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Everything posted by spillie

  1. Sad;y, he died the day after I wrote back to Koko's post. I had just got my 20 long out of storage to set up for him, but when I went to the big tank, he had passed away. It's such a mystery to me how big goldfish, which have lived long enough with a breeder to get so big, can suddenly develop swim bladder. He was fine when I bought him and this started after about a week in my big tank. All I can think is, absent a bacterial problem, it must be the food (pellets), even if presoaked. I am not sure... there were also high nitrates at the beginning because of cycle bump. Seem like it must be one or the other, as he had no other symptoms-- no pineconing, no bloody steaks, was eating normally---what do you think?
  2. Thank you, Koko! I'll see if I can find duckweed and give that a try. I know an aquarium plant guy who I think has it just growing in several of his tanks,
  3. I have a butterfly oranda who goes vertical when he stop swimming, He rests on his tail, vertically (head up) on the tank bottom or floats up vertically. But as soon as he starts to swim, he swims totally normally. Other fish are fine. I don't know if is the weight of his tail or a health issue. The guy I bought him from advised me to raise the heat to 76 and add salt. I did raise the tank temp today, but it doesn't seem to have made a difference. I have not yet added salt. He also told me to fast him two days--but I have already tried that with no change in the vertical thing. He started doing this shortly after I added him to the big tank, but definitely did not in he two weeks he was in the 20 G long QT tank. He has been in the big tank about 4 weeks or so. I did have high nitrites in the beginning as had a cycle bump. Now zero. Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank) 0 * Nitrite Level(Tank) 0 * Nitrate level(Tank) If you have a test kit, take these readings before you do a water change. If you don't have a test kit and can't get one immediately, please take samples of tank and tap water to your fish /pet store and request a test. Demand numbers for each test. 20 before yesterday's water change, 10 now (30 hours later) * Ammonia Level(Tap) * Nitrite Level(Tap) * Nitrate level(Tap) Please test tap water. It may contain ammonia or nitrate. Tap water often varies in quality with weather/season, so don't just report an old test. * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Difference in the pH of tank and tap can cause distress in your fish. We need both tap and tank results. 7.4 * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) If you don't have KH and GH tests and have municipal water, you can often get this information from the water company. 7.4 Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? Please answer both brand and type. API drops * Water temperature? If you don't use a heater, give the the air temperature. 70 usually, just raised to 76 * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? Please answer both questions. If you aren't sure of the volume of the tank, give the length, width, and height. 135 gallons, running about 2.5 or 3 months. Bare bottom tank with a rock and piece of driftwood and an airstone. * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? By the "size" of the filter we mean the gph/lph that it claims to turn over. Fluval FX6 * How often do you change the water and how much? Please answer both questions. Twice a week, 80% * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Please answer both questions. yesterday 80% * How many fish in the tank and their size? 1 butterfly oranda 4.5", 1 telecope 4", 1 oranda 2.5", 2 orandas 1.5", 1 oranda 1.25" (6 total) * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Water conditioner means the agent used against chlorine. If you don't use a water conditioner, say why, for example, "well water." "Water additives" include anything else that you regularly or recently have added to your water, including buffers, water clarifiers, algaecides, etc. Fritz ammonia. chlorine and cloramine remover * What do you feed your fish and how often? Give the brand, type of food (sinking/floating pellets, gel food, steamed vegetable, etc.), and how frequently you feed each. North Fin goldfish food, once a day, sinking pellets. * Any new fish added to the tank? If you have added new fish in the past few months, indicate which ones, the duration of quarantine, and any treatments you used during quarantine. 5 fish (inlcudinh this one) were added to the original fish about 1 month + ago after 2 weeks QT. No treatment during QT * Any medications added to the tank? This includes any used recently or currently in the tank. Added prazi to big tank when i first added the 5 fish to the big tank (I had not received it when they were in QT). * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. This can be a long answer if you have a sickly fish. You can link to old D/D threads if we have advised on treatment before. Only Prazi, two treatments 4 days apart or so. * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? List all physical symptoms. No * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? List all behavioral symptoms. Rest on his tail with his head straight up on the tank of floats up vertically,
  4. Thanks, they seem to be doing better. Not sure what the issue was/is. I think my test kit (API drops) may be too old--could it be?--as I just tested my tap nitrates and it came up at 5 (which I know it is not) and I did all the proper bottle shaking/test tub shaking. I also threw out the almost-empty bottle of pond prime, in case it was no longer working properly. I'll some back if I see the signs again, but for now, they seem back to normal. The deaths started when I had added the new fish, but I'd had the original 8 in there a year without any issues (100G plus about 5 in the filter/50% weekly water changes). Each set of deaths were very sudden and within days of each other. Then a few months with all being well between sets of deaths. I only have 5 fish in there now, so we'll see how it goes.
