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Posts posted by Lupin

  1. Hi Hailey,

    If at all possible, please buy your own test kit. API liquid test kit is best. If you need to ask your petstore to test for you, have them use the liquid kits and write down the exact results. Preferably, just buy your own kit so you can constantly monitor the quality. Exact results are very important so we can figure out what went wrong exactly. This may determine whether water quality contributed to the issue or not.

    How often do you vacuum your substrate?

    How does Angel's poop look? White and stringy? Normal brown or green (depending on the foods it ate)?

    What dechlorinator do you use?

    Are you using tap or well water?

    I'm biased with Melafix. I don't advocate its use preferring to use sodium chloride as a means to resolve mildly infected injuries and other bacterial infections. The advanced stages of infections may require antibiotics (and Melafix is not one of them nor will be one of them). Luckily, you will not need antibiotics judging from the details you posted.

    At this point, since we do not know your water parameters yet, you may have to try doing daily water changes as much as 40% until you get the water parameter readings.

    Since you have salt with you, do add a teaspoon per gallon. It is possible for nitrite to contribute to Angel's issue. The salt will neutralize its toxic effects. Be sure to dissolve the salt first before adding. Make sure it does NOT contain yellow prussiate of soda (YPS) which is toxic to fish. Rock salt, pickling salt or aquarium salt will work just fine.

    On long term basis, I would not add the salt continuously. This situation calls for one but once Angel recovers, it's time to pull it out completely.

    My other concern is how you describe Angel shaking his head. Has he been treated with anything before? If so, which meds were previously used? I'm amazed that after 7 years, he just started going sick. With that length of time, I do not think parasites would be responsible. They would have shown up before that. Perhaps this has really something to do with your water quality more than anything else. Hopefully, it's simply water quality issue which we can easily correct.

    Keep water well aerated as well since the salt can reduce oxygen levels. And once you have the heater and thermometer, keep temperature consistently at 76 degrees Fahrenheit.

    Lastly, it's a good idea to either vacuum the gravel thoroughly or just stick to plain barebottom setup. I keep all my goldfish tanks barebottom and it makes it easier for me to maintain cleanliness as the poop is easily vacuumed out. It's up to you though how you want your tank to look at. If BB doesn't suit you, you could ideally add some plants confined in clay pots with gravel to inject a bit more detail in the bare setup.:D

    Hope this helps.

  2. 68 degrees is a tad cold and too slow for an ich treatment. If you don't have a heater, may I suggest you get one? Eheim if you can find one. The maximum temp I would advise for goldfish would be 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep the heater in turbulent areas to evenly disperse the heat.

    When you do water changes, you need to redose salt per the water volume changed. Since you're doing 50%, if you already reached three teaspoons per gallon, you have to redose 15 teaspoons of salt back to the tank again.

    Aquarium salt, pickling salt or rock salt will do the job nicely. Make sure the salt does NOT contain yellow prussiate of soda.

  3. You'll have to continue another 10 days of treatment after ich disappears to be sure you eliminate the parasites completely. The only way for them to return would be: failing to quarantine the possible carriers properly for four weeks, and failing to complete the treatment course as appropriate. In short, shortening your treatment process because you assume everything is back in order may allow the ich to survive as a low profile infection. Ich can attack the gill tissues silently and become quite visible only when they sense their hosts weakening significantly especially by stress-related factors.

    It is most vulnerable at free swimming stage but cannot be killed when they enter two other phases: cysts and feeding phase (wherein they embed themselves under the skin) as they are well protected in the process from meds. This is where elevated temp comes into play. It forces them to reproduce quickly thus the free swimming parasites are quickly destroyed by the present meds.

    Be sure you vacuum the bottom thoroughly to remove the cysts. And as a precaution, sterilize equipments after use so you will not transfer the cysts to other tanks.

    Ich cannot survive without fish for a few days and cannot host on invertebrates at all.

  4. 1. Good.

