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spillie

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About spillie

  • Rank
    Level 15

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  • Gender
    Female
  • Age
    45
  • Location
    Korea
  • Referred By
    google
  • How many Goldfish
    5

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  1. Thanks, they seem to be doing better. Not sure what the issue was/is. I think my test kit (API drops) may be too old--could it be?--as I just tested my tap nitrates and it came up at 5 (which I know it is not) and I did all the proper bottle shaking/test tub shaking. I also threw out the almost-empty bottle of pond prime, in case it was no longer working properly. I'll some back if I see the signs again, but for now, they seem back to normal. The deaths started when I had added the new fish, but I'd had the original 8 in there a year without any issues (100G plus about 5 in the filter/50% weekly water changes). Each set of deaths were very sudden and within days of each other. Then a few months with all being well between sets of deaths. I only have 5 fish in there now, so we'll see how it goes.
  2. Hi all, I have had several unexplained goldfish deaths in the past few months. All had been running well for a year before and I had all my original fish. The trouble started when I got a new, healthy looking fish in late May. I QTed him for a week while treating with Parasite Guard as a precaution. (I usually do two weeks but this time was traveling so i ended it early--he went into the main tank in early June). He was healthy, active, throughout. Four weeks later, while still traveling, I was told that five of my then-ten fish had died, including the new one (I did not see, so do not what symptoms they had, was just told they died.) 5 weeks ago weeks ago I got some new fish and QTed for two weeks, again with Parasite Guard, then added to the tank. All looked very healthy when added. Now I have just had four deaths in the past 10 days and (2 original fish and 2 of the new ones) and 2 more look like they are having issues. No bloating, no raised scales, no bloody streaks, no ulcers, no cotton wool , no bulging eyes--I don't know what to make of this. The affected fish start hanging at the top, then start bottom sitting, then weaken over a few days, then die. One of the two fish beginning to have symptoms now, the oranda, does seem to have a white soft/slightly fuzzy-looking patch on the front ray of his dorsal fin. Not sure if it is torn and healing tissue or if it is fungus---it is minimal and no where else. But the other fish that died since I have been back had nothing similar. This oranda is now hanging tail down at the surface and gulping air, though able to swim mid-level. All the other fish are swimming around normally except a fantail. That one seems weak, swimming around some, but otherwise bottom sitting. If he follows the pattern, in the next day or two he will start hanging at the surface, then weaken and die. Tested water today after a 30% water change (50% is changed weekly, this was a second water change) and nitrates were high at 80--not sure why. Did another 50% water change and now at 40. I did a full filter clean today before the first water change. (Fluval FX6--clean every 2 months). It wasn't very dirty. What to do? I have on hand salt, metronidazole, triple sulfa, furan 2, kanamycin, neoplex, maracyn plus. Also something called Wipe Out that is a bacterial control oxolinic acid med. I have used no meds thus far. ----------------------------- Tank size: 100 gallons/running about a year and a half. Bare bottom. No live plants--it has one fake plant, an airstone, and fish--that's all that's in there. Temp: about 75 degrees F (no heater-- I live in the tropics) No of fish: 9 two weeks ago (then 2 died), 7 this morning (then 1 died), 6 now. 1 new fish added in June, 5 new fish added about 4 weeks ago-mid Sept. All fish were treated for parasites in QT. Filter: Fluval FX6 Water changes: 50% weekly on Tuesdays; 30% then another 50% today (Sunday). PH: 7.6 Nitrates: 80 (!), then 40 after second water change today [I can't explain the high reading with the weekly water changes--maybe skipped last week?] Nitrites: 0 Ammonia: 0 KH/GH--very low (I can't remember the reading, but it is like the lowest or second-lowest reading on the chart). I do not buffer the water. Water additives: prime only Medications added to tank: none Food: 1/4 teaspoon New Life Spectrum regular goldfish food once or sometimes twice a day Symptoms: hanging near the surface and gulping and/or bottom sitting, then weakening and dying. No bloating, no raised scales, no bloody streaks, no ulcers, etc. Fish look normal, but die. Any idea what this is and what to do to treat? Appreciate your help!
