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Everything posted by 2601angela

  1. Agreed - the moment the book is published - there is something new to be learned that is not in the book
  2. Enjoy the comedy routine - I have had that as well - I provided a water jet and that just excentuated the fun- they discovered bubbles!! Let them pick at the pre filter - that is their after snackplace
  3. I not only get splashed but spit at in unison. God forbid I give them something different that they do not care for!!!!
  4. As we spoke before; be aware; as certain coppers, etc are able to infultrate the aquarium sealant and thus make the tank unusuable for certain types of living things - your posion may have impregnated into the the aquarium sealant in the tank. As well certain bottom media that is porus or absorbant. Sorry to hear of your problem....You can peel out the old sealant and replace it with new. It is not difficult. As well certain toxins will impregnate neoprene hose used on filters and alike.
  5. Are they like that since the moment you get them; or do they become bottom sitters over time??
  6. No it has no effect on live plants -
  7. P.S. Daryl - I was not questioning your accurate info; IN my background - I do trhe double take - thank you for your correction on the Flukers with the Dimilin - As for the Prazi - right on as a top notch product....with the Praz1 1/2 gram treats 50 gallon with a wide margin of safety.
  8. Yes; I do a once a year treatment for flukes: There is no chance of resistance development with this double-eged treatment. I use Prazi ( Praziquantel ). In fact it is recommended as a once a year preventative. ( pratz-eh-KWON-tel ) Praziquantel ( ?Prazi? ) is a great treatment for flukes. gentle effective . The real bonus with ?Prazi? is that when you treat for flukes it also rids the fish of any internal parasites or worms. One treatment, not two - No water changes needed - Safe for all species of non food fish including Orfe, Goldfish and Rudd. No filter or reef bio-filter effects - Deworms cestodes, anasakis, capillaria and other intestinal parasites as well! Prazi? is extremely effective for treatment of external flukes, liver flukes, internal parasites and internal worms in koi, goldfish and tropical fish. No water changes after treatment and you do NOT need to bypass your biofilter. Prazi is not water temperature dependant. Prazi is safe with all species of fish. It is also 100% ?legal? unlike some of the grey market compounds. Daryl was correct in maintaining that Dimilin is not effective against Flukes. The studies suggest it's effectivity not in line for registration. However; I do a double treatment at one time once a year, with Prazi and Dimilin - it is not the *only* weapon against crustacea (Anchor Worm and Fish Lice) anymore; as far as I know. There are now sister compounds. For all cases - the members of this family - safety and effectivity is unparalled. Dimilin is effective, yes. But hard to get. API is comming out with the product; API's Dimilin. Anchors Away eliminates Argulus (fish lice) and Lernea (anchor worm)within a week at coldwater temperatures, and much faster when water temperatures are in the seventies. just about all the IDI's will stop thedevelopment of crustacean parasites in Koi and Goldfish. Diflubenzuron (Anchor's Away) is an easy to measure powder. It's an insect development inhibitor and chitin synthesis inhibitor. At the same time, Overdosage is patently impossible. No reapplication is usually needed. This is not a shot gun attempt. The problem with these infections is that it is usually to late once you find out your aquapuppies have a problem...
  9. Well thank goodness someone else brought thios up- I was afraid to for fear of being committed. Punch, in his 28 gallon plays with them and sleeps near the tank floor with them next tohim - pushing thema away from his food, etc. never attacking them. They are so used to him they do not go in their shell when he is around. However ; in one ofthe 55's Thurston is totally different. I believe because the shells tend to develop algae particles. usually midnioghts clean each other off quite well. But as Thurston tests; he finds out that he likes the undermeat of the shell as well - and the head and so on - yes there are omnivores that are tilted at times to stake, not just settling for greens LOL - I discontinued snails in Thurston's tank. They are very happy settling in with punch. The Gary the snail utube video I put up supports that. Oh; and it makes no difference in their age or size -= thurston started killing snails at 1 inch long. Thank you for your admissionthat this problem does exist.- I attempted Treating the shell with a distastefull medication that would not affect the snail. I mixed it with "Biobandage" to give it some hold time. That worked; but then Thurston found the soft tissue of the head. That sucked.
