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in Goldfish Discussion
Posted October 27, 2007
yes without a doubt
Just a heads up -
Midwest Pomd and Koi society has a behind the scenes tour at Shedd in Chicago Nov 10th forinfo:
in Equipment and Water Care
All of my tanks have one wet dry filtration system with Bio media and one canister 3 tray for chemical - As far as the activated carbon is concerned- Get into the habit of making the first in the morning smell test - my nose is my test strip. Activated carbon takes away soluble organics that can quickly convert to toxins - and it removes many types of odorus npon lethal junk. As wellit has a unique form of absorption for trace type toxins. I would not cut it out entirely.
It has proven itself time and again to be an asset to the tank. However - two things - When vertain chemicals are used and you are told, not just advised to take out the carbon - do so. Some chemicals activity will pass into the carbon and nudge out the bad stuff caught by the carbon and will place various toxins back into the water like a claim jumper.
You will probably see High density carbon in some stores- it is not worth it - it is definately less messy and cleans much faster, but lb for lb - the pourisity and absorption of the high density is half that of the activated material. - so essentially you are using twice as much to do the same job as activated.
Posted October 26, 2007
I have two backuppower supplies ; At a power outage - I can stop all feeding and allow the temp of the room to decrease - during winter and fall - to slow their metabolism- on 8 tanks - you can slide by with ammonia neutralizer (in that water in my case my condo - cannot reach my fkloor during outage) and alike - but you cannot go without air flow - If power shuts down the backups are set to power the air only. I have tested the backup time and they have been able to support the air only situation, on the 8 tanks, for three days.
Also; in DRSFOSTERSMITH they have an autocharge airpumps that maintain a backup charge untill called upon - the pump reverts to pulling from the min. backup batteries until it runs out or power is restored. vvvv has the stupidist backup I have ever seen. their backup maintains a charge but is off when the poower is on. This makes absolutely nosense to me - Why would you want a dead airline and fizzer sitting in the tank waiting to be used and collecting algae.
Drs foster gives you the choice to have run normally until backup is required - these typoe are great for travel because you just plug into the current of the vehicle or let them run on battery -
Do you know that it is equivalent to what we term a felony - in Italy - with jail sentence - if you put your goldie in a fish bowl? Simply saying how severe iut really is - you may think he is ok -0 just keep changing that water - You threw me a curve ball - did you really mean he is 12 inches????
They can tell time; I have videotaped early morning wakeup call of two of mine- - under blue artificial moonlight - The digital clock - on 27 filming sequences - showed that both the male and the famale would move out of there selected evening nesting areas within 3 minutes on each filming - We black clothed the windows so that they did not have light to go by.
As far as knowing people - Punch - I swear - Knows the difference between The both of us - when my partner walks by the tank Punch has been known to shoot a lugie of water up top 12 inches and hit my partner while passing by - I have walked by a number of times and no LUGIE... I am the primary feeder so it goes to show they know where their "bred is buttered"! LOL
LOL Daryl - be careful - my head will not get out the double door - Your statement is right on "Q" - about water being Prestine - but -0 ya know - I wish that you and I could convince others that thw water should be kept Prestine for the currently healthy fish - I thought my topic on brown tap water would take hold - but alas - I fear you and I will continue to see disease and mortality - of which most cases are directly due to simply poor quality water - and by then - as you agree - it is to late....
Well as a one time partner - opwner of an aquatics store ( so much for agreements where he was supposed to handle the actual hands on wortk while I stayed with FMC) - it was used in liquid form - yes away from all fish concerned - actually dumped into the wet / dry aggitator - for all incomming shipments while in the quarantine tank - the use of HP we observed, definately without a doubt - a large drop in shipment mortality and disease breakouts as well as a signifigant reduction in the after shipment body discoloration that was aparant in some breeds. The rates that I indicated are signifigantly lower than the standard rates used in shipping and receiving - That is why I suggested those rates - Yes there is a level at which HP will cause mortality - but those rates are nothing near that level. Also make sure the HP is USP - for maintaining quality standard and prurity.
You would be well advised to go to this link
It could take up to a couple of weeks - it all depends on what induced the stress - or what combination of factors, and for how long they were present to possibly give some form of physical harm (like ammonia burning of gills at high levels - that never really fully heals).
I'm going to pass on the bag problems you cited because that was covered in a recent topic. But I would suggest - when introducing new fish - to get a pint of Hydrogen Peroxide USP - and put in a capful per 5 gallons - that is on the low side but I find, even that - helps them recover faster from transport problems. The Fear of stress is not always when are they going to recover - but how stressed were they to induce an immunological breakdown and allow something like ICH to take advantage of the weakened state - I truly believe that is is the part I would be wary and watchful over -
LOL Daryl - Well we may as well prepare them for their future trials. emotional rollercoasters, and tribulations associated with these little evil creatures that are dressed to look cute to throw us off the track....preparing them for future entabglements that they are bound to face with Goldies - It is just a good way to acclimate them - like acclimating fish LOL////
Do you mean to tell me that your fish has not been taught to respond to his or her name? It is obvious you have mundane fish LOL/
Ichthyophthirius multifiliis is a ciliated protozoan which causes "Ich" or "white spot disease." Many times I see people with this disease problem May I strongly suggest that you link to the following article - very concise and factual...
in DIY and Tips
I still hear many preople struggling with dumping 5 gallon buckets of water into the tanks -
A friend of mine has just started a business called; CleanChange. It is producing a product that has a 5 gallon bucket with a spillproof cover, an underwater pump at the bottom of the bucket -, a gate valve on the input line and the out put to put flow as slow as you wish to go, and a "jetison Hook" - basically an elbow at the end of the output hose that allows you to securely hang the output anywhere. It will push up to 12 feet vertically if needed and is capable of being adjusted to a small stream. it is totally silent. It is great for those people straining with the bucket method or grapple with hood lights not condusive to the pouring needs and space for water to pass between.
