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  1. This food doesn't come recommended by most. I'd rather a small fish than a floating one. Even Sharon the other day questioned if this site should begin telling people to avoid this food. Dandy Orandas and many others recommend Repashy Gel food. My teensy adult fish was not raised on this food, but my babies are and they're growing nicely. Again, maybe those Hikari foods have changed their formula but I never liked how they mostly consisted of grains. It's like feeding a dog or cat cheap food that is mostly grain based, just that Hikari is expensive. I had a lot more success with Omega One small sinking goldfish pellets, where the first three ingredients are fish based and only little bit of filler. Also feeding dried seaweed, frozen worms, cooked fish and shrimp and steamed vegetables. Still, of course, there are fish that just won't grow right. I had a few of those over the years, and that's just how it goes. It's genetics and what not. But if your fish appears to be happy and healthy otherwise, then he is probably fine. Just not....BIG.
  2. Now this is not a question - as this sub forum might suggest - but rather a statement which I am very excited about. I am not quite sure where to post it, because it concerns water quality, food fed, and of course the importance of maintenance. As you will find out quickly all my tanks are overstocked. This topic is NOT about advocating that over-stocking is fine. It is if you can deal with it but if you can keep goldfish without overstocking, then stick to NO overstocking. This is just my personal experience which involves over stocked goldfish. Anyway. Just recently I posted a topic about control testing the nitrate test of the API Freshwater Master Test Kit, because I keep getting 0 nitrate when testing my tanks. And for those newer ones of you who don't know my years of fish keeping: all of my tanks are stocked at about 200+% recommended capacity. However, instead of the 50% weekly water changes per 100% recommended capacity I do twice weekly 85% water changes - which is about triple water changing compared to normal standards. I keep all tanks bare bottom with a decent amount of anubias, and on average 15x filtration. Filters are cleaned out every couple months but I try to not do all of one tank in one go, but do one of each tank every other week etc. So to get back to that topic I had posted about how to control test my nitrate test, I ended up stuffing a hand full of basic potting soil into a stocking and letting it soak in a cup of spring water for 12 hours, after which I then ran the water through a coffee filter to remove most of the soil, and then tested it. Below is the comparison between my 55g with currently 8 fish between 5 and 11 inches length - all single tails - where the last water change happened four days before the testing. The fish were not starved; they were fed twice daily with once pellets and once dried seaweed. I do wonder if feeding the seaweed - which is actually quite high in protein and makes a great main food for these fish - is part of the reason why less nitrate is the end product. With it being in a way so much more natural than feeding them food that contains grains and additives, although obviously not a native food source to wild goldfish, it also has improved the color on some of the fish a lot. But maybe it causes them to produce less ammonia as waste product, which in the end means less nitrate. Also I keep a lot of shubunkins and "sakuras" and can really tell when the white heads and fin bases turn yellow from the sea weed. But ever since I started making this about half of their main diet, I also have less floating issues in those food sensitive, improved growth and color, and now apparently better water quality. The picture below shows the test result of my tank/s (the same for all of them) on the left vs the deep red result of the potting soil water on the right. Years ago I would used to get 20-40ppm between those water changes with "only" 5 fish in a 55g but ever since I changed the food a couple years back, the test result has gotten pale golden yellow showing 0 nitrate. And also to put this out there, it is the same result in all my 6 tanks. Almost all of them are by Koko's standard quite overstocked. Not that those standards are wrong, because they are awesome. I only have them overstocked because I could not find good enough homes for my home bred fish and decided that they would be better off in my extreme care than handing them over to some shady pet store.
  3. I personally love Omega One small sinking Goldfish pellets. Simply based on the ingredient list, where only one of the four first ingredients is a grain: Ingredients Whole Salmon, Whole Herring, Whole Shrimp, Wheat Flour, Wheat Gluten, Fresh Kelp Lecithin, Astaxanthin, L-Ascorbyl-2-Phosphate (Source Of Vitamin C), Natural And Artificial Colors, Vitamin A Acetate, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Vitamin E Supplement, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Riboflavin, Niacin, Pantothenic Acid, Folic Acid, Biotin, Inositol, Tocopherol (Preservative), Ethoxyquin (Preservative). It's not very expensive and almost every pet store carries it. I have been feeding this for way over seven years and it is one of the foods that only my most food sensitive fish would show floating issues after eating. This, combined with high protein seaweed, some frozen worms and shrimp, and steamed vegetables is the diet they are currently on.
