Jump to content

kelz0429

Regular Member
  • Posts

    38
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by kelz0429

  1. After thinking about it for a while, I realize that I DO have live plants (or at least plant-like organims) in my tank--I have Green Hair Algae! I had allowed the algae to cover pretty much every sufrace of my tank (including the viewing surface) but recently scraped all but a portion of the back wall of the tank. Of course, the fake plants, and decorations still have green hair algae covering them, and the gravel has it in patches. I guess that could explain the 0 Nitrate reading? I tested again tonight and found that it is still a definite 0. What do you guys think?
  2. The tank is a 20 gallon tall, I have one 1-2" Fantail and one 2-3" Ryukin (I know I am close to being overstocked...I was given the Ryukin as a gift approximately 2 weeks ago--I am plannig to move my guys to at least a 29 gallon as soon as financially possible). There are no live plants in the tank. The tank is filtered by the Aquaclear 50 with sponge, Biomax and activated carbon. I am currently medicating with a 0.3% salt solution and Melafix and have added crushed coral to the tank within the last week. I have not yet purchased a liquid GH or KH testing kit, but my testing stips (which I DO NOT trust anymore) are telling me that both levels are around 30-40. I am guessing that the levels are getting to be pretty good by now. I have not tested the pH yet b/c all of the test tubes are dirty and I need to let them dry to avoid contaminating the results with tap water. The temp of the water is about 72 degrees (I have been raising it for over a week b/c I am medicating and my tank experience a huge drop in tempurature--approximately 5 degrees in 48 hours) b/c of the unusally cold weather in my area. I performed my last water change on Friday evening.
  3. Hello All! I just tested my water, and these were the results: Ammonia: 0ppm Nitrite: 0ppm Nitrate: 0ppm (Have not yet tested the pH) So, the nitrate test indicated 0. I don't think I have ever seen my tank lower than 5ppm, nor have I seen it over 10. I only perform 15% water changes at one time, so my nitrate levels stay fairly stable. Is this normal? Should these results worry me? Could there be something strange going on?
  4. Thanks, Mads--I appreciate your advice. I do, however, think that my posts have been misinterpreted. My first tests were done using my API test strips, which are registering my pH at 6.6. When I began using the liquid tests, the pH in my tank has registered at a constant reading of somewhere between 7.2 and 7.4 (even after water changes). I am not so sure that I can trust the test strips, as the pH is STILL measuring at 6.6 on the strips, while the liquid tests are measuring 7.2-7.4. I am sorry that I was not as clear as I could have been about the discrepancy between the tests. I do understand that I need to buffer the water in the tank, as the tap is definitely more basic than the tank--so I have hung a bag of crushed coral in the tank(forgot to mention on my last post). I do not believe, however, based on the test results and the constant readings of 7.4ish, that my tank is in a pH crisis. Even after my routine 15% water changes, which I have been doing twice a day since I added SuperBad, the pH (according to the liquid tests) has remained stable, as have all other readings (nitrates have fluctuated, as can be expected, between 5 and 10ppm). As a result of these stable readings (and the fact that I only do 15% water changes), I really do not believe that Oscar has been under constant stress due to pH fluctuations. At this point, I do believe that Oscar is exhibiting symptoms of some kind of illness. I have mentioned Flukes because I know that split fins are a common early symptom of the illness. I have had quite a bit of experience with fin issues, as I have kept Bettas for years. In my experience, fin-rot is almost always a result of a bacterial infection of one kind or another. At this point, Oscars fins are definitely NOT in their usual form, and I think I can even see a hint of red/pint at the very tip of one of his tail fins. As Oscar is completely white, it is difficult to see a whitish edge. I have, however noticed a ragged look (not drastically ragged but ragged nonetheless) at the edge of his fins and a general thinning (if that makes sense). Neither one of the fish are exhibiting any unusual behavior. They have a voracious appetite and seem to be getting along very well. I am slowly raising the temp of the tank tonight, bringing it up to 71 from 69 over the course of a little more than 4 hours. The salt concentration is 0.3% and I have continued to dose with Melafix (although I have not removed the activated carbon from the filter--perhaps I should). Since I am seeing strange fin symptoms in Oscar, is there anything I can do that is gentle that might prevent a continued decline? Again, I am sorry that I was not clear when I explained the inaccuracy of the test strips (I have always used the strips b/c I am not keen on working th corrosive chemicals used in the liquid tests). According to the API Master Test Kit readings, my water is in very good condition and, in case of a true hardness issue (and to deal with the pH of the tap water), I have added the coral. Any other ideas/advice?
