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jlroar

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  1. This morning at 9:00 KoKo was put to sleep so he would not continue to suffer. After trying everything I could find, talking to fish experts, using this forum, and still unable to come up with a solution for KoKo's problems he was just too weak to leave in the tank. I believe their is a difference between living and alive. KoKo was simply alive and out of respect with some heartfelt tears was put down today using clove oil. He went quietly without any struggle. I can't say enough how much I suggest people use this method as the fish simply goes to sleep and passes. I wish you all well and for now this will be my last post on this forum. I will be tarring down KoKo's 72 gallon bowfront tank and putting it on craigs list after a heavy cleaning using several bottles of hydrogen peroxide. It truly is a shame that we have come so far in keeping such wonderful pets to still have them taken away by something we are unable to understand and treat. God Bless and take care. James
  2. I have been treating KoKo in a rubbermaid container (it's slowly bowing at sides but holding). I have slowly added salt and have seen no helpful difference. He has actually gotten a few more white spots on his fins so if anything he is slowly getting worse or at least stuck at the same spot. I decided at this point to do a couple scrapings to see if parasites were anywhere around and found NO parasites. However I am at a loss to what this is. the first 3 photos are of the same area however the last one was taken with blue then switched to green glass below it to see if I could get any more detail. I believe it's nothing more than blood or a small peace of skin since I scraped him in several locations and this is all I turned up. and here are the two of same spot but different glass I didn't see anything of any help or interest other than a little algae.
  3. I am not trying to argue with you. I appreciate your information and do appreciate your time. If you say it's not too much then why should I say otherwise? Can you suggest filter for me? KoKo may be worse than I think. I don't know. All I know is it's slowly getting worse enough for me to come here looking for help. Who knows maybe I am stupid for not understanding what is wrong with him. Apparently I don't know enough or he wouldn't be in this spot. Anyhow I'm all ears. I have had apple snails in the past and it did from time to time crawl on the Goldfishes tail causing an issue at that time so I had to get rid of the snail. But then again maybe I was doing something wrong then too. I don't know and am always willing to listen and learn. The white streak on his tail has opened up into a hole as of today so going downhill is more than likely right. Thanks for your help and any additional info. you want to add.
  4. The AquaClear 110 Power Filter is ideal for use in 60-110 US gallon (227-416L) aquariums. This does 100 GPH. 700 would blow the fish around. This one almost seams too strong for him from time to time. Sounds good. I will try this. I'm a little concerned about that. Snails and Plecos tend to attack Goldfish especially a lethargic one. I fear it would not be a matter of if but a matter of when they would attack not to mention I have no clue what is causing this issue. I wouldn't want to infect another fish so for now that is out of the question. Thanks for all the info and the suggestions.
  5. One other thing, I love my book Fancy Goldfish A Complete Guide to Care and Collecting and it suggested that parasite or bacterial issues typically cause these issues and that is why I suggested I do a skin scraping and take photos under the microscope. I have been afraid to treat the tank with przi in case another form of treatment here is suggested however I have treated all my tanks and equipment with that every year to make sure I do not get an infestation like I had before that killed one of my other Goldfish. I can't recommend Prazi enough to people considering how safe it is to use. If I didn't see this with my own eyes I would swear it was ick/fungus on him but since I treated with permafix and melafix I know fungus would have been killed off not to mention I have seen fungus at work and this doesn't look anything like it (not fuzzy) I have read about fish pox but don't know if this is a possible match for it. I'm just lost and throwing things out there. KoKo does not miss a meal and does go about picking at the bottom of the tank a few times a day but spends most of his time watching TV (I guess since his favorite place is next to that end). If I wasn't worried I would offer him some potato chips Thanks again.
  6. I have forgot to add that I have been adding cycle every day since the nuking of the tank. This may be why I had little to no cycle. I will stop adding that today to see if anything changes but I have used that in the past and he has not had any reactions like this to it. Thanks again for trying.