  3. I have assassin snails (they are actually whelks) and they completely eradicated the huge and fast producing pond snail/ramshorn populations in my trop tank. Completely. I had a huge infestation of those pests despite always inspecting, rinsing, and PPing my plants before adding them to the tank. It took about 3 months to get rid of them completely as I recall--I put 8-10 assassins in my 100 G tank. They themselves reproduce, but much more slowly. Once the snails are gone, they just eat fishfood. Now, a year or more later, I have a heap of assassins, but I rarely see them as they dig into the sand and tend to come out only at night. When I leave Korea, I have no doubt that my LFS will be happy to take them all and resell them, as they are real problem solvers in planted tanks and hard to find. The only downside is that I had to remove my beloved nerites, which kept my tank crystal clear, to keep them safe from gangs of assassins. (They just went in the goldfish tank.) That said, doing it over, I'd remove the fish if I could and try a puffer for a month first next time. (Of course, I guess I'd then have a puffer that would need to be set up its own tank and the end of this, unless I could find a "loaner puffer".) Prior to turning to assassins, btw, I broke down the tank and PPed it and plants again, but snails came back anyway. Frankly, I have my doubts about the full effectiveness of PP when it comes to snails/eggs (not sure which are surviving the PP treatment, my guess is the latter), but moved to PP from bleach some time ago as bleach treatments caused too much damage (killed) the less hardy plants. I tried alum, too, on new plants prior to putting in the aquarium, but haven't enough experience with it to really speak to its effectiveness in killing snails/eggs--it doesn't seems to hurt the plants, though.
  4. What horrible thing to have happen. I am so very sorry to hear your lost your fish like this, really, I am. To me, too, it sounds like a water issue, especially since no new fish have been added. Normally, the first thing you do when you suspect a water quality issue is water changes, but what do you do when you are not sure you can trust your water? Could there be anything tied to the specific room? A few years ago a member lost healthy fish when febreeze or something similar was sprayed there. I have bookmarked a link to an article on non-disease causes of fish illness, covers chloramine poisoning and others. You can find it if you google "are you fish really suffering from disease sympatico". Maybe that will help with some answers if it was environmental. RE R/O water, the water parameters are probably different than what your tap water, so maybe a good idea to test first and, if quite different, post back here to see if members can advise on how to handle to minimize stress on your fish. In this case, you may want to get some Buff it Up or similar to try to normalize conditions for them if it is indeed quite different. Do you have some extra pumps and bubblers? Some extra O2 would be a good idea, I think. I personally might hold back on meds at the moment, at least until a MOD can advise. I have had fish with septicemia, but I have never had fish hemorrhage blood in the water. It seems they were bleeding internally from some cause. I had one fish that had got sick and had blood pooling that I could see in her abdomen, but it was all internal, and no other fish were affected. The fact that most of your fish were hit so quickly, and no new fish in the tank, seems to me to point to an environmental factor, but that fact that your other tanks are fine makes me less sure. I hope your remaining fish will be OK.
  5. Is the ceramic rod inside the impeller broken, by chance? I've had to replace my impeller on my eheim canister in the past. You can get a replacement impeller and/or shaft. There are two types for your model as it was redesigned at some point. Also, as a first step, try soaking the impeller and inside of the impeller chamber with a 50/50 solution of white vinegar and water for about 20 minutes and then wipe to get off any additional gunk. (And then rinse well before starting everything up again/connection back to the tank.) I had issues with a pump that stopped. After getting a new impeller and wiping it out, it ran again, but not smoothly--and the vinegar/water solution solved the problem.