  5. Hi all, I have had several unexplained goldfish deaths in the past few months. All had been running well for a year before and I had all my original fish. The trouble started when I got a new, healthy looking fish in late May. I QTed him for a week while treating with Parasite Guard as a precaution. (I usually do two weeks but this time was traveling so i ended it early--he went into the main tank in early June). He was healthy, active, throughout. Four weeks later, while still traveling, I was told that five of my then-ten fish had died, including the new one (I did not see, so do not what symptoms they had, was just told they died.) 5 weeks ago weeks ago I got some new fish and QTed for two weeks, again with Parasite Guard, then added to the tank. All looked very healthy when added. Now I have just had four deaths in the past 10 days and (2 original fish and 2 of the new ones) and 2 more look like they are having issues. No bloating, no raised scales, no bloody streaks, no ulcers, no cotton wool , no bulging eyes--I don't know what to make of this. The affected fish start hanging at the top, then start bottom sitting, then weaken over a few days, then die. One of the two fish beginning to have symptoms now, the oranda, does seem to have a white soft/slightly fuzzy-looking patch on the front ray of his dorsal fin. Not sure if it is torn and healing tissue or if it is fungus---it is minimal and no where else. But the other fish that died since I have been back had nothing similar. This oranda is now hanging tail down at the surface and gulping air, though able to swim mid-level. All the other fish are swimming around normally except a fantail. That one seems weak, swimming around some, but otherwise bottom sitting. If he follows the pattern, in the next day or two he will start hanging at the surface, then weaken and die. Tested water today after a 30% water change (50% is changed weekly, this was a second water change) and nitrates were high at 80--not sure why. Did another 50% water change and now at 40. I did a full filter clean today before the first water change. (Fluval FX6--clean every 2 months). It wasn't very dirty. What to do? I have on hand salt, metronidazole, triple sulfa, furan 2, kanamycin, neoplex, maracyn plus. Also something called Wipe Out that is a bacterial control oxolinic acid med. I have used no meds thus far. ----------------------------- Tank size: 100 gallons/running about a year and a half. Bare bottom. No live plants--it has one fake plant, an airstone, and fish--that's all that's in there. Temp: about 75 degrees F (no heater-- I live in the tropics) No of fish: 9 two weeks ago (then 2 died), 7 this morning (then 1 died), 6 now. 1 new fish added in June, 5 new fish added about 4 weeks ago-mid Sept. All fish were treated for parasites in QT. Filter: Fluval FX6 Water changes: 50% weekly on Tuesdays; 30% then another 50% today (Sunday). PH: 7.6 Nitrates: 80 (!), then 40 after second water change today [I can't explain the high reading with the weekly water changes--maybe skipped last week?] Nitrites: 0 Ammonia: 0 KH/GH--very low (I can't remember the reading, but it is like the lowest or second-lowest reading on the chart). I do not buffer the water. Water additives: prime only Medications added to tank: none Food: 1/4 teaspoon New Life Spectrum regular goldfish food once or sometimes twice a day Symptoms: hanging near the surface and gulping and/or bottom sitting, then weakening and dying. No bloating, no raised scales, no bloody streaks, no ulcers, etc. Fish look normal, but die. Any idea what this is and what to do to treat? Appreciate your help!
  6. I have assassin snails (they are actually whelks) and they completely eradicated the huge and fast producing pond snail/ramshorn populations in my trop tank. Completely. I had a huge infestation of those pests despite always inspecting, rinsing, and PPing my plants before adding them to the tank. It took about 3 months to get rid of them completely as I recall--I put 8-10 assassins in my 100 G tank. They themselves reproduce, but much more slowly. Once the snails are gone, they just eat fishfood. Now, a year or more later, I have a heap of assassins, but I rarely see them as they dig into the sand and tend to come out only at night. When I leave Korea, I have no doubt that my LFS will be happy to take them all and resell them, as they are real problem solvers in planted tanks and hard to find. The only downside is that I had to remove my beloved nerites, which kept my tank crystal clear, to keep them safe from gangs of assassins. (They just went in the goldfish tank.) That said, doing it over, I'd remove the fish if I could and try a puffer for a month first next time. (Of course, I guess I'd then have a puffer that would need to be set up its own tank and the end of this, unless I could find a "loaner puffer".) Prior to turning to assassins, btw, I broke down the tank and PPed it and plants again, but snails came back anyway. Frankly, I have my doubts about the full effectiveness of PP when it comes to snails/eggs (not sure which are surviving the PP treatment, my guess is the latter), but moved to PP from bleach some time ago as bleach treatments caused too much damage (killed) the less hardy plants. I tried alum, too, on new plants prior to putting in the aquarium, but haven't enough experience with it to really speak to its effectiveness in killing snails/eggs--it doesn't seems to hurt the plants, though.
