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Everything posted by kusackaid

  1. I started with 8 cherry shrimp in a tank with platies, mollies, and wcmm, I now have well over 200 and have had to move some out to plant tanks to dilute the population between trips to the fish store to trade some in.
  2. Both the danios and the guppies are likely to get eaten as the goldfish grow larger. These also have different water requirements from goldfish. Tropicals are called tropical because they need warmer water. Goldfish are a coldwater fish and do not tolerate temperatures that most tropicals require for long periods. Some plecos are ok with goldfish. Standard plecos are not reccomended because when they grow larger they sometimes get a liking for slime coat and can kill a goldfish while it sleeps. Bristle nosed plecos, rubber mouth plecos, and one or two other smaller types of plecos are ok to put in with goldies. Snails may or may not last with goldfish. Some goldfish play soccer with the snail shells and kill the occupants. Other goldies will leave snails alone totally, it depends on the individual fish. When stocking your tank keep in mind that fancy goldfish require 10 gallons of water per fish, and commons and comets require 20 gallons per fish...minimum. On top of this both plecos and snails are also very messy aquatic inhabitants and can make as much waste as a goldfish when grown. Dojo or weather loaches can be kept with goldfish, but they need to be in groups of at least 3 or more dojos to be happy and healthy. There are two types of dojos, the standard coloration and an albino coloring sometimes known as a golden dojo loach. White cloud mountain minnows have the same water requirements as goldfish. However, you will have the same problem with the minnows as with danios or guppies...as the goldies grow bigger, minnows start to look edible. The minnows are a schooling fish and should be kept in groups of 5 or more. I hope this helps, and if you have any more questions just ask.
  3. I can't think of a fish that "smiles" or similar. However, corydoras can move their eyes in a way that makes them appear to wink at you.
  4. Dojo's don't do well being alone. It is best to keep them in groups of at least 3 dojos. They need physical contact with others to feel safe. Also when treating them you need to be careful because they are considered to be a scaless fish, and are more sensitive to all medications and additives than regular fish are.
  5. I did not think that brine shrimp could survive for long in freshwater. That said, could they be juvinile ghost shrimp?
  6. Giving details of your setup and maintenance for the fry could help us see if there is anything that could be changed to help them. That said there are ages of goldfish fry where breeders notice dieoffs. These are normal and unavoidable. One of those times is right about the one month mark. It seems that at these ages some possibly unnoticed defect in the fry gets to the point where the size of the fish is now too large for the defect to continue to function well enough to continue life. Sometimes you notice signs of a fry going to die, other times the just die out of the blue with no warning. With more information we may be able to tell if these are natural die offs, or if there is something that could be changed in their environment to help.
  7. Your little one is about as round as I have seen them. That is an absolutely beautiful pearlie you got.
  8. I have seen people out camping that have a car battery and a converter that acts like a normal power strip. I don't know how long that would last, but if you did not evacuate and lost power you could plug in filters air pumps and all into it. I do know it can run a television and gaming console for at least 6 hours, I would think a filter and air pump would draw less energy by far than that.
  9. Plecos don't need any substrate. As long as they have a place or two to hide from the other fish and the light during the day they should be fine with gravel, barebottom, river rocks, or other setups.
  10. I noticed yesterday morning that my plants in the living room tank are now squeaky clean! All of them had hair algae growing to some degree along the edges that the plecos won't eat. So one of the big 7 apparently has a taste for hair algae. This will be the first fish I have that will eat the stuff at all. If I could only figure out which one of them is doing it.
  11. There are also 29 gallon tanks that are longer than they are tall. Either way you shouldnt have any problems unless the sealent is old and cracking or peeling.
  12. It would seem like you cant have too much filter media in a filter. I have found however, that if you place too much, or a denser material than was originally intended, you can greatly hinder the flow of HOB filters. I have to add crushed coral to all my tanks because we have 0 hardness here. This has caused some filter flow problems in a couple of my filters. I have to fudge with the sacks every time I touch the filter to make sure the water can get through, and one of them has to have the sack hanging in the waterfall because placing it anywhere within the filter prevents a good flow.
