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indoxsmokez

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  1. im so sorry i had a logn detailed post and answered all the questions abt parameters and a VERY long story about what happened and how it happened..but as i was adding the picture i clicked backspace and i lost everything...its really late, i was wondering if any of you can just help me identify what type of infection killed my fish? within 2 days of first cloudy eye(if thats what it even was) symptoms as it got progressively worse very quickly, until now when my goldfish just died. what type of infection is this? (one other oranda was completely unaffected and is still totally fine) sorry again for breakign the forum rules..and thanks in adv for even takign the time to read it...
  2. The 10 gallons is to do with both the waste and the size of a fully grown adult goldie, some can easily reach 8-10 inches depending on the type. My oranda is 6 inches nose to tail tip and makes a 10 gallon tub look tiny...I can see your aunt's point about not wanting only 3 fish in a big tank, I currently have two in a 47 gallon and it does look a bit empty as one of them's tiny, but they will grow. One of the things that makes my tank look less empty when understocked is planting it up with java ferns. Would your aunt consider rehoming some of the fish and then planting the tank up a bit? It makes it a bit more of a 'feature' item then as people look at the tank instead of just the fish, and plants can really help with the bioload provided you don't add so many they starve the filter bacteria. I've seen some gorgeous planted tanks without any fish in them and they look stunning, the movement of the plants is enough to captivate. Alternatively if she wants lots of fish rather than 2-3 and you don't have a heater, what about a big school of minnows? I think you could easily have 20 in a tank that size, they grow to about 2 inches long and have gorgeous silver stripes and bright red tails and fins and a school can look quite striking. It would mean rehoming your goldies though... If you feed your fish good foods 3-4 times a day in small portions they should grow pretty quick, as much as 2-3 inches in a few months is not unheard of. Good call on the filter, it'll help but it's unfortunately still not a long term solution. Stubborn relatives can be such a pain can't they hmm java ferns would look nice , ive had them in with my bettas awhile back. hmm, my uncle is building a pond in the back that is almost done. maybe i can put them in there? and then convince my aunt not to buy anymor fish!...that way i can have 3 in that tank...and the rest in the pond? the smaller schooling fish is a no-go...closest thing she had was guppies and that wasnt so popular... and talk about relatives...what makes it worse is, our family friends, pack the goldfish in a small tank all the time, they like to cram em in there with no swimming room! the worst one is...20g tank about TWENTY goldfish..and i think a couple KOI in there too..im like ...wtf... also a sidenote...i live with my aunt, in case any of u were wondering why im so busy with my aunt's tank and uncle'es pond lol
  3. yup its nasty ich..=/ Yikes! Good spot! That looks like ich! Are you salting the tank Indox? You'll need to to get rid of that...it's horrible, I hates it! Aquarium salt is the best treatment and you'll need to do the whole tank. It might also explain his aggression, if he's got ich in his gills then it's bound to make him grouchy. That oranda is gorgeous and he's so tiny! Cute! not yet but i read the salting article that was in TRINKET's signature...and im going to get some salt today (if i can find it) i know i love his small face! u know thats funny because..on the PC box..it doesnt say ich...it says all the other parasites..but yea i wonder why the box doenst say so...and in my other post, with the help of others, ill hopefully get this salting thing down o ok thanks..well the 2 black orandas DEF has the breeding stars on the leading pectoral fin ray..it was easier to spot cause theyre black i guess the bigger black one is already losing his color with a LOT of reddish-orange.even the small one you can start to see light light gold..buti agree they look so freaking cool that its worth it!
