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austinado16

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Posts posted by austinado16

  1. I don't heat the tank. It's 70 gallons, so it's not going to fluctuate temp fast, or very far. It stays 69-70 in the winter and 73-74ish in the spring, summer, and fall.

    We keep our home at a constant tempurature. It takes a huge amount of energy......and that means money.......to heat up a home that's been allowed to get cold. It takes very little $$$ to maintain a constant temp.

  2. Comets ROCK!!!!! You are fantastic for saving her/him. Thank you!!!

    Here's my 2 cents worth:

    -face to face time and swimming with your hand. They love that. They're like puppies.

    -mine love all sorts of fresh foods, lime, lemon, orange (slices or wedges), minced garlic from those little glass jars in the grocery store.....just toss some into the tank, bits of avocado, organic cooked peas that you pinch the skin off of, and then toss in.

    -I only feed mine Ocean Nutrician Spirulina Flake. it sinks immediately, and they tear it up! I don't fast them, and I don't feed them blood worms or any other creatures.

    Regarding the friend. Yes, I say get one. Get another Comet. They pal around rubbing against each other, they sleep near each other, and in general, just hang together. it's really fun to see them interact.

    Filtration and a huge amount of bio media is the only way to go, so either hang a couple of big Aqua Clears, or get a canister like a Fluval. The surface of the water needs to be aggitated, so have something that does that for you whether it's a little pond pump, a spray bar for the exit on a canister filter, a bubble stick burried under the gravel, etc. You want the water surface bumpy and the water at the bottom of the tank to be circulating up top so it can exchange it's CO2 with the O2 up top.

    Heater.........it's a Comet, no heat needed. Just let the tank be at room temp, like 69ish-74ish. That's plenty good.

    I'm glad to see the tank has gravel. They love to spend all day rooting around looking for food. Gives 'em something to do.

  3. When I buy for my tank, I think, "Okay, when these knuckleheads are banging around in there chasing each other, what happens when they hit this?"

    Anyway, I've avoided getting anything with a pointy or spike type of leaf or feature because I can only imagine one of them getting poked in the eye.

    That said, mmm.....I do have about 9 pieces of petrified wood in the tank. Maybe you shouldn't listen to me.

  4. Maybe try clipping a couple slices of lime to the inside of the tank.....or lemon or orange. That'll give everybody something communal to do for hours, and it's really good for them.

    Mine get chasing at feeding time, but it doesn't last long. For a while it got pretty bad, but it's really brief now. Not sure why. It was pretty crazy watching single tails chase and dart about. The largest Comet can snap her tail, vanish, and reapear on the other side of the tank. I'm pretty sure she can bend time.

  5. Canister filter user/lover here. Love how quiet it is, it holds an addition 2.5G of water, the filter media surface area is about 10 times that of an HOB, it holds 3-4lbs of ceramic bio media, plus there's still room to have water polishing pads, or charcoal, or denitrate granules, etc.

    Just a comment on the hoods on tanks; I've always read that GF tanks should be as open up top as possible for best oxygen and carbondioxide exchange at the surface of the water. So basically, that's light hoods, and nothing else.

  6. I have a 3D background inside my tank. Purchased it from this seller on ebay:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Beautiful-3d-Aquarium-Background-Show-Tank-wet-dry-/260791810646?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb8673a56

    If I ever do another one, I'll mount it outside rather than inside and glue black art board to the sides and top/bottom so that no light can get in around it, in order to make it look better through the back glass. I don't run HOB filters, so this wouldn't be a problem to have it outside the tank. Plus, I wouldn't loose 3" of real estate and probably 5G of water capacity having it inside.

    I really like the look of the blue water surface. That adds great depth.

  7. Well, I don't know what it's like where you live, but used tanks, usually with all their equipment piled inside, are a dime-a-dozen around here. Yard sales/Garage sales/Estate sales/Sunday Swapmeet/Craigslist, etc. All cheap.....super cheap. A 30 won't be much bigger than a 20, so shouldn't affect where it'll go that much.

    IMO, owning "good" fish is kind of the luck of the draw. I think they all come from horrid conditions at massive breader locations, survive horrid feeding and shipping, and then the horrors at most places that finally sell them. I don't know if that's "worse" for Goldfish, or not, but expecially for single tails (Comets and Commons), they are supposed to be feeder fish, not pets..........so you can imagine how they are bred and raised.