  10. Nickie - I put up a toipic today titled "SB" as a response to , mainly , yyour currernt situation - it will enlighten you on these conditions and the thought process of the researchers.
  11. A week or so ago someone brought up the fact - there was a tiny worm with a larger head than body in her tank - I cannot refind the topic - so to respomd: Planaria are flatworms and members of the Platyhelminthes phylum. Planaria are often found in aquariums with uneaten food. The planaria won't hurt the fish, but they are a symptom of too much gravel containing too much uneaten food, and that is not good for fish. They require a food source, which means there must be excess food wastes in the tank to support them. If examined closely have eyespots as well as protrusions from the sides of their heads. Although they do not harm fish, they love to feast on eggs, and therefore are dangerous if breeding egglaying fish. A clean tank is the best defense against becoming overrun with Planaria. Free-living, non parasitic flatworms are common in lakes, streams, ponds, and other freshwater habitats. Planaria, usually dark brown, greenish, or tan, are found in shallow water underneath submerged rocks or vegetation. They can glide over the surface of objects and are sometimes upside-down on the underside of water surface film. The body of Planaria is non-segmented and bilaterally symmetrical. The head is triangular shaped and contains two eyespots that detect light. Worms can shorten and change shape using muscle cells whose contractions are controlled by a primitive nervous system. Asexual reproduction allows a new head and tail ends to form by a process of tissue regeneration. Sexual reproduction is also possible after worms exchange sperm; worms are hermaphroditic. After internal fertilization, numerous zygotes are deposited into a small, dark capsule, called a cocoon, which is about 1 mm in diameter. The cocoon is attached to submerged rocks or plants and, after further development, small worms emerge from an opening in the cocoon. There is no larval form. 1. Clean Your Aquarium. In particular you should clean your gravel with a Gravel Washer. 2. Add Aquarium Salt to your aquarium up to a maximum of 1 Tablespoon for each 5 gallons of water. 3. Don't Over React. Clean your gravel every day with the Gravel Washer. When you've removed 20% of the water, stop and top your aquarium back up with tap water. Repeat this procedure every day. 4. It may take several days of gravel washing to get your gravel really clean. When it is finally really clean, begin removing gravel, until it is at most 1/4" deep. If you have an under gravel filter you'll need some more advice. 5. Add Quick Cure. Each day after you clean your aquarium and wash the gravel, treat with quickcure. Repeat steps 1 to 5 listed above, until you don't see the worms any more. This procedure will take several days and require quite a bit of your elbow-grease, but it's the safest method for the rest of the fish in your aquarium. Reduce the amount you feed your fish, as well as the frequency of feedings.