  7. I was able to coax him to come out of hiding behind his favorite plant. He likes to sleep on it or under it. He has been quit lethargic lately and the white patches/stuff comes and goes at will. I took readings and everything is still as I listed above. I'm sure the tank had to cycle however I never saw any ammonia spike but did see nitrates and nitrites spike just after nuking the tank. I use Crushed coral (about a handful) in the bottom of the tank to keep the PH from moving from 8. The PH of my local water supply changes daily so that is why I added the crushed coral to the tank when it was setup. I have always used this method and it has worked out well over the years for me. KoKo never did fully clear up. This issue has been going on for months. The only reason I used the meds was because of the ulcer that formed on his side. I knew that was a major issue and had to be dealt with asap or he would die. KoKo has had some issue for the past several months (never did go away). I have tried everything I can think of to clear him up but I feel a parasite or a disease is at play and am completely lost on what to do. The pictures makes the issue in the top fin look like fungus or ick but unless it's a new kind its not like the Ick or fungus I've seen. All the plants in this tank are original plants he has had for over 3 years so nothing has been added to this tank other than water in the past 3 years and that includes the move over 6 months ago from the 125 gallon tank (just too big in room) down to this 72 gallon bow front tank. I do think some of these issues are excess slime but not sure what is causing it. KoKo is laying in his favorite plant now. (he is a funny fish) I feed Medigold and yes I started using Jumpstart when I thought he was getting better after nuking his tank. Then he started showing the same signs as if the other treatments were only temporary so that is why I went back to using Medigold. Thanks for everything, James
  8. Sorry its been a few days and I appreciate your kindness. I had a death in the family and am back at it again. I'm working on getting the algae off the glass but the camera keeps picking up on it and autofocuses on zooming in on it . At first I thought it was fungus but now I'm positive it's not. I don't have any personal experience with such an issue. This really has me stumped. When I get the glass cleaned I will attempt to take a couple scrapings of it and post the photos here. I'm not sure if they will be helpful or just cause confusion. Thanks again. James
  9. [*]Test Results for the Following: [*]Ammonia Level? 0 [*]Nitrite Level? 0 [*]Nitrate level? 2-4 (untreated tap is 4) [*]Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)? ph 8 gh/kh 9dh 0 chloramines [*]Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)? 7.6 [*]Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API [*]Water temperature? 74 [*]Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 72 Gallons and running for 8 months. [*]What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Old Aquaclear 110 Thanks for any help.KoKo the formally black but now Orange Moore was named after my first visit to this wonderful websight. I hope any information listed here will help him return to his normal curious self. KoKo lives in a planted tank that must be trimed often. I do NOT feed the plants or add any adgitives to the water other than prime. KoKo lives in an allglass brand bowfront aquarium with pleanty of room for swiming. I have treated KoKo many times as whatever this is seams to come back. At first I know I had an issue with Flukes and treat every year for those even though I believe they are non-existant. I have not treated for over 6 months for this and use prazi powder from goldfishconnection.com For the first time I'm bluntly stumped. I have access to a microscope and a camera and can take scrapings from the fish but hoped giving some information here and listing tank conditions would help. I have photos of the fish but from putting all these chemicals in the water and the small cycle I dealt with it's difficult to get a good picture through the algae covered glass. I allow the algae to grow for now in hopes to make sure the ammonia stays at 0 as the tank gets back to normal. KoKo does not miss a meal either so I feel he is at least stable but I'm getting concerned since this has gone on for over a month without any major improvements. Although this means nothing I work at a store that sells fish so I am familure with ick, fungus, and many other issues you see in a pet store. This one is just nothing I have seen before and frankly am concerned since it comes and goes. His tail turning white in areas then back is not normal and has me just dumfounded. It does not coinside with the waterchanges and happens at different intervals and has been almost constant lately to the point of me searching for help. [*]How often do you change the water and how much? 40 gallons since this issue every week. Water is left out with airstone for a minumum of 2 days before water change. [*]how many days ago was the last water change and how much? 40 gallons every monday. [*]How many fish in the tank and their size? 1 fish about 5 inches long [*]What kind of water additives or conditioners? Prime [*]What do you feed your fish and how often? goldfishconnection.com fish food [*]Any new fish added to the tank? no [*]Any medications added to the tank? I have treated the fish who had a few scales missing and was becomming lathergic with penacillin, and erthromycin for 1 week as directed on bottle. This did help a little. Now only Permafix and Melafix and goldfishconnection medicated fish food. [*]Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? The fish has areas that are turning white but when healed turn back orange. It's tail seams to be the biggest isue along with it's side that has healed but no scales have grown back on. It also has a real light milky look starting over its head area where no scales are located. [*]Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? The fish is highly lathergic when not ready to eat. The little fish seams like it is just drained of engergy.
