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Everything posted by Acupunk

  1. Thanks for keeping us posted on your experiment. Are you going to start a bucket with the refrigerated One and Only? That would be interesting. You know, when I bought Penny from Ken I was still in the process (the very frustrating and lengthy process, I might add) of cycling my 75 gallon tank. I asked Ken if he would pretty, pretty please send a little baggie of media from his filters along with my new fish. I took that media and spread it out among several net bags of ceramic rings in my filters and I think it helped jump start my cycle. (But please, everyone, don't go asking Ken for filter media because I told you that I did! I don't think he would be happy with me!)
  2. We are going to have to bring out the Koko bat if you keep us waiting much longer for photos...
  3. Thanks Kristen : ) Oh yeah, I actually know there's no H in Karma but I chose to add one. LOL. I don't know why but the other day when I thought of the name I said to shane "how bout Kharma with an H".. It just feels right to me.. LOL I think it's because we've been rewatching LOST and there is the whole thing with the Dharma initiative. LMAO Whatever the reason, I think the H makes it unique and different.. lol Alrighty then. Kharma it is. Congratulations!
  4. The ammonia in your tap water may be a new thing -- there may be some sort of problem in the water treatment or storage facility. You might try calling your water utility and asking if there is some sort of issue (although they will probably not acknowledge it to you, even if there is one). It is permissible for there to be a small level of nitrate in drinking water, but ammonia is a no-no.
  5. You are great. It is a wonderful gift to be able to get that excited about stuff. So many of us go about life worrying about all the bad stuff that could happen and miss the opportunity to be happy about the good things (even small ones). These fishies couldn't go to a better home and I love the names (although I don't think there's an "h" in Karma). We will anxiously await photos of them -- when do you expect them?
  6. I am not sure that this is true. Many fish stores and importers these days are keeping their tanks and pools at 0.1-0.3% salt all the time. As a result salt-resistant strains of ich are emerging. Katherine's fish have already undergone 0.3% salt treatment as well as higher concentration salt baths. She routinely keeps her tank at 0.1% salt. This would tend to suggest that the ich that have infected the fish now are at least familiar with salt, unfortunately. In Rick Hess' book it says that goldfish can tolerate higher concentrations of salt (in the 0.6% range) for short periods of time, but if the one fish is truly without scales then I don't know if this is a good idea. Wow...I never thought of this...Acupunk..awesome info....you are so right Vickie, truly I learn something new every single day...After the ich problems my goldies have gone thru I was planning on keeping some salt in their aquarium all the time...but now I won't...all this is so informative.. Yes, it is always best to reserve medications (including salt) for times when they are really needed. That way they will be as effective as possible when there is a real problem. There are fish out there (especially older fish) that really do best with a small amount of salt in their water, but generally your tank should be kept without salt in order to avoid the development of salt-resistant ich or other pathogens.
  7. How old is your test kit? It is possible that you are getting inaccurate results because it has expired. You ARE using a drop-type test, right? Strips are useless in a situation like this. Your tap water should not have ammonia in it, but it would be a good idea to test the water straight out of the tap and see what you get. You can ask a moderator to combine your two threads, but it makes thing confusing to everyone to get multiple threads going on a single problem.
  8. There is much greater potential for harm by letting the ammonia stay high than there is associated with large water changes. If I were you, I would gently move the fish to another container (a bucket, Rubbermaid, whatever) and remove and replace 100% of the water in the main tank. If you have gravel in there you should be sure to vacuum it very thoroughly as you remove the water. I do not see any value in moving the fish to a hospital tank -- you don't have any cycled filter material to put on the hospital tank and a smaller volume of water (in the hospital tank) will just mean that ammonia will accumulate faster. Lay off the Stress Coat -- with repeated use it will accumulate on your fishes' gills, making it more difficult for them to extract oxygen from the water (thereby increasing their stress). I would recommend that you use AmQuel+ as your one and only water conditioner. It will help deal with ammonia and will also remove chlorine and chloramines without impairing your fishes' gill function. I do not know what "ammonia killer" you are talking about. Depending on what it is, it may or may not be safe to use in double doses. All ammonia detoxifying agents will lower dissolved oxygen levels temporarily, so this may be contributing to your fishes' stress. A small dose of aquarium salt may help ease your fishes' stress -- 0.1% would be the place to start. Let me know if you need information about how to go about doing that. What is your aeration like? You should be sure to have a large bubble wand or two moving the water in your tank around, particularly because your tank is uncycled and underfiltered. And which fish are your "prized" fish? If it is the koi you are most intent on saving, I think you need to seriously consider moving them into a larger home, even if it is a Rubbermaid stock tank on your patio or whatever (the 300 gallon size would be good). They really are not suited to life in an aqaurium and will never thrive under those circumstances.
