my hand. I've been using a net for the past few months as a food delivery tool for the two orandas so as to make sure the smaller one gets just a bit more food from his bigger greedier brother, and they're so used to it that they actually poke around into the net looking for food. I'm thinking of slowly using the net to introduce food for Patches, first by dropping it in from a distance with the net, then over a month or so, bringing the net closer in. I agree that I have to be patient with him and slowly learn his habits, and what sets him off and such. He has the most adorable cherubic face that pops up to greet me when I look down into his tub
  22. We bought 3 new ranchus last week. They're Tung Hoi ranchus, and are all super cute and about 3". Two are female crystal ranchus, and the other is a male sakura ranchu named Patches. All respond readily to human touch, they have been handled and moved from tank to tank by hand since they were babies, from what I've seen what the local breeders and importers do here. They all respond to hand feeding, and if I dip a finger in, they'd come peck at it. Now, when we introduced Patches and the others into the main tank, they all settled fine. Tank is still cycling. I dipped a net in to scoop a poo, and the moment Patches saw the net, he freaked himself out and frantically swam right into the Aquaclear intake, and took off a scale. Seeing as how he hurt himself, we moved him into a plastic 10g QT tank with a big sponge filter and salted accordingly. His tail had red streaks and a big red welt, but that healed up by the next day. We now try to scoop poo out when he's facing away, or when he's at the other side of the tank. Today, while scooping, he noticed the net and again splashed around and shot off like mad, and after he'd calmed down I noticed some bleeding just before his tail area where it hit the side of the tank, and the red streaks all over his tail. He might've taken another scale off, but I can't really tell from the top. The other two couldn't be bothered by the net at all, they simply ignore it. I'm wondering why his behaviour is so different, and how I can work around this. He gets scared by all sorts of stuff, like the small tub I use to scoop water in. Very worried he'd hurt himself more, cos he's quite special and really really really cute. I'll post up a pic later, he's really won our hearts. Anyone dealt with something like this before?
  23. Sakura, I'm so sorry about Momo I've been reading so much about Momo and I know he was a special one. When Ponyo went first, I saw his lips quiver rapidly just before he took his last breath. The same happened to Pumpkin seconds before she faded away, I saw her lips quiver also. Hoping and praying that the rest get better. Stay strong.
  24. Noodles sleeps on the bottom facing out towards where I normally am in the room. Dumpling floats an inch above the bottom, and faces away. They can't really see me at night from where they are, and the lights are really dim. I do occasionally find them sleeping during the day, with Noodles on the bottom. The moment he sees me, he springs up and starts swimming around. Sometimes I'll just stand there and wait a bit for him to snap out of his zzzzz, but he detects motion from about 2-3m away pretty well, even in low light. Dumpling occasionally wakes up to say hi, but mostly, he values his sleep more than saying hi to me, unless he sees me approaching with their green feeding cup
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