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Everything posted by OLDFISH

  1. Just to be on the SAFE side, I use a quart of aquarium water to boil/blanch veggies in.
  2. Breeding American Glass Shrimp can be a little bit difficult in the home aquarium. American Glass Shrimp are difficult to determine sex and they are a low order shrimp (their eggs hatch as free floating larva, not miniature versions of their parents) so they are a little more difficult to raise. Once hatched the small larva will require powdered algae (Spirulina is a great algae for this) and should be in a separate aquarium to avoid predation. The larva will metamorphosis to miniature versions of the adults in about a week. Once the larva have reached metamorphosis, they will require no further special care. Above info is from the link below: http://www.theshrimpfarm.com/wiki/other/american-glass-shrimp
  3. Is the tank glass or acrylic? And, do you have a strand, or planning on building one? If the tank is acrylic & you plan to build a stand? You might think about a DIY wet/dry trickle filter. W/D T/F's are easy to design & DIY. Acrylic tanks are easy to drill & installing a bulkhead fitting is simple. That way, you have a gravity feed tank overflow, that is foolproof if installed properly. You could build the stand slightly wider & a bit taller than normal. That way, it would be easy to design & fit a custom DIY W/D T/F in it. Advantages of a W/D T/F are several. Higher flow through rate than any other type filter. Largest bio-media capacity of any filter system. With ample bio-media, biofilter capacity expands/contacts on an as needed basis. Maximum oxygenation of flow water. Sump adds extra water volume capacity. Heater, etc can be in sump, not in tank. Very low maintenance & easy to clean. You can keep extra & large sponge filters running in the sump. (which gives you an instant & fully cycled filter for a QT tank, if need be) Open cell foam d am in the sump is an excellent mechanical filter. (simply clean it occasionally) A LARGE capacity W/D T/F can be built inexpensively. You can get very high quality pump on eBay, relatively inexpensively. That will last a decade in well cared for (Danner, Iwaki, BlueLine, etc). There are a lot of very effective types of bio-media you can purchase cheaply. I run a large W/D T/F on a 100G show tank & can stock it far past any recommended stocking rate around. With 0 nitrates, 0 ammonia, great water quality & clarity. Fish are fat, happy & healthy. More info if you want it.
  4. Soapstone is pretty soft. I would think in water over extended periods it would get even softer, even mushy. I think a resin soak would be a good idea to stabilize it.
  5. One of the 3 apple snails in my shrimp tank laid eggs on the light fixture cover just yesterday. Wow, started with 20 shrimp about 3 months ago & now have 200+ & thats after giving away about 50 or 75 to peaple who wanted to start a shrimp tank. Dog had 8 puppies, whats next? I'm glad my blue eyed cockatoo doesn't have a mate, othewise she would be laying eggs.
  6. Sounds like you have a mild BACTERIAL BLOOM. Not a big deal & may cure itself. You might also try adding a flocculent = water clarifier sold @ most LFS
  7. I would suggest 4ft depth for a large part of the pond. That provides more water volume, and depth for escape from preditors, as well as cooler summer time water temps & over-winters better than shallow ponds. You will find, setting up a pond properly, with a liner, biofilter & pump is not a cheap thing to do, even DIY. But, once done, if done right, it will give you a life time of pleasure.
  8. 7.4 / 7.5 is fine. Why change it?
  9. I am VERY carefull about such things. The ones I bought are 50% recycled rubber and 50% recycled polyethylene. No fungicides, no nothing
  10. So long as your lid is not air tight, and you have a high tank turn over rate, adequate biofilters and ample aeration, CO2 is not an issue. Matter of fact, if you want live plants to do well, besides good nutrients & ample lighting, you need a CO2 level around 15-18 PPM.
