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Everything posted by Lionchu

  1. Those are not fungus on wen (dots too). During the cooler months they appear more than usual. It's part of their development and it's best not to do anything.
  2. What you are doing is one way if you are planning to have only a few fry. If you want more, the best way is to prepare a smaller tank or tub of about 20L, conditioned the water and place just an air stone and your diy breeding mop or plants like hornwarts or anacharis. Then you wait for the chasing to begin. When you see any chasing activity, immediately remove the pair and place them in the spawning tub. You can also use two males to one female inorder to get better fertilization. Move all fish back to main tank when they have spawned. After a couple of hours you have to make one big water change otherwise dirty water will enhance fungus on the eggs and drop water level to 4 inch.Water temp. should be between 20-26 C. At about 24hrs later, you see all fertilized eggs looking clear and unfertilized one, white. Start to remove the white ones with the air line tube and top up water. Depending on your water temp. they will start hatching from 3-5 days. Keeping the water very clean is the key to success. Also read the pinned articles on breeding. Cheers
  3. Definitely, get those beautiful Jap Ryukin and Orandas imports that you were considering before, what happened to them?
  4. Yes, I'm looking at a slightly different angle, like perhaps from a primary infection. (not for the treatment fry, of course) Amoxicillin is a broad spectrum bactericidal antibiotic. It is highly effective against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria. I've used it for presistant reoccurring finrot/fungus tails and fins b4.
  5. Opps....Anyway, please try that Paracide treatment again, just to be sure that there is nothing else bothering him externally. 100% w/cs should not be an issue but it can also meant some other underlying internal health problems too...remember that heading pointing upwards behavioral.
  6. Hi Amber, Have you try Amoxycilin? (script from GP only)
  7. I've just received a Pm from Alex and had a look at your last few posts. It looks like one of those rare cases where a new fish is just having trouble to settle down to it's new surroundings. In other words your environment may not be conducive enough for him. Can you move him back to the QT tub (with 20L of water) and con't with 3 treatments of Paracide (Trichlorfon, treat for 3 days with 100% w/c daily) and salt 0.1%. Let's see whether there is any improvement.
  8. Hi Frederica, indeed they are gorgeous under your care. You need more fish in your 200g.lol
  9. Two 100% w/cs per day is more than enough.
  10. Please refrain from feeding when fish is that sick, You'll only make matters worse.
  11. My advice is, learn to mix the PP solution correctly first and try a few baths with half the dosage...cannot stuff up on this. Also water should be stood overnight and not to use water conditioner otherwise PP will get deactivated of loose it's strength. Change the salt dosage during your next w/c. (medium salt will increase slime coat and makes treatment of Costia harder).
  12. Don't use PP, your fish may not be able to take it. You can easily get PP from Chemist Warehouse.
  13. That might not be possible for now as Helen has got her own bugs to scrape.lol Well, that salt dip has certainly taken a toll on him. I think he was in there a tad too long. It's not necessary to time out the whole 5 mins thing. Minimum is 30 sec and also each situation is different so judgement call is very important so as not to risk killing your fish. Once your fish has fainted for the 3rd time,you've to take him out immediately. I don't think those red veins or red blotches are life threatening, it could be some reaction to him being not well internally or Costia which can be treated with Paracide or a commercial brand from Aquarium Science called "Multi-Purpose". It contains Methylene Blue 4mg/ml, Acriflavine 2mg/ml and Malacite Green 0.4mg/ml but go go buying it yet. Just that you know. It's application is slightly different from your Tri-Sulfa. When treating with Paracide, reduce salt to 0.1% and treat for 3 days, then wait 2 days and we shall see. I'm more concerned with his head pointing upwards act.
