Jump to content

ironmolly

Regular Member
  • Posts

    203
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ironmolly

  1. I agree, it's a great book! Worth every penny!
  2. High phosphates in your water can be a cause. High nitrates/dissolved organics as well. Phosphate remover, more frequent water changes, maybe better water filtration, adding plants to out-compete the algae, all could help. Green algae I'm happy to have in my tank. The fish eat it, and it never really gets out of control. I think it's natural to have some in there. The other kinds, not so much.
  3. Can you buy a plastic storage bin? Around here, they are only about $7, with lid. I don't know what's available where you are, and the price.
  4. The coral should work for a LONG time, probably a year or more, but it's not forever. Eventually it will need to be replaced.
  5. I vote ryukin, too. But regardless, cute fish!
  6. Just chiming in to wish you luck! Hope the meds arrive quickly and all is well soon!
  7. Yeah, that's just like mine. Realized that I hadn't reviewed the Microbe-Lift, so I posted one up there.
  8. Thought I reviewed this before, but I guess not, so here goes. I have low kh water, out of the tap, with a ph of 7.6. Have had a lot of trouble over the years keeping it stable in the tank. Have tried coral, it helped, but still some fluctuations. This product seems to be working very well for me. It's Microbe-Life 7.5 ph Buffer/Stabilizer for fresh water. It states that it's purpose is to resist ph-drop (acidification) and to hold ph at a given target ph. It does state on the package that it is suitable for goldfish. However, it is NOT meant to raise ph, it is meant to hold it, and boost kh. It will lower your ph to 7.5. If your ph is substantially higher than that, that could be a problem. The first time I added it to the tank water, it clouded the water for I think a day. Then it cleared up, and I don't get cloudy water when I add it with water changes. My kh is stable at about 150, and the ph is stable at 7.5. My fish seem happier, and have been very healthy. It's available online through Fosters & Smith, probably other websites, too.
  9. Signed. I agree that just banning bowls will not fix the problem. I think that taking the goldfish pictures off will help. But anything that will raise awareness helps. I do think that the one gallon eclipse set-ups are horrible. I got my fish Bubbles by rescuing her from a friend's one gallon Sponge Bob tank. She was in there for 9 months, and was only one inch long. I thought she would be stunted forever, but she is now 5 years old and over 9 inches long! Boy was she lucky I visited! I wanted to kill whoever sold that tank for a goldfish! Totally another subject, but the "grow a frog" kits are bad, too. My nephew got one, and by following MY instructions, he ended up with a very large African Clawed Frog in a ten-gallon tank that lived to be 6 years old. It even sang. The directions on the package are for a "disposable" frog. *sigh*
  10. So sorry to hear! I suggest you wait for someone with more experience to advise. If he's still eating and active, that's good. I wouldn't rush to medicate until someone on here with experience tells you what to do, I'm sure someone has seen this before. But as always, when something is going wrong, water change, water change, water change!
  11. OK, I do use another product other than the Buff It Up, Microbe-Lift 7.5 Buffer/Stabilizer, and it's been working fine for me. It is more easily available than Buff It Up. I did a review of it in the product reviews section if you're looking for it. It keeps my kh and ph nice and steady. I will say that the first application made my water cloudy, but that went away. Now when I add it in with water changes, it doesn't. It is not meant for raising ph though, just for stabilizing at 7.5 and for kh. If your ph is way off, it's not going to fix that. If your water comes out of the tap with a good ph (like mine does), it will keep it there.
  12. Glad you were just kidding! So perhaps it is just stress-related after all. Hope he keeps improving!
  13. I have low kh/gh problems out of the tap, too. Stupid soft water! I just used the crushed coral for years, but I suspect it wasn't totally solving the problem. Since I have started a buffer, my fish have been healthier and happier. The only thing with putting the coral in the substrate is that I think it does sort of lose its potency after a while, and need to be replaced. It takes quite a while for that to happen, but in my opinion, it does, eventually. I would put it in a bag somewhere in the tank.
