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  1. not sure if this would be helpful but, just in case!
  2. KH is carbonate or temporary hardness whereas GH is total, permanent or general hardness. That shouldn't be a cause for concern. It'd take 1.0 or more to effectively stress a fish. 0.6 is a small difference. Look into the KH difference more than the pH. OOOHHHH on the kH being carbonate. i thought it was alkalinity. are you saying that the kH has to match with water changes? i thought that didnt matter. since i've been buffering, i always make sure that its going to be at least 100 before i add the new water but i never worried if the tank was at 190 and the new water was at 100. is that a problem?
  3. now i'm more confused. isn't hardness/softness measured with gH? i'm not worried about the tank's kH at all. i've been able to get that up with buffers. (the kH in the tank was raised when i used the seachem phosphate buffer. i tested it for a month before i put it in the tank.) i'm also not concerned about the tank's pH being higher, EXCEPT its a problem for water changes. the only thing that i'm worried about is that the tank's pH is 0.6 higher than the tap's current pH. i need to do a water change. you're not supposed to alter the pH a lot so that's why i'm worried. any suggestion?
  4. That's strange. Your Hagen test kit indicated your water is fairly hard though. As far as the Kent and Seachem, hun, if the Seachem is calcium chloride aside from Kent, calcium chloride does not increase the pH, only the KH. This is useful especially in cases where pH has already elevated steeply. Corals are calcium carbonate basically and should elevate both the pH and KH. You need more than just a lone coral to get the KH desired. yes, thats why i chose the Seachem. It's a stabilizer. I didnt really want to raise the pH. (We have two goldfish and they would be fine in the tap's pH). I do have some coral as decoration but I doubt they do a thing. On the other hand, I have a bunch of crushed coral in one of my filters. It's acting as both medium and, I hoped, a kH raiser. I knew it might raise the pH but I was hoping that it wouldn't. Since I have been using the stabilizer, I cannot say for sure whether or not the coral is helping wiht the kH. (I was told that it takes a while for it to work and to buffer the tap kH in the interim.) I am confused on water hardness, though. I've never really understood where it should be or how it helps. I did learn that the kH is really important for keeping the pH stable so I've been working on keeping that high. (I had two or three tank pH crashes, due to the low kH from tap, before I knew any better.) TANK kH with dKH=10 (179.5 ppm) kH with ppm=120ppm pH=7.8 (due to coral) TAP kH with dKH=3 (53.7 ppm) kH with ppm=30ppm pH=7.2 (it hovers btwn 7.0-7.6, with 7.4 being the average) I tested the kH with both Hagen (which tests in ppm) and API (which tests in dKH). After using the API chart for conversion, the two kits are NEVER real close in ppm but I think its bc API is designed to test in dKH and the conversion makes the ppm not as accurate. _________________________________________________ The Seachem is "Neutral Regulator". The front of it claims to adjust to 7.0 but it doesn't. It just keeps the pH constant. (I tested it before I used it.) On the back of the bottle it says to lower the pH, you must use it with Acid Regulator and to raise the pH, you must use it with Alkaline regulator. So the front label is misleading. It's a phosphate buffer. The Kent is pH Stable. I haven't used it yet but it does say to use it with pH Control Plus or pH Control Minus to raise or lower the pH. This one is phosphate and nitrate free. _________________________________________________ I'm concerned about using the tap when it's pH is currently so much lower than the tank's. They are overdue for a water change. (thank you for helping!)
  5. the kH is low out of tap but it varies (20ppm-60ppm) so i dont know what it is tonight. i'll retest it in a bit. i've been using some buffer to raise the kH in the tank for keeping pH stable and it does a great job with that. i added the coral bc i hoped i could stop using buffer and just use coral. (i am using seachem buffer and i have some kent that i will switch to when i run out of the seachem. neither of those products affect the pH, just the kH as they are only stabilizers.) the coral caused the pH to go up, dont think it helped with the kH though. it has done nothing for the calcium as i'm still x<20ppm. i really didnt want to raise the tank pH bc i knew it would cause a headache at water changes but that's what happened. HAGEN RESULTS (tests in ppm) tank gH=80 ppm tank kH=130ppm API RESULTS (tests in dkH) tank gH= 5 drops tank kH= 12 drops i can post all the tank and tap stats in a bit, if you think it would help.
  6. tonight, S&S are getting their weekly water change. (i'm actually 3 days late.) the coral in the tank's filter raised the pH to 7.8. my tap water pH varies from 7.0-7.6, so i checked it. tap pH is at 7.2. what should i do? i have some pH up, should i use that on the fresh water before i add it? i know that baking soda will raise it also but it takes a few days to work, right? help!!!! thanks, again!
  7. aquaclear easy to prime?! do i have a dud? (have aquaclear 20.) it takes FOREVER AND A DAY to get mine started. i hate it bc of that. my arm is tired from pouring all the water back in before it starts back up. everybody raves abt them so i've been hesitant to admit that i hate it but, i do. my other filters do not take nearly as much work to get started.
  8. i'm not an expert; however, i have the hagen aqua clear (along with two others). i'd definitely get two bc if one fails, you've still got the other going. (i had that happen to me.) also, i would get the aqua clear with a different brand. why? aqua clear takes a TON of priming to get it started when you shut it off (or is shut off by loss of power). if you are ever out of town and you lose power, your filtration won't be working. my three filters on 38-gal tank are: Tetra EX45, Tetra 40 and Aqua Clear 20. Eventually (when I find the funds), I'll get rid of the Aqua Clear 20 and Tetra 40 and replace with either a larger Aqua Clear or an Ehem, or something similar with a biowheel. Tetra EX45 is my favorite bc it has no priming required so if there's a power outage, I don't have to worry.