    2. I'd just get API kit to be sure.

    3. Same as no. 2. Get the kits to be sure. You can never be too sure. The results with nitrogen cycle always vary.

    4. Yes, carbon is not necessary. I've never used that for years. It's expensive for me to replace it every month anyway so there's no point investing in it when the water is consistently clear without it.

    5. 79 is safe. 80 is max. Make sure the heater is functioning properly. Get a thermometer to monitor the temp. And keep the heater in turbulent areas to disperse heat evenly.

  5. If you have to use sand, ditch the UGF. You cannot use sand with UGF. It's basically your preference. If you want sand, go for it. It does not need to be thicker than an inch if you do not plan to keep any plants. I do not see why you cannot use sand if you want it. HOB filters may be your best bet although sponge filters prove to be adequate enough since the critters you plan to keep won't contribute too much bioload. If you have to use HOB, wait for sand to completely settle first before you turn on the filter.

    To instantly cycle it, you may "borrow" the established media from your goldfish tanks.

    Aside from neons, you can still try honey gourami, sparkling gourami, betta or scarlet badis. More info on scarlet badis here.


    Be careful with a betta as it can prey on small shrimps. You may need to ensure your tank is heavily planted so the shrimps can quickly hide.

    For shrimp compatibility, check this. Incompatibility arises mostly from their ability to crossbreed. That is quite counterproductive to the purists who prefer to keep their shrimps pure especially if you plan to sell them.


    Edit: UGF sucks by the way. If you have to clean it, you have to strip down your tank. This is counterproductive in a planted setup.

  6. Hmmm...Have you smelled anything reminiscent to rotten eggs or sulfur when you dug the substrate?

    How often was the substrate vacuumed?

    Any decors? Hollow ones?

    At this point, my best assumption is that your fish's pop eye is very much related to water quality issues. I suspect possible nitrogen gas is responsible for popeye. Yes, gas supersaturation is one of the causes of pop eye. Only very clean water will help resolve that issue. You do not need to add the salt at all. Stick to clean water. Perhaps considering your gravel was very cloudy when you cleaned it up, you either have to do a more thorough vacuuming or just stick to barebottom setup. It's up to you but I've kept my goldfish tanks bare with plants confined in clay pots. Works well for me.

    As long as you keep your water clean, yes, your other fish will be absolutely fine.

    As for the salt causing the water to become acidic, well, salt does deplete oxygen level. If your hardness is somehow very low, the water can easily acidify when there is high amount of carbon dioxide involved. Nitrogen gas is also responsible for acidifying the water. Check your hardness levels please. If you don't have a kit, I recommend getting the API liquid kits.

  7. Could you please try testing your nitrite and nitrate? If you don't have test kits for those, please get an API liquid kit to determine your nitrite and nitrate. I think it would be a good idea to test your ammonia as well. I'm not sure yet I'd trust the ammonia reading even though that is toxic at that level. Doing a water change at this point won't hurt until you have the API kit.

    How much salt was dosed?

    Carbon is irrelevant. You can do well for years without having to use carbon. And it is disposable so you have to replace it every 4-6 weeks anyway otherwise, it will prove ineffective once it has collected enough substances that it is designed to absorb.

    If you do not have a heater, please get yourself one and crank the temp to 80 degrees Fahrenheit max. Eheim brand if you can find one. That's the highest I would advise for goldfish. You have to make sure water is well aerated as elevated temp and salt can deplete oxygen level. Goldfish are heavy oxygen consumers.

  8. Please keep your temperature at 80 degrees max. You are only shortening the lifespan of both neons and snails! 86 is ridiculously high. I ended up killing my neons by accident cranking heater to that temp.

    And pH at 7.8 is absolutely fine. I've kept several tropicals from tetras to loaches in pH of 8.0 with no issues. No, fiddling with my pH using RO water was never an option for me as I hate the rigorous pH fiddling.

    When the neons flash, which part of their body are they hitting constantly?

