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mardaokansi

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Posts posted by mardaokansi

  1. Posted · Edited by Martha

    I've asked Imo about the chlorophyll baths b4...but I never tried it. It's not medicine like the metro/flagyl.

    edit, the following quotes are from another site and not Imo

    Chlorophyll and Goldfish

    Promotes healing and is beneficial in treating ulcers; abscesses; open wounds; tumors; internal and external bacteria infection; enhances general health and boosts immune system. Increases oxygen levels in fish that have suffered from nitrite or nitrate poisoning. Chlorophyll may be administered orally by adding to gel food; or the fish may be given a green liquid bath; or the two combined doubling its effect.

    Chlorophyll Treatments Green Bath:

    Using an appropriate sized container (free of contaminants) fill with main tank water or treated water (matching temperature in main tank) not to exceed 75 degrees.

    Add 1 fluid ounce of liquid chlorophyll per quart of water; allow fish to soak for 5 minutes; once or twice a daily. Use fresh bath and fresh chlorophyll for each bath using main tank water.Chlorophyll can be purchased at your local health food shop. Look for pure liquid chlorophyll, or chlorophyll with mint; no other additives.May temporarily tint light colored fish

    Green Treatment:

    Add 1 ounce of chlorophyll per 10 gallons of tank water to main tank or pond. Perform daily water changes to remove gradually.

    Chlorophyll is a food grade substance; to keep it from degrading, do not allow temperatures to exceed 70 degrees during long term treatments. Heavily oxygenated water may create foam at surface. It may be beneficial to turn down volume on pumps during treatment. Keep surface area free by scooping away excess foam.Chlorophyll may be combined with water treatments, salt, garlic, Epsom salts, baking soda or MelaFix

    Green Tonic:

    Chlorophyll may be given orally by using a syringe or eye dropper; as often and as much as desired.

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  3. Posted · Edited by Martha

    that's strange the saki-hikari was floating and did not sink to the bottom...or maybe I misread this? anyway, there are a few members who also have a problem w/ progold making their fish float. I say don't spend anymore money on pellets, just make your own gel food. some goldfish, more and more it seems, have issues w/ any processed food. perhaps it's allergies, idk, but I think the best route for you is the gel food. also add in some L. acidophilus to the recipe, I found mine at a health food/vitamin shop place. The L. acidophilus is the same as probiotics and lactobacter. This is the kind of thing in yogurt btw that helps our digestive tracts (think activia).

    quote from Imo

    The GI tract produces bacteria that cause gas when they digest certain foods and lactobacter competes with these unwanted bacteria in a process known as antibiosis -fighting for space and food- and so may inhibit growth of the unwanted gassy bacteria.

    edit ooooooops! I just re-read your last post and it says you just received the progold and I thought it said you were thinking of buying it. sorry :doh11:

    at any rate, you can always try adding in the pellets to the gel food...idk, kind of a big kitchen experiment may be needed until you find what works best

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  4. Posted

    omg that is so gross and creepy! :krazy: sorry...I get freaked out w/ parasites. I really don't know the dosage of pp for little fish like this, I've only ever used it on goldies and for cleaning up the equipment. :undecided:

    Hopefully Caitie will be in soon and can give more advice.

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  6. Posted

    omg I WISH that info was from me! The salt thread is from Trinket and the pH one is from Koko. pH was was really confusing 2 me at first, w/ all the kH and gH...well it can still get me baffled at times, but there are a lot of recent threads on pH on the forum now so if you do a search you'll probably come across them.

    with the crushed coral you'll find it at any pet shop that sells fish supplies most likely. mine wasn't exactly crushed coral...it was coral rocks so I had to do the crushing myself. :) you put it in a filter bag, or new-never worn pantyhose into the filter after a quick rinse in either old tank water or dechlorinated tap water. add a little at a time to slowly raise your pH. do lots of testing to see where you're at, if you should add more or less, to make sure it's not jumping too high, etc.

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  11. Posted

    your salt is off too. it's 3 teaspoons to equal one tablespoon. and it's 1 teaspoon per gal. there is a GREAT link in my sig for help w/ salting.

