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Everything posted by valkyrie

  1. I believe after about 2 weeks you should change your carbon. It gets used up pretty quick.
  2. A couple penguin 330 filters and a canister filter would work nicely. That's what I had on my 55 gallon. The canister I had was an eheim 2213.
  3. The round chubby type goldfish are fancies. They need a minimum of 10 gallons each. So you would need a 20 gallon tank at least for 2 of them. As for a filter for your tank, for goldfish you should get a filter that turns over 10 times the amount of water in your tank per hour. So if you have a 10 gallon tank you'd need a filter that did 100 gallons per hour, or 200 gph for a 20 gallon tank. If you don't have enough filtration it'll be very hard to keep your tank clean, since goldfish are so messy! For heaters, use a 50-75 watt for a 10 gallon, 75-100 watt for a 20 gallon. Good luck on your new fish, and welcome to the board!
  4. My penguin 330's always had some water flowing over the intake tube too. I kept it to a minimum by cleaning the cartridges often, and replacing them when they started causing water to overflow too soon after rinsing the cartridges. What would be the use of sliding up the cartridges? Wouldn't the water just flow under them and avoid being cleaned, just as it would going out over the intake tube?
  5. I had flourite in my tanks, and it only clouds the water initially when you first put it in, or if you're digging around in it planting, etc. A small micron filter pad will clear up the water pretty quickly. Another benefit of planting in pots is that you can use a high quality expensive substrate because you won't need as much as you would if you were covering the whole tank.
  6. I haven't bought any plants from aquarium plant depot, but I have bought from aquariumplant.com and their plants are quite nice.
  7. You mean the feeding blocks you put in your tank for your fish when you're out of town? Those aren't very good to use with goldfish, because they will sit there and eat the entire thing until its all gone and then starve the rest of the time. Instead a better solution is to get a friend to feed them for you when you're gone, or get an automatic feeder. Automatic feeders can malfuntion and the food will be fed dry to the fish, so getting someone to feed them for you is the best solution. If you're worried about the person overfeeding your fish, put each feedings worth in a little baggie and label it day 1 morning, day 1 evening, day 2, whatever, and hide the rest of the food, so the person won't be tempted by "starving" begging goldfish.
  8. I wouldn't try using chemicals to remove algae. Most of them aren't for use in planted tanks anyway, but even ones that are I wouldn't use. I once tried using an algaecide and within a few minutes all my previously normal and active fish became lethargic and started resting on the bottom, even though I'd followed the instructions to a T. I did a large water change and pitched that bad stuff down the sink! My fish perked right up after the water change and were fine. I'm not sure if algaecides work for brown algae, since its not really algae (it's diatoms), they might only work for true alages. To control brown algae, you can try: making sure your water quality is good, because poor quality water can cause brown algae; adding more light (and replacing old light bulbs), since low light might cause excess brown algae; an algae sponge (brown algae is very easy to wipe off); changing your rocks to darker colored one where the algae won't show up much; testing your water for phosphates/silicates and using a phosphate/silicate removing media to get rid of them. Brown algae is normal for new aqariums, so if yours is new you might just need to wait it out. One of my favorite stragagies for handling algae is using natural colored gravels, rocks, ornaments, etc, so the algae isn't as visible, it makes a huge difference. For everything else, I just wipe the glass and the leaves on my larger-leafed plants and it looks pretty good. Some plants also don't look as bad with algae on their leaves, such as the reddish, brownish, and very dark green varieties. Light-colored slow-growing plants with small leaves that you can't wipe are the ones that look the worst when they have algae on them.
  9. Actually, goldfish can live in the wild in the US -- there's laws about releasing goldfish (as well as other non-native fish) into the lakes and rivers where I live (Montana), so I guess they're a problem. They must be single-tails to be able to live up north here in the winter! If you have a pond it has to be built where any water that floods out won't go into any creeks or ditches that might take fish or eggs into the rivers. We were thinking about water-proofing one of our natural ponds so we could put fish in it, but it was illegal to do that since the water overflows and ends up in a river eventually. I wonder if fishermen around here ever catch illegal goldfish? lol
  10. It takes several weeks for scales to grow back, but they will come back! My oranda Apricot lost a bunch of scales on her sides when she got stuck between a heater (off, fortunately) and the gravel. They've all come back.
  11. First of all, you have WAY too little filtration on the tank, so its not surprising that you're having problems keeping your water clean. A fluval 304 filters 260 gallons per hour. Goldfish need a minimum of 10 times the number of gallons in the tank filtered per hour. You need at least 550 gph on your tank. I would get more because you have large fish. I would add 2 penguin 330s on the tank along with the fluval to bring up your filtration. How many fish are in the tank, and what kind are they (fancy varieties or non-fancy)? I wouldn't put more than 3 large fancy goldfish in a 55 gallon tank, and no more than 2 non-fancy. Having the right stocking density and the right amount of filtration will help immensely in keeping your tank clean and reducing maintainance.
