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    102L Oranda Tank

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  1. Whew, that your guy is also not 100% firm does help put my mind at ease! I’ve never had such a deep bodied fish before, so it’s nice to know he’s not alone I’d love to see the video, just to compare to be sure. I’ll give him a good poke in the morning- he thinks it’s great, he’s one of those fish who loves people and will get in your way while cleaning and feeding. But, I love your ryukin, he’s gorgeous with that real hump in his back and pointy face. How cute! I didn’t own him before this- I bought him at the end of January, but he was imported/cleared for sale around 3 months prior as I understand, so he’s been here 6 months-ish? Maybe longer if QT and importing took longer? The guys who own the shop are quite select and import a lot of ex-show fish for breeders and such who want good breeding stock (Of various species, not just goldies) at a reasonable price, and are very good at getting their background info right. I was warned right up that this boy was close to 7 and that’s why he was so discounted (they imported him specially for someone who wanted a yellow/black moor on the cheap, and they backed out of the sale. They had a hard time selling him after that due to age and damage and because he got ick on the trip over and looked pretty sad and sorry for awhile. Originally they had $100 on him, and I debated buying him but decided to think on it first, but he was listed at $50 when I went in next time, and they offered him to me for $35 because they just wanted to get rid of the poor old guy to somewhere nice. They know I have a soft spot for teles- even if he’s not a butterfly or my usual kind. So, I ended up with him in the end, and no regrets!) but, hopefully he’ll live another 7 years yet! He seems quite healthy, so I don’t see him going anywhere soon anyway. He’s still an impressive fish due to sheer size, and I get lots of compliments on him in person (my photography skills really are awful) but I wanted him primarily for colour and breeding reasons, so I’m ok with a bit of spawning damage. I think he’s been blind for a few years, and I think he’s knocked himself up a bit as a result (his eyes look like cataract city and with how he swims like a bulldozer I’ve had to make the tank super safe.) The matching girlie I got, Shadows, is much younger, she’s really only just developing her hump now, but she’s lovely too. Single anal fin though, but other than that she’s a great pick for potential spawning with him (she’s from yellow/black parents, though she’s kept her black so far). If I get a spawn from her and Chestnuts this year with some nice offspring, I’ll be super happy.
  2. Hi Narny! Long time no see. It seems I only jump on Kokos when I have a problem now. As far as I can tell it does spring back (didn't get a really good look at this though, will have to poke him again tomorrow at feeding time to check, but I didn't notice the dent staying and I think I would have if it did.), and feels soft rather than mushy, if that makes sense. But, it’s way softer and has much more give then the average fish. I’m hoping that because he’s just a huge fish (he has a LOT of stomach room for a male, he’s very tall, deep in the belly and wide, but now I’m concerned some of that may be swelling or fluid retention) and not something else. It’s still very odd though. His scales are perfectly flat and he’s 100% himself. I have noticed he is sometimes weird with his swimming (when pecking for food at the bottom sometimes flips over and such) but I think that’s just how he likes to move (He and the female are both very rough and tumble- push everything out of his way and flop over each other type fish) and not a balance thing. He’s certainly not any more off balance then half the fancies I’ve had anyway. Worth mentioning the colour change I guess just in case- He’s been undergoing a gradual colour change for many years (he’s from a yellow/black panda line where they slowly loose the black over many years. So is the female, but she hasn’t lost the black yet. That’s part of the reason I nabbed them up, it’s a colour I’ve been keen on for awhile but fish that have a gradual enough colour change to hold the black/yellow for years are uncommon). He’s also been shown in Singapore for a few years (with some minor success) so he could have been exposed to any number of things with transport and show tanks and such.
