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  1. when he tries to swim he can do so in relatively straight lines. usually he flutters quickly and swims in a short burst then lets the flow of the tank push him around gets wedged into/under something like a plant leaf. what i meant by "different levels of the tank" was more specifically different depths in the water column. not always just at the surface. the only time i used prazi was right after i acquired the fish back in early july. as for the gills, (forgive my lack of vocabulary) they are a deep red color on the inside and the outer flaps/covers have been curled due to flukes before the fish was in my possession.
  2. ok, before i left yesterday i attempted to feed him the puree of peas and he wasn't keeping it down... even after 15-20 seconds of holding him upright... so i ended up starting treatment with triple sulfa (3pm), being that his tail started to turn a very faint hue of red. when i got back today i noticed he was developing fin rot. i gave the tank the second dose of triple sulfa(4pm) and attempted to feed jungle anti-bacterial food. it was no problem getting the pellets inside his mouth but he's still spitting it back out... when i feed him i put him in a bowl of tank water and carefully hold him on his belly in my fingers (as if he weren't floating) and lift his body out of the water to let the food try to slide down his throat. after the food gets in his mouth i hold him in that position for 15-20 seconds and put him back in the water so he can breathe... i repeat this until frustration sets in (usually after 8 attempts or so)... am i doing something wrong???
  3. in the tank i have seachem flourite sand, plants (anubias, java fern, red melon sword, crypt), and two smaller peices of driftwood that were boiled twice and placed in the tank 5 months ago (with no pH issues since)... oh, and a few (hundred?) pest snails... in the filter i run a sponge, bio-max, and crushed coral... a few of the test tubes have been stained due to my forgetfulness, nitrate being one of them so that's what i attribute the nitrates to... i try to rinse all test tubes as best i can before and after use... i'll re-check levels tonight.
  4. ... not only that but he spits out most/all of it out...
  5. i gently squeezed his tummy and to me it felt hard, though i'm not sure what to compare it to... in fact, i felt the tummy of my other ryukin and they felt the same to me. temp is 75, i usually feed once daily, and both fish are under 3" (the fish in question being approx. 1.5" and his buddy is 2.5")...
  6. hello, some of you may know me as ryukin girl's boyfriend... my name is steve. i have a young panda ryukin that has been floating since monday... he's in a 29g tank with another young orange ryukin that has yet to show signs of a similar nature. i'm pretty good about doing 50% water changes every 7-9 days and i have yet to have a problem with poor water quality. after seeing both fish swimming fine in the morning (on monday) i focused my attention on another tank i've been working on. a couple hours later i noticed the panda floating completely upside down at various levels throughout the tank... immediately after i noticed this i did a 50% water change, salted the tank to .1, and fasted the fish... the next day after no change in the fish's condition, i salted the tank to .2... today, same deal, but i tried an epsom salt/pea puree and used a syringe to feed him but almost every time he spit the food back up... he did however manage to keep down an amount about the size of an average pea... he doesn't appear to have any spots, discoloration, growths, pineconing... and has been fluctuating between different depths in the water column. as of a few minutes ago my levels read 0/0/5ppm 8.2 pH sarah and i have been talking about what to do next and the conclusion we came to was (possibly) a salt dip... any ideas?
  7. never use the one inch of fish per gallon rule. ever. i would not add more than 3-4 smaller fish. add your fish very slowly and test water in between every addition to make sure your parameters are keeping stable. anemones grow much to large for a twenty gallon tank, require a ton of intense, expensive lighting, will sting corals, roam around your tank, and should only be added after your tank has been up and running and parameters have been stable for AT LEAST 6 months because they are very intolerent to poor water quality. besides, clownfish do not need an anemone to be happy. clownfish will happily host a variety of corals and caves. as for cleaners... about one per gallon with mostly snails(nassarius, cerith, astrea), a couple shrimp(cleaner, sexy, blood/fire), and a few hermits (blue leg, zebra, scarlet, red leg) if you like. protein skimmers are not necessary to have a successful saltwater system, though they do make things easier and will allow you the opprotunity to have more fish... as long as you are doing 20-30% weekly water changes you can easily keep you parameters in check. i would check out nano-reef.com to find out more information on how to properly set up and care for smaller saltwater tanks. if you look at the january 2009 reef profile, it shows a 3 year-old 40 gallon breeder aquarium run without a protein skimmer. hope this helps?
  8. first thing's first... is this for a saltwater or freshwater tank? the basic idea of your design is fairly common, but a lot of the exact dimensions will be dependent on what size tank you are using for the display, what you plan to keep, and how much turnover (Gallons Per Hour) you are trying to achieve. my knowledge lies with saltwater systems, but if it is a freshwater system i'll try to help however i can. just try to answer the questions above as best as you can then we can get into the details.
  9. yikes... hopefully you get to keep your job. needless to say, be very careful while working in and around the tanks with electrical safety problems. if they don't have a refractometer just make sure that when you use the hydrometer to get all of the air bubbles off of the swing arm. good luck.
  10. i couldn't have put it better myself... and when you think to yourself, " i think dori would be fine in a 30 gallon tank", remember that this particular fish commonly reaches 12" long, and putting a fish that size in a tank that small would be equivalent to me locking you up in a closet and expecting you to be fine. if you really want to keep a larger fish, make sure that you can provide not only a place for it to live, but thrive. research, research, research.