  7. What horrible thing to have happen. I am so very sorry to hear your lost your fish like this, really, I am. To me, too, it sounds like a water issue, especially since no new fish have been added. Normally, the first thing you do when you suspect a water quality issue is water changes, but what do you do when you are not sure you can trust your water? Could there be anything tied to the specific room? A few years ago a member lost healthy fish when febreeze or something similar was sprayed there. I have bookmarked a link to an article on non-disease causes of fish illness, covers chloramine poisoning and others. You can find it if you google "are you fish really suffering from disease sympatico". Maybe that will help with some answers if it was environmental. RE R/O water, the water parameters are probably different than what your tap water, so maybe a good idea to test first and, if quite different, post back here to see if members can advise on how to handle to minimize stress on your fish. In this case, you may want to get some Buff it Up or similar to try to normalize conditions for them if it is indeed quite different. Do you have some extra pumps and bubblers? Some extra O2 would be a good idea, I think. I personally might hold back on meds at the moment, at least until a MOD can advise. I have had fish with septicemia, but I have never had fish hemorrhage blood in the water. It seems they were bleeding internally from some cause. I had one fish that had got sick and had blood pooling that I could see in her abdomen, but it was all internal, and no other fish were affected. The fact that most of your fish were hit so quickly, and no new fish in the tank, seems to me to point to an environmental factor, but that fact that your other tanks are fine makes me less sure. I hope your remaining fish will be OK.
  8. Just to follow-up on this, in case anyone else has the same problem, the slimy stuff definitely is coming from the new (soft) rubber items in the tank (the suction cup and the rubber on the heater probe cap and holder). Over the course of 48 hours or so, I can see it begin to develop, but now I am wiping it off every 2-3 days, so that "mulm" is no longer breaking off and littering the substrate, accumulating in the filter, or floating about the water. The betta has showed some interest in nibbling the bit that develops, but it doesn't seem to hurt him (and since I am wiping it away so frequently, not much accumulates in any event). I expect this will just go away once whatever is leaching from the new rubber bits has diminished. (And, I have the pothos in there now to help with the nitrates or any nutrient buildup.)
  9. Is the ceramic rod inside the impeller broken, by chance? I've had to replace my impeller on my eheim canister in the past. You can get a replacement impeller and/or shaft. There are two types for your model as it was redesigned at some point. Also, as a first step, try soaking the impeller and inside of the impeller chamber with a 50/50 solution of white vinegar and water for about 20 minutes and then wipe to get off any additional gunk. (And then rinse well before starting everything up again/connection back to the tank.) I had issues with a pump that stopped. After getting a new impeller and wiping it out, it ran again, but not smoothly--and the vinegar/water solution solved the problem.
  10. I did a partial water change today and found little bits of filmy stuff floating all over the tank, so ended up doing a 100% change again, wiping all the ornaments as well as the rubber and the silicone seams of the tank. There was the most slimy stuff on the silicone and rubber, a bit on the ornaments, but more like it settled there than grew there. I guess it will come back again, if it is something in the new rubber/silicone (this is a pretty new tank) that creates the condition for this moldy/slimy stuff to grow, but hopefully will go away after awhile. I think it is what was caused that mysterious "mulm" stuff, too. Anyway, at the moment, tanks looks good, pothos roots are dangling in from the top, and I put a bit of salt in the water to help with the ragged tail. Still no idea what this stuff actually is, but everything I read says it goes away eventually! I am going to do some daily wiping for awhile to try to keep it from developing to the point that these bits of it end up everywhere. (I am also going to hold off on the betta spa/Indian Almond leaf for while, in case that adds to the nutrients for this fungus somehow)
  11. Interesting--I have been googling and found many references to this kind of fungus/mold on new rubber suction cups. Something in the rubber seems to feed it somehow. No clear answer on what it is exactly, however, at least not this far...
