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Everything posted by Lionchu

  1. Hi Mandy, perhaps I can help you with some suggestions here. I did encountered these problems before. In fact it's a very common one when comes to breeding. You have to get it right from the egg stage otherwise you will go round robin massive with fry deaths. Current treatment using Methylene Blue is effective against fungus but I'm afraid you may also have parasites contamination in your sponges too. You should l consider the following: 1) Remove all sponges at this stage and reintroduce later as your fry get bigger and more resilient to infections. 2) Change medicine to Multi Cure from Australian made Blue Planet. It has methylene Blue, Malachite Green and Aciflavine (common medicine for whitespots). This will give you a much wider coverage against parasites esp Flukes. 3)Normalyl we don't any filters when raising fry. Just an airstone will suffice. We rely on 100% w/cs every 3-4 days and scrub down and to keep everything pristine. 100% w/c daily can be stressful and can do more harm than good. 4) Splitting and red stomach is due to weakening tissues when they are sick and overeating (fry will eat like no tomorrow even they are sick) 5) Also to remove all fungus or unhealthy ones immediately and qt and treat separately. The chances are they may not pull through. 6) Another alternative method is to combine Prazi, Metronidazole and 0.2% salt and treat for at least a week. (my choice is Multi Cure or any medications that consist of the three ingredients) Cheers
  2. You can use this one, just add to gel food before feeding. Do not heat.
  3. If you feel that your fish is eating and recovering, don't change the treatment. Metro should be used for at least 7days to complete it's cycle otherwise you maybe creating resistance bugs for your fish.
  4. Looking positive, she is winning. Now try to entice her to eat some fbw daily, if she start to eat that means she is recovering. Do it close to your water change. Don't feed too much.
  5. Trisulfa is available at LFS but not Kanamycin or Erythromycin but you can order online API Emerythromycin powder online.
  6. Metronidazole, Metrogyl or Flagyl ...called differently but all the same.
  7. Spitting food is also a sign of gill flukes. No necessary to show yawning, flashing, red body, not eating or fins clamping and splits. Most of the time they don't show any sighs at all, just lethargic. I have that Internal Parasites too. It's more effect when use in gel food against internal protozoans for externally I preferred the good old Praziquantel powder.
  8. If you don't have any Metronidazole, you can get this medicine called HexEx ( its a dummy name for Demitridazole) from that Bannister LFS. Just tell them I send you.( it's only sold to regulars) Get that 25gm powder bottle, cost about A$25 I think. I just bought 50 gm a few days ago. This medicine is very effective against internal/external problems such your case, dropsy, ulcers etc.. It's a medicine that I recommend you stock. My last bottle dated 2009 still worked.
  9. Elaine, sorry to hear about your drama. how long have you got her? Did you do a complete QT and treated with prazi before you mixed them in the pond? Did you notice she has any difficulty in swimming prior to her spawning ordeal? (like swimming with head higher than tail, like a small motor boat) I'll speculate it could either be an internal bacteria infection (due to egg binding) or parasites (usually flukes at this time of the year, since food spitting) or even swim bladder problem.s ( common with females having difficulty in spawning) If after 5 days with your current treatment don't work, you'll require a different treatment. ATB
  10. Both parents are Sakurai Bloodline. Some from spawn 2 and 3
  11. Sorry I stuffed up somewhere. I am using Tapatalk to upload picture for the first time. Bear with me a little longer, I'll fix it soon
  12. Started some breeding awhile back. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/28/c1837799625859ca3f52487de3ac88e3.jpg[/img]
  13. Looks like you might be doing something not right if you keep having a zero return. Start with conditioned tap water as spring water is risky in the modern world. Also forget about using a broad spectrum antibiotic, fry cannot be so easily treated, prevention is the best alternative. Breeders usually dump the whole spawn if they are having problems like yours and start over. Breeding is fun and should be as easy as A B C. Now that you have understood the whole process, I think you'll do better next time. How Strong your fry will turn out also depends a lot on the parents. Don't be too quick to reach for medications on your main tanks. Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