  12. Since I made my recent comment here and claims associating some to temperature I went to http://www.mu.edu/~buxtoni/puregold/diseas...om.htm#LETHARGY and found some recent informatioon following the same lines of observation ands realization in the effects of tempreatrure. I copied someof thae article as follows; FLOATING PROBLEMS, SWIM BLADDER DISEASE NEW THINKING ON FLOATING Floating problems are complex. If it occurs only after feeding, see below. Females full of eggs can have balance problems. Dropping a fish can result in swim bladder damage. Toxins can cause swim bladder problems. Cranial kidney and floating It can also be due to problems with regulation of the air bladder. This organ can be damaged by medications and treatments before you even bought your fish. One is "tranquilizers" put into the water when fish are shipped. The damage does not show up right away. The primary cause of floating is feeding food that floats and/or too much food at one time. Soak the food and squeeze the air out so the food sinks. Best is to get high quality sinking food. Or, feed foods that sink, like grapenuts, rice, veggies, oatmeal. If feeding is only done once a day, feed at night, and all they can eat for 5 minutes. If twice a day, all they can eat in 3 minutes. The other parameter here is temperature. Increasing the temp of the water seems to ease the floating problem. The activity of their digestive tract increases with increased temperature. However, increased oxygenation of the water must be done at the same time. For a fish that is already floating, check the belly (see the 3 point physical). IF the fish is fine according to the 3 point check, or if the fish is constipated: The minimalist approach is to not feed the fish for 3 days and if it stops floating, then resume feeding but soaked/sinking food with more veggies like peas. The more aggressive approach is to feed a pea with a crystal of epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) in it to the fish. Epsom salts is a purgative. Even more aggressive is to do a salt dip on the fish. This purges the fish out. Ammonia levels must be watched carefully. If this doesn't work, there is a procedure called the "Chinese Water" method. The fish is put into a tub and only enough water is added to just cover the back fin. The fish is not fed for 4 days. If the fish is upright, each day a little more water is added (the fish must be moved to fresh, aged water each day to move it away from ammonia accumulation). After 4 days, if the fish is upright in deeper water, then a couple peas can be fed. After that, gradually add a little more food. Another cause of damage is toxins in the water. One of the most common is hydrogen sulfide produced by anaerobic bacteria that live in areas with low oxygen, like the gravel in tanks. GF are bottom feeders and will turn gravel over looking for food. I have seen a GF turn over a piece of gravel and go into distress. Thought the GF had got the gravel caught in the mouth but gravel could not be seen. The fish displayed balance problems for quite a while. Chronic low levels of toxins with hydrogen sulfide can lead to persistent and finally permanent floating problems. This typically occurs when the gravel is cleaned by siphoning and the crud gets mixed in the water. The gas is released during siphoning. H2S toxicity should be suspected when a fish shows balance problems during or right after cleaning gravel. Increasing oxygenation of the tank helps the low oxygen problem somewhat. Getting rid of gravel in tanks prevents the problem entirely. Using potassium permanganate at 1/2 strength in the tank during cleaning can also prevent toxing with H2S. PP reacts instantly with H2S and organic compounds and turns from pink to yellow. OK.. here is the deal. Jo Ann and I been in discussion about floating and "swim bladder" disease. I have never been able to get past the fact that the explanation doesnt fit the observations. >The fish floats upside down. >The swim bladder is at the "top" of the fish under the back. >Necropsies of "floaters" show the swim bladder is full. I can see where a fish that cannot submerge, or cant get off the bottom may have a dysfunctional swim bladder, but it doesnt explain "upside down" I was reading in Stoskopf (p. 127) "Gas-forming enteritis can mimic disease of the swim bladder. In addition to the development of abnormal swimming postures, bulges from gas-filled bowel can cause the clinician to misidentify the bowel as the swim bladder. " Now THIS would explain a fish being upside down. The belly has a greater quantity of gas than the swim bladder and the fish flips over. IN addition, I have seen this "bulging" of sides of the fish and especially at the back of the fish leading to that "dumpy" look. The fish is often curved, as if muscles on one side are not operating (on the side that is bulging out) and the muscles of the side curved in seems to be permanently contracted. Most likely is that the gas so fills up one side that it pushes that side up and it is impossible for the fish to straighten out. Think of those of us who get "gas" and how contorted we can be trying to find a position to avoid the pain. In support of the pain theory, in those fish I have made little weighted jackets for, the fish seemed to be in discomfort at the bottom of the tank. Altho subtle in a tank, the pressure might also be painful. In fish with egg binding, the eggs are often infected, and this could lead to gas formation as well, also with the fish flipping over SUGGESTED NEW TREATMENT First try to determine if the fish has any parasites and treat for that. Then put the fish into a 10 or 20 gallon tank and just put in enough water to cover the fish. Use filtration!!! Ammonia MUST be carefully monitored and water changed if the filtration is not removing it. Whisper filters may need to have the "joints" sealed with silicone to keep the siphon working in lowered water .. even the basket on the bottom may need to be removed and a piece of aquarium foam tied on. Add 1 teaspoon of epsom salts to the water. Do not add more, even if some water needs to be changed. Do not add any regular salt. Lay and attach a heater along the corner where the sides and floor of the tank meets so that the fish CANNOT end up laying on it and frying their side. Crank the heat up to 84oF. Put an airstone in front so it will move the water up and away from the heater. Treat any surface sores with antibiotic creme, like Panalog (at the vets) or neosporin. Do not feed the fish for up to 4 days. Look for expelling of airy, bubbly poops and get them out of the tank. On the 4th day feed the fish 1/2 of normal rations of high protein (sinking, or soaked and squeezed) food for 4 days. After that, normal amounts of sinking food. The fish needs to be "walked" while in the tank. This involves placing your hand underneath the fish to get it upright and slowly moving it thru the water to get the fins moving. Do this as many times as possible during the day for about 3 minutes each time until the fish is swimming on its own. This could take up to 3 months if the fish has been floating for a long time.