  9. Adding extra biomedia will not directly cut down on bacteria and fungi. But I still suggest removing carbon and adding additional filtration for a couple of reasons. First, carbon removes a number of beneficial trace elements from your water. Long term this can have an adverse impact on your fish's health and immune competence, thereby making them more susceptible to opportunistic pathogens. In addition, in my experience carbon bags and cartridges are more likely to get slimey and mucky with mold and other nasties compared to ceramic rings. Second, additional filtration (in the form of another canister filter or a HOB filter) will create more water movement and better oxygenation of the water. Pathogenic organisms thrive in stagnant water. On the other hand, water that is moving around the tank and splashing as it returns from a filter is less hospitable to nasties. Unless you are keeping tosakins or fancy goldfish with extremely long fins or tails you generally don't need to be concerned about too much current being generated by your filters. As long as you have a few quiet areas for your fish to rest they will generally enjoy the filter current. Remember that you can "stack" a canister filter output underneath the output of a HOB filter.
  10. The Fluval 404 turns over 340 gph, therefore your tank is underfiltered. Because you are still overstocked (the 2 koi really are not aquarium fish) you need to make sure that you stick with the rule of thumb that goldfish require filtration that turns over the tank volume at least ten times per hour. If you did anything but gently clean your filter in discarded tank water, then you have disrupted your population of beneficial bacteria and your tank is now re-cycling. The fact that you are seeing ammonia only (and no nitrite) suggests that you are at the beginning stages of re-establishing your biological filter. Between water changes and a product like AmQuel+ you need to keep ammonia below 0.5 ppm, preferably below 0.25 ppm. You also need to test daily and be prepared for nitrite to begin to rise.
  11. That is sort of comparing apples and oranges -- they serve different purposes. I definitely think that you need to make sure that your basic filtration bases are covered before moving on to supplemental equipment like UV sterilizers. Even two 205's is technically not enough, although you could probably get by by skipping the chemical filtration (carbon) and running mechanical and biological filtration only. Most goldfish people only use carbon when there is a specific need (like stripping medication out of the water) and it takes up valuable space in your filter. I have two HOB filters and a canister filter on my 75, and the canister is completely full of nothing but biological media.
  12. Here is a discussion of the application of various types of UV sterilizers. It is my understanding that UV units with less than 25 watts are useful for eliminating green water only. They do not have as much value for killing bacteria, fungi, and parasites in the water. https://www.goldfishconnection.com/shop/det...40&catId=23 https://www.goldfishconnection.com/shop/det...29&catId=23 As I stated above, I think that every 6 weeks would be a reasonable interval for 100% water changes, more often as long as your tank is under-filtered. I have the same problem with high tap water temperature. Around here it is about 94 degrees in the summer. I have solved my problem by purchasing a large trash can, which I keep in an unused shower. I fill it with water approx 24 hours prior to my planned water change so it can cool down to room temp. If necessary, I add ice to it. After I drain the tank, I use a submersible pump in the trash can attached to a vinyl hose to transfer the water from the trash can to the tank.
  13. You need to do periodic 100% water changes. You can gently move the fish to another container for an hour and it is no big deal. You are going to continue to have problems like this if you don't either do periodic 100% water changes or get a powerful UV sterilizer (the big one on Goldfish Connection is good one).