  13. I finally got the 10 gal cleared up so I can see to the back. So today all the fry large enough to eat an adult food pellet whole got moved to the 30 gal downstairs. I left the smaller guys upstairs so they won't have to compete as much now for food and will hopefully start to gain on their larger siblings...or not. So 7 bigguns got moved, and that leaves the 5 little guys upstairs. To accomodate the little fry moving into the 30 gal, Fry Fry their older (1 year old next week!) sibling from last years spawning moved into the 46 upstairs with his mom and dad. He went from being the giant in the tank to being about 1/4 of the size of his parents. His dad could care less, but mom seems a bit curious. Every time she swims in his direction he seems to go into panic mode "AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH GIANT COMING MY WAAAY!!!!!!!!!" and tries to keep 6 inches between them, even tho mom is not being agressive or even swimming fast at all. Oh, Fry Fry is finally starting to color up...he is gonna be gold! All but two of my fry have shorter tails that are mostly fused down the middle, and viewed better from above. The other two I suspect are fathered by my much longer finned black moor, they almost look like they have shark fins, and their tails are a shape I have not seen described before (not fused, as long as their bodies are, and well sorta reminds me of ribbon ends), both are the darker color now that will probably turn gold later. Of all 12, I have a single fry displaying pearlscales so far, it is a little calico with mismatched eyes that I call Patches. There is a larger patches lookalike that got moved to the big tank, but does not have any paerlies. Then there is the one we are calling Pig Jr. This fry has been the largest since about 4 weeks old, and has almost identical coloring to pig, the common we recently gave away...except he also has some black speckles and stripes in the tail. And now to the fun part....piccies The 7 in the bucket while being moved you can see the two tail types here. more bucket shots. These show the real coloring in the dark ones, as I didnt realize the camera was on the color accent mode before. Sorta a tank shot with the bigguns in their new home. Someone is a bit aprehensive at first. Shots of the darkies by the plants. So far the big ones dont seem to have problems with the extra current in the tank, they ate well when food was offered, but also seem to stick in groups most of the time. Hopefully in the next day or so they get a bit more adventerous and take advantage of the entire tank.
  14. They are born as tiny fish with a complete set of tiny fins to match. I have a 25 gal tank in the kitchen which currently holds all of my livebearers. I have mollies, platties, and a single guppie female thats sterile in there. I get fry anywhere from once a week to once a month, on a sort of cycle as the various adults give birth. When the tank starts to get filled up...a group of the adolescent (usually male) fish get sent to the store. For some reason I have more males that survive than females, and more platties than mollies. But the platties are larger at birth and that may give them an advantage to not getting eaten. Enjoy your fry and the stronger, faster, smarter ones will survive. With only one adult female in your tank right now you should be able to place these fry before you get overcrowded with more. And females get along with females with no males. I am pretty sure the same is true in male only, but have never had that setup personally. One option if you want to go all female, is to keep one of your fry that turns up female and send the father to the store with the rest of the fry, that way you dont spend more money on buying a female...and its cool to have adult fish in your tanks that you can say were born in your tanks.
  15. It really depends on the individual fish and the living conditions for the past year. Some fish will spawn once, release all of their eggs, and be done for the entire year. Others once a month, or once a week. My fish last year spawned once a week, always on the same day, for 3 months before stopping. She did not however release a ton of eggs at once, usually between 10-30 at a time. This year the same fish spawned twice so far, both much larger groups of eggs and has seemed to stop. So your fish may stop after this, or they may continue untill the weather starts to cool down. From what I have seen of breeding behavior, the males will usually not chase a female unless they still have eggs to give up. Of course there are probably the exceptions to this that think "if I bug her enough she will give in" no matter if the female still has eggs or not.
  16. Both your betta and the adult mollies may be eating the fry. It is good that there are a lot of hiding places for them. If possible, it is best to have a corner away from the filter with dense bunches of fine leaved plants (either real or fake) that the fry can get in and out of...but the larger fish cannot. It may be that the fry are hiding in the bettas cave and seeing this, she is eating them as food or just to defend her territory. You can try putting her back in the tank and watch, but it may not work out till the fry are a few weeks old. The fry will eat bits of algae off plants and tank decor, along with small bits of whatever food the adults are eating. If your fry are at the top of the tank they will likely take floating food. But if they are hanging out towards the bottom, they will need something that sinks down to their level. I do not alter the food fed to my livebearer tank for the fry, and they manage quite well. I feed hikari micro pellets, and omega one shrimp pellets. By about two weeks old most of my fry can manage the micro pellets in a couple of bites, and they both float on the surface and sink slowly so it feeds everyone no matter where they are hanging out. Sometime between two and three months of age the fry should be big enough to take to the store. When they are close to half the size of the adults and you can start to see the difference between the males and females they are big enough to go to the store. With careful monitoring of the water parameters you can probably keep all the fry in the 10 gal untill they are big enough to go to the store. At most you would be able to keep two of the fry to full grown...however, you will constantly be getting new batches of fry so that may not be a good idea unless you really get attached to a particular one, as it would overstock the tank with each new group of fry.
  17. You can't really overdose for the python. For the crystals, most people reccomend adding enough so the water is a nice deepish purple. Soak the python for 5 hours then deactivate the PP with either hydrogen peroxide, or any water dechlorinator till the water is brown and not purple any more. Then all you have to do is rinse it out. By deactivating the PP first there is no risk of leftovers causing problems with your fish or cycle when using the python later. There is a chance that your python may get dyed purple or brown by this treatment. When soaking equipment or tanks (without fish/plants) always cover it because sunlight will deactivate the PP and make the treatment not as effective. For the plants I am not sure on the liquid dosing. There are dosings for the crystals. But plant dips should be done for a shorter period of time (between 30 seconds and 10 minutes depending on concentration and type of leaves) then placed in a quarantine of sorts without fish for a week or two. Redo the PP treatment once more before rinsing and placing in a tank if you have not seen any signs of snails or other unwanteds in the quarantine period between dips. You should be able to find crystalized PP at sears by the water heaters. It is sold as a way to regenerate manual iron removal filters. It is made by Kenmore. The bollte will be a bit more expensive than your liquid bottle, but should last a lot longer as it takes very little to make a sterilizing solution.