    Hope you can stumble across a swingin' deal on a big tank, you'll spend less money in the long run if you have the right gallons, and much better filtration/bio media/surface aggitation/water circulation/oxygenation.

  8. Fluval 406? Mmm.....I need to go check that out!

    I've been running a 405 on my 70 for almost 2 years. It was on my 30 and then the 55, before I finished restoring the 70.....so I've had it in service for exactly 2 years. Who knows what it's real output is, and I have it almost completely full of their ceramic bio media. 3-4lbs of the stuff maybe. Anyway, it keeps up, and my fish are huge. The water's always very clean/clear and Ammonia/Nitrite are always zero.

  9. One thing to consider is that there's more oxygen at the water at the top of the tank, as this is where the gas exchange (from the CO2 in the water to the O2 in the air), occurs. So one common cause for gulping/piping at the top, is that they're sort of suffocating. One cure is to put in a small pond pump that lifts the water from the bottom of the tank, up to the top, and sort of shoves it up above the surface in a mound. This gets the CO2 ladden water off the bottom, and puts it up top where it can exchange with O2. The little Rio brand of pond pumps are excellent for this. They're small, like 1" or so square, with suction cups. on the side. Pretty inexpensive to purchase too. I've been using a Rio60 on my 70G. I put it in the opposite end of the tank, from the filter pickup.

  10. I'm a big Comet lover (and owner), so I'm bummed to hear about all the problems you're having. I hope you're able to stabilize and improve the situation. You've sure done a great job so far.

    dnalex has you completely covered and I just wanted to toss out a couple thoughts:

    -The tank is too small and the filter is too. There's just not enough water, and not enough bio media in the filter to support those 2. I really think it's important to address that.

    -As someone else has suggested, get the API drops test kit. It's the only real way to know what's happening in the tank.

    -For now, I'd probably remove all of the gravel and maybe even the fake plants. I'd bleach the plants and put them back after a good rinse, but I'd leave the tank bare bottom.

    -I'm not a fan of fasting the fish. I've never done it to ours, and out biggest Comet is probably 7 years old now. IMO, the fish need food, and so does the tank's cycle.

    -I don't boil peas or garlic. They get "minced garlic" straight out of the little glass jar that I buy at the grocery store. They love it, and gariic is a natural anti-bacterial. I'd be giving it to your fish every single day. When I give peas, I buy a can of them, pinch off the skin, and drop a few in.

    -While I'm on the subject of food, I'll add that I feed my fish a lot of citrus, and avocado too. They get slices of lime and lemon, and full quarters of oranges that I clip to the inside of the glass. Sometimes I'll just stand there with a really ripe avocado, and a knife, and flick hunks into the water.......they go nuts for this kind of stuff, and it's very good for them. Their main food is Ocean Nutrician Spirulina Flake. I'm a fan of spirulina.

    -With all these water changes, be aware that the new water has a lot of oxygen trapped in it. That starves the fish for oxygen. To combat this, you need a couple things. First, when filling the tank let the water fall from as high as possible, and it's that splashing that helps release the oxygen. Second have something like a small Rio pond pump that circulates the water from the bottom to the top, and makes good surface aggitation. It's that tumbling of the water, and the surface aggitation that releases the CO2 and exchanges it with fresh O2. The little pond pumps are cheap. Consider an air stone or bubble stick. The bubbles don't add oxygen to the tank per-se, but when they pop at the surface, that releases CO2 and allows O2 to get into the water. The bubbles also create a bit of "current" that moves the CO2 ladden water from the bottom of the tank, up to the top, where it can exchange for O2. Again, all this promotes really healthy water, and much enhanced environment for the fish.

    -Start watching your local craigslist for people selling used 30 and 40 gallon tanks. They'll be cheap....dirt cheap.....and allow you to upgrade for pennies on the dollar. Typically, you'll even get extra gear.

    -Lastly, I know your Comet has been sick, so this may be part of it, but that fish doesn't look right to me. Don't take that personal please. What strikes me, is the flatness from the bottom jaw back under the belly. Again, I know it's been sick and still is......but that flat "sucked in" look to me, looks like a fish that genetically has problems. I've seen them in the tanks at the LFS, and they stand out because a Comet is typically very nicely bullet shaped, not catfish shaped as yours is. Anyway, what I'm concerned with is that the fish may just have some serious health issues due to genetics, and you're in this horrible uphil battle against that. I hope I'm very wrong.