  14. Hi Gg, sorry to hear that you are having trouble with your fry. Three weeks old are normally at a critical stage of development and can get sick very easily. Right now what you need is quick action if not you'll likely to lose most of them. First cull all those that already look crooked, those tiny ones, bent body, swollen gills( fungus like attachments) and those can't swim..eg sitting at bottom...they are goners I'm afraid. Then clean out your 5g with just water and remove the sponge filter ( you don't need that and besides it's also a source of contamination). Fill up to 50% capacity and add salt 0.3% .use airstone... No filter! Start one round of Prazi the next day. I am afraid you may also have some "good" ones starting to die but don't panic... Just remove them It'll take a couple of days before it can be brought until control. Do 100% w/cs daily and add back salt and Prazi accordingly. Feed sparingly if got appetite or purge if not I have just helped my friend stabilized his oranda fry four days ago. He did like what I mentioned but he used 0.5% salt. His fry are also three weeks old and much bigger. Good luck Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
  15. Still looking ok to me. I wouldn't do anything at the moment or not ever need to treat. That's normal on fish with head growth. Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
  16. Sounds ok from your description but from looking at your pic it warrants intervention. So I would say go ahead with the HP swap gently. Don't worry I do that all the time when I'm in doubt or suspicious. Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
  17. Just wrap a piece of small cotton over your existing cotton bud and dip into a generous amount of HP or PP and apply over it.(don't use any pressure) After, try to keep that area above water for at least 10 sec. I think no need to QT for now, wait for another day and report back please.
  18. I agreed that it's not the same as before. Wen growth is usually convex (can be lighter in color and look like jelly) and wen disintegration is either flat or concave and covered by white tuffs (fungus). Where as if any traces of red is present, its confirmed as an ulcer. What do you see? Had to say this again, your water is still cloudy. Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
  19. That's ok then. Why I mentioned this is because when water is cloudy your gfs will sooner or later succumb to all kinds of problems. Also try not to medicate a gravelled setup too for the very same reasons. If you suspect some contamination in there, remove all fish to a temporary holding then do a proper vacuuming and clean out your filter. Empty tank and fill up water without any water conditioner and let it run overnight. You can add the water conditioner before adding fish back. Your bio will be also depleted at this stage so do monitor your parameters and add some bio starter and feed sparring. Also if any gf has any issues in the future, just remove and treat in qt. When doing treatment on the whole tank half the battle is already and unnecessary medicine costs. I know some may not agree but this is my practice that works for me. Just my 5 cents that I thought I should share. Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
  20. Looks ok to me but how come your water is so cloudy? For a gravelled setup it should be crystal clear. Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
  21. That's very normal. Don't lose sleep over them Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
  22. I knew she had a belly full of eggs and have attempted to hand spawn gently but only a few eggs got out, so not wanting to cause any damage to her. I put her in a tvr type of basin with about only 7 L of water and air stone. A Qtr teaspoon of Epsom salt was added. First day did w/cs 3x because got lots of poop. Second day, apply the same thing with 2 w/cs and third day, wahlah eggs all expelled and put fish back to her home. Scraped off all eggs and fed to my other fry. No feeding during her treatment.
  23. Yes, but only to lfs. This ranchus made me worried for the past few days due to her humongous stomach. I thought it's a goner already but lucky she spawned this morning after several days of treatment for suspected egg binding, even with hand spawning failed.
  24. You are welcome. I am the same, I hate the culling part (killing part). When I first started I try not to cull based on just cosmetic but just only taking out the deformed ones but faced with many problems further down the track so now I have to do the inevitable to sustain this hobby. If you breed fish and not doing culling, you'll need lots of space. They can grow double in size in a matter of weeks. That means you've to double your container capacity too. Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
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