  4. well i just read that salting article you have in your signature, very helpful indeed...and ill try to salt ASAP then..BUT, where exactly do you buy 100% pure salt? like at the grocery store or like specialized pet store?... also, i would increase the temp if i could, but dont have a heater big enough for the tank atm. even though it takes longer at the colder temperatures, eventually the ich will be completely gone either way right? Trinket is one of the moderators that helped ME when I first came to this board when I was in the SAME position as u. My fish had Ich and I was treating with medications that were making them worse.. Trinket and the other mods/helpers/members helped me out and explained the benefits of salting. And to prove them RIGHT, all of the fish that I had that were treated with Ich meds died. But the fish that I treated with salt survived!! :-) Now that I've had a chance to read the answers you have posted, I would like to add a few more things that may help in the long run, AFTER we get this Ich problem taken care of! Unfortunately ur tank is overstocked. So many people don't realize it, but fancy goldfish like yours need 10 gallons of space each MINIMUM. Which means that for YOUR fish (7 correct) you would need a 70 gallon tank at the smallest... It seems like a lot I realize. But in the long run, the only way to get healthy happy goldfish is to follow this rule. So eventually, u are going to have to think about upgrading ur tank, or rehoming some of the fish. In the meantime u can possibly set up a rubbermaid container as a temporary home for some of the fish.. Add a filter and bubble wand and ur good to go. Next... ur water changes are on the small site, especially considering how many fish you have in there..Don't get me wrong - u are doing MUCH better than A LOT of people I see on here... I've seen people who dont change their water at ALL! But you will need to start doing at least 50% a week minimum once you get ur tank to the right stocking level. And until then u may need to do more, or twice weekly changes. It sounds like a lot I know. But unfortunately in overstocked tanks there is no other way.. I hope all of this does not overwhelm u! I remember when I was told the same things and at first I thought "WHAT?! This is INSANE?!" lolol I just want to make sure you have all the facts.. Now.... lets deal with that Ich! well...i am aware of the..10g/fish rule but the problem is, this is really my aunts tank and i just "take care" of it and she DEF does not want just 3 fish in there (trust me i TRIED). she once put 5 small cichlids in a 5 gallon hex tank..=x which of course died... anyway, seeing that theres no way around overstocking with my aunt, i convinced her to buy a rena canister filter on top of the 2 HOB filters we already had...and i thought that with 660 gal/hr total filtration rate that that would alleviate the pollution issue a bit. even though "theres no such thing as over-filtration, but at 660 gal/hr in a 36 gal tank, i mean that should be ok right? and is that 10g/fish rule more of a pollution issue...or room to grow issue? i know im kinda all over the place..lol sorry...its late..
  5. i love my marineland filters..i have 2 penguins and 1 emperor..i LOVE the emperor...i also just use filter floss..i cut open the cartidges and just reuse the plastic tray...sometimes my bio wheel does stop spinning too tho...but its weird..(since i have 2) i just switch them and they work well. but really if you want the good HOB filters...go with marinelands emperor line...they come with a spray bar that sprays onto the biowheel so it ensures that it never stops spinning.
  6. i have bettas!!! im alsoo on ultimatebettas.com with the same name...lol sorry just had to drop by
  7. Sakura is absolutely right. Ich IS a parasite that is best treated with salt.. :-) I'll get into more detail in a minute on that. Now before anything else, could I please have you fill out this ENTIRE box of questions? That way we don't miss out on something important? [*]Test Results for the Following: [*]Ammonia Level? [*]Nitrite Level? [*]Nitrate level? [*]Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)? [*]Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)? [*]Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? [*]Water temperature? [*]Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? [*]What is the name and size of the filter(s)? [*]How often do you change the water and how much? [*]How many fish in the tank and their size? [*]What kind of water additives or conditioners? [*]What do you feed your fish and how often? [*]Any new fish added to the tank? [*]Any medications added to the tank? [*]Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? [*]Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? The Jungle Parasite Clear that u are using treats many parasites, including flukes which it sounds like is what u were treating for. Its all all around medication designed to treat the majority of parasites.. It contains prazi for the flukes and the acriflavine should treat the ich. BUT you are asbolutely right in that it is a harsher med, some weaker fish will be bothered by it, AND also it can effect your biologicial filter in a negative way. Now, first of all, Ich gets worse before it gets better. Once u start ANY Ich treatment u will see the white spots get worse before they get better. So dont panick! :-) Second, although u CAN use the current medication, it is MUCH more preferable that u removed the meds completely and treated with salt and prazi alone. It's much less stressful on the fish. If you choose to use the salt, its very simple. First step will be to do a large water change. Full water change if possible, remembering to use temperature matched dechlorinated water. Next you want to remember that you will be adding the salt in steps so that u do not shock the fish. You will add 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon of water. Then wait 12 hours. At that time add ANOTHER 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon. Wait ANOTHER 12 hours. And finally, add one MORE teaspoon of salt per gallon of water. This brings you to three teaspoons of salt per gallon which is a concentration of 0.3% salt which is enough to kill MOST parasites. After u've salted there a few more things to remember. 1) when u do a water change u are removing the salt, so you must add back what u took out. If you take out 5 gallons of water at 0.3% salt you are removing 15 tsp of salt and u must put that back in. Its very smart to keep a log of what is in your water. 2) water changes are very important right now! Gravel vacuum thoroughly! I'll end here for now, I would like to go over ur answers to the box of questions b4 adding anything else but that should give u a good start! :-) [*]Test Results for the Following: [*]Ammonia Level? 0 [*]Nitrite Level? 0 [*]Nitrate level? <20 ppm (30ppm on original post was a typo) [*]Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)? ph - 8.0 [*]Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)? n/a [*]Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API Freshwater Master Test Kit (liquid) [*]Water temperature? 72 * F [*]Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 36 gallons / about a year and a half [*]What is the name and size of the filter(s)? Marineland Emperor 280 HOB, Marineland Penguin 200 HOB, Rena XP1 Canister Filter [*]How often do you change the water and how much? about 25% every week, 50% every month [*]How many fish in the tank and their size? 2 orandas, 2 lionheads, 2 fantails, 1 telescope - all goldfishes are medium sized, about 3 inches w/o tails [*]What kind of water additives or conditioners? prime water conditioner [*]What do you feed your fish and how often? omega one pellets, hai feng goldfish food, hikari brine shrimp, freeze dried plankton..3 times a day/variety of these day to day. [*]Any new fish added to the tank? all fish are new except one fantail [*]Any medications added to the tank? Jungle Labs Parasite Clear [*]Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? signs of ich spots starting to show [*]Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? the telescope isnt too active but the rest seem good. other info : i used to take care of this tank but moved away for a year and came back to find out that the other goldfish had died and left with only 1 fantail. During my time not living here my cousin had bought 2 small plecos. So we added the other 6 fish but the pleco attacked one of the new fish. so now the plecos are in a seperate 20g tank. sorry if i left anything out and i really appreciate your quick and very indepth answers. thank you.
