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About fortunefaded

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  • How many Goldfish
    Only the one but he is getting a friend soon!
  1. In case anyone is wondering. The white patches on Mrfishy's side is due to lost scales from somehow getting into a rolled up tight filled with crushed coral - He was rescued from it but hurt himself whilst tangled. Scales haven't returned :/
  2. Hello everyone! Aint posted in a long while and heck, I got a web camera so I thought I'd capture a video of the fish (see youtube link). Since it has been a while, thought I'd post a before and after so everyone can appreciate how much they've grown. A perfect example of why our GF need big tanks Mr Fishy Before: Halfsoul Before: Apologies for the poor sound, hah...1st time using the web camera. Song is Ratatat - breaking away.
  3. Sod gravel, too many scares of my goldfish getting gravel stuck in their mouths. Go sand
  4. Venturi's are very simple and effective ways for creating bubbles and lovely oxygen. If it has suddenly stopped, you prolly have the valve turned off or the system is flooded with air. Trying playing with the twisty bits and then take it apart and have a look at each component if it still don't work.
  5. Found this: http://www.angelfishaquatics.co.uk/hagen-glo-t5ho-double-overhead-39w-1375-p.asp Getting closer for sure, tho not overly happy with only having 80watts of lighting, I have a 50G tank, so I'd have only have 1.6w/gallon Which is pretty low given I'm wanting to heavily plant the tank. Any ideas on how to boost this? Perhaps different lights as the unit comes without the lamps.
  6. Hello! I'm looking to find an overtank lighting rig to fit my 1100mm tank. This sort of rig is where the lighting compartment is held above the tank by legs that grip on to the top of the tank opposed to having a hood with inbuilt lighting or using a pendant rig held up by wires. I've found a 1000mm rig but have no idea if the legs would extend to the edges of the tank. I'm finding this awkward as with a pendant system, I could buy a 1000mm rig and it'd work fine on my tank as I'd suspend it above (not possible in my situation unfortunately) but with overtank...not sure if it'll fall in! Any ideas/tips/experience to pass on to me?
  7. I think it depends on the size of the tank in regards to disturbances. In a smaller tank with 10x filteration the filter is going to be quite big and will create quite alot of flow which will disturb the sand. What I've found is that the sand is quite heavy, proper sandcastle texture sand, it doesn't seem to go all over the place even with the rummaging my 2 gf are doing! I find it hard to believe that sand would also cause irratation to the gills as surely in nature gf rummage in riverbeds which would be either very muddy or silty? **quick update on tank*** All going good so far! I've been barebottom for ages so really appreciating the impact the tank has visually.
  8. I left each bucket for approx 15 mins with minor stirring, I was conscious that in the stirring I was sending sand down the drains! Tank looks much better now, it is beginning to settle, you can see about 6 inches deep before the dust takes over, it is quite spooky watching my fishies appear and disappear so suddenly.
  9. Howdy all Long time no see for the koko die hards. I've decided to put sand in my tank as part of a redecoration since I now have a fish tank unit (the tank is no longer on the floor!). I've washed the sand thoroughly but its still cloudy. I'm running 2 spare filters with fine material to catch the dust/sand that is flowing and it slowly appears to be working. What I'm wondering, is it safe to put my 2 goldfish in? I'd rather them be in 250 litre tank opposed to the 15 litre bucket.
  10. What is a heron statue? Quite a handy thread this as my stepdad is having issues with a heron. It is stalking his pond and leaving calling cards- dead eels. I'm quite confident he'll shoot the bird with an air rifle if he sees it at the pond
  11. Hey guys! I posted this link a while back: http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/topic/80639-new-tank/page__p__900064__fromsearch__1entry900064 And finally now I'm at the stage where I can set it up and I need your help for it, so I have some questions if you'd be willing: 1) I'm wanting to paint the tank, I've seen this done before in magazines and photos of peoples work on the forum. I'm wondering if anyone has a link to an article on how to do it, i.e depending on what athestics I want, what paints are safe and any links to forumers paint jobs would be great 2) I want to have a set up without a filter in the tank and would like to know what my options are, ideally I'd like no equipment in the tank whatsoever. I'm curious about how I can set up my own sump tank below the tank or/and other means (hang on backs, since the back of my tank will be painted). Also is it possible to have heated water via a filter opposed to having a heater in the tank? 3) Depending on when it is setup i.e immediately or if I wait till start of july when I move out changes where the tank will be. If I set up now it will be upon my breakfast bar and I would like to know how much 200-250l of water weighs or/and ways of calculating what force will be transmuted onto the breakfast bar.