  12. You can try fasting your fish, then giving them vegetables. They're more likely to try something different if they're very hungry.
  13. I have a few ramshorns, malaysian trumpets, and regular aquarium snails. I see the little globs of eggs in my tanks all the time, and occasionally a few baby snails, but I never get any more adult snails because my goldfish eat most of the eggs, and if they don't get some eggs and they hatch, they eat the baby snails when they find them.
  14. I got the julian sprung's sea veggies from drs foster and smith online. It's 100% dried marine algae (theres green, red, and purple varieties), for marine and freshwater fish. I soak a piece of the sheet and crumble it up into a feeding cone for the fish to suck out, so it doesn't make as much of a mess.
  15. Gel food is great, it keeps my sdb fish from getting floaty. I make mine with various types of veggies, whatever kinds I have around the house that that are good for goldies, plus whatever freeze-dried fish food I have, and seafood like sardines, tuna, salmon, shrimp, and fish vitamins. My fish love their gel food.
  16. If you're trying to cycle the tank, using ammonia removing media isn't a good idea, because it takes the ammonia out of the water so its not available for the good bacteria to use. It's better to use an ammonia binder water additive like amquel+ or prime, which will detoxify the ammonia for the fish, but leave it available for the bacteria to use.
  17. I always have brown algae in my tanks, even though my lighting is good (about 2.5 watts per gallon full spectrum lighting, bulbs still pretty new, on 12-13 hours per day), my water quality is good, and the tanks have been set up for a while. It's not a huge amount of it, and not too much trouble to wipe off the glass, but it's rather unattractive on live plants, and while I can wipe it off larger leaved varieties, its quite impossible to do that to the smaller leaved types! Phosphate absoring media help keep down the algae but don't eliminate it.
  18. I'd leave the filter on, and take out the ammonia pad instead, to see if the ammonia comes up again. You don't want to kill off the newly established bacteria that are in the filter by turning it off! I doubt its the filter current causing cloudiness, perhaps your tank is having a bacterial bloom, which is common for new tanks, or your filtration isn't sufficient, as daryl mentioned. What is a whisper 30-60? Do you mean to say a 300 gph whisper 60? Or a whisper 30? The whisper 60 would have sufficient filtration (@ 300 gph) but a whisper 30 wouldn't (@ 150 gph). Hope this helps!
  19. Total alkalinity is also known as kh. It's the measurement of the carbonates in your water, which keep your ph steady. I'm not sure about the effects of having too-high kh, since I always have the opposite problem! Cycling is when your aquarium goes though stages of raised ammonia, then nitrites, then finally nitrates, as the good bacteria that make up your biological cycle become established in your tank.
  20. In addition to the plants ranchugirl mentioned, cryptocorynes are a nice easy plant that grow in low-light conditions. The only thing about them is that they may "melt" when you first plant them (lose their leaves like they are dying, though they aren't) when they are trying to acclimate themselves to their new environment, but they will come back nicely. There are a lot of different varieties as well, and fish usually don't eat them.
  21. Keep your fish in the tank, not the bowl. The bowl isn't cycled either, so its no use leaving them in it while you're cycling the tank. You should buy and ammonia binder, such as amquel+ or prime, to add to your tank. It will detoxify the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate for the fish, while still leaving it available for the good bacteria to use. Keep up the daily water changes, and change more than 15% when you need to. Adding a heater, if you don't have one already, is a good idea, because it will accelerate the cycling process (set it at about 75-78 degrees). You should get the tests for nitrate and nitrite soon, and test frequently. A kh test is also very important, because kh holds your ph steady, and keeping your kh in good condition will ensure that your ph holds steady. Good luck, and welcome to koko's!
  22. There could be import/export rules about shipping fish from one country to another. There was a discussion a while back about someone who was moving to a different country and wanted to take his/her fish, and the import/export laws made it too difficult to be worth it. Phoenix eggfish sure are cool though, I'd love to have one too! Post some pics if you get one.
  23. My fish don't mind the current, as long as they have places to rest from it. I don't have bubble eyes though, I have orandas, moors, and a ryukin, which are stronger swimmers than bubble eyes. My orandas like to swim up right into the overflow from my filters and swim in place eating algae off of the edges of the overflow, then let go and get whooshed away.
  24. I have a moor with 4 orandas, and he has cataracts and doesn't see very well. I always feed in the same place, and I give my fish homemade gel food, which I cut into big enough pieces so he can tell they're there. He's good at scouting along the bottom also to pick up food there, so I let some pieces of gel food land on the bottom for him to find. I have a feeding ring and feeding cone, and the fish have learned to eat from them, which they can do no problem without actually having to see the food. The ring is for floating food, and the cone for small sinking foods that can be sucked out of the holes. It's a good idea to give your fish some veggies along with the flake or pellet that you feed, it makes their diet more balanced and they chew it longer, so your fantail will have to chew when she gets her mouth full, and the moor can find some food at a slower pace without her eating it all.
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