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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/13/2021 in Posts

  1. The new tank looks great! I picked these guys up off someone on next-door. They had outgrown their tank. They said their son had wanted fish but they didn't realise how big they got. They are quarantining in my old small pond that I no longer have running full time, and will eventually go into the big pond. I'm sure they will love it. The tank they were in was probably only about 30 litres or so. They already love the small pond which is about 600litres. The big pond is 1500 litres so will be paradise for them.
    3 points
  2. His new tank. He looks tiny in it.
    3 points
  3. Thank you! You probably don’t remember me, but you helped me with a pair of little goldies I had some years back. I don’t post much, but I follow and enjoy reading about the little fishies. Donetta
    1 point
  4. 1 point
  5. Emptied my my shed and started work. Exposed rainwater pipe so I can put a drain in.
    1 point
  6. Well, I've put about 7 hours and a lot of money into this hole today.
    1 point
  7. Get whatever you want! Seriously, if you’re doing research buy whatever you’re comfortable with. 65 gallon going up only two or three degrees from room temperature doesn’t need a ton of power to bump up, and if you want to use it on a smaller hospital tank too if the need arises then a 200 watt is overkill. But seriously you’re overthinking this, I promise! Of all the parts of the hobby that are tricky, equipment is fairly simple. It’s more a matter of what you want to spend and the reliability and quality, than actual function. The cheaper stuff tends to last less time and not control parameters/speed/flows quite as tightly. But it still works just fine.
    1 point
  8. I believe the outdoors is far better for living things. I started 2 daphnia cultures a few years ago. 1 I started in my fish room and one outside. I found the one in my fishroom crashed repeatedly but the one outside crashed once, bounced back and then found an equilibrium. I have always put it down to the layer of mulm that accumulated at the bottom. I feel it fueled algae to grow etc which in turn the daphnia hung around
    1 point
  9. I've got got myself a fluval 3.0 plant light ready for when my plants arrive. There's another tank for sale close to me the same as mine. Tempted to get it and order some Oranda. However, I've been invited to a zoom chat on Monday with the BAS who are going to help me decide on setting up a breeding set up. I've also been invited to the AMGK annual show and auction next Sunday.
    1 point
  10. I change more like 80%, but yeah. As long as your nitrates are staying in the 5-10 ppm range you’re good, whether that is twice weekly or every two weeks… it really depends on the bio load of your aquarium, but in a cycled tank that’s what we aim for. Find a heater, I don’t care 😆 seriously there are lots of good brands. I’ve used eheim, ebo jager, tetra, many great brands. For a tank that size a 100 watt should be plenty. Yes you leave it on 24/7, you set the temp you want and the heater has a sensor and cycles on and off as needed to hold it steady filter cleaning - correct. Thwack the media against the side of the rinse bucket and squish any sponges or floss in old tank water, not tap water which has chlorine and will kill some of your beneficial bacteria. Monthly with this, add or replace part of the media as it disintegrates, but otherwise you’re good! I’ve had floss pads in canisters for 3-4 years before they break down and sponges longer than that! I think you’ve got it!
    1 point
  11. ah I thought I followed this thread and didn’t click it, sorry! You can @(my username) to grab my attention if that happens again Yes, I think the two filters should let you get away with partial weekly changes. Always err on the bigger side if your water is stable, and make sure you’re knock the gunk out of your filters monthly so they don’t make your nitrates spike over time. Get a heater - seriously. It will warm it up and hold it steady and if you need to treat in a hospital tank you’ll need a heater and this way you will have one on hand. My tanks are planted - LED lights are still my fave. I can’t really advise you on specifics, because it depends on the dimensions of your tank. But I love the information page on American Aquarium Products for this and they sell very solid products too, but can help you narrow down which type of light might be best for you: https://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquaRayLEDLighting.html
    1 point
  12. And microscopes and slides/stains/cover sheets are not expensive. I think I got all and a decent microscope for $70? We use it for our high school bio and such.
    1 point
  13. And yes to this, if you’re dealing with flukes, lice, etc, there are more specific treatments to manage them. Dimilin, flubendazole, even formalin. It just depends on what you’re actually trying to treat. But prophylactic treatments in ponds really should be kept to a minimum, I think.
    1 point
  14. Most ponders do not use PraziPro. It is costly to use in large systems and Prazi itself has been abused in the hobby and many of us find it is fairly ineffective at treating flukes in outdoor systems. Also - nobody recommends keeping salt in ponds longterm. This is unnecessary. Flukes are very salt resistant due to salt abuse in the hobby and it has little to no effect on them now. Also, Hikari, the makers of PraziPro recommend not to use salt with their product. If you want to use salt with prazi, you need to use the powdered form. Have you done scrapes and checked in the microscope to be sure you are treating flukes? Ponders need microscopes. Period. Are they gill flukes or body flukes? It is uncommon that fish have both. Flukes issues are generally early spring issues if you have them. If you are CERTAIN you are dealing with flukes - Flubendazole is a better treatment for outdoor systems.
