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Everything posted by number20121

  1. This food doesn't come recommended by most. I'd rather a small fish than a floating one. Even Sharon the other day questioned if this site should begin telling people to avoid this food. Dandy Orandas and many others recommend Repashy Gel food. My teensy adult fish was not raised on this food, but my babies are and they're growing nicely. Again, maybe those Hikari foods have changed their formula but I never liked how they mostly consisted of grains. It's like feeding a dog or cat cheap food that is mostly grain based, just that Hikari is expensive. I had a lot more success with Omega One small sinking goldfish pellets, where the first three ingredients are fish based and only little bit of filler. Also feeding dried seaweed, frozen worms, cooked fish and shrimp and steamed vegetables. Still, of course, there are fish that just won't grow right. I had a few of those over the years, and that's just how it goes. It's genetics and what not. But if your fish appears to be happy and healthy otherwise, then he is probably fine. Just not....BIG.
  2. Now this is not a question - as this sub forum might suggest - but rather a statement which I am very excited about. I am not quite sure where to post it, because it concerns water quality, food fed, and of course the importance of maintenance. As you will find out quickly all my tanks are overstocked. This topic is NOT about advocating that over-stocking is fine. It is if you can deal with it but if you can keep goldfish without overstocking, then stick to NO overstocking. This is just my personal experience which involves over stocked goldfish. Anyway. Just recently I posted a topic about control testing the nitrate test of the API Freshwater Master Test Kit, because I keep getting 0 nitrate when testing my tanks. And for those newer ones of you who don't know my years of fish keeping: all of my tanks are stocked at about 200+% recommended capacity. However, instead of the 50% weekly water changes per 100% recommended capacity I do twice weekly 85% water changes - which is about triple water changing compared to normal standards. I keep all tanks bare bottom with a decent amount of anubias, and on average 15x filtration. Filters are cleaned out every couple months but I try to not do all of one tank in one go, but do one of each tank every other week etc. So to get back to that topic I had posted about how to control test my nitrate test, I ended up stuffing a hand full of basic potting soil into a stocking and letting it soak in a cup of spring water for 12 hours, after which I then ran the water through a coffee filter to remove most of the soil, and then tested it. Below is the comparison between my 55g with currently 8 fish between 5 and 11 inches length - all single tails - where the last water change happened four days before the testing. The fish were not starved; they were fed twice daily with once pellets and once dried seaweed. I do wonder if feeding the seaweed - which is actually quite high in protein and makes a great main food for these fish - is part of the reason why less nitrate is the end product. With it being in a way so much more natural than feeding them food that contains grains and additives, although obviously not a native food source to wild goldfish, it also has improved the color on some of the fish a lot. But maybe it causes them to produce less ammonia as waste product, which in the end means less nitrate. Also I keep a lot of shubunkins and "sakuras" and can really tell when the white heads and fin bases turn yellow from the sea weed. But ever since I started making this about half of their main diet, I also have less floating issues in those food sensitive, improved growth and color, and now apparently better water quality. The picture below shows the test result of my tank/s (the same for all of them) on the left vs the deep red result of the potting soil water on the right. Years ago I would used to get 20-40ppm between those water changes with "only" 5 fish in a 55g but ever since I changed the food a couple years back, the test result has gotten pale golden yellow showing 0 nitrate. And also to put this out there, it is the same result in all my 6 tanks. Almost all of them are by Koko's standard quite overstocked. Not that those standards are wrong, because they are awesome. I only have them overstocked because I could not find good enough homes for my home bred fish and decided that they would be better off in my extreme care than handing them over to some shady pet store.
  3. I personally love Omega One small sinking Goldfish pellets. Simply based on the ingredient list, where only one of the four first ingredients is a grain: Ingredients Whole Salmon, Whole Herring, Whole Shrimp, Wheat Flour, Wheat Gluten, Fresh Kelp Lecithin, Astaxanthin, L-Ascorbyl-2-Phosphate (Source Of Vitamin C), Natural And Artificial Colors, Vitamin A Acetate, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Vitamin E Supplement, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Riboflavin, Niacin, Pantothenic Acid, Folic Acid, Biotin, Inositol, Tocopherol (Preservative), Ethoxyquin (Preservative). It's not very expensive and almost every pet store carries it. I have been feeding this for way over seven years and it is one of the foods that only my most food sensitive fish would show floating issues after eating. This, combined with high protein seaweed, some frozen worms and shrimp, and steamed vegetables is the diet they are currently on.