  12. Edit I forgot to mention that the milky white cloudyness you've mentioned is common in tanks that are at the begining of the cycling stage. If you have many fish in a tank this happens very quickly. When it dissappears or doesn't appear at all (depending on when you have been doing waterchanges) it is a sign from nature that the tank has cycled. Don't worry about the cloudy water as it isn't poisionous to the fish, the only problem it creates is a visually unappealing tank and it can consume the oxygen in the tank but you appear to have plenty of aeration. The main focus at the moment is to test the water frequently to prevent ammonia building up and killing the fish. Oh, the cloudyness is usually from suspended bacteria in your tap water which is dormant but once left in a tank for fish, after a few days it beings to replicate- this bacteria would be consumed normally by a cycled tank's bacteria but in your case that bacteria isn't there yet.
  13. Hello The main issue that you appear to be having is the fish getting ill due to being in an uncycled tank thus waste products outnumber the good bacteria which would break it down and make it less lethal. I'd imagine there has been spikes in Ammonia, regardless of what your test kit is showing you. I'm thinking your kit is one of those strips you dip into the water? If so, they are often inaccurate and I'd advise on getting a drop test kit. There is a saying, "We are water keepers, not fish keepers..." Keep the water good and the fish will be healthy. If the water is not healthy due to levels of ammonia and nitrities changing or spiking then the fish will be under constant stress and prone to illness. This is what I think the case is at the moment. Gravel is a really good source of bacteria, so it is best not to rinse it out as you've done as you are destroying a colony of bacteria leaving the filter the task of removing 12 fish worth of poop. I'd advise on doing 2-3 checks a day, one in the morning and evening at least and if the ammonia is above 1ppm then do a 50% water change. I dug up some information from the forum on cycling a tank with fish: First, youll need to get the ammonia under 1ppm and the nitrItes under 2ppm by performing waterchanges. These (and all waterchanges) should be done with temperature matched, dechlorinated water . "...Now, test your water every morning and night. If the ammonia climbs higher than 1ppm, do a 50% waterchange.if the nitrite gets over 2ppm, do a 50% waterchange. These levels will rise daily and closely monitoring them is very important. You'll need to keep this up for close to a month from the time you set the tank up. Sometime between 21 days and 30 days, the tank should be very nearly cycled. your tank should be fully cycled when the ammonia and nitrites are no longer registering on the kits (0ppm). Ammonia will be the first to disapper, then a week or two after that, the nitrItes will begin to disappear. It's about that time that you should start seeing nitrAtes appear on the kits. This is when youll be nearing the end of your waterchanging vigil. After the tank has become cycled, you only need to do weekly waterchanges to keep the nitrates to a safe minimum (40ppm or less)."
  14. There will always be a bit of aggression with fish in tanks as they protect their terriority. Certain factors can increase or decrease tank-mate aggression but we need to know some facts to figure out why it is happening. The main thing to ask is: What type of goldfish do you have? Single tails don't mix too well with fancies due the different speeds they swim at, the single tail may chase or nip the fins of a slower moving fish. How big is your tank? If there isn't enough space for two goldfish they are bound to fight. How long have the fish being together? It could just be teething issues due to having a sudden new tank mate. What size are the fish? Goldfish have a tendancy to eat w/e fits in their mouths, if you have 5 inch GF in with a tiny GF... It sounds like the issue has resolved itself but if it hasn't, I'g suggest separate tanks, a larger tank or creating a divider in the existing tank for a while.
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