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toothless

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Everything posted by toothless

  1. Could be a mechanical injury. Goldies get them from time to time. Keep a close eye on it and let us know if anything new arises....
  2. Hi. Whether you do this or not is up to you. The success rate of actually clearing egg bound goldfish is supposedly rather low. In fact, too much pressure applied too late in the process of impaction can rupture the infected ovaries and cause the worst. It's risky and I don't want you to think any less. Here's a page I came across: http://www.goldfishvet.com/faqs/eggimpactionquestions.html I've read several of his (Dr. Johnsons) other pages in the past and he does not recommend it if the fish has been egg bound long. See, I can't really tell with a large degree of certainty that this IS eggbinding , I only have suspicions. I really wish I could tell you more. Perhaps just lightly handling her each day would help. Just to allow her to bump herself into your hands or fingers with her own body mass and momentum.... Sorry to discourage the stripping, I'm just not sure it's the right thing.....
  3. Look at that pudger! It looks to me like his tail fin is growing back nicely. I don't remember a "before" pic but I can plainly see that theres new growth as evident from the fine smoothness of the edge. The scalloped look shows that the rot didn't progress far enough to affect the growth of the fine rays. If his tail is any indication of how his other fins are doing then I would say you were quite successful at fending off infection long enough for him to regain control. PP is quite remarkable stuff. If used properly, it's probably THE most widely applicable chemical for treating sick goldfish other than salt. Even that's debatable..... Paul
  4. Wow! I am soooo excited for you! I know someone who's had the operation your going in for and it's helped him immensely. He explained to me about the positive feedback loop that occurs and how the patch stops the process from snowballing into a seizure by emitting electrical impulses the interfere with the misfires and some more stuff I can't remember. It's all terribly interesting.... As for your fish, I sure hope you're going to have someone else taking care of them while you're resting up from the procedure. Don't go doing anything foolish like straining yourself...... Trust me on the salt. The directions I outlined above will get your fish through the cycling phase quite nicely. Just be sure that the ammonia remains below 1ppm and the nitrIte remains below 2ppm. Good Luck! You're going to be a new person after this! Paul
  5. It's definitely not normal, thats for sure. Any ideas whos poo it might have been? Noticed any changes in behavior when these poos appear? Paul
  6. Hmmm, I wonder if this is some egg impaction. Tumors and such just don't grow that fast.... If this is egg impaction, your going to need to do something because they can rot inside of her and worse. Should you choose to try, here are a couple videos that shows the hand stripping process: The second one is the male but the process is essentially the same. Light pressure moving from the center of body mass towards the vent..... I'll try to find some more vids....
  7. Hi there. I noticed that you haven't mentioned raising the salinity. When cycling new aquariums with goldfish in them, it's generally recommended to raise the salinity to to at least 0.1% for the nitrIte phase. This level of salinity and above provides a certain amount of protection from nitrIte poisoning due to cycling or bio-filter failures. To attain that salinity, dissolve 1gram per liter in newly drawn or aged water to add to the tank. This is the surest, most precise way to dose. Otherwise dissolve 0.13oz per gallon OR 3/4 level teaspoon per gallon. Keep in mind that when dosing by volume suggestions and care-sheets are ALL referring to medium grade salt crystals such as Doc Wellfish's aquarium salt. Also, salt cannot be filtered out nor can it evaporate. So, do not add salt to water that you use to top-off the tank from evaporation and be precise and careful about your maths and the actual gallonage of the tank. The black line is definitely a sign of ammonia burns which signifies healing and that the ammonia is no longer present. This is reflected in your test results as well. Not to mention, she ate and pooped. It's no coincidence. However, the nitrIte phase is the one that can do some immediate damage as well as cause long term health effects. The salinity level I suggested above while help but only to an extent. Luckily, you have Prime. From here on out, use Prime, double dose at every waterchange. Forget about the stresscoat. It's very useful in some instances such as pH crashes but not here. Stick with salt and prime for now... If your fish does indeed have a parasite, we can and will assess that once the tank/filter has reached an equilibrium. But, in the meantime, try to give us a good description of previous and present swimming patterns or body movements/actions that seem out of place. With the correct combination of symptoms, I can often link parasites into the equation even though the cycling process produces some similar symptoms. In fact, each time you post, give us an update on present behavioral observations. Good luck and post back soon.....
  8. They're nothing to worry about at all. They make excellent snacks for fry and small fish. What you're seeing is called planaria and they are harmless. However, they can sometimes indicate too much bio-matter (poo and uneaten food) building up somewhere in the system. If there are only a few here and there, don't worry. If they are too unsightly, you can eliminate them very easily with either praziquantel, droncit, or even parasite clear (which contains prazi)....... Hope that helps alleviate your worries! Paul
  9. I am a 3rd generation shrimper so much of my youth was spent on and around shrimpboats and out to sea. Being the son of a fisherman allowed me to dissect MANY fish through the years. Once I started keeping aquatic animals and began seeing diseases, it was only natural for me to investigate disease and unexplained deaths by performing autopsies and microscopic exams of tissues. I just don't have the money or resources to have culture/sensitivities of infected tissues done. I am by no means formally schooled, nor an expert but I HAVE learned a bit over the years.....