I find it is great for mixing the water the night before - pull off - say 5 gallons in the morning- and plug the thing in - and go eat breakfast..LOL it is so basically simple yet seems to be selling.
Warzone - a blue artificial moon light - one of the little ones - seems to eliminate that problem for us.
Punch does not always do it as well- he will go a week or so before doing it again. I suspect it is partly related to the fluxuation - in my case - of water temperature I impose on them this time of the year. Be aware it may come back.... -
Posted October 25, 2007
Daryl made a point that - to often - is ignored - and results in severe stress of the fish - Maintaining a consistant pH is of the utmost importance - meaning if your tank is 7.4 and the water you are adding is 8.2 some preadjustment is necessary or feed it in with a tube the size of a sparrows windpipe LOL - Chicago water changes from 7.0 to 8.4 in a week. The only test that I do daily is the tank water and adding water pH. You will see you rpetstores keeping a record - daily - of the pH of their water supply. Oh - and just because the pet store is right next door does not mean their pH is the same as yours - We had this problem in NYC.
I do not know where you read that - but that is not necessarily so - in fact - if there is a - say - ammonia spike - as the cycle breaks it down in removing the ammonia - depending on what stage the cycle is in the spike - the pH may actually go up first before declining - many other factors affect pH - or a synergistic combination of factors - Ammonia is only part of the affect on pH.
This was in my topic - before choosing the fish - but it may serve well here - information from Natural History Museum and Shed Aquarium -
I was using 7.2 for a couple of reasons - City water can vary dramatically - if the average is 7.2 then you will not be fighting it constantly.
7.2 has been considered a point where the exchange of ions across the gill membrane begins to become inhibited. This can also be complicated by the mere quality level of the water and its maintaince - In fact - it was shown that certain toxins actually speed up the process in the crossover on the membrane - leading to stress, disease and death. buffering and other factors aside - these determininations have been pretty consistant.
Do not forget the exponential change for each .1 of pH drop that you incurr. Studies from research at 7.0 a stress factor begins to rise which may lead to a hiogher probability of ICK, dropsey, and fin rot - the Immunological response sustem is said to drop off dramatically below 7.0.
It is not to say a fish cannot survive in the situations below the 7.2 - and as said people have been able to maintain goldies at 6.0 - which is rather shocking to me - as I have seen pooh change color comming out of a goldie at 6.0 -
But the point is what stress level are you willing to submit your pet to in order to maintain the fish in those conditions - or would it simply be better to find a tropical fish that seems to handle much happier, in the lower range that you may be experiencing, and in less stress conditions for which a 6.5 or 6.0 may provide that that other type of fish.
The same goes for - what they deem - the high side - in that general information indicates 8.2 before signifigant stress and fighting for ion exchange and O2 uptake - causing other openings for problems down the road.
The idea is not that - you may be able to "acclimate" the fish - but at what point do you say it is more for your own personal gratification than the actual health of the fish - Acclimation and tollerance of "outside the range" environmental factors cannot be simply expressed toi you by a whimper or a bark - let alone dictation - and often the harm - when realized visually -- is to late - and both pet owner and pet suffer - in the end the pet much more.
The "going tro do about it" is exactly why I put the topic up - I suggested to think twice and understand there will be more work in keeping a goldie in the 8.5 range - and they should look at and assess those aditional processes and needs before just running out and getting a Goldie - - Or another kind that flourishes on 8.5... If they understand and determine that the extra work is ok for them - then great - It merely allows the opportunity of thinking twice before heading into the trouble zone not knowing anything about the pH characteristics of their tap water.
In fact they do - part of the article I placed in "intelligence " topic about a week ago should prove interesting to you
Grain - just a note - unless u use extremely fine grain bottom media - there is very little cycleing benifit to the tank - that is why it is imperitive to have a portion of your canister with bio media - it is like public housing to the bacteria - even lava syone gives very little benifit it is found.
Iyt is especial;ly important to have bio media in the filtration system if you have a bare bottom tank
DRSfostersmith has the pH electrode for about $59 dollars - they have gone up about 10.00$ since I purchased them - the testing reagent is a small added cost and lasts a long time - believe me it is worth the cost - every day I thank someone that I do not need strips or liquid - at christmas they have inventory sales that may bring them down another 10.00$.
Get one - you willk save money and headaches in the long run....
SusanH - when you do an introduction to a tank - add a capful1 - pint bottle cap- of USP Hydrogen Peroxide per five gallons of tank water - when you are doing an introduction to the tank - The amount I recommend is well berlow the potential danger level - of the overuse of HP _ so have no fear of it at these levels. this is something many shippers will do when they receive fish - it will tone down the strress condition and will help them acclimate to the pH and buffer differential - helping O2 uptake....
Try the canteloupe and bannana that I have suggested in the past - you will be amazed at their reaction -