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Everything posted by Lionchu

  1. Hikari Lionhead are very hard pellets, maybe that's why his chewing looks abnormal, yeah just try with peas or gel food or something soft and compare. Maybe there is nothing to be alarmed here. As for the wen issue, to be honest I'm not 100% sure if this is an ulcer or not as I cannot get a very good look at it. I've to keep shaking my head too while following your fish...lol I think for the time being just follow Alex instructions using the Kanaplex.
  2. Thanks, Katt. Thanks, Bodoba. I think I should be able to get lots of fry here but then I don't really want to keep more black ranchus as they will require another separate container
  3. I've all your vids twice. That chewing motion is not normal to me but the good thing is, your fish is very enthusiastic trying to swallow. Btw what are you feeding him? Try 1/2 a very soft pea and compare, for an oranda this size he should be able to swallow a few peas in succession with difficulty. Are you able to inspect that hole and his mouth with a strong torch? I remembered you said his gills are ok (nice red color). For mouth inspection, it's very easy, just cub your fish gently in your palm of your left hand. With his head facing you, slowly bring him towards the surface (~at about 45 deg angle). Once his mouth is out or the water it will automatically opens, then shine torch and have a look. Don't raise him with his eyes/gills out of water as he will definitely struggles.
  4. Update on my baby ranchus.(from post# 73) Now first few days of Spring and these babies are starting to breed already but of course I won't be collecting their eggs.
  5. Looks like you've have some Aussie bush tuckers there.
  6. Nice Kazubo67 tvrs David. I hope to get some later this year and breed them too. Are you using some kinda sump filter there?
  7. Thanks all for your kind comments. These are all females, fully loaded with eggs waiting to explode anytime (last days of winter now) you may have notice their swimming are a bit awkward. Tank size is 150L (@water mark), Filter with power head 1000L/hr hidden in a partitioned filtration system with canna aqua clay pebbles (bottom layer), Jap mat, coarse and fine sponge (top) . w/c is 80-100% weekly (inclusive in winters) when doing 100%, I catch them out and put them into 160L tub (with overnight aged conditioned water) with aeration (just airstone) while I thoroughly clean the inside tank plus filter materials. Fill up water direct from tap, add conditioner, equalized temps (within 1 C) to 160L tub and return fish. Feeding: Always according to water temps. In general....below 10 deg C..., no feeding, 11-15 deg C... 2x, 16 deg C to 30 Deg C....up to 8x per day. Then towards the higher the temps, reduce feed or not feed at all once above 35C. (otherwise they'll likely to float, gulp, fall sick or even face death) First 2 vids during development stage, they were kept indoors fed 3x per day in winter, summer 8x per day in small quantities that they can finish in 1-2 mins. Last two vids, as they grow bigger I reduce their feeding to zero to 3x per day, sometimes I just drop pellets thru' a pepper mill to avoid overfeeding and make them move about and eat the carpet algae (like what you see in the last vid) This is important because at this stage they are very delicate, esp theses black ones and they should not be mixed with normal ranchus. I've tried many times before and all ended badly.I hope that helps. Lastly tank size is 30" (L) x 24" (W) x 15" (H)...water level is 14 inches.
  8. It's been a while since I last update them. They are still the same original 4 ranchus. Taken in Nov 2012 (pay attention to that one changing color) Taken in Aug 2013 (my apologies for not cleaning the front glass first...lol)
  9. I think your fishless cycling is going ok. there are several ways to this but since you've done a w/c it changes things a bit. What I'll do from here is to add some fish pellets(just a little) to feed your ammonia eating bbs and keep monitoring your nitrite level daily. When it touches zero (ammonia should be zero too) and nitrate should hit the roof then make a 100% w/c (remove fish pellets) and add water conditioner, then fish (one or two only) an hour later. No need to clean filters or scrub tank. From there onwards just feed sparring daily and watch the main parameters ammonia, nitrite and later PH weekly. W/cs as per normal. Cheers
  10. I am sorry Raechelle for creating a sidetrack to your post but I'm only trying to help. Have you been doing anything since? Incidentally my last suggestion is also practice by those koi people (just check it out on koi websites) and I believe there are merits to it otherwise why do they published it.
  11. If it's just warm then they will multiply like crazy. I'm not a scientist but I tend to agree that treatment using high temp plus salt will kill most bacteria as shown by the results from my past treatments, if only I can find that German research article on discus.