  4. Mine are like that too. They just love to drink from those tanks or tubs that aren't covered. I assume it has to do with cats' general preference for flowing water as drink source rather than water that just sits in a bowl.
  5. I had the same problems mentioned above when I still had gravel. Even with weekly thorough vacuuming - as in draining 85% of a 55 gallon tank entirely by vacuuming the gravel - it would still end up with a lot of crud in it. Most of my tanks are now bare bottom with large river rocks in them. Only one of the tanks has a couple hand fulls of gravel left over. As far as painting a bare bottom tank goes... I wouldn't do it. Not if you tend to like to change up the look. I usually neatly tape big pieces of paper onto the back of the tank. Not the ones that are made for aquariums, but I get those nice big rolls at craft stores, or you may even find some interesting gift-wrapping paper. Eventually it will get a bit messed up - either by getting wet or by getting crinkled or torn when I remove and replace the HOB filters for filter maintenance - but it is cheap and easy to replace, and you can always change up the look of it - either a solid color or a nice pattern. Just keep in mind that you do want to wipe down the bottom of a bare bottom regularly, and move any decorations to loosen the little bit of waste that might get caught underneath.
  6. Yeah if that doesn't give me a deep red example then I don't know what will
  7. Oh that's a good idea. Why didn't I think of that myself... duh. I'll give it a try, thanks guys!
  8. What is a great source of nitrate to test if your API freshwater master test kit nitrate test is working? I recently finally got a new test kit again (expiration date late 2018) and every singe tank I test, shows 0ppm nitrate. Yes, I do follow the instructions although I am well familiar with them after nearly a decade. I do a hella maintenance but 0ppm all across the boards seems a bit too good to me. I wonder if there is something wrong with the test, so I would like to test something that definitely should have some nitrate reading in it? What would be a good source for this?
  9. The spots actually returned within 4-5 days after removing the salt. They are mainly located around her gills and head/"neck" area as well as the very base of her pectoral fins. Kind of what you'd consider to be the armpit in mammals, if you were to compare. It just still gets me how normal she acts. She is very active and hungry and everything else you expect from a healthy goldfish. But these slightly rough looking, pinhead sized, blood red sore spots just aren't normal. And again, none of the other two dozen fish has any problems. All my equipment is shared between the tanks because I simply do not have the means to have six different 25' garden hoses, gravel vacs, food containers, water sources etc etc to use on all my tanks. This is just so mind boggling.... I think the next thing I will try - as I have not gotten silver yet - is a PP bath.
  10. He is beautiful! However, and maybe it's just the photos, I am not quite sure that he is actually a veiltail. Rather looks like a ribbontail to me. Either way a stunning fish! The red is a bit too prominent for my liking though. It may be nothing, but it might be worth to start a topic in the Diagnosis & Discussion sub forum. Sometimes it's the little things one person overlooks that are figured out by someone else.
  11. I agree with Sharon. This is the same behavior I see time and time again when for one reason or another I rotate my fish around. It even happens when an older fish was in QT for a few weeks and put back into the original tank, and some of the former tank mates may "hassle" the "new" fish for a little while. Some nipping as you described may occur, and a tear in a fin is unfortunately not unusual. At the most I have seen this going on for a couple days, but perhaps you should follow the advice to use a temporary divider, so the fish can see and smell each other without getting too pushy.
  12. He is, isn't he?! Thank you!! Yeah that anubias tree has been around for years and started from a single small barteri tied to the wood. It has grown all over it after a few years and makes a great center piece for a small tank. Kuro loves to sleep on the leaves in the center of the plant I thought so too! Thanks!
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