  14. Thanks for the help! The QT tank is 40L. He has been acting floaty only when bottom sitting. He will let the current position him- even upright with the tail up. Fill up to half 20L is enough, if doing 100% w/c daily. I should be able to get acriflavine at a pharmacy. Does it matter whether it is powder or lotion? Either is fine but make sure know it's strength. In terms of filtering, better just to take it out now? Take it out Also, the metronidazole treatment of 14 days ends in two days, should I go ahead and finish those two days? Can stop now, 8 days more than enough. I'll be doing the salt dip tomorrow morning and then a water change afterwards. I'll keep salting to 0.2%. Only adding prime and a pH buffer to the water, so I'll keep up with the 100% changes You've the Trichlorfon from Aquamaster? If you use it for 3 days in a row (1/2 tab per 20L water) it can also replace the salt dip, just in case you may be having Costia.
  15. Hi guys, came as soon as I log in and have just finished reading from the beginning. To start off, I observed that this ryukin has some form of sbp (swim with head shaking and head occasional upright) as shown on first vid. Looks like you've already done the most appropriate treatments. What I would recommend is after the first salt dip, transfer him back to QT using the plastic tub, it's about 20L right? Then salt 0.2,. reduce airstone output (no filter please), feed only sinking food as much as he can eat within 3mins and do 100% w/c daily or twice daily if required. You have quite a good selection of medications there but I think what you should be using is Acriflavine, do you think you can get it? Please do not add anything else in the water beside. Prime. Try this, sometimes environment plays a very important part.
  16. I think my GP is suspicious but he owns the surgery and I knew him for 15yrs. So no problem there lol
  17. That's the one. How they can buy online and not in the country. I can't bring that one into Australia for sure. I've to ask how Helen get hers.
  18. LOL. Wango, see if you can talk a vet or MD into prescribing you some metronidazole. Vet very expensive, try GP better, just tell him you've got very swollen gums and your teeth are aching all over. lol.
  19. For floating issues, apart from bugs (esp Flukes) I think the environment/water are the most important factors.
  20. Jeff, the Metro-Meds actually does work, and work remarkably well. I've actually done with myself, and have assisted a number of others. Having said that, I am all for trying something that does not require having to medicate, and your method sounds very interesting. Let us know if you are able to do it, BBMJ. I agreed if it's bacteria/protozoan related. I've treat 2-3mths babies that flipped over with great success using this method...cost nothing as no medicine is the better medicine.lol
  21. Shhhh, I got my Metrogly and others thru' prescription too.
  22. I'm not sure that PP is even obtainable in the UK. Everything seems to be so difficult to get over there Huh? How about Amoxycilin, Tetracycline, Amaxicilin...any type of human antibiotics?
  23. I may have a solution for you, as this is my proven method and I kindly share this with you. Orandas are proned to eat from the surface that's why some of their food are made floating instead of sinking. It could be this fish has been used to eating from the surface and over the long term, he can become floaty and develops sbp. Assuming that you've already tackled all the bugs part, I would suggest you lower the water to about 5-6 inches and aided with only an air stone, then salt 0.2% and do w/cs 2x per day (once morn/night). Feed only frozen blood worm and nothing else. If he can tolerate the amount of food without showing his back above water then increase the fbw. Report back in about a few days time and we shall see. Forget about feeding medicated food it's unlikely to work. Try this first, you'll be surprised! Cheers
  24. Maybe a bit late now, PP baths may be the only choice left. I've treated this type of problem with PP and Metrogyl and it usually works within a week.
  25. Thanks, me too, maybe they can substitute the need of buying orandas. Haha, no not snail tracks, I made them to allow new algae growth for them to graze. Thanks. Thanks Koko, now it's in the middle of winter where night time temp is around 5 C but they still get very good appetite during the day....all piggies. I stop feeding them when water temp is below 10C for more than 1 day, so always have to watch weather forecast and read thermometers in tanks and ponds There are lots of Americans coming here to work, you can easily earn <A$100K up North in the mines, not digging..lol but mining related jobs, then you can also keep ranchus, any plans??? Thanks Susan, how's your pond's filter make over getting on? I saw your post at GK looking at using vocanic rocks. Thanks Frederica, have not seen you around lately, how are you?
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