  13. 1. If your are feeding food that is to high in protein you can cause unwanted impaction in their system - a perfect place for bacteria to party. 2. Remember; goldies are omnivoris - mixing spirulina with crushed veggie rounds with a couple of peas has better nutrition than a high protein diet. 3. I leave my tank room to the varying seasonal changes of temperature - this gets their natural cycle going, enhanses color etc. I actually turned off all heaters. About 4:00 am two tank alarms went off at 69 degrees. normally, with goldies - they handle freexing temperatures and acclimate very well to the changing weather. However - the alarms were in the tanks holding Calico's and Pearls - The fish with the bodies ahaped like a Martian Garlic fruit and has (due to that shape) as many problems trying to operate in a normal "fishlike manner" as does our clown infested Government. The only difference; my fiash do not have any choice in their effeciency in operation. For simplicity - lets call that group of fascinating oddfellow aquapuppies as the kids. Well as every year when I hit that temp 69-71 area - they find it almost impossible to stay upright.oLder persons, in this forum, may remember the first Trident class sub that lost depth control and imploded at crush depth. Her sister sub did an official real run of what information they gathered to stimulate the identical situation and, hopefully have thje problem surface - shall we say. Well the problem cropped up - and, lucky for the crew that they were at the highest point of readiness - for the problem forced an inverted drive - the crew was fast enough to blow the ballast. The problem; Air has - air and moisture. At deeper operating depths the areas housing pumping systems and the back and forth adustments of the ballast features fell into the 30's temp. The high speed tpressureized ransfer , in the process, was forcing moisture to be released from the grips of the compressed air - as it traveled thru specific regulators doing the adjustments - the regulators froze up and, basicaslly in less than 309 seconds the sub is uncontrollable and heads deeper as a result of no ballast transfer - now all the lines became frozen. Well the concept seems to affect my kids as well - especially in that they are cold blooded; tunlkike ours as we are like miniature nuclear reactors and produce energy - their system metabolism has a dramatic reaction to cooler temperatures. Their metabolism slows down. I believe that their wierd no room for anything in that little geanie bottle, cooler temperatures make it much more difficult to use their regulating of their boyancy system properly and we see the failure of the system - There are specific body parts and system response affects but that is for another story. For me they are fed differently, changed differently (no Huggies) will be given warmer temperatures. My "once over' weekly is twice over for these pearls and calicos - fungi and bacterial dearth sentencesa - such as slime coat breakdo=wn and the ravages they can do in two days - makes this a necessity. That skin - without a real serious weekly exam - will never let on there is a problem until it is to late - the skin is simply one busy meass of colors and textures. Yoiu have to engage in a serice few minutes each week doing the once-over. That is also another story.
