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Posts posted by 2601angela

  1. Now this is where the experts agree on - in the context of the Goldie - they maintain that a 100% change per day is not only not detrimental - bt only beniofits - in my case all tanks are changed 50% during the day - 50% during the nighht

    Note something as a misnomer here - by my changing 50% in the morning - the 50% change is not a real %50 change in the evening - Why - becauise part of the water beiong changed in the evening comes from the fresh water in the morning - so the actual total is around 75% - even thouigh I do 50% and 50% to supposedly equal 100%

    So if someone is changing 30% a day - you are actually changing partly fresh water from the prior 30 % so you r actual change may be comming out to only 25%.

    If you took a tank and changed it 100% per day at one time - you will find the readings at better levels than doing a 50% and 50% by the end of the day - I have to break it up because of time - that is why 50% 50%.

    So partial changes come out to a percentage of the "partial figure" not actually 30% is being changed when you are changing 30%.

  2. I was using 7.2 for a couple of reasons - City water can vary dramatically - if the average is 7.2 then you will not be fighting it constantly.

    7.2 has been considered a point where the exchange of ions across the gill membrane begins to become inhibited. This can also be complicated by the mere quality level of the water and its maintaince - In fact - it was shown that certain toxins actually speed up the process in the crossover on the membrane - leading to stress, disease and death. buffering and other factors aside - these determininations have been pretty consistant.

    Do not forget the exponential change for each .1 of pH drop that you incurr. Studies from research at 7.0 a stress factor begins to rise which may lead to a hiogher probability of ICK, dropsey, and fin rot - the Immunological response sustem is said to drop off dramatically below 7.0.

    It is not to say a fish cannot survive in the situations below the 7.2 - and as said people have been able to maintain goldies at 6.0 - which is rather shocking to me - as I have seen pooh change color comming out of a goldie at 6.0 -

    But the point is what stress level are you willing to submit your pet to in order to maintain the fish in those conditions - or would it simply be better to find a tropical fish that seems to handle much happier, in the lower range that you may be experiencing, and in less stress conditions for which a 6.5 or 6.0 may provide that that other type of fish.

    The same goes for - what they deem - the high side - in that general information indicates 8.2 before signifigant stress and fighting for ion exchange and O2 uptake - causing other openings for problems down the road.

    The idea is not that - you may be able to "acclimate" the fish - but at what point do you say it is more for your own personal gratification than the actual health of the fish - Acclimation and tollerance of "outside the range" environmental factors cannot be simply expressed toi you by a whimper or a bark - let alone dictation - and often the harm - when realized visually -- is to late - and both pet owner and pet suffer - in the end the pet much more.

  3. LOL - I had a friend one agfternoon frantically call me to say that his fish was "floating in a mezmerized state" and he feared toxicity problem - Well he was changing the 55 gallon tank 100 percent daily and it was theone of only 2 fish in the tank - after I got him calmed down and a nitro tablet in him and asprin for a precieved heart attack - we went over the idea of fish sleeping - he never knew it and said " why do they need sleep - they do nothing all day but beg me for food and attention - and sit on a park bench and look out at the world all day" LOL

  4. It would not hurt to take this path - a frontal assult to clear up any growing problem quickly efficiently and safetly.

    Whoever recommended the Jungle dry feed products was right on que - in earlier topics . One problem with them is the taste to fish - the best way to activate those products in the method I describe below - and you can use both proiducts at the same time - the antiparasidic and antibacterial and they are widely available in pet stores - keep it rtefrigirated - as well - if you get the gel - tec Ampicillin - and add it to the mush described you will go a long way for helping your fish and making it taste great to them - and they will do less sorting and spitting out of fragments of the Jungle productys...........

    The Geltec product has a additive in it that modifies their hunger - and increases their appetite - it is a great stick - um product - Oh - yes The Stability product I have recommended over and over.....

    Take what you normally feed in the morning and split it in half; to feed the other half in the early evening. It has been determined, by many experts, that straight dry food pellets is a simple NONONONONO?? especially with Goldies. They get impacted with dry food because of their weird genetically designed bodies.

    Try this; get a little screw down pill crusher ? about $1.00. Take the amount of food that you would feed in the morning ? for example ? I combine three types ? never the same any one feeding (a placebo affect in my thinking it would be boring for me so why not for them ? and have found different responses to eating depending on the variety). For example Omega has a marine food with garlic and lots of omega-3, a veggie round by omega for bottom feeders, and Hikaris Bio Gold. Grind away ? takes but a few seconds. This way you are not restricted to the few sinking types out there ? the food world is yours for the asking. I had to buy a small refrig to hold mine when my other half threatened he with living in the dog house with the fish if the fish products did not leave the family refrigerator. (refrigerate your products for freshness , etc ? ).