  14. Well, the resting on the bottom thing as well would lead me to believe there might be something else going on. Could be the start of a bacterial infection, could be signs of parasites. A mod or someone else would be better able to diagnose and tell you what your next step should be. I'm not much of a treatment expert, except for good water quality.
  15. Hmm, a pic would definitely help. I guess it could be a result of the bullying, but I would hate to let symptoms of something else just pass by. The fact that it's getting worse is worrying. With mine, it would be just being able to see the main vein at the bottom of the the tail for a day, and then it would fade away. This sounds like it could be something different.
  16. White fish can develop black smudges on the fins as an after-effect of being exposed to medications or medicated foods. They eventually fade away. Has the fish been medicated lately?
  17. OK, well, let's see if I can answer some of your questions. When cycling a tank, you test for ammonia, nitrIte, and nitrAte. You have just been testing for ammonia and nitrAte. You say that you have been cycling the tank for 38 days and now have no ammonia and do have nitrAte. In a fully cycled tank, you will have zero ammonia, zero nitrIte, and nitrAte will start to accumulate. Did the fish store test your nitrIte level? I'm assuming there wasn't any. After 38 days, I'd say that it is likely that your tank is cycled. You should get yourself a master test kit (drops, not strips) to test for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and ph at minimum. Regular water testing is a very important ongoing part of keeping healthy fish. It is true that goldfish can generally tolerate a low level of nitrAte. Most people do have some in their tanks, and I would say that we try to keep it no higher than 15-20 ppm at the highest point before a water change. Any higher than that, and you risk the fish suffering from disease. Goldfish ARE sensitive to high nitrates. You do have one other problem though--your tank is too small, from what I can tell. I think 70 litres is equivalent to about 18 U.S. gallons? You will need at least 10 gallons per fish for your fish to grow and be healthy. If they are pond fish, you will need even more space. Your fish are going to outgrow your tank very, very quickly.
  18. In 8 years, I've seen my fish "pop a vein" a lot. I had one red cap that would do that if anything changed in the tank at all. After water changes the veins in her tail would show up slightly for a day or so. Some fish are really sensitive to changes, and in my experience, that's where it shows up. Any kind of stress or change at all, and they'll do that. It should fade pretty quickly though, if water conditions are good and stable. If your tank is having ph fluctuations, that could be the culprit. I know it could be something more serious, such as parasites or bacterial infection, but in my experience, I've seen it come and go. I'm not talking totally red fins here, just being able to see a few veins in the tail from time to time. Oh, and the red cap I mentioned lived to be 8 years old, so she didn't die from anything related to the veins in her tail...lol.
  19. Good on you for helping out! My petsmert used to have a good fish manager who would ask tank size for goldfish, feed veggies, and used to QT the sick ones in the back. Unfortunately, she's gone. Now they know nothing and don't care.
  20. Without nitrates, you're not cycled. Perhaps since you are doing a lot of water changes and keeping things down, the ammonia levels are low. If you look at the chart at the top, the ammonia spike, as compared to the nitrite spike, is a lot smaller. It would make sense to me then, that you could possibly keep the ammonia at levels that aren't detectable, but yet get enough bacteria to produce a nitrite spike that is detectable? The curve of the nitrite spike is more than double the one for the ammonia. Just an educated guess here...
  21. So glad the coral is working! You posted zero for nitrites both times? Have you ever seen any nitrates at all? Bet you can't wait to get through this all and just enjoy your fish!
  22. I have an old 5-gallon eclipse hex, and the rim comes off. Perhaps this tank is like that?
  23. That's my guess, too. Does that little thing that looks like a knob on the top turn? Looks like what I have on my powerhead that adjusts the air intake... With mine on the powerhead, I have to blow air through it to "clear" it before putting the end cap on for it to actually work, otherwise it won't put air into the water.
  24. j-pond, what happened with your ph? Did you figure it out yet? How are the fish? I am curious to know if you found an answer to the mystery!
  25. Gorgeous! I wish I could have a tank like that! Maybe someday...
×
×
  • Create New...