  14. I sent u the informat6ionon your messenger
  15. What did - of do I do - to them- I spoil them beyond sickening rotten. If one gets a little sniffle we gear up for a pandemic- LOL- Punch is very unique- all of mine are taught to be handled from the first day here. I mentioned why I do that at the beginning of this topic - Generally - however - none are so demanding for attemtion like Punch is- But that is ok - I have to catch myself once amnd a while - in a kinda - maybe - push a little to find another like Punch - I have to be on guard with myself about that -
  16. In answer to chubbygold - Although - with Thurston has never been in the 55 gallon tanks with the othger males - I be3lieve he would compete for her. I have seen females almost wear out from being chased in other keepers tanks. My 55 gallon tanks have two females and two males. But the most important thing that I have found with these horney mutts is to give plenty of live plants - in my case - to the tanks - this always gives the females an escape place from the males. Then they choose when they wish to come out and tease the males by swimming close enough to allow the tail to pass across their head or under the chin- that usually gets them - the males - going - the little aquateases!!!!
  17. No there is not glue between the two of them - But this is the way they swim together a lot of the time- you talk about inseperable ....She never gets a break!
  18. Chivalry Goldie style - Warning - his sweetie is in the cave - no one enters!!!! or they will get fin-slapped....
  19. A gentleman Goldfish - Fighting the hunger pains with edicate.....
  20. Is there no privacy in this fish tank?!!!!
  21. Pics continued: The King stands guard over "his woman" lol
  22. I thought I would share some goldie amusement. Thurston, my male goldie - has a real thing for Lovie - his paired Pearlscale - eat your heart out Gilligan! Anyway over the months Thurston has become extremely protective of Lovie - all of my goldies are taught to trust the hand - some - like Punch enjoy being carassed - as I am sure most of you saw his film on utube. The reason why I make sure they all learn early to trust the hand and not fear being handled; skin types, like Pearlscales, are the most difficult to determine, early, any skin problems- diseases, etc. If they are friendly to the hand - it makes it a lotr easier to handle them and take a quick observation of the body and fins for decay, etc... and catch it early. It can drive you crazy otherwise, when trying to "look them over". Well; Thurston has become the mirror image of a Meerkat male. When I am checking out Lovie - he will nip and grab at me; while raising his sail fin as high as it will go; letting me know of his displeasure in my handling "His Woman" lol/// In fact - he has - lately shown a side that I have rarely observed in Goldies. When they are fed - He will wait and maintain vigilance over Lovie until she is stuffed. I have a large "cave" orntament in the tank they are housed in - when Lovie goes in to "check things out" inside - He stands guard outside, sailfin extended high in the air - looking away from the opening - like Leona Helmsley standing guard at her hotel...When they rest - they are touching side by side. I have never seen such devotion and dedication between Goldie pairs. Of course their personalities are totally opposite - but that is for another topic. I have included photos of these observations for your enjoyment. Please excuse the quality in that the images were pulled from a video run. As well; this pair has been seperated into a 28 gallon tank. The algae you see -slightly blurring the glass - is from a bloom I was inducing for Thursaton's sake. He is a sucker for algae - his demand is much greater than I have seen , generally, in goldies. So, in his case, we have allowed some extra bloom - but that does little to improve the Image quality. Hopefully; you will be able to see, as I do, Thuirston's "intent and serious stance" in the photos - enjoy...
  23. I must fall in one more time to make a reply to the comment that was made - in keeping it around just in case. Consider this; if you keep it around to handle problems that crop up or to remove toxins that we know are in the water because we added them as treatyment; it must be good enough, in our minds as a preventitive gardian, of sorts, to be placed in an active state in the system. Jewel had an unfortunate situation where she used the wrong sponge to clean her tank. It was a mistake and a learning experience - The specific toxin in the sponge she used will, probably, not be known. I submit; those that depend upon carbon as the removal product to clean up tanks from medicines and alike, may wish to consider what it would accomplish if one of you were to make a sililar mistake and not realize the mistake, as she did, till later - Would the carbon, active in the system instead of sitting on the shelf in a ready to use mode during the time you were not aware of the mistake, remove signifigant amounts of the unintentionally added material - buying you more time to save your pets and minimize the damage. It was to late when Jewel realized the mistake - but we can all learn from these errors and her loss - to protect ourselves by standing guard up front instead of placing ourselves in a reactionary mode - which - for goldies - means a "to late to do anything" mode.
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