Jump to content


Regular Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Previous Fields

  • Age
  • Referred By
    Researching over internet
  • How many Goldfish
    Currently none

ran-D's Achievements


Newbie (1/14)



  1. This is a problem I have seen almost exclusively in giant bettas; they overfeed, and begin to bloat rapidly, but Chloeheartsfish here is giving good advice. But this is a normal case of over feeding, so that's a good thing. Once the bloating goes down, try to reduce his feeding more to see if it keeps the bloat from reoccuring. Good luck dear!
  2. Hun, the beneficial bacterial needed to start and maintain a cycle is aerobic--that means it absolutely needs a supply of oxygen running through the filter media to survive(obviously dissolved oxygen in this place, drying out the sponge kills the bacteria)--that's why when people's power go out, or the leave the filter without power too long with the filter media still in it, one of the culprits of the death of the bacteria is lack of oxygen (not counting the possible drying of the sponge). I'm not sure if it's possible to have enough beneficial bacteria to sustain a cycle--which is the reason why people say that you can't get a cycle with such a small amount of water--there's probably a minimum amount of ammonia and other components resposible for the cycle required for such a thing to happen. You also said you emptied the 1 gallon completely before refilling it with clean water. Now you said you had the presence of ammonia and nitrite at the beginning--was this tested right after the complete water change? Or several days after? Ammonia can "disappear" for a number of different reasons. You haven't even mentioned the presence of nitrates either--and lack of those along with zero nitrite and ammonia still indicates either faulty testing supplies, mistake during testing, no cycle or something like plantlife or strong algea using the nitrates for photosythesis. Without monitoring in everyday on the the water parameters of the "cycle" in this tank, it's really impossible to say if you really do have a cycle. You'll have to retest carefully to confirm your results.
  3. That doesn't seem very plausible--there are many variables in the experiment you missed--for example, you would need several different tanks, perhaps one with and one without filter, and you'd also need to record what kind of fish was kept in the tank, the amount of ammonia it produces, how much it is fed, the presence of algea in the tank--ect. Also, remember that the cycle is not kept within the water, it is kept within the filter media and substrate/decor, so the fact this tank had no filter makes it indeed impossible to filter. You are also banking on the fact there was no ammonia present to verify a cycle establishing. You will also have to look at the readings for the nitrate and nitrites, since you can get different answers based on all three. Sorry if I sound a little harsh, I was just trying to make a point. I have no idea if in fact cycles can be established in that small size of a tank, but the fact you went through the trouble to try is really good. Perhaps you could post this in the water quality section to see if anyone else has done this, or get some advice there?
  4. Your betta should be just fine without an air pump or filter, just as long as you do water changes every several days. But a warning about mini filters-some are still EXTREMELY powerful. My mini filter is supposed to be used (lable on box says) for 1-3 gallons, but even with three gallons, the outtake stream was too powerful. I looked that box, that the gallonsper hour was 58-- and that's kinda high for even 5 gallon tanks. Bettas usually perfer gentle currents, so a filter that strong really batters them around.... However, you can alter the strong flow back attaching a sponge or something over the filter outake or something. I've also here of people attaching a small acrylic cup just large enough to house the filter (in tank filter, of course) underneath the filter to buffer the current. Hopefully you can find a good model, I haven't had much luck. I hope you find something good for your betta
  5. ran-D