  8. thanks for the quick reply either way. lets see, unfortunately i dont have money for a heater for my 36g right now(theyre pretty pricey!!) so i cant raise the temp but i suppose i can buy salt but have no experience using salt, other than what i have read from this forum and im kind of scared to...so anymore info would be appreciated as far as salt.
  9. Im treating my tank for parasites right now and I couldn't get any Aqua-Prazi or any PraziPro, so Im using Jungle Lab's Parasite Clear. Ive read the post about it and I know the acriflavine might be too harsh for my goldfishes, but I thought better this than nothing at all. Anyway, im 2 days into the treatment and now im seeing signs of Ich on a couple of them. So, my question is, could I combine these 2 treatments? If so, how would the water changes be affected? Please help. water parameters temp = 72*F ammonia = 0 nitrite = 0 nitrate = < 30
  10. feeding stays the same with prazi treatment right?
  11. things you'll need : medicine dropper (you can get at nnnnnn in the pharmacy section) pure ammonia WITHOUT any surfactant or any other additives (i got my bottle from ACE HARDWARE) first you need to see how much ammmonia it will take for your 20g tank to reach 4ppm you can do this by taking a 1 gallon bucket of water and adding ammmonia to it until you reach 4ppm...then you can estimate how much youll need for the 20g tank once you figure that out, you want to set up your tank and filter and have everything running. then, add the proper amount of ammonia then everyday after that...add that same amount of ammonia for about over a week or so or maybe even longer. since your adding the same amount of ammonia everyday , obviously that ammonia will keep building up...so when testing the water..you want to look for a drop in those ammonia levels. when that happens you'll know that you have the bacteria growing. once you see that ammonia drop, you want to cut the dose of ammonia drops by half, and keep adding that until you see the nitrite spike, and eventually 0 nitrite readings. im going off the top of my head from what i can remember, and its been over a year now since i did it...but if you google FISHLESS cycling..theres a lot of articles that should be very helpful. ill add more stuff if i remember any. hope that helps
  12. lol i swear ill get some up sometime this upcomign week...ima borrow my cousins 15 mp camera although they are starting to lose their color already tho...but i still love them and also..i think they ARE males....i see the breeding tubercles on the leading fin ray on their pectoral fins...but...i dont see any on the gill plates? does it need to be on both? also righ tnow im treating all of them with PARASITE CLEAR...any1 have experience with it? i did a search on it here...but i was wondering if the water is suppose to turn green....and none of the past posts mentioned anything about it
  13. hmm hes not that big..maybe 3.5 inches w/o the tail? and yes mine does have a HUGE wen..and REALLY puffy cheeks that covers his eyes.....and my tank stats are ammonia - 0 nitrite - 0 nitrate - about 20 ppm temp - 73 degrees i just tried feeding him again right now...and he ate, all is good!! lol..ill try to get pictures up..i have a camera but REALLY bad quality..ima borrow a good 1..and ill post them for sures.. thanks everyone for the help and ill keep u guys updated
  14. also, are orandas eyes normally smaller than other types of goldfishes? like my orandas eye's seems WAY smaller compared to the lionheads and fantail...im thinking he has a hard time finding food...because when i dropped him into the 20...he eventually ate one pellet but that was after several attempts to get him to eat and had put the pellet right in front of him as it sank...idk if im making any sesnse, sorry im all over the place..but what do u guys think?
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