    1 point
  15. My fishie friends are well loved for food wise. But neither of them want to lift a fin to clean the tank!
    1 point
  16. They definitely look well loved!
    1 point
  17. I've had fish like that. I put them in my pond and 12 months later they were like koi
    1 point
  18. I suppose drip systems and culling are over rated and keeping large amounts of low quality fish is under rated.
    1 point
  19. Can’t wait to see the new fishy!
    1 point
  20. I agree, first photo looks like fish lice, but I would like to see a clearer photo. However, I can show you some photos of fish lice to help your ID at home. I think they are cute, but I wouldn't want them on my pet fish. Good Luck with your new Goldfish Adventure!
    1 point
  21. I have in the past feed my fish the Gel frozen version of Ocean Nutrition Formula. It has a lot of good ingrediencies in there for the goldfish. I see why not feed it to them.
    1 point
  22. Im laughing cause he looks so small now in that tank. I just goes to show you just how big these guys get. 😮
    1 point
  23. Please copy & paste the following form and fill it out to the best of your ability when requesting help for Goldfish Problems: Test Results for the Following: Ammonia Level(Tank) Nitrite Level(Tank) Nitrate level(Tank) Ammonia Level(Tap) Nitrite Level(Tap) Nitrate level(Tap) Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Other Required Info: Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? Water temperature? Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? How often do you change the water and how much? How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? How many fish in the tank and their size? What kind of water additives or conditioners? What do you feed your fish and how often? Any new fish added to the tank? Any medications added to the tank? List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank.Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? "If copy and paste doesn't work for you, quote this post and put your answers after each question." and Also IMO I think you have a fish Louse on that first fish. The second one looks to have Anchor Worm (not quite Clear) But these fish have a parasite on them.
    1 point
  24. Lucky I didn't have to pay for it to be shipped. His attitude was I shouldn't be further out of pocket when ordering top quality fish. His customer service seemed great. But for me I think I'd be better going through a breeder to build my collection atm. I think it would prove very costly to build my collection ordering online. Especially if the same thing happens again.
    1 point
  25. I'm in the process of finding some breeders through the clubs. My other half doesn't want me to order from there again.
    1 point
  26. HEY, DO NOT BEAT YOUR SELF UP, WHERE ARE ALL HAVE BEEN THERE AND YOU APPEAR TO BE TRYING HARD., ONE TEASPOON OF SALT PER GALLON. FOR YOUR 40 GALLON I WOULD RECOMMEND THE AQUA CLEAR POWER FILTER FOR TANKS UP TO 70 GALLONS IN SIZE
    1 point
  27. Shion getting tank upgrade soon. Got a bomb deal on this tank. I don't like the 55 for my favorite deep bodied fish as sometimes they struggle in them - but I think Shion and another longer bodied Oranda will do fine here. I ordered him a friend to QT and we shall see how it all goes.
    1 point
  28. Hi *9:52 PM and short talk* How are you doing? love ya.
    1 point
  29. Yes it will be great . I have to work out how the filter works and then fill up the tank and cycle it . Just 4 large goldfish so I think they will be very happy in there.👍😁😁
    1 point
  30. I am building a very strong DIY stand for my new aquarium . It will be on an oak floor in the kitchen diner .Here is the delivery of blocks and still waiting for the counter top to come .