  3. Chestnuts (He came with the name) today (Awful picture sorry- No lights in the aquarium means my awful picture skills are worse then ever. Having just done a WC it's cloudy too.) A better photo from before my lights died (I'm still waiting for my order of new ones to arrive too, such a pain D:) My crummy photo skills don't do him any good. He's gorgeous, his body (excluding fins) is about the size of my fist. He's got flaws on his tail (bends to the lower fork, looks more like shipping damage then genetics though to me) and one of his eyes has been bashed in from spawning (according to the seller- he did show me photos from lasy year with symmetricial eyes so this is probably true), but otherwise for the price I paid for him ($35 AU, bargain of the year even consdering he is quite old. I also bought the female they have been spawinig him with too.) I'm very happy. It is worth noting that he is about 7 years old now though, was a previous spawner/producer fish, and was imported from singapore around 6 months ago. This may factor into his issues (Age and potential infections from overseas or being exposed to new pathogens here)
  4. I’m worrying over one of my newest fish. He’s a large male (has spawned and has stars) black moor with a ryukin build (demekin). I only noticed this in last weeks WC. It could have been like this when I got him, or started any time since, as I’ve never actually probed his belly before that. He seems 100% happy and healthy and himself, but his stomach is soft. I've never had a fish with a soft stomach (besides females for a few days coming up to and post spawn) before and it's kind of freaking me out. All I can think is that worst case situation it's an internal infection or infestation of some sort (nematodes?), but if his stomach is soft that would indicate (based on other people’s experience with internal infections and issues) that it's pretty far progressed and I'd expect fluid retention and/or dropsy and abnormal behaviour if so. On the other hand I guess it could be an issue with osmoregulation or something along those lines, which means it could get worse over time (if he is retaining fluid and that is why he is soft) The unusual thing is he is 100% happy and healthy. He’s a very large demekin moor, and I’ve had him for 3 months or so now. Naturally he has a very high back and deep stomach, being very ryukinish in his build, but even with fish with that build and large abdomens I’ve never experienced a male with a soft belly. I guess being male and lacking the larger female reproductive organs he could just have ‘spare room’ inside and that’s why he’s soft, but I doubt it. He also has odd eyes (not perfectly symetericial) which do have a slight ring at the base, but it does not seem like pop eye to me at all, just the same base of the eye many of my teles have had before. Having no idea what’s going on I thought I’d ask for suggestions. So far I’m leaning to a course of metromeds (or, being in Aus, making my own gel food with Flagyl/Metro and feeding that out) and trying to get some fecal samples and a microscope to do some slides and have a look. I think this will have limitations though (if it is something it would have to be in the intestinal tract to show in such a sample, ie something infecting the liver would probably not show) Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level (tank): 0 * Nitrite Level (tank): 0 * Nitrate level (Tank): 0-5 (fluctuates, live plants aid in absorption) * Ammonia Level (Tap): 1 * Nitrite Level (Tap): 0 * Nitrate level (Tap): 0 * Ph Level, (Tank) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines): 8 (hardness mid range) * Ph Level, (Tap) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines): 8 (hardness mid range- Sorry, my kit for GH and KH is strips and awful) * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?: API drops * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)?: Overhead sump, ceramic and sponge media (x4 p/h but a large amount of media- it’s a very effective filter that follows the principal of water-media contact time and not flowrate itself as the determiner for the effectiveness of the filter) * What kind of water additives or conditioners?: Prime, show master goldfish ‘salt’ electrolyte mix * Water temperature? 20*C but can get higher in summer * How often do you change the water and how much?: 70% every 5 days to a week * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change?: Today (3rd May) 70% * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?: 25Gal * How many fish in the tank and their size?: Two large moors (This is QT, hence smaller size. I QT for 3+ months on older, more expensive stock for safety’s sake now. Permanently I’d like to house them in at least 50+Gal together) * What do you feed your fish and how often?: NLS Sinking pellets, occasional blanched veggies, fed twice daily for these two. * Any new fish added to the tank?: No, these are new purchases (3 months ago and same source) and being QTed together * Any medications added to the tank?: No * List previous issues experienced (dropsy, SBD, etc.): Slight ick when bought, treated with salt * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus?: Soft belly, otherwise normal * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?: No * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank: were salted and prazi’d as per the general way done here upon arrival. Pictures incoming- Please bear with me. The lights in my tank have died and I'm waiting on replacements so good photos are hard to get! Not that theres anything really visually wrong with him anyway.
  5. Huh, that does make a lot more sense. I guess I assumed Ken was breeding some himself still. I recall he used to breed and sell orandas (Hence being Dandy Orandas) while also importing and selling at the same time. Thats a little bit sad, sometimes I think I would like to see a bit more of breeders buying, selling and trading within a country (Raingarden style) to keep this a feasible hobby for the small time breeders and keepers here, rather than the huge reliance on imports to feed the goldfish (and aquaria in general) hobby. I suppose it’s not as cost effective as imports though, as raising fish in the USA is more costly.
  6. I thought that goldfishconnection was a breeder selling fish. No? nope, they are imports... primarily from china I believe (some probably come from japanese and thai breeders as well, but I don't know) I was under the assumption the vast majority were Dandy Oranda fish. Pretty much all of the photos have had the DO watermark over the last few years.