    Also, I don't get this. Why was my salt off? I was trying to do a 0.3% salt concentration in the tank. If I did 1 tablespoon (3 teaspoons) per gallon, 10 tablespoons for a 10 gallon tank, isn't that 0.3%?

    my apologies I missed that you were at 0.3%. I was trying 2 type really fast so you would do a w/c to remove the salt.

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  14. Posted

    cloudy should mean the bb's are looking for a home...so wait a little bit and see if it clears up. it took my tank overnight to clear up. they don't need splash, as the water will carry the oxygen then need through the filter I believe.

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  16. Posted · Edited by Martha

    the link was interesting, but I just don't know how you check to see if your fish has one of the symptoms. for example, "the swim bladder contains purulent fluid. Large numbers of bacteria are found in the fluid and the wall" and "The wall of the swim bladder is hardened" ....only way I can think of checking these things is some type of surgery...and that would be too risky I would think? usually you wouldn't know about these things until after the fish has died and you open it up. :undecided:

    i just wish there was some place we could take our fish or learn really how to diagnose and treat them. its all guesswork and that is the hard part of keeping fancies i guess.

    I really do agree with you on this. and what I've found is Koko's. I mean, this place is the only option for most of us. I don't have any fish doc's in my area and the scientists who work out in the Potomac river have no interest in helping me so Koko's is all I have.

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  17. Posted

    I hope I don't get flamed for this. At first I thought tattooing fish was OK* until I researched it more.

    * The reason I thought tattooing fish was OK was because cats, horses, dogs, people and other animals are tatooed.

    I could see why you would think that, not being shown this kind of footage before. but w/ cats, dogs, horses, cattle, etc, their tattoos are not for decoration purposes like in us humans. also, these animals are HUGE in comparison to the fish. and I know that the fish's scales are pretty tough, so when these ppl are tattooing the fish w/ these tacky designs it has 2b REALLY painful for them.

    I just want 2 say that this is a topic that can get heated really quickly and threads have been closed before, so even though I know most (if not all of us) agree that this is despicable we should keep level heads.

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  18. Posted

    the whole thing with treatments (excluding meds) is trial and error. we suggest fasting and peas first, if that's not it then we move on. you can't go back and say "well I should have done this" "I shouldn't have done that".

    perhaps your fish was already done for, excuse my frankness, but thinking that feeding an additional two weeks of med food would have solved it is just wishful thinking. med food isn't going to fix a any organs in the body if they are already badly damaged. say your fish's swimbladder was ripped, the med food isn't going to fuze it back 2gether.

    swimbladder issues are 2b expected in fancies, their bodies are so compacted and all of their organs are smushed together tightly.

    I'm not going to comment more on this, but if I went back and thought about what I could have done differently to save my fish I would be a complete mess.

    I believe Imo (Trinket) will have really good insight into your case and she can also explain swimbladder issues and symptoms better than I can.

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  21. Posted

    idk, I think just the moving in and out from tank to tank is the stressful part. but then you mention shipping, and shipping is REALLY bad b/c they are in a bag, w/ a limited amount of oxygen and sitting in a tiny amount of water that goes sour fairly quickly.

    I think leaving him at home would be best. I mean, do you know the water params at your MIL?--what if there is nitrates or a big pH difference?

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  23. Posted

    Goldfish natively live in ponds, and other slow or still moving bodies of water in depths up to 20 m (65 ft). Their native climate is subtropical and they live in freshwater with a 6.0?8.0 pH, a water hardness of 5.0?19.0 dGH, and a temperature range of 40 to 106 ?F (4 to 41 ?C) although they will not survive long at the higher temperatures. They are considered ill-suited even to live in a heated tropical fish tank, as they are used to the greater amount of oxygen in unheated tanks.

    While it is true that goldfish can survive in a fairly wide temperature range, the optimal range for indoor fish is 68 to 75 ?F (20 to 23 ?C).

    -Dennis

    :goodpost I feel smarter now! XD

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