  11. Years back I bought all the scrubby pads the local dollar had. Which made me a believer in them, as they worked perfectly. Then planned to built far bigger W/D trickle type filters. So, I googled for a wholesale place that sold them as I needed about enough to fill a 55G drum. I found 2 wholesale places online that sell them in bulk. http://www.koleimports.com/default.htm < $100 minimum purchase http://dollardays.co...uring-pads.html I ended up buying several cases & the per piece price was about 6 or 7 cents each. Now building a moving bed type VORTEX filter for a bigger prodject & wanted a bouyant media for that. After checking prices on Kaldness K1 media: http://www.pondpetsu...ia/kaldnes.html I came up with a DIY floating media that has more surface area than K1, is inert & is near indestructable Would you believe lawn & garden type SOAKER HOSE.......... LOL Ended up buying 1000 ft of it. http://www.mrdrip.co...rhosedeluxe.htm
  12. I have a used MAG 350 that came in a trade deal along with a couple big tanks. I have it set up to run on my 55G QT tank, when & if needed. I kept the mechanical filter sleeve, discarded the carbon & stuffed the area where the carbon was with mono type scrubbie pads. You can often find these pads @ dollar type stores packaged about 6 or 8 for a buck. They last forever & are easy to clean. They have a huge bio surface area, something like 360 cubic ft, per cubic ft of pads. You could also used Matala type filter material, or some other brand like it, cut to size & rolled up. http://www.matalausa.com/subcat25.html
  13. I personally LOVE puppy breath! It must be a weird family thing LOL, glad you resolved the issue. I have a lot of puppy breath smell here right now, but not from the fish tanks, LOL But, not from the fish tanks, LOL
  14. Or, a large amount of limestone (calcium carbonate)
  15. I have used a course play ground sand (about $5 for 50 lbs @ builders supply) as a thin substrate layer about 3/8ths inch thick on my tank bottoms for 20 years. My GF spend about 25% of their time foraging in it for left over food they may have missed at feeding times. My GF are fat/happy/healthy & appear to enjoy it being there.
  16. A large collender & a garden hose works well for washing dust/silt out of gravel. Or pour it in a bucket, then use a hose to wash it off, pouring out the water, until the water in the bucket runs clear.
  17. I have a thin layer of course playground type sand, maybe 3/8ths of an inch thick on the bottom of my 100G tall show tank in the living room. It's well stocked & been running 5 years witth fat happy healthy GF in it. The sand has never irritated gills, nor been any problem at all. Matter of fact, the GF spend about 25% of there time foraging in it for leftovers from feeding time. IMHO, sand is better than gravel, because it has less void space than gravel. So, leftover food pretty much stays on top the sand, where fish can find & eat it. With gravel, food can sink into it & rot, if not vac'ed often. I also believe a mixed sand adds micro/macro mineral trace elements, which gives you better water chemistry. Not to mention, most sand has some calcium carbonate in it, which buffers pH. Also, from time to time here, you see a 911 post RE: a piece of gravel stuck in a GF's mouth. Which doesn't happen with sand. I have seen fancy GF that spend summers in outdoor ponds, forage in mud/silt/sand on a pond bottom, creating a cloud of muddy/turdid water around them. But, they kept right on foraging right there. That did not seem to me to irritate their gills, otherwise they would not continue doing it. I also don't care for a BB tanks looks & a thin layer of sand gives a tank a more natural look IMHO. In nature, GF will suck in sand & blow it out their gills, to clean them, or to remove debris, or parisites attached to gills. But, we all have our own train of thought on the subject of sand as a substrate. Go with what you think best. My tanks have drilled overflow bulkheads about 5 inches below the water line, so getting sand in my W/D T/F filter system was never an issue. If you run a powerfull canister filter, keep the intake as far away from the sand, as possible. As sand will damage a pump impeller & plug a cannister filter, if allowed to suck it up.
  18. Wow, if you think "common sense" is harsh, or that I back up whatever I have to say with facts is "abrasive". I should either minimize my posting here, or just stop posting here altogather.
  19. I googled extensively, trying to find any downside to having a thin sand substrate in a freshwater aquarium. I found none of any merit. Most were opinions, without any evidence of facts to support them. Some seem to think sand will plug filters, or damage pump impellers, if it gets sucked into a HOB or canister filter. Which is true, so you have to be careful about where the filter intake is situated. So as to NOT suck in sand, which is a no brainer anyway with any tank bottom substrate. Other than that, I found some upsides. Various micro/macro amounts of trace mineral elements are essential to good fish health. Bare tanks only contain whatever micro/macro mineral type trace elements that are contained in the tanks water. The only other mineral type trace elements that would be in a tank come in via food. Which if lacking, means the whole system may lack some, or several essential mineral trace elements. Sands composition usually contains most micro/macro mineral trace elements fish require. Which constantly leach into the water on a micro level & help maintain a healthy water chemistry. Secondly, most sand contains various degrees of calcium carbonate particles, which acts as a buffer to help stabilize pH. Third, tiny amounts of grit derived from sand aids in fish being able to digest fibrous food better. 4th, a thin layer of sand promotes fish activity, insofar as fish naturally enjoy foraging in it for food. All in all, the preference to use a thin layer of sand as a substrate is on the one who sets up & maintains the system. As there are opinions both pro & con regarding its use.
