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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/21/2020 in all areas

  1. I've not yet had the opportunity to build my own pond , however I have a few years of experience with pools, sprinklers, wells and water treatment ( I can't seem to escape working with water) I have worked a few pools that were better suited for Koi than humans. Do you find that now that you have emptied the filter box that the leak is still occurring if so at the same rate or slower? what is the actual bottom and banks of the pond made of? dirt with rubber liner? concrete? gravel with liner? In pools the most common places for leaks to occur is around the collar of the main drain on the bottom, the mouth of the skimmer, and the breach of the wall for the pool light. * if your pumps are front loader and suck water through the side wall of the pond my hypothesis would be the constant flow has eroded around the material and has caused a weeping leak. You might be able to detect this by using some type of fine tip syringe with food coloring, with all equipment off inject wherever equipment or fittings breech the pond to see if you can see where the dye gets sucked out. You may have to scrub yourself down with a plastic brillo put on a rubber male contraceptive (or 2 for good measure) with once around with tape for watertight integrity ( prevents possible infection) and take a swim so you can see. If you've already isolated it to the secondary filter box, it might just save you headaches to build another box around the outside of your filter box made wood with a 2cm gap off the original box and pour hydraulic cement in to form a new outer-box fused to the old box in an effort to seal any pinholes or cracks you can't see. My thinking is outside of the original box rather than patching inside so that as the concrete cures over time any efflorescence that might form will have minimal surface area contact with the water the fish live in and any salts that might collect will be more on the outside. If you suspect that the crack or leak is in the bottom, and the box cannot be fully emptied or lifted up to seal underneath it may help to take the water level down as low as possible and line the bottom of the box with a screen like material, then gravel, then some type of clay, mud, or sludge from elsewhere in the pond to form like a natural plug for the hole or crack, another option would be to line the bottom of the box with gravel and hydraulic cement that, then whatever roots may have penetrated the bottom of the box will just keep growing into the ground and as the plant stock grow in girth and begin to get chocked by their own growth they will throw out new roots above the choke point in the stalks.( If removing the plants temporarily for inspection and repair is not an option) If you did need to hydraulic cement the bottom of the box even though hydraulic cement will setup under water its probably best to let it be hit with sun and soak on its own before exposing the ecosystem water to it and then circulating that water to the fish. I would steer away from any type of epoxy or putty since these things usually have many different chemicals with often unmentioned voc. Super fine sand may even work to plug bottom holes once it gets mixed in with some mud, detritus, biofilm and water. what are your thoughts on this? Best Regards, Jordan
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