  5. I believe this may qualify for a new topic, but do not want to confuse anyone. I am concerned that Oscar may have Skin Flukes or something worse--see last post, above. What should I do outside of what I am already doing? Thanks!
  6. Thanks, guys-I was hoping for good news! I thought he was quite the find when a friend of mine brought him to me as a gift--she got him at a Brand XX superstore. Of course, I am already in love with him, so my opinion is biased.
  7. As I am not a trained or experienced judge of breed standards, I am hoping someone here can help me judge my new addition, SuperBad: I apologize for the poor image quality--I am STILL trying to figure out how to photograph fish. I can't wait to hear your opinions!
  8. Hello all! As everyone has advised, I have been keeping a close eye on Oscar over the past few days. I went out of town for the night last night and, when I arrived home this evening, I had a scary surprise waiting for me: Oscar's tail fins seem to be showing signs of fin-rot. Both of the upper lobes of his tail are split down the center and the tail seems to be generally thinner. He also seems to be clamping his fins just a bit. The water params have stayed stable and are currently: Nitrite: 0ppm Nitrate: 10ppm (before my 15% water change--haven't tested since) Ammonia: 0ppm pH: somewhere between 7.2 and 7.4 I have reached 0.3% salt concentration and am dosing with Melafix (I swear by the stuff when my Bettas' fins are looking ragged). The only thing that has changed dramatically is the temp of the water--I was just able to find and install my heater (will a 25 watt heater sufficiently heat a 20 gallon tank?) and the air temp of my house dropped to around 64 degrees while I was gone (I didn't remember to bump up the heat before I left). The water temp, which is usually pretty stable between 70 and 72, is now just under 65 degrees. There are no signs that SuperBad is nipping Oscar's fins. I am so worried that Oscar is now stricken with a bacterial infection. Could the lower temp of the water contribute to this fin problem? Any ideas/advice?
  9. Thanks, Lolafish! d_golem, I can't believe I had not even considered taking the photos from a distance and Photoshopping them--brilliant!
  10. Well, I tested the water this morning and found that the pH is right at between 7.2 and 7.4 (probably closer to 7.2). The color of the test didn't really seem to change much from last night. I am going to head to my LFS and hope to find a teeny bag of crucshed coral (wish me luck ). I hope the salt will take care of any nasties brought in by SuperBad. Now, I need to be thinking about getting a 30+ gallon tank--I am starting to feel guilty giving them only 20 gallons
  11. Tonight, I was using my Canon A720. I tried Shutter Priority mode first with manual focus and STILL was unable to get a good shot. I think the problem is the swimming back and forth from the front to the back of the tank. Because of this, I can't seem to hold the focus. I also played around a bit with a few of the Scene modes, namely Kids and Pets and Aquarium. I haven't had luck with Macro, as my camera likes to focus on the spots and blemishes on the tank I LOVE macro mode though--I use it constantly! Does anyone have a magic combo of settings? I can go full manual, so please share!
  12. Sorry guys--I totally should have posted this on the Photos board.
  13. Okay...I got a picture in which you can actually see the red veiny streaks in SuperBad's tail fins: Any ideas? Please refer to my previous reply (directly above).
  14. I have NEVER been able to get a good picture of a fish, and it is beginning to drive me MAD! I tried to take some pics of my new arrival, SuperBad, and THIS is what I ended up with: What camera settings do those of you who get such great pics use? I need to learn your tricks! Thanks!
