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Everything posted by Lionchu

  1. Sorry about those suggestions that may be too difficult for you to carry out. I also didn't know about those denture cream being so sticky that it can't be handle using fingers as I've no experience with them...Have to refer this back to Alex, it was his idea. From your description above regarding the hole (also from the vids), I think it's already in a early recovery stage (they can start to recover very quickly once the tissues are stabilized) This is another good sign when you said at the bottom of it is pink and white at the sides and also the top wen is starting to grow towards the hole. The main thing to watch here is, we don't want the bottom of the hole to be still active while the wen is covering up. So I think you should try to get some Kanaplex in there even if it's just a mixture (thick paste) with water without using the troublesome denture cream. Helen, Alex, what's your opinion on this?
  2. That's very good, just keep up with your w/cs and they will be fine.
  3. Your current gravel looks beautiful anyway, why want to change? If you were to switch to sand, you're also have to deal with more or less with he same issue. Furthermore if it's fine sand, during vacuuming those fine dust/debris will make your water very cloudy and also they may get into your pump's impeller. Bare bottom is better but not to say you must have that for gfs. For gravel so long you maintain it weekly and not fill up to a depth of more than 2 inches thick, you'll be alright.(too thick gravel makes it very hard and time consuming to clean) My low maintenance spare 200L graveled/planted tank. Anubias started with only one pot, now 6 yrs later, have never done any cleaning under it.
  4. Good job Cheryl. Jet doesn't look so bad. When you said the bottom of the hole is red, does it look raw/bleeds? Or just red around the center? A few pointers from my point of view. 1) when you are catching/holding...Just use your hand and palm him under his belly, his head facing you. He will struggle less or not at all depending whether his eyes/gills are out of water rather than to use a grip lock type of holding.(he will wiggles a lot and you may accidentally over squeezed him). 2) You should apply the mixture with your clean fingers and gently press the mixture to fill up the hole, Falling off in just after a few hours is no good. You have to keep on doing it to see whether it can stay in there for a day. 3) I don't know whether it's convenient for you by just picking him up from his tank and quickly apply the mixture rather than transfer him to another vessel? It should be a very quick process than takes less than a minute.(minus the mixture preparation part) I hope that helps. ATB
  5. Hey Cheryl,Please don't panic and rush into doing too many things at the same time. I think, buying and swapping tank thing can always wait. If you felt that the tank that Jet is in now too big,then you can always fill up half the water level or any level you like to make up say 10G. Also don't rinse tank with hot water, it may damage it's silicon, just rinse with household vinegar or bleach or even salt concentrate, What I would like you to do now is to focus on making the Kanaplex mix and apply onto the hole as quickly as possible. We'll have to assess the results later anyway, so please do not worry about whether he needs to be operated on. Applying the Kanaplex directly onto the wound is worth trying as you can see with LouiseAnn's fish using the Kenalog. Also in dealing with ulcers we have to throw in all options at once as sometimes even the best medicines don't work and we must have a back up plan. I've not used dental paste before,( but I've used PVA craft glue, super glue) so I think any brand of dental paste will do. What ratio also not important, just use your own judgement, more kanaplex the better of course and as thick as possible. I've already described how to do this earlier today. If you don't have anything to bind them now, just add a drop or two of water and mix some kanaplex and apply immediately. Please don't delay until tomorrow. Just relax, you're be alright. ATB Cheers PS.If you plan to use a heater , anything between 72 to 80 F is fine.
  6. That red cap is starting with fin rot as seen from those frayed edges on his tail. I think you've some kinda toxin in your system, it's definitely not caused by those coral chips you've put in and as a matter of fact, coral chips are good, it helps with your carbonate hardness which in turns stabilized your Ph. Since you've a Ph 6.0 from the tap you should be adding a couple teaspoon of Mckenzie's Bi-Carb Soda. You can get this from Coles or Wollies at the baking section. This will also bring up your Ph and there is no need to add Ph Up either. What you need to buy is a KH/GK water test kit (APi is a good brand). There are good instructions in there to help you with it's uses. I'm not a big fan of using Primafix, salt is a better alternative here. You should maintain it @0.3% that's 3gm per L of tank water. (200L= you'll need 600gm). You can buy a big 20 kg back of pool salt from Bunnings or BW for about $8.(it's Aussie salt). You need to maintain it at this concentration for at least two weeks or until your fish have fully recovered.(need to remove all plants first b4 salting) Btw have your ever done any vacuuming of your gravel when you do w/cs and how thick is your gravel bed? The problem with using gravels are, while it may looks nice but the downside is that it can caused a lot a problems if you have to medicate your tank. Some of this medicines residues may still be lurking somewhere underneath and can counter react with each other giving out a tank full of chemicals. From hindsight to me keeping everything simple is usually the better alternative as keeping goldfish is rather easy and fun. Good luck Cheers
  7. I use Quadrant 20L with lid from Reject Shop, cost only $7. I also place a few under full sun for a whole year without problem. The other one is Starmaid brand. http://www.starmaid.com.au/kitchen
  8. This is a good idea. The other thing then is that you can seal the hole with denture paste. Mix kanaplex first with some denture cream and then apply to the hole. The paste should stay there for hours and hours I think before melting away. Since post op has already been several days, normally it should be under control by now and regeneration of new tissue should also be in progress too but it's not. It shouldn't be red and bleeding now and to con't with the same procedure will not likely to end well. Using dental paste to add into the kanaplex mix is good idea. It's just like my Kenalog, very thick like refrigerated margarine. I don't think you'll need a syringe to do that . Just use your finger, dip into the k/mix and pick up a small amount and apply several times to fill up the hole. Use a bit of pressure to make sure it goes right to the bottom. While doing that, you should be holding your fish in your other hand with his head just above the water. It's very easy to do and should take less than a minute. You think you can do that Cheryl? It's a good idea too to move him to a small tank. It's easier to manage and also save you medicine, water etc.. along the way. I use 3 container sizes...3gal, 5 gal, 8gal to suit various fish sizes and rely on 100% w/cs and new medicine. (Sometimes I even have to do w/cs 2x per day). In general, clean water is very important during any treatment. Btw what's your water temperature for Jet?