  6. I came across this article on BBC yesterday on making a 200x microscope from a webcam. 200x should enable you to see flukes, costia, ich, and other parasites from what I understand. There are very clear step by step pictures on how to make this in the slide show for anyone who wants to give it a try! http://www.bbc.co.uk/science/0/22600308
  7. I put the poor little guy to sleep this morning. He was on his side almost continuously the last day or so and finding it harder and harder to swim, and was getting red streaks in his body and tail again. I felt so sad, as he was true fighter, and just kept hanging on, but I felt that he was suffering....
  8. I am happy to say that his red marks are almost completely gone. Since they appeared while he was on MMs and went away while he treated with Rid Ich, and since his poo has been normal, I fear it may well have been costia and now wondering what to do about my big 150 g tank. The bad news is that he is lying on his side and weak. He swims, but quickly rests again. Not sure what to do next. I leave tomorrow. Continue MMs, and..?
  9. Today, the good news is that the popeye is much diminished and her poo strangely looks normal again and I think she is eating MMs. However, she is still terrible swollen and pineconing. Am just doing a 100 percent water change. I leave tomorrow, until then, will just keep doing what I am doing, unless there is new guidance, and hope for the best.
  10. It is so true..why is that? She is much the same this morning, except that she is losing lots of slime coat? Why would that be? I tested the ph, but it is the same as usual, 7.6, and the water was all new last night. I definitely added prime, so it it's not that. The epsom did not seem to help her much. She is horribly swollen and both eyes are popping out now. It is much worse than the photo I posted above. As you predicted, Alex, this "behind the gills" dropsy is very aggressive. I have never had this happen before like this--my previous dropsy cases started at the back and the pineconing got bad, but this terrible swelling to this extent is new to me. If she is not better by this evening, I may consider euthanizing her as she must be suffering so...
  11. Thanks! I have to say I do not think this is going to end well, both her eyes are popping out now...but fingers crossed...
  12. Thanks-I will! I just did almost a full water change (as called for by the Rid Ich directions) and redosed, but I had actually not thought to pull out waste between changes.
  13. Oh no, what a terrible shame. He was a truly lovely and unique looking fish. To have something happen like this is so sad and frustrating. I am sorry you lost him.... RIP Cow.
  14. Thank you so much Alex. I really appreciate your help, as always. I still am trying to figure out how you never sleep... I wondered about trying salt, but I think that ruins the dirt and of course all my fish were QTed at .3% when I got them. PP at least breaks down. I think Rid Ich does, too, but not sure if both the formalin and the malachite green do, or if only one does. The blue pretty much disappeared from the Rid Ich Plus-treated QT water by this evening, so some part of it is breaking down. I have lots of organic matter in the big tank, that's one issue--both PP and Rid Ich will bind to it. PP would get everything, not sure about Rid Ich. PP would kill my filter, though. Rid Ich Plus apparently doesn't. As long as it did not stain my acrylic it would be OK (I have PPed the tank before and it was fine--it is high quality, thick, cell cast acrylic). My little lionhead, meanwhile, seems to be feeling better. When he rests, he still lists and leans on his face, but he has been swimming around a lot, unlike yesterday. He is missing a lot of scales along his upper side--maybe three or four rows of them all along his back--there are just none there. Another costia indication, or something else? I have never had a fish lose a big swath of scales like that before. (This is not new, I first noticed it some months ago, but didn't worry about it at the time as I thought he scraped himself getting trapped behind a big piece of drift wood I used to have in there. The driftwood that is now in my trop tank, so I guess now have costia, if that is what it is, in that tank, too. It was out of the water for a few months, but I understand costia can survive drying out. I may have PPed it, I usually do when moving things from one tank to another, but it is really big so can't remember if I managed to do it or not.) Anyway, I just expected they would slowly grow back, but they never did.
  15. I am sorry to say that things have gone from bad to worse. She is now clearly pineconing on her right side bedind the gill area and has developed popeye on that side. She is not eating her MMs. I have Metro powder, Maracycn 2, and Maracyn Plus--should I add one of those to the water and if so, which one do you think? Poor girl, she is very, very swollen. I also added Epsom just now (1/2 teasp in 10G).
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