  10. Hi, Soooo sorry for the long delay. I don't get on here that often (so many things to do). LOL! Thanks I thought it was kinda cute myself. The gravel I use is standard cheap nooppee gravel. Since I have Goldfish it is just the best solution! I also use special plant anchors that I have only found at aquariumplants.com that are made of rubber circles that you can cut for your needs. I really suggest them over any other anchor as they help keep the plant anchored even if you have an extremely hungry Goldfish. I must add several different nutrients. Excel (so I don't have to add Co2), Potassium, Iron, and Kent Freshwater for macro nutrients (you can use any brand) and from time to time I do have to add nitrites. Normally they range at about the 5 to 10 mark so I don't have to mess with that. But if they get low the plants will suffer. It does take a while to get the knack for it. And by NO means am I a plant expert. Just a lucky Goldfish keeper. The hardness of your water may climb extremely high. Crushed coral WILL harden the water. You must use enough of it though. Continue adding some in slowly. If you don't see any real change add up to a 1/3 of a cup extra at a time. You may not have enough room in your filter for all the coral you will need. If not you can use a baggie with holes poked into it (I suggest using a filter bag instead to keep from any danger of stagnant water) and place it under your substraite. I use a coralife fixture (the same type that others use for a saltwater aquarium) but have found that T5's (I think that is what they are called) will work just as well and cost less. For most of the plants I listed you WILL need a decent light setup. and add nutrientsFor the following plants I have had them grow with NO extra lighting and NO extra nutrients. Giant hygro **Suggested Anubias (all) **Suggested Aponogeton's (all) May get rather large! Tiger lotus (green and red) YOU MUST not let the stem reach the top of the water with this plant or all leaves will go to the top of the water and it will look horrible! Will get EXTREMELY large! WARNING: If you have not had any plants in your aquarium as of yet you may want to place some Anacharis (2 bundles in your aquarium. This may need to be done a few times or the Goldfish may completely eat all of your other plants. Goldfish love the taste of Anacharis and it will be like adding cat nip (if they were cats) This may sound odd but allow the Anacharis to wither (slightly) before adding it to the aquarium if is isn't already so it will be soft for the Goldfish to eat. Do NOT leave it out of the water for long or it will turn to MUSH. If you find it with a brown or off colored area near the bottom that will be just fine! **Suggested= really easy to keep. Plants are honestly really easy to keep. It's just how much time do you want to spend working with them and how much money are you willing to spend? Quarantine of new plants is just as important as quarantine of new fish! Plants can harber almost as many bad things as fish can. I suggest that you at least try and dip the plants in fresh water before adding to your tank. I am going to keep Prazi on hand to treat any new plant's and any new fish! Plants do not like many treatments that are used to keep our fish healthy like salt and some others so be careful and read those directions! James PM me if you have any more questions so I can respond in a more timely maner.