  4. Mine are like that too. They just love to drink from those tanks or tubs that aren't covered. I assume it has to do with cats' general preference for flowing water as drink source rather than water that just sits in a bowl.
  5. I had the same problems mentioned above when I still had gravel. Even with weekly thorough vacuuming - as in draining 85% of a 55 gallon tank entirely by vacuuming the gravel - it would still end up with a lot of crud in it. Most of my tanks are now bare bottom with large river rocks in them. Only one of the tanks has a couple hand fulls of gravel left over. As far as painting a bare bottom tank goes... I wouldn't do it. Not if you tend to like to change up the look. I usually neatly tape big pieces of paper onto the back of the tank. Not the ones that are made for aquariums, but I get those nice big rolls at craft stores, or you may even find some interesting gift-wrapping paper. Eventually it will get a bit messed up - either by getting wet or by getting crinkled or torn when I remove and replace the HOB filters for filter maintenance - but it is cheap and easy to replace, and you can always change up the look of it - either a solid color or a nice pattern. Just keep in mind that you do want to wipe down the bottom of a bare bottom regularly, and move any decorations to loosen the little bit of waste that might get caught underneath.
  6. Yeah if that doesn't give me a deep red example then I don't know what will
  7. Oh that's a good idea. Why didn't I think of that myself... duh. I'll give it a try, thanks guys!
  8. What is a great source of nitrate to test if your API freshwater master test kit nitrate test is working? I recently finally got a new test kit again (expiration date late 2018) and every singe tank I test, shows 0ppm nitrate. Yes, I do follow the instructions although I am well familiar with them after nearly a decade. I do a hella maintenance but 0ppm all across the boards seems a bit too good to me. I wonder if there is something wrong with the test, so I would like to test something that definitely should have some nitrate reading in it? What would be a good source for this?
  9. The spots actually returned within 4-5 days after removing the salt. They are mainly located around her gills and head/"neck" area as well as the very base of her pectoral fins. Kind of what you'd consider to be the armpit in mammals, if you were to compare. It just still gets me how normal she acts. She is very active and hungry and everything else you expect from a healthy goldfish. But these slightly rough looking, pinhead sized, blood red sore spots just aren't normal. And again, none of the other two dozen fish has any problems. All my equipment is shared between the tanks because I simply do not have the means to have six different 25' garden hoses, gravel vacs, food containers, water sources etc etc to use on all my tanks. This is just so mind boggling.... I think the next thing I will try - as I have not gotten silver yet - is a PP bath.
  10. He is beautiful! However, and maybe it's just the photos, I am not quite sure that he is actually a veiltail. Rather looks like a ribbontail to me. Either way a stunning fish! The red is a bit too prominent for my liking though. It may be nothing, but it might be worth to start a topic in the Diagnosis & Discussion sub forum. Sometimes it's the little things one person overlooks that are figured out by someone else.
  11. I agree with Sharon. This is the same behavior I see time and time again when for one reason or another I rotate my fish around. It even happens when an older fish was in QT for a few weeks and put back into the original tank, and some of the former tank mates may "hassle" the "new" fish for a little while. Some nipping as you described may occur, and a tear in a fin is unfortunately not unusual. At the most I have seen this going on for a couple days, but perhaps you should follow the advice to use a temporary divider, so the fish can see and smell each other without getting too pushy.
  12. He is, isn't he?! Thank you!! Yeah that anubias tree has been around for years and started from a single small barteri tied to the wood. It has grown all over it after a few years and makes a great center piece for a small tank. Kuro loves to sleep on the leaves in the center of the plant I thought so too! Thanks!
  13. A few weeks back I was shopping at Ollie's (a discount store similar to Big Lots) where they had a couple Tetra cube kits for $ 19.99. 3 gallon tank with lid, LED light and a small air pump based filter. Not having had a betta in quite a while, I decided to grab one of these kits, set it up with some of my anubias and use ceramic rings of one of my established tanks. Now this past Monday I went to Petsmart to get some Prime, when I came across the most beautiful betta. For some reason they had some really high quality fish, a very small number of them, and they were in the $ 20 - 25 price range - much more expensive than what they normally carry. I had a bit of a hard time deciding between two of the - but eventually picked this one because I dig black fish. Obviously he is not all black, but his sides are this amazing metallic similar to dragon scale bettas, and they shimmer - depending on the light and angle - silver to metallic pale green. The tissue between the rays of his fin is lavender colored with black dots. He is still a bit shy, but has a lot of attitude.