  7. Thanks guys! I originally planned to bide my time and get one or two very nice fish, but I always seem to be a sucker for the ones needing a home. Either way, I?m very happy with how Mischa is turning out (she?s quite an impressive creature in real life, super friendly too) , and I think little weeny will grow to be a great moor regardless of her fins, as she has that beautiful tele body shape.
  8. My family has some shubunkins my Grandmother bred chilling in our ponds. She has been deceased for 10 years, and did not breed them for the last few years, so they are at least 11 or 12. I have a feeling this winter may be the last for some of them though, as age does seem to finally be catching up with a few of them. ): I’m sure I can get some photos off my phone if anyone is interested. They are big! She also had two orange/met Bristol shubu shaped fish (I think they may have been Bristol culls actually) that were around for years before I was born. They originally belonged to my aunt, but ended up in a huge tank in the hall next to the bookshelves. They would have been nearing 15 by the time they died. On the fancy side though, my oldest fancy is a plain jane fantail (Known jokingly as Hitler because she had a hitler stashe when when got her) who would be 4 or 5. I don’t think I’ve known a fancy who’s hit 10. ): She lives with the shubies. I think my mother’s sarasa comet pair would be the same age, maybe a bit older.
  9. Hi guys! Here is the new moor who just joined my (now overcrowded ) tank from QT. She was taken for cost price (See, like $2) from my favourite LFS because he was that bashed up from shipping that she was probably not going to make it through their QT procedures. Her siblings are currently on sale for a decent price, so I think she was a bargain anyway. Her fins are still crimpy (and I'm told are likely to stay that way), and one anal one tore and healed very strangly in a 'lump' of fin, but otherwise all her splits have healed and she's looking much happier. He just LOVES to follow Rico around all day. (Note, the moor is MUCH smaller then this makes him seem. He is up front where Mischa’s fin is, while Rico is way up the back in the rockwork) “OMG! I’m a fish!” ‘Weeny-fish’ Still needs a proper name, so feel free to suggest some! Weeny seems to be a girl, if that helps some! A few people have also been asking about Mischa, my other 'rescue' fish, the red oranda. Here is how she is going now! She is still a bit beat up, dorsal seems to be broken for good even 3 months later, but she is much better now. She also seems to be growing a hump ryukin style, rather then the smooth back she had before. It can be hard to show with the wen in the way, but see the pics below. At the moment as a result, she looks a bit awkward though! She's also full of eggs again, so extra fat. BEFORE (When first bought home) NOW! (3 months later) Note- No proper photos of Rico this time, sorry. He's as gorgeous as ever, though!
  10. She’s got quite long fins for a girl, very pretty! Can you locate her egg spot at all? I would just be curious for confirmation, as she reminds me a bit of a plakat male I had once. She doesn’t seem to be fat with eggs, which would otherwise be one possible explanation for the bump (as I said above in my last very incoherent 3am post ) as sometimes fighters can develop more eggs on one side then the other, but I don’t think this is an egg issue as it would typically present on both sides for stuff like eggbinding, infection, etc. Additionally, eggbinding wouldn’t grow, unless an infection was involved and pus was being produced, which would result in a soft feel to the bump. From what I can see, the bump seems to be located lower down then the ‘wing’ (narrow tip) of where the end of reproductive organs would be. It may quite possibly be located on or in the reproductive organ, but I think it is most likely in the body cavity underneath it, or attached to the bottom of it. It seems further down to her belly. If that is the case and it does not feel squishy or soft like fluid may be being retained (or an infection and puss is being created, etc), I would assume a tumour as mentioned above. However, you can try an Epsom bath if you think she can endure it (and remember, you can see her better than us! Maybe compare her to some photos of eggbound bettas to see if the visual symptoms match. Her behaviour and symptoms doesn’t in my experience, as my eggbound girls would go off their food and not be active at all, but as always, doing your own research can lead you to new discoveries and treatments we may not know. ) and suspect eggbinding. Other than that, my recommendation is palliative care, ie, making her as comfortable as possible. She may need to rest more, and she may need a lower water line or plants close to the surface to help her to reach her air.
  11. Alex, you gave me a heart attack. I thought someone had crammed koi into a tank! Nope, no pumps or equipment needed to make one of these, but only the vacuum caused by rigging it up! Actually helped fit a few of the spherical ones before (I personally think those ones are ugly, though I love the concept… I do like this one though!) If you want to see what makes this work in action, go to your sink for a second and fill it right up. Grab a cup and submerge it. Make sure it is full of water and all in the water. Now, pull it out with the open end down in the water. As long as the open end is completely submerged/under the waterline and no air can get in, you can pull it up and the water will stay in it. I can’t remember the exact name of the phenomenon (I’m sure someone will chime in with it though!) but it’s pretty cool and easy to do. If you had any large enough container and a way to mount it, you could do this with any pond or tank. Generally people use a stick or net to put floating pellets into it (putting them in through the pond), to encourage the fish to go into it.
