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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/27/2021 in Posts

  1. The new tank looks great! I picked these guys up off someone on next-door. They had outgrown their tank. They said their son had wanted fish but they didn't realise how big they got. They are quarantining in my old small pond that I no longer have running full time, and will eventually go into the big pond. I'm sure they will love it. The tank they were in was probably only about 30 litres or so. They already love the small pond which is about 600litres. The big pond is 1500 litres so will be paradise for them.
    3 points
  2. His new tank. He looks tiny in it.
    3 points
  3. I've got got myself a fluval 3.0 plant light ready for when my plants arrive. There's another tank for sale close to me the same as mine. Tempted to get it and order some Oranda. However, I've been invited to a zoom chat on Monday with the BAS who are going to help me decide on setting up a breeding set up. I've also been invited to the AMGK annual show and auction next Sunday.
    2 points
  4. And yes to this, if you’re dealing with flukes, lice, etc, there are more specific treatments to manage them. Dimilin, flubendazole, even formalin. It just depends on what you’re actually trying to treat. But prophylactic treatments in ponds really should be kept to a minimum, I think.
    2 points
  5. Most ponders do not use PraziPro. It is costly to use in large systems and Prazi itself has been abused in the hobby and many of us find it is fairly ineffective at treating flukes in outdoor systems. Also - nobody recommends keeping salt in ponds longterm. This is unnecessary. Flukes are very salt resistant due to salt abuse in the hobby and it has little to no effect on them now. Also, Hikari, the makers of PraziPro recommend not to use salt with their product. If you want to use salt with prazi, you need to use the powdered form. Have you done scrapes and checked in the microscope to be sure you are treating flukes? Ponders need microscopes. Period. Are they gill flukes or body flukes? It is uncommon that fish have both. Flukes issues are generally early spring issues if you have them. If you are CERTAIN you are dealing with flukes - Flubendazole is a better treatment for outdoor systems.
    2 points
  6. Hi *9:52 PM and short talk* How are you doing? love ya.
    2 points
  7. Welcome to Koko's , the best place for information on Goldfish. You will get a lot of friendly help here.
    2 points
  8. Cleaned outdoor system- Elizabeth and her children. LOL
    2 points
  9. Some quick phone photos of my pondies. Computer problems make it hard to upload nicer photos from my computer at the moment. Water is very green but they like it. Everyone except for Herbie (Comet covered with tumors) and Arty (Colourful Shubunkin) were born here
    2 points
  10. Hello all, Back in 2016 I found Koko's when I had no idea how I made a big mistake and lost 6 goldfish. I had learned so much from the wonderful people here. I now have started keeping goldfish again, and wanted to come back the wonderful community of Koko's . I have 3 Goldfish right now, a red-white Oranda , a calico Oranda , both about 2 1/2"-3" inches long. I also have a panda telescope about 2" long. I can't wait to how big they get.
    2 points
  11. First "wall" panel done! Decided to go with anubis for the sides since it is smaller and doesn't need super bright light - its super easy to add more plants as well. The matting should give the roots something to cling to and I can get more plants as needed depending on how much it fills in The Calico is Banjo, the silver one is Shimi so glad to be done with QT finally
    2 points
  12. Good to hear from on you. Dang you working hard! It’s always exciting getting new fish. Hopefully it all works out for you. I look forward to seeing the video. Glad you remember me. You sure helped me out a bunch. I just got a new fish. I’ve had him almost four weeks. He seems to be doing great. This is really the first goldfish that seems to be working out. Hope it stays like that. He is just a joy. I haven’t named him yet, been kind of waiting to see how he does I guess. I’ll start thinking of names. I want to attach a video, but they say it’s the wrong extension. I have an IPhone. How do you work that out? keep us updated 😀 Donetta
    1 point
  13. Thank you! You probably don’t remember me, but you helped me with a pair of little goldies I had some years back. I don’t post much, but I follow and enjoy reading about the little fishies. Donetta