    Now; take a few cooked peas unshelled. The moisture of the peas will help bind the stuff. I take a minute to mush and mush until the pea particles are fairly small. If I need any additional moisture I add a drop or 2 of Viti-Chem and or the geltec ampicillin the Vitachem is an amino acid supplement ? great stuff, safe, and cheap ? and goes a long way. You could also use Garlic oil while adding a little flaxseed meal. You will find the consistency that is right for you. Make little torpedoes of the mush. Torpedoes seem to be ?sucked ? up easier. As well; some goldies tend to take balls of mush and actually work them around in their mouths until the ball cannot be broken up and they will spit it out in an hour or so. add your ground up Jungle antibacterial - dont worry - it is relativelyt safe and effective product if you use it to a 10 day max period or so....

    The consistency should be enough to hold under water but soft enough for them to palletize. It is easy to tell . Do not save the rest. ? discard the remaining and make fresh at the next feeding. This can become a real family thing to do. I make a game of it with the kids. If you drop one or tow ? do not worry about it ? your little aguapuppy vacuum cleaners will find the scraps I assure you. Like dogs ? they never leave a dirty plate. And do not think they do not know where that one morsel went to in the dark deep.

    In fact: I tested a ?torpedo.? I placed it under several rather large stones ? within 3 minutes ? not only did they ?smell? the presence ? the little suckers burrowed down into the stones and sucked up every particle.

    Remember now ? you have ground this stuff up. The amount you feed them of the little torpedoes is more concentrated in food than just feeding granules. Small amounts are not necessarily small. By grinding you allow easy digestion and faster breakdown of particles ? by exponentially increasing the surface area of each particle to the digestion process and becoming accessible. Therefore ? you tend to generate less waste of unused product going thru their system and coming out the other end. Also the mush additive of the Peas is great. The mushing allows any future additives of antibacterial or antiparasidic granules without altering your feeding habits ? it is harder for them to separate the medicine from the food ? and they will do this like a dog does with a pill in a piece of hamburger. I guarantee you.

    While in the "treatment period" try to stay with low fat fish food product 8% or less if possible- if possible use some Hikari Bio-Gold or the marine formula Omega peleted product - with Veggie rounds ground with Daphnia - mushed together with the pea. Include ground predetermined amounts of antiparasidic and antibacterial foods such as what Jungle has - split up in the feedings. - grind it well - Goldies will seperate it out. You can use them together - however going beyond the 7-10 day period with medication is a chance of killing good bacteria as well - So do not over - do a good thing - I have seen this occur on overtreated fish.

    Again - smaller amounts of food is more important than large

    Once during the day or the evening give a very small sliver of canteloupe or bannana as a treat - low in fat - great for available vitimans like vitiman C-no they are not going to die on a low fat diet -

  5. Two things - and say I am crazy -

    first I assume that you are not using charcoal in your filtering medium -

    two - 6 years ago - there was a case in Florida where they were using the same River stone for all their fish - when they started Goldies they just kept dying - we investigated - they found that the riverstone they were using was breaking down into certain sulphur and calcium soluble products in the water - since they were not testing for these directly - other than a slight hardness change because of the Calcium they saw no concern. - It was over running the Goldies ability to acclimate and binding soluble minerals and amino acids from the water - similar to what High or very low pH levels tend to do - as you know the Chichlid and Discus do not share the same parameters as the Goldies in weater management.

    Anyway they solved the issue - in their case - by replacing the bottom media....

  6. Someone loves their 250 gallon tank - but has a problem on this forum. It has a crack at the bottom - what to do - They are using a rubber bladder currently

    here are 2 Ideas that may bring enjoyment back to your tank without the plastic bladder ruining the view. The second method is way less complicated and would probably resolve your crack problem.

    One method: Take a piece of black plastic - larger than the bottom of the tank - and place it underneath - drill a hole thru the plastic and the wood base. Seal the plastic between the exposed area of the plastic hole and the wood base by taking regular aquarium sealant and placing some around the hole under the plastic. The hole can be a quarter to a half inch - enough size to over-ride water tension yet allowing a cork stopper to fit the underside of the hole in the wood. Allow the sealant to dry.