  12. I agree that photos are needed, but assuming the lump is similar to the picture described, and located further own the body towards the tail as said, chances are it is a tumour or other growth along those lines (cyst, etc). Being that far down the body, it is too far away from the reproductive tract (In theory it could be in the tip of the end of it) to be an egg issue. Keep in mind I also assumed a male fish when writing, so ovaries were not a factor in my guess. On the reproductive tract, that is true. For elaboration, the ovaries of a betta are visible in pale specimens by candling (and can be found easily in autopsy) and do not extend down the body any further then the other organs. The liver extends further then the ovaries. They are larger than the males testes, yes, but located in an analogous position and not down the side of the body. They are located here. Full reprocustive system circled The reproductive tract ends at the start of the dorsal (if you drew a line down from it). If this issue is beyond the dorsal, my previous posts still stand (and may do so, even if it is on the front half of the fish). If this is a reproductive tract issue, it would likley be a growth on the tip (something also common in female bettas is tumors on the reprocuctive tract) anyway, as is common in females, in particular older ones. But due to the position (trying to work with the information given) if it is on the ovary, I still think it a tumour extending backwards and outwards is of a high possibility. Females also have all organs located in the same area as males. The ovaries are larger, yes, but the females organs do not extend down the side of the fish beyond the dorsal (in general), bar perhaps the liver, which does extend along the spine for a distance. Additionally, for egg issues to present as lopsided and causing balance issues is not common and is indicative of a deeper issue. However, knowing this fish is female, a photo is certainly needed. Some females can appear lopsided when full with eggs. However, that does not account for the swimming issues at all. ): I'm hoping Fang can use the above info to give us a rough localle of the bump if she can't get a photo up.
  13. Also, sorry, just saw the bit on Epsom. I do not reccoment Epsom for lumps, unless the lump is caused by fluid or retaining fluid (and in some cases this can be beneficial, ie, it could be a flow of white blood cells to the area). It’s a stressor to an already stressed fish, and it does not actually help with SBD, constipation (And can actually make that worse by removing remaining moisture from the blockage and making it harder for the fish to pass) or anything like that. If you can touch this fish without undue stress, feel the lump. Does it have the same ‘feel’ or mass as the rest of the fish? (Keep in mind fish are quite soft, so squishy/fleshy, but normal fish squishy to a bit hard) If so, don’t treat for fluid retention. Fluid or flesh holding excessive fluid will feel very soft and will be able to be moved around/redistributed (So can tumors, but they tend to keep their shape and bounce right back). It would also actually (like, 99% of the time) present as dropsy/raised scales, not like this.
  14. Here is a female with a large amount of eggs (looking like she swallowed a marble!) with her egg spot clearly visible. Bettas reproductive organs are concentrated in this area. (Image courtesy of BettaTalk)
  15. Do’h, for some reason I missed that this fish is female. I always assume males in bettas. However, I do not think this is eggs at all. In bettas, eggs are held close to the front of the fish (Not towards the tail end like in goldies) and will present as a bump, even on both sides, on the body area below and behind the gills. It will look like the female has a bump right behind her head/gills, on the lower part of her body. They may look like they swallowed small marble, in extreme cases! Female bettas release their eggs through the white spot located underneath/between their venteral/pelvic fins (smaller fins in front of the long, curtain like, anal fin), which are directly below the pectorals, also just behind the fish’s head. No part of a bettas reproductive organs reaches back beyond halfway, and certainly the ovaries are nowhere near the tail end of the fish, where this lump is located. Eggs (even when abnormal/causing issues) would typically also not put a betta fish off balance, cause sinking, or the other issues mentioned. I will put up a photo in a moment showing eggs in bettas. Given that this is further back on the fish (way further back, in fact, towards the tail), I don’t think eggs are a likely/plausible cause at all. ): Edit: In fact, the brain, heart, liver, kidneys, stomach (hence why I highly doubt this is constipation) and pretty much everything but the swimbladder of a betta is located in this area, before the anal fin starts (that long fin on the bottom). Beyond that it’s just muscle, spine, and the swimbladder, right to the base of the tail. In that area, an abnormal lump can’t really be much but a cyst or tumour. If this fish is having issues with balance and swimming, the lump is probably pushing on the swimbladder (which in bettas is a long thin organ following the spine down that end of the body).
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