  9. According to his sage wisdom my first mistake was my water changes, I should be doing only 25% once a week to allow the bb to grow. He says most of this is in the water and most of all in the gravel since it stays mostly undisturbed. He then asks me how my fish are handling the water changes and how they can get stressed and go into shock with all the chlorine, I interupted and said I got well water, he said still the same. That from now on I should only do 25% changes once a week and only from the top of the water. Within a week or so my levels should be fine. oy..

    :rofl :rofl

    Apparently, you can't perform large water changes daily when you keep juvenile discus.:wacko:

  10. Hi, can you fill out the information at the top?

    We don't use any meds for ich. Aquarium salt works well for ich. You add 1 tablespoon per gallon of water every twelve hours until you have added salt 3 times. You keep the salt at this level for a month and vacuum the bottom of the tank daily.

    Ashlee, this is a typo. Teaspoon, not tablespoon. A tablespoon would mean three teaspoons exactly or in Australian measurement, possibly four teaspoons. I continue treatment of salt 10 days after ich disappears regardless of what ich meds you used. Always worked well for me.

    Now I don't know if it is suggested to stop the current meds though, since usually ending a treatment early makes it less effective in the future. Hopefully another member will come with that answer.

    Once the person already used the current med, you have no choice but to continue treatment course. For all ich treatments, I break the instructions and go by 10 days continuation to ensure ich is completely destroyed. Daily water changes (plus thorough vacuuming to remove the ich cysts) are a must so redose meds per water volume changed. Can't do full dose at the risk of overdosing and killing the fish.

    If the med is formalin-based, unfortunately, you cannot switch to salt almost immediately until you are sure that you eliminated the whole med. Formalin and salt are a lethal combo. You would have to wait it out 48 hours with carbon running and series of water changes until you can switch to salt.

    But don't use quick cure. It can be used for other diseases in the future and using it now might make it less effective.

    How so? I'm not getting this.

    I'm not going to offer advice since i'm pretty new here myself but with pleco's can't you only go half strength with salt or meds? thats what i read everywheres so that is what i did with mine. i'll wait for someone more expirienced to answer this

    I've successfully treated loaches and catfishes with 0.2% max but 0.1% will work just fine. Not all fish have the same level of tolerance. Strange my 5-year old BN pleco enjoys showering on the salt haze (dissolved salt).

  11. I'm not entirely sure what caused the ammonia spike. However, the algae in the tank has been much worse than usual lately, and when I looked at the filter I noticed there wasn't as much water passing through it as usual, so I think it may be clogged by algae. I rinsed it out and it's working better but still not as efficiently as usual. However, I'm hesitant to change the filter as the new one would have to cycle and I'm afraid that would stress her more and possibly kill her.

    Does anyone have any suggestions?

    Which algae is your problem? Green floating algae? The limited water movements can deprive your beneficial bacteria of oxygen. It could kill some of it. It may be why the remaining BB is unable to handle the ammonia load. Dead algae can also contribute to this issue.

    How have you been trying to fix the algae issue anyway? We need to know this. This is the most essential point in this situation. If it were not for the algae, this problem would never happen at all. You admitted the algae clogged the filters so the algae is the main cause of this situation.

    Don't hesitate to upgrade the filter. You have two options: transfer the current media in the new and bigger filter, or run both old and new filter.

  12. This is very strange! ... unless you have an inside pond, your fish will not last long outside..... and no one has an aquarium set up to handle 200 Orandas .... WTF?


    He already said he is raising them in the pond.

    Shawn, what happened to the black moors and orandas though?

    And yikes! I dunno how you can attempt shipping 200 baby orandas. I'd expect heavy losses alone from that. :o

  13. If Daryl were around and has extra goldfish, she'd probably be willing to sell you some as long as you have adequate space.;) Be careful where you get your fry. A lot of those sold in big number are usually culls or rejects. Oh, some of my friends do sell them in wholesale prices but they are not as high quality usually as you want them to be.

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