  14. Update so far: I haven't gotten around to buying silver yet, but the extended .3% salt bath with an additional salt dip has gotten rid of the red spots. She is still in QT, now without salt, checking to see if they return.
  15. Thanks dear! But just so I understand, what is this actually good for and what does it do? Simply so I understand the correlations between assumed problem and suggested treatment! Is this supposed to happen daily for 2 weeks?
  16. Goldfish generally are fine as long as the surface of their water doesn't freeze over. 55F is not bad at all. You have similar weather to me, and although I do not have any outdoor fish, there are several goldfish ponds in town and they all do well outdoors all year long. I'm only one state over in SC btw. How big is your pond? If you are that worried, I wonder if you could use a couple heaters to keep the pond temperature from dropping too far - although "too far" is kind of unlikely in Atlanta. As long as you make sure the water surface stays agitated enough to not freeze over, you "should" be fine, even with younger fish. EDIT, specs on the size of the pond? Width, depth, volume?
  17. My best main food is actually plain old Omega One small sinking goldfish pellets, which you will get at many pet stores. I like that the main ingredients are FISH, and wheat/corn/gluten etc is only one of the lesser ingredients, vs some other big brands like Hikari etc that have wheat or dried bakery product etc as one of their main ingredients. Even with my food sensitive fish it doesn't cause severe floating issues like those other pellets. This makes about 40% of their diet, the other 40% is BASIC sushi nori dried seaweed. High protein, all natural, high fiber, minerals, vitamins etc. Just a bit on the messier side when feeding.
  18. Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank) 0 * Nitrite Level(Tank) 0 * Nitrate level(Tank) < 20ppm * Ammonia Level(Tap) 0 * Nitrite Level(Tap) 0 * Nitrate level(Tap) 0 * Ph Level, Tank (If p ossible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.5 * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.3 Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API freshwater master test kit * Water temperature? 72F * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 55g 7.5 years * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? 2 Tetra whispers EX70 at 320gph each and one internal top fin 40 running at 170gph - 810gph on 3 filters total for a 55g * How often do you change the water and how much? Twice weekly 85% * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Today 100% *Qt tank* * How many fish in the tank and their size? main tank 5 between 3 and 6" BODY length, all of them single tails so less body mass * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Seachem Prime as standard * What do you feed your fish and how often? 2-4 times daily a variety of Omega One small sinking goldfish pellets, sushi nori seaweed, frozen foods such as blood worms or fresh frozen chopped fish or shrimp, steamed vegetables like cucumber, zucchini, kale, romaine lettuce * Any new fish added to the tank? not in many years * Any medications added to the tank? not to main tank. QT as follows * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Prazi, salt, metro meds during the years of her life. Can't recall all the times. * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus?Weird bloody red spots all over her body, concentrated near her head * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Nope So I have had Hugo for a very long time. She is my oldest fish and about 8 years old. About three months ago she went through a bout of dropsy but with QT and meds she recovered. But ever since the she is having these weird red bloody spots on her body, mainly focused towards the front half of her. She behaves perfectly fine. I put her in a 10g QT with 0.3% salt and double prazi and regular melafix but she still is having these weird spots. Her QT tank is completely bare except for the filter. None of the other fish that were with her in the main tank are displaying any of these weird spots. I just don't know what to do. She is active and hungry and hates the tiny QT tank since she is about 11" total and just going in circles back and forth in there like a tiger in a tiny cage. I got a variety of meds at hand but I don't know what this is. Pics below. The spots are very superficial, like they are just below the slime coat. She has had these for a month now. Initially I thought they might perhaps be bruises from breeding frenzies or similar, but now being isolates in a bare tank it makes no sense. I got metronidazole, kanaplex, amoxicillin, melafix, and salt and epsom salt available right now. She was treated with a combo of metro and kana during the dropsy bout last time as mentioned above. Pics: And in this one I circled the red spots visible in the picture
  19. I don't think it matters. Whatever they don't consume within a minute will start flaking and drift through the tank, which is why I made it a habit to simply turn the switch on the power strips to those tanks, so the fish can eat while the filters are off. Filters are fine for a few hours at a time without power. As long as the media is wet, you have plenty of time. Just like your dog or cat won't starve to death if you withhold the food for a few hours past their dinner time. I've been turning the filters off for about 30-45 minutes during seaweed feeding time every day for the last year, without any ill effect. As a matter of fact, I have grown more confident with the filters being turned off for hours at a time due to the frequent power outages in my neighborhood, but that's going to be a whole different topic.
