Jump to content


Regular Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by RHankinsJr

  1. @koko: Thank you for your explanation. I just did not understand what would make it drop from 7.5 then bring it right back up to 7.5 on it's own without any outside influence from my wife or myself. In fact after the fish died I left the tank running and I am going to continue to monitor the pH levels twice daily for the next couple of weeks to see if this 'crash' happens again without water changes ( fishless now of course ). So far the pH is staying stable at 7.5
  2. This can be moved from 911. They both died. @trinket, If the pH did crash, what brought it back up when my wife tested the water before any changes were made to the tank? And what would cause a crash and recovery like that? @newbiefishgirl: I am buffering the water before I introduce it into the tank due to the condition of the tap water. I will get some buff it up and try it instead of proper pH, my only concern with it is the fact that you can overdose it and since I have to pre-condition my water before adding it to the tank this would make it a much more tedious task. But I guess I have to do whatever it takes. What is the difference between these products that makes buff it up the better choice or is it your personal preference?
  3. I use a python to remove water and do the substrate 100% each time. To refill, I mix the water in a 5 gallon buckets using proper ph, and I check the levels on the water before I add it to the tank. I check the water params every wed. and every sat. the ph has always been 7.5 or very close to it. If the ph gets to 7.0 I do a water change, although I have only had to do it for this reason once. I was curious about proper ph as well since you mentioned it. I took a gallon bucket, put the water in then dosed it with 5gal worth of proper ph... stirred it up tested it 7.5. There was no spike to say other than it correcting the ph... I'll test it again in 30m. It might act differently in the tank since as I mentioned before I have crushed coral in the filters. But I *never* overdose it like I did in this test. I am using my newest test kit, it is 3 weeks old. Closest store I have found with the antibiotics is 3 hours away. ***edit** This week I did not do sat or wed testing because I was gone, but upon my arrival back home ( at the end of 2 weeks ) the ph was 7.5 steady. **re-edit** I just realized that I said the ph was originally 8.7 in my first post, that was innacurate. Not sure where I got that number when entering it.
  4. I am not sure if it would be columnaris, when the wife first described them to me that is what I thought as well. But after seeing the pics and looking at them IRL it looks more like they have created a lot of mucous in trying to protect themselves. It is not cottony. That supported your original assumption that it might have been an abnormal trichondia population in the tank. I'll try to locate some of the antibiotics They are not eating. Params are 0nitrite,0nitrate,0ammonia. 7.5ph ~73degrees salted as perscribed.
  5. bump. ph of water on tap is 5.9, I was out of kH, gH test. Changed water ~90%. Was a little more debris ( guessing from feeder ) but not a lot. Nothing out of the way in filters.
  6. Substrate is maybe 1/4" at most spots some may be a little higher from getting moved around in pythoning the water. I have crushed coral in the extra media holders on one of the emporers. When I get home I will test the tap water, the last time I did it was very very low and with a low (gH? whatever the one that keeps it stable is ). Normally at the end of 2 weeks the nitrATE is barely to 10ppm, this time it was larger. Quite possibly due to the feedings having to be done via auto-feeder for the time we were gone. There are no decorations in the tank at all. Thanks, Richard
  7. Thank you for your advice, as soon as I get home I will be doing that right away the nitrATE is high for being at the end of their 2 week cycle. The wife doesn't know how to use the python so it has to wait on me.
  8. [*]Test Results for the Following: [*]Ammonia Level? 0ppm [*]Nitrite Level? 0ppm [*]Nitrate level? 20-25 [*]Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)? 8.7 [*]Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)? ?? [*]Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API Drops [*]Water temperature? 72ish [*]Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 55g and for 1yr approx ( filter has 3yrs of constant use ) [*]What is the name and size of the filter(s)? 2 emporer 400s [*]How often do you change the water and how much? every two weeks, 80% [*]How many fish in the tank and their size? 2 orandas, 5-6" and 4-5" [*]What kind of water additives or conditioners? amquel+, proper ph 7.5 [*]What do you feed your fish and how often? progold 1once daily [*]Any new fish added to the tank? no [*]Any medications added to the tank? no [*]Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? cloudy color to them, blood in rear fins, some fin rot [*]Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? bottom sitting, not eating, deep breathing Not sure when this started, we have been gone for the week. They were showing no signs of distress when we left. The wife got home before me and notified me so I had her check the water, snap pics, and I am posting the information. The feeder was still working properly for our time away and was still dropping a small amount of progold and was still set to once a day. don't pay attention to my sig, I have not updated it. These are the two orandas from the 20g tank that were moved into the 55g tank after my ranchu passed. The tank was fully cleaned before we moved them over. We bought all new items for the tank when we moved them and we moved their emporer to the new tank to seed it properly. Tank has had them in it for approx 1 year now. Thanks, Richard