  11. I have lost 2 Goldfish the same way. But in my case it was 2 different Ranchu's attacking 2 different Orandas and eating their wen off. It was suggested to me by the LFS that one being picked to death was injured and the Goldfish just couldn't help itself. I'm not sure if that is true or just because they didn't know why they do that sometimes. Do fill out the form as Pixiefish asked to help rule out some things and give them a bigger picture of your tank. Best wishes, James
  12. When you say the Goldfish gets sicker before getting better is it normally really bad looking? For instance you already know about Jaws but I have another Goldfish in a 10 gallon aquarium by himself since he has swim bladder issues and is unable to swim correctly and not only has he gotten bloody patches (under a scale) but so has Jaws now (the one with dropsy symptoms on one side of his body). Jaws has 4 spots and the other (Tiny Bubbles) has 3 or so on him now but tiny bubbles shows no sign of dropsy. The spots are on both sides of both Jaws and Tiny Bubbles but in different areas on the body. They are both Orandas but my black moor Ko Ko named after some websight I know of has not shown any signs of these injuries/burns/whatever it is. Jaws is in FRESH water with NO prazi in it but is being treated for dropsy with Moroxy and Moroxy II. I did a 50% WC in Tiny Bubbles tank just now. Any suggestions or comments from anyone? I'm kinda shooting in the dark here. Thanks, James
  13. Thanks Zookey. I take it treating with the medicated food is OK then. I wish he would eat the medicated food from Goldfish Connection or my geltec penicillin that he has eaten in the past when he was sick. Thanks again my friend. James
  14. Hi, One of my other Goldfish is now having trouble. Jaws has been acting odd the past 3 days since I put in the Prazi. He was the other one that seamed to be having trouble with flukes the most. Some of his scales just past his pectorial fins on one side of him for about an inch or so going twords the back are sticking out slightly. At first I thought Dropsy but the area has not grown nor has it gotten any worse. I am feeding him Anti-Bacteria medicated food by Jungle since it is the ONLY medicated food he is willing to eat (the little turd!) James
  15. Hi, In another tank that I have treated with Praziquantel I found a brown round worm (looks like an earth worm but more like a baby one) dead in the filter. Any idea what that could have been? Thanks. James
  16. Hey Trinket, You have no need to be sorry. If it were not for you I would have NO idea what to do other than kill off all the snails and shrimp in my tank not to mention the hundred + plants. I have noticed some of my snails have been dying off lately do you think it has to do with the flukes too? The water quality should be as close to being perfect as to be expected. Weekly 30% water changes and have NEVER registered Ammonia or Nitrites and I use a drop tester(even just purchased a new one). The only thing I can't get under control is the water hardness. It registers higher than the list allows for! The cause of this is I have some crushed coral in the bottom of the tank (about 5 pounds or less that I had to slowly add/remove to get my PH at a stable 7.2. It took me a few months to get that right when I first setup this tank almost 2 years ago. I just ordered 25 grams of Prazi. If you have any additional information you can share I would be extremely grateful. James
  17. Bob Bob died sometime within the past 6 hours. I do appreciate your help and hope you have some more helpful hints on what to do for my other 2 Goldfish in that planted tank with lots of snails (that can carry fluks) and shrimp. Is their a way to treat without killing everything off that you know of? Do you know how long fluks can live on a snail without a fish host? Do you know how long fluks can live on a plant without a fish host? I have been researching the net and their is so much information on how to kill them but so little about them. One of my other fish showed signs of flukes in a scraping and is now bottom sitting. Thanks. James
  18. The one in photo 3#3 is a flukes as far as I can tell. He was really active. If you look above in the photos you can see him ball up and then a moon type shape. If you shrink your screen down to where a photo takes up the screen it will be easier to follow them when you page down or up. Like a mini movie. I have never really used PP before and that is why I was only using 1/2 the dose. I will do a 80% water change asap and treat as directed on the bottle with 1 teaspoon for the 10 gallon tank I have. Again THANK YOU and if you know how often I should try with PP let me know. James PS: That camera/microscope setup cost me almost $500.00! It better take good photos.