  10. I'm glad the redness seems to be fading. That a good sign. However, the bulge growing noticeably is'nt. Whatever it is, I hope it ceases to grow..... How does the sling work for her? Are you still trying it on her at all? Is there a chance you could snap a few pics of her with it on? That is, IF you are still trying it. Good luck and hang in there. Paul
  11. Definitely go with what you have right now. How is she doing? Can you update us on everything? Good luck! PAul
  12. I can only assume that, because he doesn't eat much, his body mass is lean. This, along with his digestive tract being mostly bare, may cause his port to bulge. Could this be what your seeing? You say he's up and about more now? Could you elaborate on Sash's apparent injury? It sounds hideous!
  13. It certainly was something to see a seemingly healthy goldfish go so quickly. I performed a postmortem and the only thing I could find was a mess for ovaries. He, turned out to be a She. I think egg impaction was the cause..... The turtle, a razorback musk, made her way from the kiddie pool in the back yard all the way to the front of the house, looked and saw a huge, open, hot, dry "outer space" and made a bee-line, apparently, into the garage where it was nice and cool. It took me 12 hours of searching, night and day, through my huge yard full of leaves the exact size and color of her shell. I actually didn't sleep at all the first night. I'm happy I found her though. I've had her for about ten years now. I would raise it to 0.3%, anything less isn't really much help at all. The anti-bac bath is a product that Goldfish connection sells that is basically an antibiotic/disinfectant powder that goes into solution for a bath treatment. It's very similar to the triple sulfa dips made for reptiles. Sorry, I forgot to elaborate on that... Keep up the good work and you might have things licked before you know it......
  14. Hmmmm, Wow! I did a little research and it seems as though you might have something there. Indeed plants, including some beans, possess nodules in their root systems that are formed by nitrifying bacteria. This looks pretty good thus far.... I hope you can get a comprehensive report together for the tip of the month. Try to include type of bean, amount of roots by weight, length of time til ammonia and nitrIte reach 0ppm, starting ammonia level or stocking/feeding density, etc, etc. This way, it can actually be verifiable when someone tries it. Thanks! Paul
  15. Sorry for not being here for a couple days. I had a sick goldfish and a missing turtle all in one swoop. Found the turtle but I lost the goldfish. Fine one day, on the bottom the next day, dropsy kicked in and he died. It happened so darn fast...... These spots you're seeing are characteristic of areas where the slime was breached and some organism got in and did some damage. In most cases, the spots appear where the fins come into prolonged contact with the bottom or other surfaces. A goldfish, with long flowing fins, sleeping in a sweet spot at or near the bottom will often have these spots. The mechanism here is based on the fact that EVERY single surface in the aquarium is a plane that organisms inhabit. The soft tissues of fins are very easy for organisms to walk, swim or flit to and investigate. Many of those organisms may/may not be pathogens but still inflict slight damage just from their presence or actions alone. In short, this can happen to even the healthiest of fish from time to time and aren't considered to be dangerous. However, if they appear and get progressively worse rather quickly, then something is afoot and needs tending to. For now, just concentrate on water quality, perhaps some salinity and keep that UV kickin'. Keep us posted. PAul
  16. Luckily, he seems to be able to keep himself upright 90% of the time. It's when he ventures around the tank that he sometimes "trips" and winds up fully laying on his side. He swims in a tight circular pattern until he either catches a "draft" of water that lifts him from the bottom or he winds up at a plant or the side of a tank to help himself upright. Sometimes he runs out of pep attempting to upright himself. Thats when he'll rest for a minute before going at it again. It never takes more than a couple minutes though. I just wish he would swim up in the water column more. He spends nearly all his time within an inch or two of the bottom....