    Bubble Nests

    Yep, that's normal! I've got an aggressive crowntail who makes his a centimeter thick. I leave a clean piece of styrofoam at the edge of his tank to anchor his nest so that when I do my cleaning invasion, there is still a good base for him to work with. Healthy bettas blow nice sticky little bubbles, but large, lone random ones are indicator of something wrong, like a bacterial infection.
  6. That book will be one my list of things to read then, and I was seeing if you heard of or know anything specific, since the Japanese research is very secretive so far (like everything else ). I'm not a specifically scientifically driven person, I'm an artist, so I'd be eyeing and squaring off things visually too. You have a good point about the scientist/geneticist fish versus the show quality fish, but a good geneticist would probably try to obtain samples from a more ideal representation-or perhaps from many of the same breed in order to establish a more accurate average. (I'm counting on the Japanese for this, but they are subject to use their standards of goldfish, which makes all these variables more gapingly obvious if they did such exclusive research) That's very unfortunate . I'm also curious about what prevents them from reproducing well? Are phoenix particularly specific about thier environtment/atmosphere for breeding? Or do they have impaired fertility (to a degree) or less surviving offspring? I've read about you discussing your broadtail lines, and it's very responsible ideal to make a consistant line. I'll have to agree with your standards on ryukins, body type and finnage are what I find the most striking and important(I'm a finnage freak)... Good quality ryukins should have a "supermodel" persona. Perhaps you can work on calico's once you'v established the body type and finnage? Personally I've only seen two calico broadtail ryukins, and one of them is your Sterling. I was pleased to hear how well your fish did in show--I've read all the goldfish shows posted on here. My concern with the lethal combinations was that natural selection that occured within the tanks was preventing the fish from living very long anyway, but I didn't really compare it to the fry die-off stage, since this occurs with every spawn. Thanks for reminded me of that possibility. The only thing close to the long living lethal combination I'm thinking of were perhaps the sickly Chinadolls... or fish I suspect could have inherited a predisposition for certain ailments. With the different standards of ranchu's flying around between Eastern countries, the UK and Western, what do you perfer more? I'm tending to favor side view ranchu's with large heads to balance the proportions of thier body, and consider SVR and TVR different (different perspectives make for different standards).
  7. Is there anything you can share about the genetics of the eggfish you are working with? In addition to this, are there any traits which are linked to a disease/condition that may lead to something along the lines of impaired immunity(in any goldfish)? This excludes body formations with are prone to SBD, blindness in telescopes which are more of a direct cause and effect. For example, in mice, there is a self color type called Lethal Yellow, located on the second chromosome, which carries a number of possible disorders such as low insulin levels, resulting as the mice being models for diabetes--this also causes weight gain, impaired fertility and a variety of other problems. However, it is not the coat itself that causes the problem, since there is a second yellow variety called Recessive Yellow which is located on a different chromosome and is healthy. It's a bit hard for me to describe what exactly I'm looking for..... Thank you so much for those "articles" I enjoyed reading them
  8. They should be compatible, the owner of this site directly states that no more original watonai exist, so he had to revert to using the original cross of wakin and ryukin. I think these are first generations, so they aren't the best examples of the originals anyway, but thier large caudal fins make them attractive.
  9. They have a decent selection of ranchus from what I've seen over the past several months, but sometimes you see that they have yet to learn on judgement of a good quality fish. They've only recently started obsessing over goldfish (they've be doing koi for many years), but there are also a number of good articles on their site and it is encouraged that you ask the owner questions by email if you have any. I've been considering ordering from them for the last 4 months, and I've yet to see a sick fish. The wen growth is poor, except on the larger fish--and the larger fish wens are acceptable... consider that they are selling young fish--perhaps inquire about the parents or ask to see photos? Part of thier stock is coming from a different breeder, as they mentioned. Like d_golemn said, pet quality, but some are quite nice. It depends on what you are looking for.
  10. "If there are specific traits you are interested in knowing about - recessive/dominant, etc. I will be happy to help as I can. Remember that many are partials - modified by many factors. Goldfish genetics are extremely complicated because the majority of genetic traits are not strictly dominant/recessive pairs." Thank god! When I was typing my posts I kept on trying to figure out the recessive and dominant traits in my head-it bothered me really bad because there were too many missing "pieces" and variables that didn't make any sense. Thanks for pointing that out. I'm happy to hear anything on goldfish genetics