  9. Just bumping incase this got missed. Thanks again.
  10. I have went a couple days over since my post asking if I should continue its use. But I did stop using it yesterday and went back to pro-gold. I have a bubble bar in the tank now being pushed by whisper 100 and I lifted the emporers up some to keep the water broken up more. Do you have any ideas on how to get him moving again? I don't want to chase him around the tank but if that is what I need to do I will. Do I keep the salt up for the time being or should I start dropping it yet? Thanks again for your continued help!
  11. Internet is down in our neck of the woods so I have not been able to upload images. Supposed to be back up today once they get all the trees cleared out from the storms. Thanks.
  12. They are all over from his chubby cheeks to his hind end. The over-do of water changes was due primarily to the fact that in the previous thread where we were discussing this there was talk of things in the water that might have been building up. So really it is just paranoia, being anal, and ready to get him well finally. The gravel had all been removed over the course of the problem to ensure there could not be any nasties lurking beneath it. I have plenty of surface area in the emporers to maintain a pond worth of bacteria ( or so I like to think ). The white spots look like cottony buildup. The wife is going to try her camera out for pictures first thing in the am since my kodak isn't getting the job done. Thanks for your help thus far, sleep well.
  13. No problem, the only tank that I only test with strips on is the beta tank. Everything else has API listed with them I think. I have the bar back in now.
  14. Also, you suggest 50-80% water changes weekly. In two weeks with one ranchu in a 55g tank I have yet came to anywhere near 10ppm nitrate and everything else stays stable. What does the water change take out that can't be seen in the tests? Just curious. As of the time this issue started I am doing 50% every other day, which in the past 7 days I have bumped up to 90 with hard core cleaning performed every other water change ( 4 days ).
  15. All of the fish stores in my area only have the API drop kits that I use. I'll see if I can find a APR one at one of the smaller places. Only times I do the jungle strips is when I want my daughter to feel like she is able to help. I never use them for the results that I give on the board other than kH&gH early on. The APR kit is more accurate than the API kit? Their numbers will be the same as mine, they use the same API drop kits that I use to check my stuff at home. And I use two different kits to ensure that my reagents aren't going bad. I'll run some up there tomorrow after work, closest fish store is over an hour away from me. I'll put a bubble bar back in, the two emporers make pretty good spashing as it is and put tons of bubbles into the mix, but I'll add more if needed. The wands were removed to keep him from sitting upside down in the tank from eating bubbles all day long. Still trying to get more clear pics up. p.s. when I google apr test strips it asks me if I mean API. Is that what you meant? If so, thats what I use as stated in the OP & signature.
  16. Update: The spots on his lips have went away. He has been thru a full dose of medigold. Now his body is covered with white patches ( NOT ICH ) similar to those which I originally reported. I am trying to get a clear shot of them to post. Salt is still in the tank at the right dose. Have moved up to 90.9% ( 50gals out of the 55 ) water changes every other day. Everything but maybe 2 handfulls of rock have been removed. ammo = 0 nitrite = 0 nitrate = <5ppm ph = 7.8 ( buffered ) He is still a bottom stitter and does not swim, he does maintain balance though. No more sores on his body. He'll swim in short but quick bursts to get from point a to point b, kinda like he has forgotten how to swim. Going to try and get more pics of him now. First question ( other than what to do to get him better ) do I stop medi-gold now or do I keep on keeping on?
  17. that is correct. He has only gotten one maybe two in him before they turn to mush. Sometimes after they turn to mush he will waddle thru them and eat some so I try not to pull them out immediately after they turn to mush.