  15. Well, I bought a new API Master Test Kit tonight and began re-tested my water. While I knew my API strips were not as accurate as liquid tests, I had no idea HOW far off they could be. The pH was readings tonight were VERY DIFFERENT. My new results: Ammonia Level: The color was a bit difficult to read--I thought I read 0.25ppm, while my partner said she saw 0ppm Nitrite Level: 0 Nitrate level: 10ppm Ph Level, (If possible,KH and GH and chloramines): pH=it is a toss up between 7.2 and 7.4, KH=strips read between 0 and 40mg/L, GH=strips read between 0 and 30mg/L Ph Level out of the Tap: a definite 8.2 Given my new readings, does anyone have any additional advice--should I suspect the worst with SuperBad...Septicemia??? It seems that my pH could be a BIT higher (7.5 is just about perfect, right?). I know I could add a bit of crushed coral in the filter and on top of the gravel. Other than that, everything seems pretty good, right? I think I am going to raise the temp of the tank. Oscar has never seen temps over 72, so it will be a change for him. Again, any advice is appreciated! Thanks again!
  16. Thank you all for your help. I do feel better now, knowing that the red streaks are a possible side effect of the stress of changing water conditions. Does anyone have an opinion on the Medi-Gold issue? Also, should I raise the temp of the tank? It is sitting between 69 and 70 degrees currently. Another question about salt: How long can the fish remain in such a high salt concentration? Should I be maintaint the salt with water changes for the next week, two weeks? Thanks again!
  17. Thank you for your replies. I do hope a mod arrives soon. I treated Oscar with Medi-Gold for fin rot last year and still have almost an entire bottle/jar. I read on the GoldfishConnection Website that the food should "last" for six months. Any advice on whether or not it is still safe to use...should I wait until I have a new bottle? As for the pH, I will grab a box of baking soda at the grocery tomorrow and work on slowly raising it. Based on your replies, it seems that the streaks can be a result of stress caused by environment changes. At least that makes me feel better. What can I do as a help to relieve the stress of both fish? I have been salting the tank for the last week due to Oscar's injury and have already raised the salt content a tiny bit tonight. Any advice? Thanks again!
  18. Hello all! Before I even begin, I know that I have made a huge mistake but I am not sure how else I could have handled my situation. One of my good friends saw a fish at a LFS that she just knew I HAD to have, so she bought him for me. She showed up at my house with this really nice-looking red and white Ryukin and a nice "SURPRISE!" Of course, I was really excited, as this fish was just too cute and I have been look for a mate for Oscar for quite some time. I quickly began to panic, however, b/c I did not have a quarantine tank set up. She is not a fish-y person, so she had no idea that she was putting me, the new fish, AND my poor Oscar in a scary, possibly tragic situation. I should have taken the fish back to the store, but I made the hasty decision to acclimate him to Oscar's tank I looked the new fish over, named him SuperBad, and after acclimating him to the temp and params of Oscars tank, picked him up and plopped him in. He totally freaked out, of course, and sat on the bottom looking very frightened for about 10 minutes. Soon thereafter, he perked up and began to explore a bit. While watching him explore, I noticed that he has some red, veiny streaks on his tail fins. I am about to have a heart attack thinking that this fish is infected with some sort of horrible bacteria. So, my question is this: could the stress of the move and the acclimation process have caused this streaking? I did not noticed the streaks before I moved him to Oscar's tank. Test Results for the Following: Ammonia Level: Broke one of my test tubes a month ago--have not replaced it--will do so tomorrow. Nitrite Level: 0 Nitrate level: between 0 and 20 Ph Level, (If possible,KH and GH and chloramines): pH=6.6, KH=40, GH=30 Ph Level out of the Tap: 6.6 Tank size (How many Gals) and How long has it been running: 20gal High, running for almost exactly 1 year What is the name and size of the filter/s: Aquaclear 50 How often do you change the water and how much: 15% water changes twice each week How many fish in the tank and their size: Oscar (Fantail Goldfish)=2 inches, SuperBad (Ryukin)=3-4 inches What kind of water additives or conditioners: AmquelPlus, NovAqua, Aquariam salt (approximately 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons) Any medications added to the tank?: Have been treating Oscar with Melafix for 2 days because of an abrasion caused by a since removed aquarium decoration. Add any new fish to the tank: Unfortunately, YES! And now I am regretting it. What do you feed your fish: Brine Shrimp, Blood Worms, Krill, Algae Flakes, Flake Food, the occasional pea. Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt", bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus: Bloody streaks on SuperBad's tail fins; Oscar looks beautiful (as usual) Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.: Both boys seem to be acting perfectly normally now. At first, SuperBad sat on the bottom making frightened eyes at me. If these symptoms are pointing more toward an illness, what steps should I take at this point to save both of my boys?