  11. it would benefit you a great deal to obtain/buy a refractometer. they are used to measure specific gravity and are MUCH more accurate than hydrometers. many people have reported hydrometers to be off by a substaintial amount for a number of reasons. i bought a cheap refractomer for $40 and it hasn't failed me yet. don't worry about the strontium and iodine tests. these elements aren't necessary to test or dose for, and they aren't anywhere near as important as the other 10 parameters i listed. water changes will keep these levels just fine. since you don't have a substantial amount of stony corals, the Mg/Ca/Alk should better themselves with a water change, but do try and get test kits for each of them. API makes good tests for a decent price. remember drop tests are far more accurate than dip tests. water changes aren't too complicated, but i understand that it's always nice to have a better knowledge of what you need to do BEFORE you do it. you just have to make sure that the SG (specific gravity), and temperature match EXACTLY what is in the tank. if either of these are off, they will stress the fish and corals. you'll do fine, just be careful, ask questions, and research.
  12. szywica

    I Got A Job

    i posted this information on your other thread as well, i apologize for any redundancies... http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php although incredibly complex at times, this article is great to have and can be a life saver. learn it. love it. sleep with it under your pillow. test for: temp salinity/spacific gravity pH ammonia nitrite nitrate alkalinity calcium magnesium the link provided above with show you exactly where you want to keep your levels at. all other levels will usually correct themselves after a water change. saltwater water changes are different from goldfish water changes because you do not change out 50% of the water at a time. once a week 10-20%. it is very rare to do anything more than a 30% water change on a reef tank. calcium/alkalinity usually have an inverse effect on each other; if one is high, the other is low. magnesium is the wildcard (out of magnesium/alk/calcium), meaning if you are having trouble keeping alkalinity/calcium stable then you magnesium is out of whack... i hope this isn't frowned upon, but here is a link to (IMHO) the best saltwater forum around... http://www.nano-reef.com/ just make sure that when you explain your situation, they know it was your employers idea to stick you with 3 tanks, and you are willing to learn. trust me. stick with the basics... water chemistry is very important. 1. STABILITY IS KEY 2. research everything/anything before you actually do/add it 3. weekly 10-20% water changes will keep most levels in check 4. do not dose anything you are not testing for 5. rule of thumb: one clean up crew critter per gallon 6. good stuff doesn't come cheap 7. you get what you pay for 8. no tangs unless you have a bigger tank to move them to later 9. lighting 8-12 hours a day is a good idea 10. RODI > Distilled > RO > whatever else 11. cyano problems (red slimy algae, grows everywhere) a. less feeding b. 8 hour lighting period c. more flow d. more water changes e. vacuum your sand already 12. don?t let the snail rot in your tank 13. refugium > no refugium 14. yes you are probably overstocked 15. water-changes weekly are a very good idea 16. get a refractometer already 17. variety is best for fish food 18. have at least two sources of water flow for better turbulance 19. don?t use bottled drinking water 20. don?t use spring water 21. don?t use tap water 22. less fish = more room for error when the unexpected happens. 23. the unexpected will happen 24. do not impulse buy 25. stability is key 26. bigger = easier to keep stable 27. no your pH doesnt have to be 8.2 28. pH of 7.8 -8.2 is fine 29. don?t add any supplements without testing 30. this includes pH buffer 31. 6500k yellow light 32. 10000k white light 33. 20000k blue light 34. no crushed coral. anywhere. 35. refugiums are nice 36. protein skimmers aren't required 37. protein skimmers are nice 38. cheato is a nice macro algae to use in a refugium 39. at least 1lbs of live rock per gallon 40. when in doubt refer to rules #1 or #25
  13. mandarins are risky to keep in small tanks, like the others listed, because they feed on small invertebrates called pods. you can run a refugium, to help create a safe haven for these tiny creatures, but the dragonet will eventually deplete the pod population to the point of starvation... UNLESS you TRAIN it to eat frozen/prepared foods (more specifically a 50/50 mix of spirulina brine/mysis). i know of at least a few people whom have done this with great success, one of which has trained around 30 different mandarins with a success rate of 100%. i can provide a direct quote/link describing exactly how to go about "training", if you would like... still, even if you wish to keep one of these fish and train it to eat frozen/prepared food, it is recommended to let your tank mature for around 6 months to let the pod population grow in case your particular fish shows and unwillingness to accept the prepared food. just remember... plan carefully, be patient, and stability is key.
  14. how big is your tank? what is your specific gravity? are you testing for strontium, calcium, and iodine??? DO NOT DOSE ANYTHING UNLESS YOU ARE TESTING FOR IT. reason being is because if you aren't testing for it then how do you know that you need it? in most cases, the list of parameters you need to test for go as follows: temperature salinity/specific gravity pH ammonia nitrites nitrates phosphates alkalinity calcium magnesium in smaller systems (less than 50 gallons), everything else will be kept in check by weekly water changes. refer to this article for all of you reef aquarium water chemistry needs... http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php your nitrates are probably most of the problem... do you have a refugium? have you been doing weekly 10-20% water changes? another potential problem i see is your alk... the best range to be in is 125-220ppm, and elevated levels can lead to a calcium deficiency. do you have any stony corals??
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