    Next - there are two ways to do this - you can cut a piece of clear plastic longer than the size of the crack and slightly wider - 2 pieces. take regular aquarium sealant and place on each piece on one side - sandwiching the glass in between - let it dry for at least 48 hours as water is over 7.5 lbs per gallon.

    Place the tank back on top of the plastic. with the aquarium sealant lift the tank edge and cover the entire edge all the way around the tank and allow it to seat on the plastic - smooth the excess sealant out. Fill your tank with water. The tank should not leak at all. In fact I know people who cut sheet window plastic - place the sealant on one side of the sheet - and place it in the inside bottom of the tank pressing the plastic down to allow the plastic sheet to seal - allow tyhis 3-4 days drying time. Thius way you can disguard the plastic bottom idea and so -on.

    The plug in the hole lets you monitor the bottom of your tank to see if there is ever any future cracking (if you do not put in the plastic sheet there may be more stress cracks on the way. As well if another crack occurs - the sealed edges of the plastic and the cork stops the future outflow into the room.

    Second temp method : DRSFOSTERSMITH.com has an aquarium sealant that does not affect the fish but dries under water - . take a piece of window plastic cut to cover the plastic - on one side place the sealant and place on the inside bottom of the tank - overtop of the crack. it will dry underwater, will stop tyhe leak, and will not harm the fish - you can remove the bladder.

    All people with glass bottom tanks should seal the edge of their tank bottom with aquarium sealant - to whatever solid top you have it sitting on - You do not have to lift the tank - just seal around the edge like you would do with glass to glass. this could sabve the life of your fish and give you time to remedy a bottom crack.

  7. there are those that mistake sleeping at the bottom for an ailment - Punch likeds to be in the middle looking out - Thurston - as I said - likes the bottom. Test your temperatures in those areas. I do not know the dumb cluck that decided to make most tanks as glass bottoms - there are some reasons for it - but it is amazing. I seem to find the tanks where I have placed no seated plastic seal - where it develops an air pocket betweeen the glass and the plastic (I use it for protection in the event of a crack) The fish tend to sleep at the bottom more - I believe this indicates warmer temps - or in some cases cooler temps - the ones with a buffer between the glass and the plastic do not seem to sleep at the bottom but rather in the center of the tank. Tanks with mystery snails, if they have lived with them - I find the fish stay away from sleeping on the bottom - snails tend to sneak up on a goldie when asleep - better lookout - like a meerkat occurs from floating away from the bottom and not be bumped or checked out by a pesky snail looking for nibbles.

  8. In a constipation situation situation - a pea or so is the right course but not the hit to make a home run - with Goldies - if they get constipation a little of a good thing - such as peas - as they are a dieretic is only a half. Goldies can die from constipation - When you give them a pea - place between the two halves 3 or 4 crystals of Epson Salts - trust me it will not hurt them - one of the peas in the morning and one at night - make suire the Epson salt crystals are in a little crevase within the half so that they do not get pushed out when you place the two halves together - feed a couple of other peas during the first two days and nothing more. You will see the "pushout - probably quite long. I am sometimes amazed at people who have constipation problems and how long their intestinalk track really is. It takes Epson Salts about 24 Hours to work so let them be alone in the tank to twitch and sit low in the tank till things "work out" so to speak. Using peas is a good idea - but the problem needs to be eradicated quickly before the succomb to the problem.

    Patience - Epson salt will not harm them - even if you are at higher doses nbut they are not - usually necessary - Large crystals or amall mixed - do not fret on the size at this low treatment level -

  9. UUUUHHHH WHAT? Shamu - sis you say you were trying the Seachem Stability product ? Did this come from one of my new topics or just by chance - Hurray - someone has found a truly good product to work with - but just to set it on course - your cycling - if you are using the product properly and to directions - is already cycled - remove the fear and the hesitation as a result of past learning and teachiong - keep up with the water changes - replace the seachem product that is lost in the water change - make sure that you have Boi media in your filtering system for the Stability product to work - if this is what you have do not wait you have graduated past the dredges of cycling - 7 tanks later I can attest to that.... Good show Shamu

  10. LOL I feel like a rabbit running around a tree LOL

    Goldies will acclimate on their own to the parameters between 7.2 to 8.0 after being introduced properly to a tank even changes they will acclimate on their own - there is no way to adjust the goldies to the water - with our intervention - once you have introduced them - LOL unless you know of some little pHvalve we can turn on them to adjust their acclimation

  11. that is why I stated anything below or at 7.2 - that is a general demarcation line for goldie pH - I sure there are other views - but research seems to indicate that is where undue stress occure - concerning your comment to "adjust" for goldies there is no real need to adjust if it is within the ranges I have suggested. unless the water you are adding is really a lot different than what is in the tank - there is no need to adjust. Again this is why I stated the idea of a high school chemistry lab. E`verything you are doing to the tank in the foirm of tank additives - is not necessarily helpful to the fish. By obtaining a fish that is more inclined to the water that you have comming from the tap - there is no need to then "adjust" ....