    1 point
  14. Ziggy is beautiful!!
    1 point
  15. Well, I've put about 7 hours and a lot of money into this hole today.
    1 point
  16. Here he is - he's a Kirin. He is smaller than Shion. His name is Ziggy.
    1 point
  17. Get whatever you want! Seriously, if you’re doing research buy whatever you’re comfortable with. 65 gallon going up only two or three degrees from room temperature doesn’t need a ton of power to bump up, and if you want to use it on a smaller hospital tank too if the need arises then a 200 watt is overkill. But seriously you’re overthinking this, I promise! Of all the parts of the hobby that are tricky, equipment is fairly simple. It’s more a matter of what you want to spend and the reliability and quality, than actual function. The cheaper stuff tends to last less time and not control parameters/speed/flows quite as tightly. But it still works just fine.
    1 point
  18. Part of me is excited another part of me is thinking 'what have I got myself into.' 😂
    1 point
  19. ah I thought I followed this thread and didn’t click it, sorry! You can @(my username) to grab my attention if that happens again Yes, I think the two filters should let you get away with partial weekly changes. Always err on the bigger side if your water is stable, and make sure you’re knock the gunk out of your filters monthly so they don’t make your nitrates spike over time. Get a heater - seriously. It will warm it up and hold it steady and if you need to treat in a hospital tank you’ll need a heater and this way you will have one on hand. My tanks are planted - LED lights are still my fave. I can’t really advise you on specifics, because it depends on the dimensions of your tank. But I love the information page on American Aquarium Products for this and they sell very solid products too, but can help you narrow down which type of light might be best for you: https://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquaRayLEDLighting.html
    1 point
  20. They definitely look well loved!
    1 point
  21. Im laughing cause he looks so small now in that tank. I just goes to show you just how big these guys get. 😮
    1 point
  22. Please copy & paste the following form and fill it out to the best of your ability when requesting help for Goldfish Problems: Test Results for the Following: Ammonia Level(Tank) Nitrite Level(Tank) Nitrate level(Tank) Ammonia Level(Tap) Nitrite Level(Tap) Nitrate level(Tap) Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Other Required Info: Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? Water temperature? Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? How often do you change the water and how much? How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? How many fish in the tank and their size? What kind of water additives or conditioners? What do you feed your fish and how often? Any new fish added to the tank? Any medications added to the tank? List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank.Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? "If copy and paste doesn't work for you, quote this post and put your answers after each question." and Also IMO I think you have a fish Louse on that first fish. The second one looks to have Anchor Worm (not quite Clear) But these fish have a parasite on them.
    1 point
  23. I'm in the process of finding some breeders through the clubs. My other half doesn't want me to order from there again.
    1 point
  24. Shion getting tank upgrade soon. Got a bomb deal on this tank. I don't like the 55 for my favorite deep bodied fish as sometimes they struggle in them - but I think Shion and another longer bodied Oranda will do fine here. I ordered him a friend to QT and we shall see how it all goes.
    1 point
  25. I've always follow the same QT procedure. One from this forum and every goldfish I've bought before has been fine through the QT. I contacted the vendor after the first fish died, there's another fish on its way to me now. As soon as it hid I knew something was wrong. I kept watching to see if it would eat but nothing. It didn't poop in all the time it was in the tank. I've absolutely stripped the tank bare and left it dry. I'm going to have to do a fish in cycle. I will fill tomorrow before the fish arrives. I am quite upset with the situation. I haven't had a fish die on me in at least 6 years and in that time I've owned hundreds.