  19. Ok... Now I got it. It looks like I have 2 different kinds of flukes (unless I'm missing out on something). Dactlyogyrus and Gyrodactylus. I'm not sure if I should buy Formaldehyde since I have Kordon Permoxyn which says it will kill flukes but I have been treating at 1/2 the dose (2 treatments so far and still got the photos above). It contains 3.84% Potassium Permanganate solution and suggests using 1 teaspoon for 10 gallons. Should I do a water change and treat at full dose? James (tried to edit previous post but was unable too so sorry for double post)
  20. Ok... Now I got it. It looks like I have 2 different kinds of flukes (unless I'm missing out on something). Dactlyogyrus and Gyrodactylus. I plan to buy some Formaldehyde tomorow unless someone here has a suggestion before I wake up and take off for another day of fun. Thanks for all your help so far. James
  21. Ok. The last time I checked for parasites (when we chatted on here) their were none on him that I had found. Here is some photos of what I have came up with now. Quite a few little parasites on him. I need to look it up online and will do so but if you have any information on what to do please let me know. I tried to get at least 3 photos of each thing I cought (all but the last have more than one parasite in it and you will notice the different positions the parasite has moved to). I have more photos but I think that this is good enough to get an idea on what is going on. NOTE: These photos are from my second scrape along the top of Bob Bob where it looked like his slime coat is comming off. Photo set 1 (3 parasites that I noticed) Photo set 2 (1 parasites that I noticed) Photo set 3 (2 parasites that I noticed) Photo set 4 (1 parasites that I noticed) Here are 2 photos of Bob Bob in his tank getting upset from the flash of the camera. When I did the first scrape which the photos came out kinda crappy as I was trying to get the camera zoomed in correctly I took it of the 2 tufts which are now hard and not willing to give or even for that matter move. So something has changed quite a bit. On the first scraping I believe I saw a flukes parasite but will re-check the net. Please let me know if you need more information. James
  22. I am going to try and get some photos tonight of this since he isn't moving much and it will be rather easy for me to do so. I will also do a skin scrape of one of the white tufts and get the best photo of it that I can but not sure how well it will turn out. James
  23. It's OK. You were doing the best you could possibly do with the information I had given you. I am not upset nor am I mad at you. It is still possible that the white tufts are not related to this issue but since they are their and I don't know what they are it is also possible that they have something to do with it. I just don't know. I didn't remember where it was I had asked that before but I do appreciate you caring enough to remember. Thank you for your kindness. Thanks again. Actually Bob Bob has not shown any stress until just this past week so as far as I was concerned it was just as described here some type of skin alement. Again I'm not sure if it is related to the current problem but can't rule it out either. Here is what I have obsurbed of him this past week. Bob Bob started to slow down on Monday and just not swim as fast as he normally would for food. No flashing or scratching at all. On Wednesday he started listing to one side slightly but since he was eating and his fins were erect I figured he was just acting odd (like he normally does) but I took note of his condition. On Friday he had a slightly larger arch as though he was favoring his side and was listing much more but not fully on his side. He also started using plants to keep him near the top of the water surface or just away from the bully Jaws(white Oranda). I noticed he was acting like he was choaking so I looked into his mouth and didn't see anything that morning. I checked after work and saw something in their and was able to pull out a chunk of food that was stuck in his mouth. But he is still acting like he is choaking but he is eating and pooing. So food is going through him as I tested it with 2 different color foods. 1 tan and the other green and his poo reflected the change. Now he sits on the bottom as though he is stuck and unable to swim up to the top of the tank. Whatever it is, is bright white. Now the one thing about them that doesn't work with that description is they never leave any damage behind. Even the last time when you helped me out one scale was bumped up a little but I think that was just a coincidence since it hasn't happened since. I did include some information below as to what I have found on it just to make sure we are talking about the same thing. His slime coat on his eyes has a slight haze on them but it may be the bumping into the heater that has caused that or where I used Permoxyn. He didn't have this discolored look before. After handling him and bumping him around last night I noticed his dorsal fin had a few small tares in it. Since I have removed some water each morning I decided to add Melafix and Permafix to help re-grow the damaged area and sooth the pain. I checked this morning and the damage has NOT gotten any worse and looks as though it is going to heal over (white edging) As far as being bent as I described above it just started a few days ago. As far as I can tell their is no reddening or yellowing of his fins. I saw