  12. Hi Schoolie, indeed this is a very nice lemon head, smooth curve, good headgrowth and funtan (buffalo cheeks). I share the same concern regarding the stomach, even from the ECR vid, it already has quite a girth around the stomach. Whether it's a boy or girl, do watch your feeding/swimming. Also that caudal fin missing portion, could be healing in progress or is still rotting away, can't really tell except to compare over a few days. I would q-tip it once with either HP or PP just to make sure. It's not serious but you don't want it to take hold. Cheers
  13. Thanks Tithra for your providing additional assurance for Raechelle. My methods may sound harsh and also shocking at times but these are all proven methods used by experts and I've adopted and practiced. Using high heat (86F) and salt 0.5% in conjunction to this treatment (also for bacterial related problems, ext & int.) is beneficial as it will kill most surface bacteria and help healing faster. Also Raechelle may not have fed enough Anti-Bac due to her concern about the poop. It's normal for sick fish to produce abnormal poop during treatment. Just for some reference, here is the blog of one of the masters that I greatly admire. http://www.goldfishartquatics.blogspot.sg/
  14. Somehow, your Anti-bac don't seems to be working. It has gone very large and I can see it's still very angry. Imo. surgery is not an option now. You have to try something drastic here. Leaving it like that also not an option. One last short. Can you raise salt to 0.5%? Do it at two intervals (0.25% each) over 12hrs (no time to add 0.1% every 12hrs). It's safe I usually do it at one go at 0.50%. Then raise temp to 86F with good aeration. (make sure water temp equalize during w/cs). If you have HP. PP, Iodine or any oilment for wounds just apply it with a q-tip twice a day for two days. Try this and post pic please. Good luck.
  15. Your fish poop seems fine to me, imo this is due to underfeeding and perhaps medication stress too. Just don't do any more Melafix (I don't see the need for it) and do more w/cs (~80% per week) I'm sure it will improve. I'm using the TTanked 1.5mm too, I usually do 4kg per order to bring down my cost to A$11.5/kg. This food is really good and I'm feeding my youngsters 6-8x pd directly without soaking.(small amounts that they can finish within 2 mins). Cheers
  16. Good, looks like there is improvement already. Those neons will end up as free meal at night.
  17. Hi Germanyt., I'm sorry to see your fish in such poor shape. There is still a chance to save these two if you can counter those ich and fin rot asap. Imo it is alot harder or almost ineffective to treat them in your main tank, you not only waste your effort but also on the cost of medicines too. What I'll do in your case is to do take both fish out and do a salt dip of 3% concentration (refer instruction at Treatment section), then place them on QT/treatment in a 10 gal (with both fish together, use only an air stone and no feeding for a few days). Administer those medications/salt that Alex has suggested. Need to do 100% w/c daily and add a new dose of medicine/salt. Don't worry 10 gal will handle 2 fish per day.(ammonia 0.5ppm max per day) Ps My choice of treatment to counter red fins/body or fin rot is to use PP bath but I know there are many people in this forum not comfortable with this but what's more important than saving your pets in an effective and quickest and proven way.
  18. If anti-bac is the only thing you got on hand, then I think you should start with it asap. Have you done a deep cleaning with HP on that wound yet? If will be beneficial to take out all the dead tissues with a Q-tip dipped into HP or Betadine or diluted Iodine. Do only once.
  19. 228kg lol, that's very funny, if so Dr. H will surely get gobble first . . job Helen.
  20. I find this rather confusing, when someone said HITH, I usually think they are referring to tropical fish like cichlid or the like. Those like Alex mentioned is a hexamita infection. For a goldfish with headgrowth we usually call it wen or head ulcer, very similar to body ulcer and the culprit is usually a form of fresh eating bacteria which are rather difficult to eradicate. I know in Thailand the fish farmers preferred surgery as first choice and they have 80% success. If you applied the wrong or ineffective technique the affected fish will slowly withered away and die. Tell tale will be bottom sitting first then float to top motionless.
  21. Opps, my bad. You guys got lots of options concerning using anti-bac medicines in baths like Oxolinic Acid powder for example. If nothing else is available as an emergency then no choice have to use Medi Gold or Anti- Bac Rx.
  22. That's really not good. Prolong treatment will make it worse and your fish will loose energy and become weaker. Wen ulcer are the most difficult to treat with food based medicine unlike other parts of their body. Are you brave enough to attempt surgery? just like a wen trimming surgery but need to go as deep as necessary. Just sedate, cut off all the rotted areas, apply hp and treat with that Anti-bacterial Rx. Wen tissues are easy to grow back. Better hurry and decide, not much time left. Good luck.
  23. Good, so you've finally decided to purchase one off the self. I always prefer to either build out of bricks or choose one of these formal ponds, you can always sell it off later if you change your mind. You should be able to get back at least half it's cost. http://www.tankmaster.com.au/mast_formal_ponds.asp
  24. Let the fun begin, once started there is no stopping. Please post your progress. Thanks, they are 9x6 inch, use for paving. I got them real cheap as seconds. I don't put a bar thru' them as it a low pond (3 course high only) and if I were to stagger (looks better) each one then I'll have to cut the first or last one on each row. Later during rendering, I'll put in a big radius on all the 4 internal corners to strengthen it further. No, that's non standard as this is my lazy way of doing things, as this is not my day job, I go for the simple effective way, like a cowboy tradesman... lol.
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