    1 point
  26. I agree. I lost many many fish due to neglect when I got extremely sick. Tons of debris fell from the trees, it needs to be removed or it'll rot. I wasn't able to remove it and nobody did it for me, so the TONS of rotting acorns killed many fish. I had 4 pools with many fish, I ended up downsizing to only one pool and took the survivors and put them all together. I have a 100 gallon pool with 7 adult goldfish and 4 babies that were accidentally born in there and lived. Massively overstocked. Despite this, the parameters are ALWAYS 0/0/0 year round so long as I keep the net clear of any falling debris which is easy. The pool is in direct sunlight and stays green. It is October and fall and it's still green. It's the green that keeps the system healthy. Try that many fish with a 100 gallon TANK and there would likely be illnesses and issues left and right. I may put up another pool next spring, we will see. I won't get rid of any of my fish. Most have been with me many years and I honestly think they fare better here even with the overstock than in someone's tank.
    1 point
  27. I don't have any fish to show at the moment but I'd like to do it once I get some fish to a good size. The breeding side of things really excites me. I'd love to have my own fish and breed some rare types. I was going through the list of what people have bred and what is on offer. There's some jikin and wakin been bred which I would like a go at but I'm going to stick with my ranchu and oranda for now.
    1 point
  28. and Please copy & paste the following form and fill it out to the best of your ability when requesting help for Goldfish Problems: Test Results for the Following: Ammonia Level(Tank) Nitrite Level(Tank) Nitrate level(Tank) Ammonia Level(Tap) Nitrite Level(Tap) Nitrate level(Tap) Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Other Required Info: Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? Water temperature? Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? How often do you change the water and how much? How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? How many fish in the tank and their size? What kind of water additives or conditioners? What do you feed your fish and how often? Any new fish added to the tank? Any medications added to the tank? List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank.Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? "If copy and paste doesn't work for you, quote this post and put your answers after each question."
    1 point
  29. Hi everyone! I am new here and I am overwhelmed on how this site works lol but hopefully I get the hang of it? Is there a help section or guide so I can learn how to explore this forum? thanks! Let me introduce myself, I am Kayla, 21 y/o, a Filipina living in the UAE, currently I have jumped into this hobby about a month ago and it's been crazy and stressful bcus I wasn't the one who adopted the fishies that I have at home but I care for them a lot! Newbie here and trying my best! I will also be posting something later (in the "Sick Fish? Need Help?" topic) cuz I really need the information I can get and it's gonna be long but I thought to post this first to say Hi But I'm grateful to be able to come across this forum. I don't have anyone else to talk to about goldfishes who really know what they're doing. Here are some of my goldies! Megamind, a baby oranda, 1.5 inches idk how old he is Motee, a young pearlscale, she's sooo cute! Jellybean, a baby oranda, I think she's a bit bigger than Megamind hh Rascal, a young shubunkin, I might have to give him away some day cuz he's a fast swimmer Stevie, a black moor with only one eye on his left! He's the coolest! I wonder if he lost his right eye or was born without it Wonder, a young black moor, who came along with Stevie haha This is how small they are compared with my hand next to them But anyway, cheers! I hope they'll live a looonggg time hehe
    1 point
  30. On man. but at least hes still here with ya 🤗
    1 point
  31. Okay Okay. IMO they aren't harder to keep per say. Its just they are more compact than say your fantails or single tail fish. So IMO I would suggest keeping in long tanks. Also feeding them lots of Duckweed and Veggie foods. I have had a few of them and my longest lived one was 8 years old. 🤗
    1 point
  32. Hey they do look very cute. We have a sections for about every thing goldfish. Plus there is a search button at the top. Have you read our general guidelines on raising goldfish? I am glad you found us. Yes big forums can be overwhelming. But we will try and help you out as best as we can 🤗
    1 point
  33. I like the bigger one the best. His little shape and wen is cute.
    1 point
  34. We are in agreement then! And lovely Shubunkins you have indeed! Actually the second one looks a lot like one of the babies of my lady Elizabeth. The yellow in these babies came from lemonhead Orandas that she bred with. Just accidental survivors. Love them all the same tho.