  14. You would never put clove oil in the tank. If you have to euthanize a fish you would do it in a separate container. The other medications are safe, but only used as directed by a moderator here and/or instructions on the label.
  15. LFS = Local Fish Store (this means Pet*Co, Pets*Mart, small fish stores, etc.) Euthanizing means putting to sleep. Like if you have a fish that is really sick and is in pain and you know it is not going to recover, you might want to put it out of its misery in a quick and comfortable way. Clove oil will do that.
  16. Epsom salt -- Useful for dropsy. You can buy at the drug store for $2 - $3 for a large bag. Prazi -- For flukes. All goldfish from the LFS have them. All fish should be treated for them. Metromeds & Medigold -- Medicated foods. When you need them, you need them right away. Only available through www.goldfishconnection.com. Get them now when you don't have an emergency. You can also get prazi from Goldfish Connection. Clove oil -- You can get at a health food store. Useful for euthanizing fish. Peroxide -- Useful for cleaning small scale and fin infections or injuries using a Q-tip. Can also be added to the water in a power outage emergency to raise the level of dissolved oxygen in the water (1 mL per ten gallons of tank water). Battery operated pump -- Useful if your power goes out in a storm, to keep your fish alive until the power comes back on. I have a large battery back-up system (made for computers) that my air pump and filters are plugged into in case the power goes out while I am away from home. Tweezers -- For removing a foreign body from your fishes' mouth. Baking soda -- Useful if your pH crashes. If your KH is low, then Buff It Up from Goldfish Connection is a better long-term solution. Another thing that I forgot is a brand new bucket that has never been used for cleaning that will be devoted exclusively to aquarium chores. And a set of measuring spoons.
  17. A large enough tank. At least 10 gallons per fancy; 20 gallons per single tail. A large enough filter. Needs to turn over the tank volume at least 10 times per hour. A drop-type test kit, including tests for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH. Good to also have KH and GH tests. Good sinking pellet food. Recommended brands include New Life Spectrum, Dainichi, Pro Gold, and Omega One. Supplemental fresh foods, including peas, fruits, vegetables, and frozen brine shrimp, blood worms, etc. A good water conditioner. Recommended brands include AmQuel+ and Prime. A Python. Makes large, frequent water changes quick and easy. This would be a great thing to ask for for Christmas. A notebook or three ring binder to keep records about aquarium maintenance and any illness your fish have. Basic medication/first aid/emergency kit. Aquarium salt, epsom salt, Prazi, Metromeds, Medigold, clove oil, peroxide, tweezers, battery operated pump, baking soda, etc. If you've got the money, a good UV sterilizer is a plus.
  18. Hello Pditty -- You're right -- 195 teaspoons of salt is over 4 cups. This seems like a lot but really is very safe. I have a 75 gallon tank and actually find that measuring salt with a postal scale is the much easier way to go. Depending on whether you are using fine salt or coarse salt the volume measurements can vary, so measuring by weight is really best and most accurate. 0.1% salt is 1 gram of salt per liter of water. Your 65 gallon tank is 246 liters, so 0.1% salt would be 8.67 ounces. 0.3% salt would be 26 ounces or over 1.5 pounds. A lot of salt, yes, but very safe for your fish. I am not sure where you are reading that salt is a "suspect" treatment for ich and other goldfish maladies. It certainly does not cure everything, but it is a very safe place to start. Because your fishes' condition seemed not to be declining rapidly, I would have recommended that you give the 0.3% salt a go before you jumped into medicating with other things. The next thing that you need to attend to is the source of the fuzzy spot on your ryukins' fins. How often do you do a 100% water change on your tank and how often do you clean your filter media? Over time, harmful bacteria and fungi accumulate in the water and on the media and can start causing problems like these (you are probably right that the initial cause was an injury to the fin, but then fungi/bacteria took advantage of the opportunity to start growing on your fish). You should be doing a 100% water change every 6 weeks or so and should swish your filter media clean of gunk (using discarded aquarium water) at each water change. The other thing that needs attending to is the fact that your tank is significantly under-filtered. It is my understanding that the Fluval 205 is intended for tanks up to 40 gallons and turns over 110 gph. Generally we (and other goldfish experts) advise that you have filter(s) that turn over your tank volume at least ten times per hour when keeping goldfish. In your case this would be 650 gph. Because you have a canister filter that holds significantly larger volume of filter media and because you only have three fish, you can get away with somewhat less filtration, but there is a big discrepancy between 110 gph and 650 gph. Would it be possible for you to add another canister filter or a large HOB filter? Now that you've added the Ick Clear then you'll just need to keep an eye on things and let us know how it goes. Please let us know if there is anything else we can do to help.