  12. Hmm.. don't think it is over feeding. He gets three little betta pellets twice a day, and eats all of them. Plus, everything was disinfected with PP a week ago and then when I set the tank up again, it was 100% new water of course. (I haven't yet skipped a cleaning--tomorrow is my day to do it and is just a week since the complete re-start of the tank last weekend. ) Pothos is a great idea. I have it in my goldie tank and can easily move some over to the betta tank. And with pothos, I do not need to worry about aquarium lights because they'll be fine with room light--which would be great as the top of this tank is plastic that warps easily with heat. Pothos goes in tomorrow! Here's a better pic of the moldy looking stuff--can you see that it is fuzzy a bit better? Whatever it is, it likes growing on the rubber cap and probe holder, but not on the hard plastic of the probe itself. All that is grey in the pic is this weird moldy stuff-the rubber itself of the cap, holder and suction cup is in fact black.
  13. I know, it's strange, right? I have no idea why it has such high nitrates after just one week--esp. in such a big tank with just one small betta. I even checked the expiration date on my API test kit (it's good through 2018). It is possible that the water last week had higher nitrates, I suppose. There seems to be no way to account for it. He gets fed twice a day, but just three pellets each time. The mold is the light grey/whitish stuff completely covering the cap of the temp probe and the square plastic piece that holds the probe to the suction cup. All these pieces are actually black (when there is no mold on it). The camera doesn't capture it, but it is fuzzy, like cotton sort of. I do have a filter on there (an azoo palm filter)--it is small and has a light flow. Maybe I should put carbon in there? I change about 40% once a week. In this case, all was 100% new last Sunday and I will change the water (and vacuum up the mulm stuff/wipe off the mold stuff) tomorrow. Hmm.. maybe I need to make this a planted tank to get things sorted..
  14. I have one betta in a 10 G tank with a heater at 79F, a palm filter (with small bag of media and a sponge, but no carbon), and a small air stone. Décor is Caribsea instant aquarium sand as the substrate, silk plants, and a betta log. About a week ago I broke the tank down and gave it, filter, and all ornaments a long PP treatment as I had hydra all over (must have been transferred from my planted tank--still puzzling over that, as I can't think of anything I shared, but I must have done). Set the tank up again with all new water, new sand from the bag, and a new titanium heater. Prime and betta spa in the water. I used Safe Start 48 hours I set the tank up again to restore the cycle. So here we are, a week in with this completely newly sterilized tank, and I have a whitish fungus growing on the cap of the temperature probe, a small amount on the ornaments and on the silk leaves, and what looks like plant mulm on the sand surface--even though I have no live plants. I am perplexed. Ph is 7.6 Ammonia is 0 Nitrites are 0 Nitrates are 80 (!) and from tap 40 (!)--but though high, this is the same water my other tanks have, none of which have fungus! The closest of my others in setup to the betta tank is a 20G tank with a golden gourami that also has silk plants, a heater, and an air stone (though no sand on the bottom--it has a different substrate and a larger filter). No mold in there, though. What could be causing this and what do you think I can do about it? Could it be the water that came in the bag of sand--which I opened last year some time? Something from the betta spa? I am really perplexed as the tank was just sterilized, as I said, and it had 100% new water a week ago. The betta himself is fine, though his tail is a little ragged. I do have nitraban, fungus guard, etc. mold on top cap of temperature probe and also growing on square part: "mulm" stuff on base of plant and sand in corner The tank (have not done the weekly cleaning)
  15. I came across this article on BBC yesterday on making a 200x microscope from a webcam. 200x should enable you to see flukes, costia, ich, and other parasites from what I understand. There are very clear step by step pictures on how to make this in the slide show for anyone who wants to give it a try! http://www.bbc.co.uk/science/0/22600308
  16. I put the poor little guy to sleep this morning. He was on his side almost continuously the last day or so and finding it harder and harder to swim, and was getting red streaks in his body and tail again. I felt so sad, as he was true fighter, and just kept hanging on, but I felt that he was suffering....
  17. I am happy to say that his red marks are almost completely gone. Since they appeared while he was on MMs and went away while he treated with Rid Ich, and since his poo has been normal, I fear it may well have been costia and now wondering what to do about my big 150 g tank. The bad news is that he is lying on his side and weak. He swims, but quickly rests again. Not sure what to do next. I leave tomorrow. Continue MMs, and..?