    1 point
  35. I think not breeding true is on an entirely different level when referring to the ethics of a business then surmising that they are passing off hybrids as goldfish. But now I understand you are coming at this entirely from a breeders perspective. I think we can both agree there are MANY EXQUISITE goldfish on Blackwater Creek Koi Farm's web page that AREN'T labeled Sanke that are WELL below $900 that people can enjoy without concern. I am posting pictures of my two goldies that I got from Blackwater. Total they cost my $25 and a 5 hour round trip to their dealer. I am sure they are far from show quality but I find them to be much higher quality in health and looks then the big box stores. I am not much a fan of the small patterned calico highly metallic shubunkins I see at many petco's and petsmart's. The colors just look a bit muddy to me. What I love about Blackwater Creek is they seem to breed for the larger blocks of color that I personally find attractive but most importantly they're fish seem healthy and thriving. Anyway it's been an engaging debate that I think proves people have different priorities when purchasing fish.
    1 point
  36. Welcome back! It appears a few of us have returned recently. I'm hoping we get the forum nice and active again!
    1 point
  37. Thanks Koko, I've been doing a lot of reading about the beneficial bacteria and I'm getting very sceptical of a lot of claims companies make. I'm starting to think that a 4 inch substrate is under rated. The salt water hobbyists seem to get this but the freshwater side seem to have been bombarded with fx6 and prime, fx6 and prime. From what I've been reading, it seems that an undergravel filter with 4 inches of substrate could be amazing at breaking everything down, especially if facultative bacteria are cultured in the deeper 2 inches of the substrate. In theory this means the top 2 inches would convert ammonia to nitrate, while the other 2 inches break down organics and process nitrate. I'm still doing a lot of reading but but plants and substrate seems to play a bigger role than plastic filters media that bacteria arguably find hard to colonise.
    1 point
  38. Looks great. Here's my planted goldfish tank. Can't keep anything in place because Shion is a messpot... but I definitely put just enough black sand to cover the bottom. I've never been a fan of bare bottomed tanks.
    1 point
  39. WOW! That came out really cool. I would just keep updating us here. I can't wait to see how it progresses 👍
    1 point
  40. I have had several personal friends order fancies from Next Day Koi. They had typical imported fish problems - so if you order from there... be sure to quarantine very carefully.
    1 point
  41. Hey there! I'm also a fan of long bodied fish. I had not heard of Blackwater Creek, but after checking them out, they do seem to have some beautiful goldfish in unusual colors. Please post photos of the fish you got from them! Good to hear they have good customer service. As for another source, I'd suggest checking out NextDayKoi. They offer black, white and apricot color goldfish (pure yellow is difficult to find in the USA) and many others. Their sock changes once a month to every few weeks. They also offer different fish (goldfish and koi) on their ebay page. I haven't bought fish from them yet, but I've been watching their website for a long while now. Good Luck on your search!
    1 point
  42. I would recommend much larger and weekly water changes. Four goldfish in a tank like yours can cause issues with the water quality. Make sure you vacuum the gravel with each water change. So long as the ph moves slowly over time there is little to be concerned about as previously stated goldfish have a very high ph range. However a sudden drop in ph is indicative of a nitrogen crash which can lead to high ammonia and nitrite levels very quickly
    1 point
  43. it seems like a vendors are giving strange names to goldfish and koi these days
    1 point
  44. I definitely have a lot of experience with fish with swimming issues so I'm sure we will be able to work out anything that comes up The Nymph label made me laugh lol, I knew Jeff was Ryukin but was debating between fantail and Ryukin for Gemmy.
    1 point
  45. I went to a LFS that I've never been to yesterday. It was a tiny little shop, but clean and tidy. They had a bunch of goldies labelled as nymphs, they aren't nymphs. But it honestly doesn't bother me what they are called Their goldfish section was quite small, most if it was saltwater and tropicals. But i did leave with these two calico "nymphs" (Lol). My friends 6 year old son named them, so they are named Gemmy and Jeff. Jeff makes me laugh so much. Such a random name for a fish. I love it. Gemmys photo is blurry, photos were taken at the shop. I'll get better photos sometime soon! Its a bit hard in the QT tub.