  9. To be honest that wound does look a bit red. I'm not familiar with Kanaplex and it's uses as we don't have it here in Australia. I think before deciding to do another operation here which might freak out both the operators and fish, let's discussion our options here. Alex. can this kanaplex be mixed into a thick paste and apply directly to the wound? If yes, then I wound suggest first do a deep cleaning with a q-tip dip into HP (you most likely encounter some bleeding, that's ok) then apply the kanaplex paste, once or twice daily. How's that sound?
  10. Hang in there, he is better off in QT alone, I think he will be alright. Fish under treatment is usually a bit off and from what you've described (#216) and the vid, that's pretty normal bahaviour. All the best. cheers
  11. It's a healing process, those white tuffs are loose anyway and will eventually falls off making way for new growth to come thru'. The middle part will usually form last. It's still in the very early stage or recovery so not to worry. Just keep doing what you've done, you'll be alright. @ Alex, thanks for your suggestion to enlist Helen's help but I think I can do without those stuffs anyway. I came across a few of these cowboys already, they make everything looks cheap and then whack you with shipping costs. Don't worry I'll get around my problems even if I have to resort to some unorthodox methods.
  12. Hi LouiseAnn, please don't mistook me for telling you to stop medicating in 3-5 days time. I'm just hoping that he will improve a lot during that time. I'll let Alex tell you when to stop. Also, after filling up everything and ready to pay, I'm really disappointed to find that Guppy's Aquarium online charges $33 postage (even for one item) to ship over to the West. That's shocking! as other charge less than $10. I won't be buying anything from them.
  13. I'm glad they are of some help, I learnt from others too and also have developed some techniques out from my own practical experience, usually when I stumbled onto anything useful, I'll just past them on. It's good to know. Hopefully you should see a major improvement in 3-5 day's time but for the whole crater to close fully, it will take a bit longer.
  14. I agreed with Helen here. When I first look at that pic, my first impression was it looks good until I read you next post. You always have to compare with your previous picture or in your case, the last few days. It's very easy to get disoriented looking at it a few times a day...lol so please don't panic. If you were to compare with your first pic, the outer ring is rather pinkish, now turned wen color and that is a very good indication that it's under control. In the middle bit will usually recover a bit later. Tissues usually grow from the outer circle towards the middle, while in the middle may also appears to be shallower when new growth is coming thru'. Your heater is a great benefit there as it promote metabolism and medicine absorption. What you have to make sure is, don't let any infection set in again, esp. fungus. Do you have 0.3% salt in there? (please keep it there until you can see a near recovery).
  15. Just a thought, normally it's not advisable to feed a lot to fish under treatment otherwise you'll not only have bad water but also your fish will have to spend his energy digesting the food instead of recuperating. Maybe that's why he seems lethargic. I hope all end well.
  16. LouiseAnn, a big Thank You for providing this link. There are also Paraguard, Praziquantel, Metronidazole etc.. in there too. Now someone is really thinking in OZ by bring them in.