  9. why not get a versa-top? all-glass aquarium makes them and they are cheaper than full hoods. i like them better bc you can see through them. there's another company that makes them but i dont remember who they are. your link was for the UK, this one is for the USA but you can probably find them over there. this is just so you know what i'm talking about. (i did try searching where you are located by putting UK in the search but it didn't work so well, since my computer recognizes that i'm not over there. annoying but i guess usually useful.) http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod...cfm?pcatid=3790
  10. okay i'll start rinsing the stinky gravel. lol. i did add food to it but it didnt help, it seems. yes, i added the salt to help prevent nitrite poisoning. was that not a good idea? it's the 10-gal glass aquarium that i'm using for the air pumps. it should be okay, right? the vibrating won't cause it to crack or will it? must have been tired last night bc i forgot to turn the switch for the filters to turn back on after i finished giving them fresh water. i turned on the light and it didnt work, thought the bulb burnt out. duh. they did have the three air pumps all night bc they are on a different plug. poor fishies... will the cycling end? will it? every time that i think i'm free of cycling, i have to start fresh.
  11. i checked the tub of gravel's stats last night, the ammonia was greater than 8.0!!! sure am glad that i didnt use that gravel. nitrite was 0.25. okay so now that my sprung a leak tank is taken care of and they are in a new tank... should i start a new thread? or leave it be? or does it not matter since its just me, myself and i reading this?
  12. Checked the tank stats tonight, the Ammonia was 0.25 and Nitrite 0.25. Last night, they were Ammonia 0 <x<0.25 and Nitrite 0. I'm getting sick of cycling tanks.... Still not sure what to do abt the tub of gravel. It smells badly. Changing water when the tank is on a stand is so much easier! The sink vacuum works much better. I used a 13-gal plastic tote to get their fresh water (10-gal) ready and it was easy enough to pour it in with a bucket. I conditioned the fresh water with Prime and added 0.5% salt for the entire tank water volume. I'm using the old 10-gal glass tank as a stand for the air pumps. (I have it sitting on its side inside the tank cabinet and the 4 air pumps on top.) Do you think that's okay? Alright, guess I'll go to bed now. Good night!!
  13. good that it doesnt have to be 100% level. its pretty darn close! i'll bet in an emergency, you can move! but then the tank wouldnt be perfect. i got them in the 10-gal pretty darn quick and wasnt even worried about where i was putting them. after i did it, i was thinking "oh man... that is such a bad spot!" the big move is complete!!! i put four airstones in, so they'd have a little extra oxygen. also, with careful measurements, they are in 35-gal of water! (i marked the tank, too, so fill ups will be easy.) surprisingly, that's only about an 1 from the bottom of the top frame. or maybe not so surprising, when i measured the 10-gal, in order to have 10-gals, you would have to fill it up to the brim. anyway, love having the extra air space below the top frame. what to do abt the gravel thats sitting in a tub of water? should i put it in stockings in the tank and slowly remove? or is there no point? i did add stability and food to the tub.
  14. remember my really ambitious goal to get the tank set up tonight? i'm sure all you experienced fish tank setter uppers were just laughing away! (last time, i put the 30-gal on carpeted floor and it wasn't level ... could have been part of the problem.) the store's shipment wasn't until late this afternoon (5pm). couldn't go right away and by the time we left the store, it was 830pm. it took several hours to level the tank. who knew? (i'm sure some of you did!) there's abt 5-gal of water in it and it's either completely level or off by 1/8" on the right side of tank. if it is off, is that okay? i don't want another leaking tank. my floor is a little curved bc the tank (on stand) can slightly rock when i press against it. i'm hoping with full tank, it wont be able to do that. do you think the weight of water will stop that? i want to finish filling it up tonight so the temp in the tanks match. i do need to check the 10-gal stats to ensure that the fishys are in decent water. i thought the tank rested inside the stand but it doesn't, it sits atop it. there is a board about 2-3" below the frame. are they all like that? i decided to go bare bottom since i was able to set up a race track with the green gravel in the frame. (i put a black foam slip mat in it and then made the design. my son was happy to donate 3 of his matchbox size cars that he never plays with.) since you arent supposed to remove all gravel at once, would putting gravel in several plastic bowls and removing a bowl each week be good? can i use a plastic bowl or does it need to be ceramic? should i even bother, since the gravel will be sitting in a tub for 4 days? i did add food and have been adding double the dose of stability nightly. also, i put some of their dirty water in the tank last night. the stats of that water was 0.5 ammonia & 0.5 nitrite. the tub was too full so i i emptied some of the water early this evening and the discarded water was yellowish in color. (GROSS!) oh man, i'm so tired. i thought that i hit POST and i didnt ... 30min later, i post.
  15. i missed this post before i purchased but you made me feel better! LOL. i read abt acrylic tanks not breaking BUT they dont look good after several years. i had visions of replacing ANOTHER tank and really didn't want that. therefore-- i did stick with glass, just hope the new one doesnt crack. wonder if it was the heat and nearly sudden temp change? (was wearing medium/light jackets on thursday and by saturday was wearing shorts.) i didnt have the a/c unit in the window bc it was quite rapid and it gets REALLY hot bc we are upstairs. i also had the tank sitting on the edge of carpet, where it meets the tile. about a half-inch to inch was over the border but didnt set on the tile as it is about 1-2cm lower. might have stressed the tank that way. so i'm wondering if you couple the sudden change in temp from 50/60-F to 85/F in a day and the way the tank sat on an edge, if that spelled disaster.
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