    1 point
  31. I wanted to start a new post about Anchor Worms and my experiences with various treatments, as I think it will be a help to others. There is not much general information out there online about Anchor Worms (Lerrnaea) as they have not been as common of a problem as say Ich or Flukes. I believe that there will be more of a need-- especially with outbreaks taking place at large retailers- and those purchases ending up in the home aquarium. My topline judgment, for those who do not want to read my pontifications, is: If you see one anchor worm on your Goldfish- Please Order the Dimilin X Pond treatment immediately, so you have it, as the infestation will get worse. Its $25 American Dollars on EBay. (Credit for this information to Shihpuff who has also posted on this forum). Most likely the inside of the fish’s mouths and gills will also have the worms attached to them in- either in the invisible larvae or adult form. (Gross!) Dimilin is the only treatment that has worked for me- more on that and the treatments that did not work- later. Anchor Worms are brought in from the outside- and fish do not need to be stressed or be in poor water conditions to have them. I was foolish not to quarantine a fish from Pet Smart which then infected my entire tank. My water conditions were perfect, and I had a very light bio load, so there were no other stressors in my tank to make this parasite worse. I, in turn, made the situation worse, and lost time with a misdiagnosis. Some key observations that got me confused as to what it was I was dealing with: -An anchor worm infestation can mimic fluke-like symptoms- with bottom sitting fish, lethargy and a general sadness of the population. There is so much information on the web about flukes- with good reason- but that hype made me jump initially to the wrong diagnostic conclusion! -Even if you just see one or two Anchor Worms on the outside of the fish- the gills and inside of the mouth is also probably heavily infested- especially if your fish are showing lethargic behavioral symptoms. The invisible larvae also house themselves in the gills of fish, so if you have an adult AW in the tank, chances are you’ll have young Klingons that you cannot see festering in the gills. In sum- You may have them multiplying in areas that you cannot or did not think to previously observe! My Treatment Notes: -Fluke medicine (Prazi) and the API’s Parasite Guard will not address Anchor Worms, even if other sources they say they do. The API Parasite guard simply damaged my filters instead. I have Prazi on hand at least - if I should ever get flukes in my tank! -There is a solution on the market that treats the ‘conditions’ caused by Anchor Worms- but it does not take care of the worms themselves, Please read labels carefully! -Salinity was increased in my tank to 3 TSP / gal- (just under 3.5 of AQ Salt total cups for a 55 gal tank) while this helped with preventing infected wounds & secondary disease caused by the Anchor Worms- it did nothing to control the worm population or their spread. This is also a common statement/solution on the web- which did nothing for my situation. If I were to do it again I would still salt but probably at 1.5-2 tsp per gallon- as 3 tsp per gal is very hard on the bio filter. -The heat was turned up to 79F- to help speed the lifecycle of the worm, this probably made them spread faster- but I wanted them to move through their lifecycle so the treatments I was using would also work sooner on the eggs and future larvae, coming up through the ranks. I’d still recommend increasing the heat during treatments. -1 methylene blue dip was done per day on the fish at 1 TSP per 5 gallons for 30 minutes- I believe this helped with secondary bacterial/fungal prevention but it did nothing to eradicate the worms attached to the the gills, mouth and outer scales. I’d still recommend doing this for lethargic ‘sad’ fish as this helped pep them up a bit. Methylene blue is a mild anti-fungal/bacterial agent that also helps the fish with gill function and oxygen absorption. - Minn Finn, is a Peracetic acid based medication that is left in the tank for 30 min (up to an hour if the fish can handle it) with a neutralizing solution to clear the medication at the end of the treatment period. It states it will control Anchor Worms in 2-3 treatments. Nope, nope and nope. I used this as directed for 1 hour over 3 treatments/days as directed- and it simply did not work. This killed my bio filter from kinda dead -to D.O.A. Now my notes on Dimilin: Dimilin X is the only thing that worked on this parasite. Because Anchor Worms are crustaceans they go through several life stages where they molt their outer skeleton. Dimilin is an Insecticide, NOT a medication. This insecticide interrupts the molting cycle of the worm- not killing it right away- but killing it as it moves through its lifecycle and molts its exoskeleton. In my online ‘research’- it’s the only real guarantee out there for getting the job done. There are university studies done on it for aquatic agriculture. Dimilin is not going to be sold in a big box pet chain store- nor will it likely be in your local indie fish shop. I wouldn’t even try looking for it. You might find it at a specialty koi pond store, if there is one in your area. Its really marketed for larger ponds and for treating koi. The word ‘Insecticide’ sounds scary, but Dimilin is much safer to humans and fish than Formalin, Potassium Perm and other really harsh nasty treatments on the market. Please don’t waste your energy, money and time with other ‘cures’ that say they will work, you’ll just lose equity and valuable time. It’s also noted on the label that it will not stress or harm the bio filter in a system- another huge plus! I used Dimilin X- based on the dosage of 1 TSP per 500 gallons. Have a friend in the hobby? Split the cost as it’s a very very concentrated formula and again is formulated for ponds. I calculated this to a little bit less than 1/8 TSP for my 55 gallon tank! The first 24 hours after treating with Dimilin there was no noticeable change in behavior or the number of attached Anchor Worms- this is understandable as the insecticide is systemic and focuses on exoskeleton formation. It will not kill the parasite immediately. About 30 hours (1.5 days) later- the fish started acting more alert and more like themselves, with more active swimming, attentiveness and less sadness. I caught the fish and noticed that the Anchor Worms attached to the fish were still slightly attached- but appeared to be dead. The ends of the worms closest to the fish’s body looked to me to be almost disintegrated- 'slimey' instead of solid. The worms pulled off with very little effort or discomfort to the fish. When pulling a live anchor worm off a fish- you need a strong tug and the will to pull them out! 48 hours later (2 full days) the fish are acting almost normal- with active swimming and the desire to eat. One of the fish- hit the hardest with bite wounds is still being dipped in meth blue on a daily basis. A couple of worms are still attached to one of the fish but appear to be hanging on dead. 60 hours later (2.5 days) the fish are acting normal- no sign of the attached worms on anyone that I can see. So finally in summary!- I spent two weeks trying to combat this problem with medications/methods that did not work. Dimilin eradicated the pestilence in less than 3 days!
    1 point
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