  20. GOOGLE ...... LAS VEGAS NV TROPICAL FISH You will get about a dozen plus names/address's & phone numbers. Call them & ask if they stock what you are looking for. I would start with Atlantis Tropicals 1930 Rock Springs Dr Las Vegas, NV 89128-8313 (702) 869-6448‎
  21. If conditons are right & fish are well fed & able, they will spawn. Could be a combination of Koi fry, comet fry & some possible koi/comet hybrids (which would be sterile & usually brown) Just depends on when & which males released milt & what females released fertile eggs that came in contact with any viable milt. Sometimes, in koi/comet ponds, mating becomes a frenzy & everybody capable gets involved.
  22. Wow. That seems a bit harsh. All I know is that as long as I've been a member, mods and members (among them breeders and gf show award winners) have not recommended sand. It's not that it cannot be used. Some people do use it and it works for them. I choose not to use it. Now, excuse me while I go hide under my river rock . . . I did not mean to sound harsh. I admit, I could have stated the facts in a more diplomatic way. Did anyone ever think to inquire to those you mention, WHY SAND IS NOT RECOMMENDED? I doubt any answer they gave would have considerable merit, or validation to back it up. Any outdoor pond has mud, silt & sand in it, which fish commonly forage in much of the time& remain utterly healthy. And, the bulk of goldfish bred, raised & sold wordwide are grown out in those ponds. That demonstrates to me mud, silt & sand is not an issue. No need to go hide under a river rock & please don't. If I offended you, I apologize. I would certainly welcome some verifiable data that sand harms GF.
  23. RE: SAND Please allow some degree of common sense to prevail here. By world class judging standards, with all things considered, most certainly the most beautiful Koi & larger goldfish in the world usually were grown out in ponds. Which juveniles are introduced into after having been grown out past fry stage to young fingerling stage in tanks & having gone through a series of culling. In Japan, Asia, USA and everywhere else I know of, those rearing ponds are usually MUD BOTTOM. In some instances, bentonite clay is used to seal mud bottom ponds, to help retain water in them. Even if LINERS are used, ponds with liners accumulate dust, which forms silt. That silt accumulates into a thin layer of MUD on the bottom of ponds with liners. Koi & GF are constantly foraging & rooting around in that mud, browsing for food. In doing so, those fish stir up a considerable amount of fine silt, which turns the water surrounding them turbid. Which doesn't interfere with their foraging, one bit, as they continue right on foraging in that muddy water . Meaning, their gills will withstand that, and not be damaged by fine silt in muddy water. Sand in well filtered aquariums doesn't usually contain a lot of fine silt. Sand doesn't float, nor cause the water to become turbid. Fish forage in that sand for food. Any sand they inhale, they either spit out, or excrete out through their gills. In nature, ponds or aquariums, that is how they feed themselves. In nature fish will sometimes inhale sand & excrete it out their gills for a purpose. That being to clean their gills & remove parasites that attach on their gills. I doubt Mother nature's design is wrong. GF are still here aren't they & foraging in mud or sand is a natural GF activity.
  24. I would think the case is transparent green colored, to add or provide some kind of UV protection in the plastic. Which would protect the BB inside from harmfull light. And, being clear, you can see the flow rate happen, not to mention tell when floss/pads are dirty. Which is a good reminder, to clean the filter.
  25. Mother natures biofiter system Next best thing to replicate Mother natures biofilter system (BAKKI SHOWER) Developed in Japan & used for high end Koi pond filtration world wide. However, obviously Bakki showers are not practical for home aquarium systems. Next best thing is a well designed large wet/dry trickle filter (W/D T/F). Because, if you have the space available, a W/D T/F also replicates Mother natures biofilter system. Because it has a larger air water interface than any other aquarium filter, water can leave a W/D T/F saturated with more dissolved oxygen (DO) than it entered with. Secondly, that same large air/water interface functions as a stripper to remove CO2, H2S, N2 or other undesirable gas's. Third, Because W/D T/F's have a far higher hydraulic loading rate (water flow capacity) than any other type aquarium filter, they have a faster, as well as higher ammonia removal rate than other filters. 4th, because water falls down through the bio-media in a W/D T/F, it has a flushing action, keeping biofilms relatively clean, so they function at neap optimal capacity at all times.
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