    If Tobacco grows in nice warm climate like Georgia and thrives well there - Why try and build a glass Igloo in northern Canada to grow it there ?? Instead of the tobacco - think about raising Carabou - If a pet is going to stay outside - would you ger a german shorthair - or would you get a husky or something more adaptable...anotherwards do not try and fight the natural aspects of what you have.... work with the conditions you have to raise a form of aquapuppy loving your water characteriatcs.

    To many times - I read here adding this or adding more of that - continually adjust, adjust - lets try to get out of that chemical need to think we should make the artificial need to satisfy - like we tend to do with heat or air conditioning - in our case we do not have a choice - but we do for our pets.....

    Stop - Think - then Act do not wait to react - avoid the extra trauma befoire both you and the fish experience trauma

  12. This is part of a reply to a new fish owner - most of the time the process new owners use is in the reverse mode - reacting to the problems rather than avioding the problems to save money and time....

    Before getting or choosing the type of fish you want test your water from the source first - if your pH is below 7.2 after 3 or 4 tests during a 2 week period - You may wish to consider something other than a Goldie - especially if you are that close on the line and theere may be days it would dip .2 or .4 ...............

    instead of chemically fighting the pH to bring it up - consider fish that acclimate well in lower pH water - this will save you a great amount of chemistry time. Vice versa for anything say - over 8.0 Many people do not consider this is a first to do list item before deciding what fish you want. Your fish will be very happy not being a high school Chem experiment.

  13. Sally:

    before you get the fish please read my topic "Clear Or Pooh-brown Tap Water - You Choose"

    As well - before getting or choosing the type of fish you want test your water from the source first - if your pH is below 7.2 after 3 or 4 tests during a 2 week period - instead of chemically fighting the pH to bring it up - consider fish that acclimate well in lower pH water - this will save you a great amount of chemistry time. Many people do not consider this is a first to do list item before deciding what fish you want. Your fish will be very happy not being a high school Chem experiment.

  14. BTW - read my topic on feeding - try getting away from the tablets and dry food - In the mush I have been describing as a way to feed in the past - Hikari has a great power Daphnia that goldies love...grind the spirulina - they will be happier for it.

  15. Just because she is a she - Jaws - not so bad - does she have masculine characteristics or bitten any other fish lately - of course she may feel disenchanted with the name like the the song by Johnny Cash - the boy named Sue...LOL

    Thurston is one of my Orandas - he is rather intelligent ---

    Lovie - one of my Pearlscale - is quite dainty - preferring not to pick at algae - eating small morsels before engorging herself with food (unlike Thurston) and always teasing Thurston with a wiff of the tail over his forehead - just when he becomes tired and has just finished his typical breeding follow the leader underneath routine

    - sort of like an Old movie where the famous actress trails her scarf over the shoulder and neck of Humphrey Bogart as an inticement to come inside out of the chill for some fun.

    In the case of these two - for you Gilligan's Island fans - they were named after Thurston Howell III and his wife Lovie - the millionare couple

  16. Just to make you smile.....

    see if she is always picking the same corner - Tanks get "dead spots - " for water quality and temperature - In my case I know the front center of my curved 125 acrylic has a warmer spot thru temperature testing -

    Thurston will locate himself right at that spot each night, facing out to survey is people domain - it sometimes seems - this is the fish that refucses to accept a fully curtained night tank - he starts to splash and shoot out water unless the tank is only half curtained

    Lovie - my Pearlscale - prefers to continue the slow waggle to maintain herself in a perpertual flow of current of a bubble-Ball in one of the corners that is left on 24 hours for aggitation (CO2 level offset aggitation for large amounts of plants - especially for night) She has the opportunity to go anywhere - but unlike Thurston - she just likes waggleing all night long in the current - neat to see her in the blue moonlighting....

    In the case of these two - for you Gilligan's Island fans - they were named after Thurston Howell III and his wife Lovie - the millionare couple

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