  19. Yes, actually, I am having finrot issues. I am very familiar with finrot, as I keep bettas and have for years. I am almost 100% positive that my finrot is related to: 1) water quality issues, as my tank is cycling and my pH has become problematic (steady 6.5) since my water has become super, super soft (still trying to figure out why); 2)my fish, Oscar (2-3 inch Faintail), came to me with what seemed to be an injured Caudal fin, which has since become thinner and thinner (the other side seems to be okay), pointing toward the poor water quality taking advantage of the weakened state of Oscars fin and immune system. Of course, since Oscar is stressed right now (from the move, the injury, and water quality issues, which I am working to resolve at the moment), there is a much greater chance that a bacterial infection has taken root. I am feeding Medi-Gold as both a precaution AND a treatment of a possible infection. I am working really hard to keep him absolutely as healthy as I can during the cycling process. I plan on raising the water temp. by adding a heater tonight and have already begun bringing the water to an ideal salt treatment solution (.3). I am hoping that the Medi-Gold will help in the healing of Oscar's fis. Also, I plan to use Melafix as soon as I notice some signs of healing (I love that stuff--it is a dream when you are keeping bettas!) Any other success stories?
  20. Has anyone been successful in treating finrot with Medi-Gold. As a great portion of finrot cases are related to bacterial infections, it seems likely that it would do a good job of defeating it. Of course, theoretical success does not guarantee success in the real world. Any thoughts/experiences?
  21. I could see a pellet of food in his mouth... About 20 minutes later, he seemed to be finished with it. He went for the other piece and did the exact same thing again. I think they are just too big for him--he is only about 2.5". I plan to soak the pellets for a few minutes next time. How often do you all feed Medi-Gold? I planned to feed it once a day, but I am now wondering if twice is what is prescribed.
  22. Well, I just fed two Medi-Gold pellets without soaking them. Oscar grabbed one out of my fingers and sucked it down. Ever since he ate it, he has been floating near the bottom of the tank in the same place yawning and sucking in water. He has been doing it for at least 10-15 minutes, probably more--just twitching and gasping at the water. I am so worried that the food has caused or is going to cause a blockage! Has anyone else ever noticed their fish doing this after eating. I am so accustomed to bettas--they audibly crunch their pellets and do not tend to use the water as a means of clearing their gills. Oscar has me so worried. Should I do something?
  23. Devs, that is exactly my logic. I don't feel right not soaking the pellets but soaking them will not make me feel any better, as there must be some chance of the medicine becoming less potent through its disolving in the water. Anyone else have any ideas? Experience? Should I simply ask Rick? Thanks!
  24. Should Medi-Gold be soaked before feeding? If so, for how long? Also, should it be fed just like any other food?
  25. Hello all! I have had a bit of experience with constipated fish over the years. In most cases, simply not feeding for a matter of 2 or 3 days has done the trick to get the fish's system back in order. My poor Goldfish (whose name has been changed from Ace to Oscar) has been constipated ever since I got him (over two weeks ago). I am really starting to get concerned. I know it is constipation, as the only symptom is long, thin, white to clear colored poop with air bubbles in it. When I first noticed the poop (two days after I got brought Oscar home), I didn't feed for three days, then fed nothing but peas for four days. After the first round of peas, I didn't notice anymore signs of constipation, so I began feeding normally for a few days (once a day--frozen brine shrimp and/or frozen bloodworms--I plan to add an algea wafer or two once a week and I am researching Goldfish flakes/pellets, as I know Goldfish have a higher carbohydrate need than tropicals). After feeding normally for only 3 days, I noticed that Oscar's pooped indicated constipation again. So, this is day number 2 of round 2 of no food. From several posts on this board, it seems fairly normal that constipation takes a bit of time to get over, but it seems to me that more than 14 days is a very long time--too long. Has anyone else ever experienced a sonstipation problem like this? Thanks for your help!
×
×
  • Create New...