    1 point
  46. Hi Jim, I’m sorry to hear your fish are struggling! We need a lot more details about what’s going on to help, pictures of some of the affected fish, both sick a passed if you have them, and please give me a good description of the environment around the tank. Poisoning from cleaning supplies or the water source is not uncommon with this sort of die off. Please test your older tank water and tap source and fill this out as completely as possible. I’ll do my best to assist. Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank) * Nitrite Level(Tank) * Nitrate level(Tank) * Ammonia Level(Tap) * Nitrite Level(Tap) * Nitrate level(Tap) * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? * Water temperature? * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? * How often do you change the water and how much? * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? * How many fish in the tank and their size? * What kind of water additives or conditioners? * What do you feed your fish and how often? * Any new fish added to the tank? * Any medications added to the tank? * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank.Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?
    1 point
  47. Kinds of medicines to use Potassium Permaganate (pp): Flukes, Columnars, bacterial gill disease and fungus. Gel Tek Penicillin: Fin Rot, Cloudy bulging eyes, Mouth sores, Bacterial infections and Septicemia Tetracycline: Gill disease, Bacterial infections (tail rot, ulcers, sores, dropsy, popeye) Columnaris, Aeromonas, Pseudomonas and Chondocuccus. Ampicillin: Bacterial infections, Popeye, Swollen Body, Kidney disease, Fin rot, Flaxibacter infections and Septicemia. Melafix: Heals open wounds & abrasions, treats fin and tail rot, eye cloud, mouth fungus and promotes regrowth of damaged fin rays & tissue. Life Bearer: Gill Flukes, as well as Fish Lice, Anchor Worms and leeches. QuickCure: Ich, Chilodonella, Trichodina and Costia. Anchors Away: Very effective treatment against Anchor worm (lernea) and Fish Lice (argulus). Nox-Ich: Treats Ich. Maracyn: Body Fungus, Columnaris, Fin and Tail Rot, Popeye, Gill disease, secondary infections, Bacterial Infections and Fungal Diseases. Maracyn Two: Fin and Tail rot, Popeye, Gill disease, Dropsy, Bleeding or Red Streaks, Secondary and Internal infections. Praziquantel (Prazi, Prazi-Pro): Gill and Body Flukes, and Internal Worms like Tapeworms. Dimilin: For the control of Anchor Worm (Lernaea) and and Fish Lice (Argulus). Nitrofura-G; Red Streaks, Fin and Tail Deterioration, Open Sores, General Bacterial Infections, Gill Diseases, and Fungal Infections. Chloramine T: If dosed properly and according to your water hardness, it is very good at helping to cure baterial gill disease (symptoms are swollen and/or pale gills), body fungus and bacterial infections. Acriflavin: Treats Ich, Costia, Chilodonella, and Tetrahymena. Metronidazole: Treats Spironucleus and Hexamita. Used in some SBD cases that are considered to be of bacterial origin. Parasite Clear (Jungle Labs): Treats Flukes, Tapeworms, Ich, Costia, Chilodonella, Tetrahymena, Ergasilus, Epystilus, Argulus, Spironucleus, and Hexamita.
    1 point
  48. Day 1 of the fishless cycle, I slowly added ammonia until I got the following readings: High Range pH: 8.4 Ammonia: 4.0 Nitrite: 0.0 Nitrate: 0.0 Today is Day 7 of the cycle: High Range pH: 8.2 Ammonia: 3.0 Nitrite: 1.0 Nitrate: 5.0 I did add an Anubias and some marimo moss balls, but that is the only change from Day 1. I wasn't expecting to see Nitrites/Nitrates yet? Is this unexpected? Are there any adjustments I should make?
    1 point
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