  18. How big are they tip to tail? With 6 of them I would say by an inch long at the latest they should be given a larger home. Remember, with fry you can stunt their growth if kept in too cramped of conditions. This can be alleviated to some extent by frequent waterchanges, which it looks like you are doing. But I say you can never go wrong with more space. And, after they are swimming about they should be able to handle deeper expanses of water, as long as the filter flow is not too strong for them. If possible the 20 gal would be the best as it would allow them to grow the most before you have to move them again.
  19. At one time I had a piece of a 2 liter bottle to reduce the current from the filter in one of my tanks. One day I came home to find my male bn pleco had crawled his way up the outside of it...he was "sunbathing" at the top above the tank, totally in the air. And, he did NOT want to leave that place. I eventually had to remove the current modifier because he kept climbing it. Good luck with all the new arrivals.
  20. It partly depends on how fast your fry are developing and growing. By two months of age most fry should be able to handle the worms. Some may still be small enough they have problems, esp if they are trying to get a bite from the middle and not one of the ends. Some fry may be large enough a couple of weeks earlier, but generally fry don't need foods to develop color untill 2 months old. Bloodworms are a good color enhancing and developing food. The baby brine shrimp and daphnia are easier taken when smaller and provide just as good if not better protein source for younger fry.
  21. The flower world about 45 minutes away from my house has agreed to take pig, my last remaining common, and place him in one of their ponds. He will have other fish to play with or bully as he wants, as well as lots of passerby to try and beg nonexistant food from. I was very pleased with the knowledge level of the staff there. The first thing I heard from them was "I don't know if we can take fish because of the possibility of diseases spreading to our fish". Then they asked why I wanted to give him up. After learning it was his size they said they would consider it. Two weeks later they gave me a call and said they would take him. So today we took him out in a bucket and saw where he would eventually be placed. It is a beautiful pond with 4 seperate pools connected by waterfalls. There are other goldfish in 3 of the pools, and 2 turtles in one of them. The pond is in the "indoor" part so it will be kept warmer in the winter and there should be little to no risk of racoons getting any of the fish. All the other fish are about half the legnth of pig, but well fed, fat, and happy cruising amongst the pond plants. I have pictures of the pond. You can see some of the fish hanging out under the plants. I am sad that pig wont be in my room to greet me every morning begging for food. But on the other hand, I am very happy that he should now have real room to swim around, and other fishy friends to hang out with. He has never been as perky since he was put in a tub by himself. He really needs to have other fish around to compete with. I am also happy to have found a home that knows about the needs of the fish...and I can go visit any day I want to. Pig was the last of the first fish I still had here. The others I brought home with him got put up for adoption over a year ago. I had him for over 4 years, but he has grown too big to be kept in any of my tanks. Without the room for a 100 gallon tank, or permission to dig a pond in the backyard, I felt this was the best alternative to giving him a good home he can live out the rest of his years in. Right now it still hasnt set in that he really is not here any more. By tomorrow I will know how hard this really hit me.
  22. I have standard aquaruim gravel in my tank that has both dojos and goldies. So far none of my goldfish has gotten any stuck in their mouths, but I know some others have had this problem with it. The dojos weren't able to burrow in this gravel when they were smaller. Now however, I regularly find one or two of them buried up to their wiskers and eyes. Any bigger of pieces and your dojos wont be able to burrow. Bigger would remove the choking hazard for the goldfish though. Another alternative is to put a cave of sorts in for your dojos to hang out in. I have coconut huts that are half a coconut shell with a door and a second smaller hole drilled in them to allow access and waterflow. When my dojos arent buried in the gravel they are usually piled up in one of the huts.
  23. What Danicole said about the java fern and the anubis goes for the bananna looking part of the nana plant too. If they are buried they rot and will kill the plant.
  24. In my experience the calicoes always color up first. Usually by 2 months of age you can start to see who will be calico. Other colorings can take longer, sometimes much longer. I have one fry that will be one year old in a couple of weeks...that is still chocolate/bronze on top and creamy white on the belly, still carrying his fry colorings. Daryl knows more about when some of the other colorings tend to show up in the lines she breeds.
  25. For goldfish they need some uv light, either from a tank light or through a window, to keep their orange coloring. I think light can also have some effect on keeping black on black goldies too. They can live without light just fine if you dont mind some potential color change (which is likely to happen anyways with fish we buy). I have a common that got moved from my tank into a big rubbermaid tub when he started bullying the fancies. He used to be orange and white, but has gradually lost the orange now that he no longer gets any uv light.
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