  18. Today, the good news is that the popeye is much diminished and her poo strangely looks normal again and I think she is eating MMs. However, she is still terrible swollen and pineconing. Am just doing a 100 percent water change. I leave tomorrow, until then, will just keep doing what I am doing, unless there is new guidance, and hope for the best.
  19. It is so true..why is that? She is much the same this morning, except that she is losing lots of slime coat? Why would that be? I tested the ph, but it is the same as usual, 7.6, and the water was all new last night. I definitely added prime, so it it's not that. The epsom did not seem to help her much. She is horribly swollen and both eyes are popping out now. It is much worse than the photo I posted above. As you predicted, Alex, this "behind the gills" dropsy is very aggressive. I have never had this happen before like this--my previous dropsy cases started at the back and the pineconing got bad, but this terrible swelling to this extent is new to me. If she is not better by this evening, I may consider euthanizing her as she must be suffering so...
  20. Thanks! I have to say I do not think this is going to end well, both her eyes are popping out now...but fingers crossed...
  21. Thanks-I will! I just did almost a full water change (as called for by the Rid Ich directions) and redosed, but I had actually not thought to pull out waste between changes.
  22. Oh no, what a terrible shame. He was a truly lovely and unique looking fish. To have something happen like this is so sad and frustrating. I am sorry you lost him.... RIP Cow.
  23. Thank you so much Alex. I really appreciate your help, as always. I still am trying to figure out how you never sleep... I wondered about trying salt, but I think that ruins the dirt and of course all my fish were QTed at .3% when I got them. PP at least breaks down. I think Rid Ich does, too, but not sure if both the formalin and the malachite green do, or if only one does. The blue pretty much disappeared from the Rid Ich Plus-treated QT water by this evening, so some part of it is breaking down. I have lots of organic matter in the big tank, that's one issue--both PP and Rid Ich will bind to it. PP would get everything, not sure about Rid Ich. PP would kill my filter, though. Rid Ich Plus apparently doesn't. As long as it did not stain my acrylic it would be OK (I have PPed the tank before and it was fine--it is high quality, thick, cell cast acrylic). My little lionhead, meanwhile, seems to be feeling better. When he rests, he still lists and leans on his face, but he has been swimming around a lot, unlike yesterday. He is missing a lot of scales along his upper side--maybe three or four rows of them all along his back--there are just none there. Another costia indication, or something else? I have never had a fish lose a big swath of scales like that before. (This is not new, I first noticed it some months ago, but didn't worry about it at the time as I thought he scraped himself getting trapped behind a big piece of drift wood I used to have in there. The driftwood that is now in my trop tank, so I guess now have costia, if that is what it is, in that tank, too. It was out of the water for a few months, but I understand costia can survive drying out. I may have PPed it, I usually do when moving things from one tank to another, but it is really big so can't remember if I managed to do it or not.) Anyway, I just expected they would slowly grow back, but they never did.
  24. I am sorry to say that things have gone from bad to worse. She is now clearly pineconing on her right side bedind the gill area and has developed popeye on that side. She is not eating her MMs. I have Metro powder, Maracycn 2, and Maracyn Plus--should I add one of those to the water and if so, which one do you think? Poor girl, she is very, very swollen. I also added Epsom just now (1/2 teasp in 10G).
  25. I have the other ranchu (orange one) I wrote about in the other thread who is starting to pinecone a little, and she seems to have some excess slime coat--I notices a bit of something stuck to it/trailing off it this morning and is lethargic/bottom sitting mostly. One of my orandas is often lethargic and has been for two years, but I think that is his nature. The others are all active and normal. I was thinking the fact that the red marks largely went away overnight with the Rid Ich meant it was costia, but maybe it is bacterial/viral. Or maybe both? His poo is not clear, it looks normal, but he does have that bruising. On the other hand, he has been resting on his face in a colander for 14 days (like in the third pic at the first set of photos--he has a bigger bruise right where his face is resting). I have no idea, really. Anyway, he is perking up more as the day goes on, but curling at rest. When this whole thing started, I thought he was curling up due to his SBD. Not sure now if it is that (as he is eating MMs instead of super green) or bacterial or costia or both or ..? He is on about day 14 of MMs now. They worked in the beginning, but not so much the past few days (in the sense that he is curling more again, though that may be his system getting all impacted again--he is very sensitive to dry foods). The little red marks that were in his tail, etc., did not appear until the last 24 hours. Now they are gone from his tail body, but he seems to have these red areas under the skin. Could that be infection from where costia dug in?
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