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  1. Could be a mechanical injury. Goldies get them from time to time. Keep a close eye on it and let us know if anything new arises....
  2. Hi. Whether you do this or not is up to you. The success rate of actually clearing egg bound goldfish is supposedly rather low. In fact, too much pressure applied too late in the process of impaction can rupture the infected ovaries and cause the worst. It's risky and I don't want you to think any less. Here's a page I came across: http://www.goldfishvet.com/faqs/eggimpactionquestions.html I've read several of his (Dr. Johnsons) other pages in the past and he does not recommend it if the fish has been egg bound long. See, I can't really tell with a large degree of certainty that this IS eggbinding , I only have suspicions. I really wish I could tell you more. Perhaps just lightly handling her each day would help. Just to allow her to bump herself into your hands or fingers with her own body mass and momentum.... Sorry to discourage the stripping, I'm just not sure it's the right thing.....
  3. Look at that pudger! It looks to me like his tail fin is growing back nicely. I don't remember a "before" pic but I can plainly see that theres new growth as evident from the fine smoothness of the edge. The scalloped look shows that the rot didn't progress far enough to affect the growth of the fine rays. If his tail is any indication of how his other fins are doing then I would say you were quite successful at fending off infection long enough for him to regain control. PP is quite remarkable stuff. If used properly, it's probably THE most widely applicable chemical for treating sick goldfish other than salt. Even that's debatable..... Paul
  4. Wow! I am soooo excited for you! I know someone who's had the operation your going in for and it's helped him immensely. He explained to me about the positive feedback loop that occurs and how the patch stops the process from snowballing into a seizure by emitting electrical impulses the interfere with the misfires and some more stuff I can't remember. It's all terribly interesting.... As for your fish, I sure hope you're going to have someone else taking care of them while you're resting up from the procedure. Don't go doing anything foolish like straining yourself...... Trust me on the salt. The directions I outlined above will get your fish through the cycling phase quite nicely. Just be sure that the ammonia remains below 1ppm and the nitrIte remains below 2ppm. Good Luck! You're going to be a new person after this! Paul
  5. It's definitely not normal, thats for sure. Any ideas whos poo it might have been? Noticed any changes in behavior when these poos appear? Paul
  6. Hmmm, I wonder if this is some egg impaction. Tumors and such just don't grow that fast.... If this is egg impaction, your going to need to do something because they can rot inside of her and worse. Should you choose to try, here are a couple videos that shows the hand stripping process: The second one is the male but the process is essentially the same. Light pressure moving from the center of body mass towards the vent..... I'll try to find some more vids....
  7. Hi there. I noticed that you haven't mentioned raising the salinity. When cycling new aquariums with goldfish in them, it's generally recommended to raise the salinity to to at least 0.1% for the nitrIte phase. This level of salinity and above provides a certain amount of protection from nitrIte poisoning due to cycling or bio-filter failures. To attain that salinity, dissolve 1gram per liter in newly drawn or aged water to add to the tank. This is the surest, most precise way to dose. Otherwise dissolve 0.13oz per gallon OR 3/4 level teaspoon per gallon. Keep in mind that when dosing by volume suggestions and care-sheets are ALL referring to medium grade salt crystals such as Doc Wellfish's aquarium salt. Also, salt cannot be filtered out nor can it evaporate. So, do not add salt to water that you use to top-off the tank from evaporation and be precise and careful about your maths and the actual gallonage of the tank. The black line is definitely a sign of ammonia burns which signifies healing and that the ammonia is no longer present. This is reflected in your test results as well. Not to mention, she ate and pooped. It's no coincidence. However, the nitrIte phase is the one that can do some immediate damage as well as cause long term health effects. The salinity level I suggested above while help but only to an extent. Luckily, you have Prime. From here on out, use Prime, double dose at every waterchange. Forget about the stresscoat. It's very useful in some instances such as pH crashes but not here. Stick with salt and prime for now... If your fish does indeed have a parasite, we can and will assess that once the tank/filter has reached an equilibrium. But, in the meantime, try to give us a good description of previous and present swimming patterns or body movements/actions that seem out of place. With the correct combination of symptoms, I can often link parasites into the equation even though the cycling process produces some similar symptoms. In fact, each time you post, give us an update on present behavioral observations. Good luck and post back soon.....
  8. They're nothing to worry about at all. They make excellent snacks for fry and small fish. What you're seeing is called planaria and they are harmless. However, they can sometimes indicate too much bio-matter (poo and uneaten food) building up somewhere in the system. If there are only a few here and there, don't worry. If they are too unsightly, you can eliminate them very easily with either praziquantel, droncit, or even parasite clear (which contains prazi)....... Hope that helps alleviate your worries! Paul
  9. I am a 3rd generation shrimper so much of my youth was spent on and around shrimpboats and out to sea. Being the son of a fisherman allowed me to dissect MANY fish through the years. Once I started keeping aquatic animals and began seeing diseases, it was only natural for me to investigate disease and unexplained deaths by performing autopsies and microscopic exams of tissues. I just don't have the money or resources to have culture/sensitivities of infected tissues done. I am by no means formally schooled, nor an expert but I HAVE learned a bit over the years.....
  10. I'm glad the redness seems to be fading. That a good sign. However, the bulge growing noticeably is'nt. Whatever it is, I hope it ceases to grow..... How does the sling work for her? Are you still trying it on her at all? Is there a chance you could snap a few pics of her with it on? That is, IF you are still trying it. Good luck and hang in there. Paul
  11. Definitely go with what you have right now. How is she doing? Can you update us on everything? Good luck! PAul
  12. I can only assume that, because he doesn't eat much, his body mass is lean. This, along with his digestive tract being mostly bare, may cause his port to bulge. Could this be what your seeing? You say he's up and about more now? Could you elaborate on Sash's apparent injury? It sounds hideous!
  13. It certainly was something to see a seemingly healthy goldfish go so quickly. I performed a postmortem and the only thing I could find was a mess for ovaries. He, turned out to be a She. I think egg impaction was the cause..... The turtle, a razorback musk, made her way from the kiddie pool in the back yard all the way to the front of the house, looked and saw a huge, open, hot, dry "outer space" and made a bee-line, apparently, into the garage where it was nice and cool. It took me 12 hours of searching, night and day, through my huge yard full of leaves the exact size and color of her shell. I actually didn't sleep at all the first night. I'm happy I found her though. I've had her for about ten years now. I would raise it to 0.3%, anything less isn't really much help at all. The anti-bac bath is a product that Goldfish connection sells that is basically an antibiotic/disinfectant powder that goes into solution for a bath treatment. It's very similar to the triple sulfa dips made for reptiles. Sorry, I forgot to elaborate on that... Keep up the good work and you might have things licked before you know it......
  14. Hmmmm, Wow! I did a little research and it seems as though you might have something there. Indeed plants, including some beans, possess nodules in their root systems that are formed by nitrifying bacteria. This looks pretty good thus far.... I hope you can get a comprehensive report together for the tip of the month. Try to include type of bean, amount of roots by weight, length of time til ammonia and nitrIte reach 0ppm, starting ammonia level or stocking/feeding density, etc, etc. This way, it can actually be verifiable when someone tries it. Thanks! Paul
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