  19. I am not sure that this is true. Many fish stores and importers these days are keeping their tanks and pools at 0.1-0.3% salt all the time. As a result salt-resistant strains of ich are emerging. Katherine's fish have already undergone 0.3% salt treatment as well as higher concentration salt baths. She routinely keeps her tank at 0.1% salt. This would tend to suggest that the ich that have infected the fish now are at least familiar with salt, unfortunately. In Rick Hess' book it says that goldfish can tolerate higher concentrations of salt (in the 0.6% range) for short periods of time, but if the one fish is truly without scales then I don't know if this is a good idea.
  20. What do you mean by "loaded" the water with Stress Coat? Very "slimey" water conditioners like Stress Coat can accumulate on fishes' gills and impair their ability to extract oxygen from the water. This is especially true in fish that are already stressed or if you use more of the product than the label recommends.
  21. Hi Roni -- Sorry that you're having such a hard time with Elvis, especially after all the work that you've done to get him well and get his new home ready for him. There was a long thread a while back about a common goldfish that started out with mouthrot and ended up with a long series of problems caused by him bashing himself against the walls and hood of the tank and scratching himself against the bubble stone. In his case this behavior seemed to have to do with itching caused by the healing mouthrot and just the general antsiness of not feeling well. I don't remember from the beginning of the thread -- did the lump turn black all at once or gradually? Is it growing? When he was on the antibiotic food before did the lump go down in size? Keep us posted.
  22. We have slipped all the way down to #10 today! Vote for Kokos!
  23. Yahoo! Let's keep this up! I think people having the Aqua Rank voting thing in their siggies is helping.
  24. Hi Katherine -- Sorry to hear that you're having such a hard time. I agree with Lynda that any type of pleco is not safe with goldfish -- I had a "safe" bristlenose pleco who turned out to be a viscious predator, even though I never saw him commit any of his crimes. Remember the debate that we had a few months back about sand vs. gravel vs. barebottom? (http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=70043&hl=) A number of people mentioned in that thread that they would steer clear of sand because it would be next to impossible to get rid of parasites such as ich or flukes with a sand substrate. At that point in time you were very certain that you wanted to proceed with a sand substrate. I hate to say "I told you so", but I think that this stubborn case of ich that you're dealing with now is probably related to that choice. I think that you will find that things will clear up much more easily now that you have decided to use a barebottom set-up. Whether or not the treatment plan that you have devised will be effective and/or safe for your fish depends somewhat on your water parameters, including pH. Could you please post that information? When you are using chemical treatments such as Rid Ich you need to be extra careful. I agree that you should use the cycled filters in the Rubbermaids -- any amount of ammonia along with medications is a recipe for disaster. Also, could you tell us what level of salt is/was in the 55 gallon? Ich can certainly become salt resistant, but if your salt level has been less than 0.3% you might consider trying that as treatment for the ich first. It really is remarkably effective in most cases of ich. Good luck & keep us posted.
  25. I am sorry you have such a mess on your hands! How frustrating. Probably the thing to do is break everything down (including the filter box, but not the media) and soak it in vinegar water and then rinse, rinse, rinse. I don't think the lime will hurt anything if you leave, it will just be cosmetic. Ammonias vary in their concentration. When I did a fishless cycle on my 20 gallon tank I found that 1/4 tsp. ammonia every other day was about the right amount to bring ammonia up to 4.0 ppm, which is high enough to cycle a tank pretty fast but not so high that it will cause minerals to precipitate out of the water.
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