    Thanks for reading and I wish you the best of luck with the fish!

  11. I could be wrong, but I don't believe they are made with tempered glass. It's just standard plate glass. Tempered glass would be really expensive. The fact that the tank's get cracks in the glass is an indication that they are just plate glass. Tempered glass is heated and pulled under tension from all sides, and then cooled that way. So the built in tension causes it to be incredibly strong, but when you break that surface tension, it explodes into small nuggets (it's what automotive side and back glass is made out of, for that reason).

    The idea of glassing over the bottom is good. Bed the new glass in a lot of silicone.....as in, you'll use a couple of the 10.3oz caulking gun size tubes, both to bed it against the old glass bottom, and to seal the edges of the new glass. It'll take it a week or 2 to fully cure, but that's okay. When done, it should be bulletproof.

    Plate glass is fairly inexpensive, and you'll probably want to have a piece of 1/4" thick cut for that bottom.

    I built my vintage 70 (in my signature) out of 1/4" for the ends, and 3/8" for the front and back that span 4'. I spent up for Starfire for the front glass.

  12. Single tails are awesome, and maybe this is a sign that you need an 80G with Comets and Commons! Single tails are a blast!!

    I agree with the above.....stop buying fish from Walmart.

    Personally, I'd have thrown the sand away, and probably the driftwood too. I would have let the tank sit for maybe a week with the bleach water full to the rim, and put anything else I was keeping, in at the same time, including the filters. Or, for an 80, tossed the HOB's and gone with a pair of Fluval 305's.

    er did you check your PH and water levels before adding the fish? seems to me with all that bleach that there would still be bleach in the tank. i know that if you ever accidentally put dishes in a sink of that you are bleaching, you should never eat off them again....

    What? I've bleached dishes before, and never had an issue using them. Even using straight bleach, like bleaching coffee/tea stains out of white coffee mugs or tea cups, or a coffee maker, or even my vintage Melmac soup/cereal bowls. No problem at all. Plus,the OP can treat the tank with Prime to remove all chlorine taces.

  13. Just an example of what's possible....

    I'm running a Fluval 405 on my 70 and that's it. 2 years now. 7 of it's 8 compartments are the ceramic bio media cylinders that Fluval sells. In the 8th position, I'll put a micro polishing pad, or carbon. There's probably about 3 or 4lbs of bio media in it. It outlets via a 45" long spray bar at the back, right at the water line, with the holes in the spray bar facing out across the top of the water. I've got a 44" Marineland bubble stick powered by a Tetra Whisper 60, burried under the gravel at the base of the 3D back wall. The gravel is 1"-2" deep depending on how I've piled it, or how diligent they've been at re-sculpting it.

    Before getting the XP's, read reviews. I think the XP4 has had a bunch of problems with breaking the impeller due to it using the XP3 impeller, on a motor that's too big.

  14. I responded to John's email asking him about how much the Aquaripure can be expected to lower the pH and I also asked if I really needed the medium, or if I could get by with the small.

    Here's his answer:

    Hello again,

    The unit never needs to be taken apart and it will never become clogged internally. I've opened one up that was in heavy use for 5 years and the internal media was as good as new. The most that you will need to do is occasionally clean the outflow lines but that is easy to do.

    The pH drop is not a big issue in my opinion. In my 55g reef tank I keep the pH at 8.2 I find that a teaspoon of baking soda every 2 weeks is enough to keep the pH in check. In this tank I would say the pH drops about 0.1 per week and so it is never a fast or dramatic difference. A little cheap baking soda is all it takes to bring it right back up. In different tanks the pH might drop a little faster but in my previous 180g tank it was about the same.

    Most people buy my filters for zero nitrates or as close to it as possible and so I would recommend the bigger filter. Again, the pH thing is pretty easy to take care of. I need to explain it better on the website and manual.

    I do understand that a lot of people really love goldfish and it is a big community. Honestly, there are a lot of different types of fish where the owners really take pride in them (i.e. discus, oscars, arowanas, cichlids, etc.) and I truly want a company and products that can take care of ALL of them. The simple truth is that I am finding all the different tanks have more in common than not and it is my personal goal to help them all and inform and educate aquarists across the board and provide truly innovative and effective products to improve the quality of life for both the fish and their owners.

    Please let me know if I may be of further assistance.

    Kind Regards,

    John Strawn

    Aquaripure, LLC

    www.aquaripure.com

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