a few photos of water molds online but these don't look like what I'm getting. They suggest they turn green or black and what I am seeing is bright white. They appear anywhere from the side of the fish to the nose of the fish. I don't think I have ever seen them on a fin though but that may be because they get moved around so much and they fall off. I have spent countless hours researching this to come up empty handed. I have raised the salt content up to .01%and will do that again today to see if it will help him more. Thanks again for everything. I can't tell you how much I appreciate your help. I have so many things going on from helping a friend who is loosing his battle with cancer to my girlfriend who has some type of skin disorder that just started a few months back to possibly getting a new home. Again thank's for all your help! James
  24. Here are the test results I am getting using all drop method test kits and have confirmed using the old untrusty dip sticks.Ammonia 0 ppm Nitrate 10ppm nitrite 0 ppm gh 300 ppm alkalinity 120 ppm PH 7.2 Thank you for the comment. When I take photos of the tank I tend to feed the little piggys so they will stop playing in and behind the plants. So they are not actually floating or staying up at the top of the tank although I see what you mean in the photo. He is not chewing on this white stuff. It is on the outside of his body. I found a few websights that have photos of flexibacter columnaris http://www.flippersandfins.net/flexibacter.htm or http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/693/immaginewq4.jpg. This is not the same thing I am describing. It is odd white flakes that accumulate in spots randemly on the Goldfish. Their are at most 3 spots at a time and one of the spots normally appear right behind the left eye of my Moor. But again if I touch them they decentagrate to super tiny flakes and just disappear. I am going to get a scrape of one of these areas if he dies and get a couple photos under the microscope. He is weak right now and doesn't move much so I don't want to stress him out any more. The areas that this affects is at most 1/2 the size of the wood part of a pencil and stands about as high as it is wide. Imagine 30 or less super LARGE ich attached together in a clump and when you touch them they just let go and tend to just disappear. They are bright white but I don't know much more than that. He was eager for food this morning but only ate 1/4 of a pea so I'm still confused on that. It's almost like he can't eat anymore. Yesterday hHe actually had food in his throat and was yawning quite a bit so I started to think he was choaking. I checked that morning to see if I could see anything but didn't. After I got home from work that is when I got the food out because he was still choaking/yawning. If you have any suggestions I am more than happy to listen. And honestly thank you for your help. James PS: Sorry for all the mis-spellings just in a hurry.
  25. Ammonia Level? 0 Nitrite Level? 0 Nitrate level? 0 Ph Level, (If possible,KH and GH and chloramines)? 7.2 Ph Level (KH/GH) out of the Tap? 7.0 Brand of test-kit used? (strips or drops?) drops [*]Tank size (How many Gals) and How long has it been running? 10 gallons 2 days [*]What is the name and size of the filter/s? Not 100% sure but is just circulating water no media in it [*]How often do you change the water and how much? 20% every week [*]How many fish in the tank and their size? 1 [*]What kind of water additives or conditioners? prime The water is also aged for at least 1 full day before being used. [*]Any medications added to the tank? medigold, salt, prazipro [*]Add any new fish to the tank? no [*]What do you feed your fish? pellets, flakes, peas, oranges, bananna, apple, grapes, bloodworms, shrimp pellets, baby shrimp, blood worms, and some more that I can't think of right now. basically a varried diet. [*]Any unusual findings on the fish such as"grains of salt", bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Their are white tufts of stuff. They flake apart in many little peaces if disturbed. [*]Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating,ect..? Bob Bob (Goldfish) is now laying mostly on the bottom with a slight curve in his back. He was acting like he was choaking so I took an eyeglass screwdriver and was able to pull out a small peace of food that was stuck in the roof of his mouth. He is moving around more now but I feel it wasn't the true blockage and I am unable to go any further back. I know a lot going on. He was acting like he was choaking and that is why I looked and found the food stuck in his mouth (way back). If their is their is nothing more I can do. I did see him poo this morning after removing that food though. I'm more concerned on the white tufts though. Those have been on him for almost 3 months now. I haven't been able to find anything like it online. It was suggested to me that it may be a skin irritation but it just seams strange that it appears on top of the scales and not under them. Any help is appreciated. James PS: Bob Bob (black moor) is normally kept in a 125 gallon tank with over 100 plants and 2 other Goldfish. The water quality their has been stable at: Ammonia Level? 0 Nitrite Level? 0 Nitrate level? between 0 to 10 on my chart but mostly closer to 10 Ph Level, (If possible,KH and GH and chloramines)? 7.2 Here is a newer photo but harder to see of the tank setup.
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