  20. I just want to share my experience with this, as I have been using it as one of my staples for the last 18 months. The plain dried or roasted nori seaweed sheets make some terrific food for goldfish. Mine love it. When you feed it regularly their color improves significantly, it is very nutritional (high in protein, fiber, vitamins and minerals) and it does not cause any floating in any of my food sensitive fish who will start floating even on high quality pellets. Dried nori sheets have come to be about 40% of my fishes's staple food. I buy it in "bulk" online. Bulk here means about 100 sheets for around $ 10, but this will easily last for half a year or more with the nearly two dozen fish I got. Funnily enough this also is the only vegetable that even Cid Highwind, my "charming" butthole of an angelfish, will readily consume. Even my one remaining black neon tetra likes to eat it. Half of a regular size of nori, (which is about 1/3 the size of legal letter size), will feed 20 fish easily. It might be misleading because it is so thin and super lightweight, but keep in mind that it is fully dehydrated and as soon as it hits the water it will soak up moisture and multiply in volume, becoming something similar in volume and weight to wilted lettuce. It DOES absolutely have the tendency to dirty up your tank or filter media if you feed too much of this in one go. Initially when I started using this I fed way too much, like half a sheet to 6 fish and a couple weeks later my filter media was a completely gross mess of leftover food. Like it was literally covered in an almost black mess of gunk. So make sure to only feed enough that they can eat within 30 minutes with the filters turned off. The thing is that once the dried nori sheet absorbs water, it will start thickening yet it will also deteriorate and flake very quickly, from anything between thumbnail size pieces to pinhead sized flakes. So I ended up turning off the power strips the filters are attached to for an hour when I feed this stuff, just so half of it does not get sucked up by the filters, and feed only a 4x4" (10x10cm) piece per 6 fish. That fit in perfectly with my feeding routine, feeding this in the evening and setting a kitchen timer for 60 minutes to know when to turn the filters back on. Still, literally all of my fish - including both plecos - love this stuff. And yes, it probably is a bit more on the salty side compared to a cucumber, but so are brine shrimp. Yet considered how little you feed and how quickly it absorbs the water (and dilutes), I have not had any problems with this at all in all this time. Another thing I love about it is that if you keep it sealed in a plastic zipper bag with no humidity or other moisture, this stuff lasts for a very long time. And just to put this out there: as said 40% of my fishes's diet is nori seaweed, another 40% is Omega One small sinking goldfish pellets (even for the 5 tropicals), and the remaining 20% is made up of duck weed, frozen foods such as blood worms or mysis shrimp or brine shrimp, as well as steamed vegetables like zucchini, cucumber, kale and lettuce, and the occasional chopped up/flaked, cooked shrimp or fish. Yet the nori sheets - as most seaweed / sea vegetables - are way higher in protein than land vegetables. I read this stuff is as high in protein as legumes. So if your fish are sensitive to prepared foods (pellets, flakes etc) then this stuff might be the right food to provide them with protein and vegetables at the same time. As a matter of fact, the food sensitive fish float less even when I feed them pellets, if I keep their diet balanced well with nori. And I have had some that would react with floating for 4 years before I started them on nori. My oldest one, Hugo, who will be 8 years old soon and tends to be floaty on high quality pellets for more than half her life, does not have any problems when eating the seaweed. Another thing I find important about feeding this is that it keeps the fish more entertained and active while eating. While floating pellets stay at the top, and sinking pellets sink down, the seaweed - after it absorbs enough water (generally within 1 minute) and the first fish starting to yank on it, will break down into a bunch of smaller bits which will mostly stay suspended if you have a bubbler on; making the fish be active and swim around and forage all over the tank for quite a while. Last but not least, I just recently got in another pack of this, with about 50+ sheets left as of right now (which each, again, will provide a good 30 servings for one medium sized fish because a 2-thumbnail sized piece is enough for one medium fish). So if you want to try this as part of your fish's diet, but not want to spent 15 bucks online without knowing if your fish will do well on it - PM me and I will mail you 1 sheet for free so you can give it a try. And again, this is an especially great PART OF THE DIET (not 100% diet!!!! ) for fish who tend to develop food related floating. Make sure you provide a varied diet to your finned babies.
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