  18. Sorry it has taken me a while to reply. Moose's lips are almost perfectly clear now. The spot(s) on his body are going away. His underbelly is almost cleared up. But he isn't eating and he seems to have troubles swimming and gaining altitude without really really working hard for it. However he can maintain balance still. He spends all of his time sitting on the bottom now and when he does swim he either keeps his belly on the ground or he has to work so hard to move you think his head is going to explode. Salt is still in and water changes are still rolling and water params are still testing out properly 0am, 0ni, <10ppm na, 7.8~ph I have had to clean his tank daily since his food just sits and goes to waste. I am using the fresh medi-gold though,
  19. I have medi gold here that I just got a couple months ago when I restocked on progold. I have been keeping a very accurate account of the salt going in. The water is still 0ammonia, 0 nitrite, <10ppm nitrate, 7.8ph buffered. There is nothing in his tank right now other than a hand full of rocks. The water is just under the level of the 2 emporers and they are turning up the water pretty good. We had taken out the bubble bars since he would just sit his big butt on them and suck bubbles sometimes. Even with the salt in I have been maintaining 50% water changes daily with a full vacuuming. His mouth spots and his tail spots are still exactly the same as they were before I did the binox, and before I did the salt. I rinse the filters every time I do a water change.
  20. There is crushed coral in the filter. I use proper pH to get the ph up before I put it in the tank since I have been doing such large water changes since his mouth problem. He does not appear to be scraping on anything, although all that is in his tank at this point is a hand full of large smooth rocks. It doesn't really look like scrapes, for lack of a better description it looks like a hickey ( or however you spell that ) but it continues down his bottom fins. He is at 0.3% salt now. I tested the water and the parameters have not changed much of any from above. The only thing that is different is that now I am closer to 10ppm nitrate than I was before. So I will have to do a water change \ salt replace tonight. The spots are no better and are no worse now that I really examine the pics from yesterday and the one that I first posted. My wife is scared and would like to know what some of the symptoms are if there is too much salt in the water. I made sure and followed the directions to a T but she wants me to ask anyway.
  21. Well now with the salt in he is just bottom sitting and breating very hard. The bottom of his belly is now bloody. I couldn't get a good shot of it since he is bottom sitting, but you can see the start of it in the attached picture of the reflection under him. Also, I tried to get a better picture of the large ( rice crispy size cotton formations on his tail ) still not good... I guess I need a better camera Remember when looking at the picture he is a huge fish ( 8.5 inches )
  22. update: third round going in soon. However on the bottom of moose's tail it did look like ich. The stuff on the bottom appears to have gotten better though. The cotton stuff on the tail appears to be getting worse ( larger and whiter ). The top part was huge white cotton spots the largest was about the size of 3 progold pellets. the small ones you see on the tail were about the size of the diameter of rice crispies \ BBs. Anyway, thats just the update.
  23. [*]Test Results for the Following: [*]Ammonia Level? 0ppm [*]Nitrite Level? 0ppm [*]Nitrate level? <10ppm [*]Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)? 7.8 [*]Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)?fluctuates... I have to use proper ph to buff our water because it loses ph quickly [*]Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? api drops [*]Water temperature? 72-74 [*]Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 55gal and for about 2 years now [*]What is the name and size of the filter(s)? 2 emporer 400s [*]How often do you change the water and how much? every week atleast 60% with 100% change every other month [*]How many fish in the tank and their size? One 8.5 inch ranchu [*]What kind of water additives or conditioners? Just prime [*]What do you feed your fish and how often? Pro gold... 4-5 pellets twice a day [*]Any new fish added to the tank? none [*]Any medications added to the tank? I have recently treated him with binox for a problem he has been having with his lips ( see my last thread from a while back ) [*]Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? has these white spots on his tail and it looks like they might be appearing on his body as well. Not ich though, cottony looking. [*]Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? He has been eating the22 out of bubbles ( and just plain air ) lately to the point where he will float for hours and pass them as gas out of his rear end as well as belch them up from time to time. See attached picture(s). (( original thread for last problem which he also still has is here => http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/...&pid=800927 ))
  24. Will do trinket, I will post some pics each night so you can tell me if I need to treat again or not. as of this morning ( which, I know is really fast ) there is no change. I guess he'll be lucky and every night will be treat night for a little bit! Lucky moosie!
  • Create New...