  17. Methylene blue has its uses but it isn't really what is needed here. However, in the absence of other obtainable medications, it could help as part of a treatment schedule. I am going to research what medications are available to you in the Philippines. Do you live in a region that has special laws that differ elsewhere in the Philippines? Most importantly, tell us how your fish are doing? Also, please try to give us an update on them each day. Good luck and post back soon. Paul
  18. Wow! Carol is something else, isn't she? She is, by far, the most knowledgeable goldfish keeper I know. The sling is an idea that can be an excellent addition to Carol's advice about "walking". However, it's probably best that you get things sorted out first. Try to work out a logical treatment plan that is conducive to your schedule and get Comet going on it. Let's work on the red spot on her side first.... Is this red spot the area that comes into contact with the air as she floats? If so, use plain triple antibiotic ointment on it daily. Try to describe to us, in detail, her swimming habits/patterns. Can she swim to the bottom? Can she temporarily right herself? Does she try to swim much? How has her level of energy/lethargy changed in the past few months? Some in depth descriptions would really help illuminate the whole picture..... For a weight you can use pretty much anything that has weight, is inert (river rock, glass, etc.) and isn't sharp or jagged. Some ways that you can secure the weight to the gauze are; super glue, sewing string, fine fishing line (mono filament), etc. If you use super glue, be sure not to leave any jagged edges or points that can come into contact with Comet. Fishing line ends can be singed with a lighter to round them off. Your going to want to make a bunch of different slings of varying designs so that you can tailor them to the specific mechanics involved with Comets buoyancy. I am still looking for a good video of hand stripping goldfish or something similar. Regardless, I would only try it if options become scarce. Keep us updated.... Paul
  19. Your going to have to bite the bullet and run that filter FULL time. There's no way around it. Even with large waterchanges each day, your only extending the bad variables detrimental to fish health. So, we need to figure out a way for your filter to be run all the time. What is the noise that is distracting? Splashing water? If so, fill the tank to the brim so that the water easily courses across the surface of the tankwater. No splashing. If that isn't possible, then just take some clean gauze or well rinsed towel or t-shirt and cut a square out of it so that the water returning to the tank is muffled as it flows across the towel. Just a large enough piece to do the trick, no more. Secure it well. Just place the towel where the water is returning. If its a grinding noise then just try wedge little peices of paper in the impeller housing area to tighten the fit. Finals or no finals, You REALLY have to keep this filter running. Otherwise your sick one/s will definitely get worse. There's no question in my mind. Do not trust those ammonia disks (by jungle labs I assume? ) A full set of test kits is your only hope here. Ammonia. nitrIte, nitrAte and pH are the necessities. They are detrimental to keeping your fish healthy. These bruise like spots, Are they dark patches that resemble brown or black patches? That would be ammonia burns setting in. A definite sign that your ammonia disk isn't working. Keep in mind that different fish have different resistances to water chemistry problems and even different resistances to parasites. Just because one fish is doing well in a tank with a fish that isn't doesn't mean that something in the water column isn't causing it. Post back soon and good luck on your finals!
  20. Cycle doesn't help your tank and filter mature any faster than if you didn't use it at all. It is the equivalent of snake oil. It doesn't hurt, but it doesn't help either. The ONLY product that can help your tank cycle faster would be Bio-Spira (marineland labs) and is sold at select fish shops everywhere. Call ahead to avoid a wasted drive. Bio-Spira is and always should be kept refrigerated. So, if when you buy it, it isn't nice and cold, don't. I would venture to say that your goldfish is suffering from either water quality issues and/or parasites. Is the tank fully cycled now? Try answering all of the questions from the white box above. Please be a clear as you can and try not to omit even the smallest detail. Sometimes even the smallest bit of info leads to the "smoking gun"..... Post back soon. Paul
  21. Oh, I'm so sorry to hear that.....
  22. Stuck to the filtr intake??? Was he dead? I sure hope not.... Do you provide any plants or ornaments he can wedge himself into? If not, I would get him a nice bushy silk plant so that he can wedge himself into it to stay stable while he's resting...... Post back soon. Paul
  23. Hi there. Sorry about not being here sooner. I thought my first received PM was referring me to a different thread.... I noticed that you haven't stated that you've tried fasting. I also noticed that you haven't commented on whether or not Comet is pooping. Have you? Is Comet pooping? This is beginning to sound like a problem that has been exacerbated by poor advice from the local fish shop. Medicated food, in no way, should ever be given to a goldfish that is only exhibiting SBD issues. The stress induced by the introduction of medications can often do more harm than good if the medication isn't called for. The same goes for the "fungus" treatment. There really ought to be a law against allowing store employees to give advice about treatment if they aren't using some sort of protocol method. It's obviously to me that the word protocol wasn't even in the employees vocabulary.... I would fast this fish for a few days to see if that will help. That is, unless this has been tried recently. In truth, there really isn't much more you can do for your goldie (besides what you've tried already) other than try to make its life a little better. Swelling on one side of the body generally indicates a growth of an internal tumor or egg impaction. If egg impaction were the problem, you could try to gently strip the eggs. However, this could conceivably cause damage if the swelling was due to a tumor. If done correctly though, eggs will be released if that is the case. This is entirely up to you..... Have you ever heard of an SBD sling? In the pic below, you will see a strip going across the fish's body. This is gauze. Tied to the gauze at the top is a section of string wich has a small piece of styrofoam. This is for sinking fish. The string at the bottom has a small weight tied to it. This is for floaters/flippers. This string really only needs to be as long as it takes to tie the weight to the gauze. The weight can actually be wrapped inside of the gauze to eliminate the string. This method works great but you have to be really good about using a new piece of gauze every day or two. Use lots of vaseline and/or triple antibiotic ointment so that the gauze doesn't rub the slime away from the skin too much. Lets see if I can get this to load for you..... I will go and look for a video of a breeder hand stripping eggs for you. This might be a possibility for you. I can't be sure yet though....... Post back soon. Paul
  24. It looks GREAT, Lola! And your going to sleep well knowing that their water column is kept soooper clear of excess protozoans and other microscopic bugs that can become a problem........
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