  11. Since fish are very biologically different from us, and as humans we like project our own feelings onto others, person or animal, it might be safe to say they don't feel lonely, but perhaps "understimulated" so that they display symptoms of human/mammalian/avian depression. But thier brain is more developed for the basics of survival(medula, spinal chord), such was oxygen intake, fear, hunger, and breeding, and not so much on the areas responisble for feelings of happiness or sadness. For example, you wouldn't take your fish to a psychiatrist just because you think he has some Freudian complex? You also have to take into consideration that fish are usually social creatures that would benefit from a more natural environment where they would see other fish, but this is not to encourage overstocking or inappropriate tank mates. If a tank is large enough to hold more goldfish (using the rule here) a goldfish would be more active and appear happier to us.... And let's just face it, everyone here usually has a wishlist and wants an excuse for more
  12. Serious breeders will be able to inform us--and any show breeders and such do have to know genetics. I just don't have the time to sift through various internet documents (some that are questionable in accuracy) so I'd wait for an experienced person like daryl or d_golemn. I have studied some gentics outside of school, but those were for betta color strains and fancy mice coat and color varieties, and maybe a few things on broadtail and calico genes in goldfish. Knowing genetics takes mathematics and science these days, since it is really an equation of strategic probability, but it does take quite a few years of observation to select good traits, learn how to improve and retain them based on both facts and chance. Deformed fry, if thier crooked spines do not fix themselves, or are born with one eye, are either culled or die off naturally. Fry showing undesirable qualities may also be culled, or if healthy and the breeder prefers, maybe sold to petshops or homes as pets. The best ones are reserved to the breeder's choice of either keeping them for further breeding, selling, or sending to other breeders. And yeah Franky, I'm sure someone could have a triple-crossbred that could have 25% oranda, 25% pearlscale and 50% ryukin- so that would mean one parent is pure and the other is a cross breed. I'm not sure if one goldfish could have three parents
  13. Betta enthusiasts refer to a female betta tank as a "Harem" sometimes, and it's best to get a 10-12 gallon for about 3-4 girls. However, you must supply plenty of hiding places and if possible, try to obtain spawn sisters since they have lived together their entire lives and will be more likely to have less conflict. After you have established your harem safely, it is not recommended to add anymore female for the reason of upseting the hiearchy of the tank. What all the others have told you hear about females being aggressive is true, but all betta breeders I have spoken with and read their articles strongly advice not to add anymore females after getting the initial number, and that lower numbers are better (like each betta gets 3 gallons). To get some community tank/harem females, you can try looking at the female groups being sold together on aquabid, or if you have a breeder in the area, contact them. I really hope you can get your tank up, betta females can be real eye-candy
  14. Your tank is either cycled and is going through a bump, or more likely it is still in it's cycle. With your ammonia and nitrites that high, do a large, temperature matched, pH matched, treated water change immediately. You will have to monitor these readings every day until your tank has cycled and do frequent water changes to prevent any more possible ammonia burns and keeping the water parameters in healthy condition. Here is the site's page on how to cycle your tank, what to look for during the progessing stages, ect. http://www.kokosgoldfish.com/cycle.html However, your pH looks great, just as long as it's stable.
  15. The outcome of the offspring will be based on the gentics of the parents, so this means that two excellent show fish could breed and produce only a few good examples of the parent's physical traits. It will also depend on the dominant and recessive genes each parent has, since a dominant trait will only need to be present once to show up physically, while a resessive trait needs to have two of those recessives to show up physically. If there is just one recessive, it won't show, but will still be carried. I need a diagram to explain this better, but if you guys remembered genetics in school, you had to use that four-squared set up to help you learn the percent chance of probability of offspring receiving genes of the two parents. What FishCrazy says is true, but it is very unlikely, but it is possible if those two common's both carried recessive genes for telescope traits. But when breeding two different types of goldfish, like let's say a telescope and a ryukin, there will be a percentage of fry that will turn out looking either ryukin or telescope, and another percentage of fry that may exhibit both ryukin and telescope traits (I'm not sure since I don't know if these are dominat genes, I'm just supposing). Let it also be noted that sometimes to improve a line of goldfish, breeders may incorporate a second type of goldfish that may help enhance the traits they are looking for. Ryukin's could be breed into an oranda line to deepen their bodies--but it usually takes several generations of more selective breeding of the resulting offspring to give the breeder thier ideal stock. However, when breeding two obvious, dead-pan orandas with a consistantly oranda-based bloodline, they will usually be true, and will not produce pearlscales or ryukins, though they may produce poor examples of oranda's which could be mistaken for a mixed fish. If you want more specifics on the percentage of traits being carried and/or exhibited, I'm sure our resident breeders and collectors will elaborate for you if they see this topic. There is generally much confusion when it comes to genetics, and I'm skipping some of the vocabulary I should be using.... Otherwise research basic genetics to just learn theoretical probabilities of breeding.
  • Create New...