  17. QT( needs bigger size and filter) or rather treatment tank of 30L is perfect as you don't want to use any filters...why? ... It's more effective and have less complications. You can use heaters as it offer lots of benefits but do watch water temps closely when changing over. If I were to use heaters I normally set up 2 identical tubs set to the exact temps and I just swap fish over. Regarding stocking level and w/cs? I'm afraid that will be be easy to explain in a couple of paragraphs. You also have to consider your feeding regime and what you want to achieve? Are you happy with just having a nice tank with a few gfs and lots of decorations, plants, lightning etc...or you want to groom your fish big, nice and fat? or it's just fish that are surviving and not thriving. In general, where aquariums are concerned, bigger is usually better. The bigger the environment, the less volatile it will be with regards to water quality, temperature, and maintenance. A larger tank requires less regular maintenance than a smaller tank, and will allow you to keep more (or larger) fish. Many people are skeptical about the limitations on tank size for Goldfish because they go to pet stores and see 20 fish crammed into a 10 gallon water volume. What they don't realized is that the actual water volume is a lot more than 10 gallons. A typical chain store circulates water through all of their tanks from a central large tank...a common reservoir that is circulated through all of their display tanks. Unless you are doing the same in your home aquarium, you need to restrict the number of fish according to the size tank you have. Sometimes you see them cramp lots of fish too in a small tank without seeing any pipe connected outwards but what they don't tell you is their water changing regime. Anyway what every they do, they objective is just commercial and will try to keep all their stock alive and sell them quickly. They don't bother about growth rate and sometimes not even their well being. Nitrate is the main contributor in floating problems and anemic growth. If you feed a lot then you've to change a lot of water, this two go hand in hand. There is no other way effective way to remove nitrate other than thru' w/cs. Most western books/practice will tell you to do 20 % w/c per week. In Asia they practice large w/cs like what I've told you. I can't do links here as it not allow but you always Google and see your yourself. (you can try key words like Finnmod forum, Arofanatics Fish Forum, Site for GoldFish keepers) etc.. Let me show you with just a simple example, say your 5 gfs generate 20ppm of nitrate weekly. First week you do 20% w/c, theoretically your nitrate will drop to 16 ppm and if you were to do 80% w/c, then your nitrate will only be 4 ppm. Second week....29 ppm for 20 %w/cs and 5 ppm for doing 80% w/cs. ======== Fast forward to the 4th week. @20% w/cs your nitrate will be 61ppm after w/c and because I've recommended to do a 100% w/c monthly your nitrate level will zero and only be 25 ppm on both 3rd and 4th week. If you follow top view hobbyist, they do not use filters but with just an airstone or two and rely on 100% w/cs every 4-5 days to groom their fish.
  18. You've done a good job considering this is your first attempt. I think you should have cut a tag more but if you've already removed most of the bad tissues, it should be fine. From here onwards you've to keep your water very pristine. I think you should not have that artificial plant in there...lol.
  19. Please apply the Kenalog once a day for 3 days only. That's means you've started yesterday, last application should be on this Thursday. Frankly speaking this ulcer don't seems to be very aggressive since it has started more than 6 weeks ago. You must have also been doing something right to slowed it's progress but not enough to progress to a cure, maybe what you need is an antibiotics or something like Rommet TC. I've read your info on your first post. There are a few things that I would like to comment. 1) 20% water change weekly is definitely not enough......you'll need to do at least 80% (with fish inside)and once 100% (remove all fish and thoroughly clean tank but not the filter at the same time) per month. 2) Ehiem 2213 is too small for 150L with 5 fish. More suitable model is the professional 2224 , for goldfish more filtration is better. However you can still overcome this shortcoming by doing more w/cs and filter maintenance. 3) 5 fish in 150L is ok but you must do more w/cs in order to compensate otherwise it will spell trouble or at best your fish will have anemic growth. 4) water temp of 16 deg C...feed only once per day, don't overfeed. Back to your Tiger, what's the QT tank size he is in at the moment? You should be doing 100% w/cs per day if it's less than 30L capacity. Cheers
  20. Good job, I hope Jet will be on the road of recovery from here. Helen you are what Aussies call a Legend.
  21. Looks like surgery is not a good option here, as it already spread on top of his eye. Face/cheek ulcer usually spread sideways but it can also eat right thru' the bone too. It's good that you have already applied the Kenalog. It should adhered easily, if it falls quickly then just mix it a bit with water before applying it next time. Also need to apply with a bit of pressure to fill up the hole. In about 3 day's time you should know whether it works or not. White in the middle could be new tissue growth or even flesh eating fungus, most importantly it should not have a red ring (active rotting) around it. Anyway you should not be swapping it anymore, otherwise it'll just get bigger. Yes, ulcers are very difficult to deal with but not impossible to cure. Imo, you can leave salt @0.3% (not 3%) in there unless Alex think otherwise. Also don't worry about his stomach not being symmetrical for the time being, it's not life threatening. Good luck.
  22. Good luck, also don't be afraid to cut off those good tissues too if you have to, in order to get to the bad areas. Make sure blades are sharp before you proceed.
  23. Hi Louise and welcome to Kokos. Sorry to hear you're also battling with an ulcer fish. You should start a new thread at D&D if not, try using this for your fish. Kenalog in Orabase for mouth ulcers. You can get it from any chemist for about $12.
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