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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/28/2021 in all areas

  1. The new tank looks great! I picked these guys up off someone on next-door. They had outgrown their tank. They said their son had wanted fish but they didn't realise how big they got. They are quarantining in my old small pond that I no longer have running full time, and will eventually go into the big pond. I'm sure they will love it. The tank they were in was probably only about 30 litres or so. They already love the small pond which is about 600litres. The big pond is 1500 litres so will be paradise for them.
    3 points
  2. His new tank. He looks tiny in it.
    3 points
  3. Groundwork is done. Ready to get inside and start the fun jobs.
    2 points
  4. I've got got myself a fluval 3.0 plant light ready for when my plants arrive. There's another tank for sale close to me the same as mine. Tempted to get it and order some Oranda. However, I've been invited to a zoom chat on Monday with the BAS who are going to help me decide on setting up a breeding set up. I've also been invited to the AMGK annual show and auction next Sunday.
    2 points
  5. And yes to this, if you’re dealing with flukes, lice, etc, there are more specific treatments to manage them. Dimilin, flubendazole, even formalin. It just depends on what you’re actually trying to treat. But prophylactic treatments in ponds really should be kept to a minimum, I think.
    2 points
  6. Most ponders do not use PraziPro. It is costly to use in large systems and Prazi itself has been abused in the hobby and many of us find it is fairly ineffective at treating flukes in outdoor systems. Also - nobody recommends keeping salt in ponds longterm. This is unnecessary. Flukes are very salt resistant due to salt abuse in the hobby and it has little to no effect on them now. Also, Hikari, the makers of PraziPro recommend not to use salt with their product. If you want to use salt with prazi, you need to use the powdered form. Have you done scrapes and checked in the microscope to be sure you are treating flukes? Ponders need microscopes. Period. Are they gill flukes or body flukes? It is uncommon that fish have both. Flukes issues are generally early spring issues if you have them. If you are CERTAIN you are dealing with flukes - Flubendazole is a better treatment for outdoor systems.
    2 points
  7. Hi *9:52 PM and short talk* How are you doing? love ya.
    2 points
  8. Welcome to Koko's , the best place for information on Goldfish. You will get a lot of friendly help here.
    2 points
  9. Cleaned outdoor system- Elizabeth and her children. LOL
    2 points
  10. Some quick phone photos of my pondies. Computer problems make it hard to upload nicer photos from my computer at the moment. Water is very green but they like it. Everyone except for Herbie (Comet covered with tumors) and Arty (Colourful Shubunkin) were born here
    2 points
  11. Hello all, Back in 2016 I found Koko's when I had no idea how I made a big mistake and lost 6 goldfish. I had learned so much from the wonderful people here. I now have started keeping goldfish again, and wanted to come back the wonderful community of Koko's . I have 3 Goldfish right now, a red-white Oranda , a calico Oranda , both about 2 1/2"-3" inches long. I also have a panda telescope about 2" long. I can't wait to how big they get.
    2 points
  12. First "wall" panel done! Decided to go with anubis for the sides since it is smaller and doesn't need super bright light - its super easy to add more plants as well. The matting should give the roots something to cling to and I can get more plants as needed depending on how much it fills in The Calico is Banjo, the silver one is Shimi so glad to be done with QT finally
    2 points
  13. Emptied my my shed and started work. Exposed rainwater pipe so I can put a drain in.
    1 point
  14. Good to hear from on you. Dang you working hard! It’s always exciting getting new fish. Hopefully it all works out for you. I look forward to seeing the video. Glad you remember me. You sure helped me out a bunch. I just got a new fish. I’ve had him almost four weeks. He seems to be doing great. This is really the first goldfish that seems to be working out. Hope it stays like that. He is just a joy. I haven’t named him yet, been kind of waiting to see how he does I guess. I’ll start thinking of names. I want to attach a video, but they say it’s the wrong extension. I have an IPhone. How do you work that out? keep us updated 😀 Donetta
    1 point
  15. Not particularly opposed - I just prefer to see them myself, watch them swim and interact in the tank, etc. I also am willing to drive several hours to see fish in person. Mostly, I want to avoid spending a fortune on a fish. I know that sounds bad, but I'm looking for something no more than $60 - including shipping - I just don't want to risk spending $100+ to get a fish delivered and then have it die. I want to be able to pick out the exact fish I want and ask about the sellers water parameters, medications, food, history as far as imported stock vs raised stock so that I know what kind of breeder I'm dealing with. I'm leaning more and more towards ranchu the more videos I watch of them. I did the same thing with my reptiles, once I found a reputable breeder I waited until they were going to be at a reptile show to meet them in person and discuss their husbandry and such. Breeders that I talked to when I was looking for my ball python that wouldn't respond to questions about housing and feeding or were unwilling to have me pick up in person were taken off my list.
    1 point
  16. Are you asking for Goldfish? IF so you really do not need a heater for them. They can live just fine with out a heater. I would save your money I personally love the Fluval LED light. https://www.amazon.com/Plant-Spectrum-Fluval-Bluetooth-Freshwater/dp/B07BBWVDMS/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1DYABQHMZAUFP&dchild=1&keywords=fluval+plant+3.0+led+light&qid=1634867862&sr=8-1 🤗
    1 point
  17. I have three tanks running as of right now. I'm afraid if I added anymore the floor in my apartment would collapse.
    1 point
  18. Ziggy is beautiful!!
    1 point
  19. Well, I've put about 7 hours and a lot of money into this hole today.
    1 point
  20. Here he is - he's a Kirin. He is smaller than Shion. His name is Ziggy.
    1 point
  21. I believe the outdoors is far better for living things. I started 2 daphnia cultures a few years ago. 1 I started in my fish room and one outside. I found the one in my fishroom crashed repeatedly but the one outside crashed once, bounced back and then found an equilibrium. I have always put it down to the layer of mulm that accumulated at the bottom. I feel it fueled algae to grow etc which in turn the daphnia hung around
    1 point
  22. And microscopes and slides/stains/cover sheets are not expensive. I think I got all and a decent microscope for $70? We use it for our high school bio and such.
    1 point
  23. My fishie friends are well loved for food wise. But neither of them want to lift a fin to clean the tank!
    1 point
  24. They definitely look well loved!
    1 point
  25. Can’t wait to see the new fishy!
    1 point
  26. I have in the past feed my fish the Gel frozen version of Ocean Nutrition Formula. It has a lot of good ingrediencies in there for the goldfish. I see why not feed it to them.
    1 point
  27. Im laughing cause he looks so small now in that tank. I just goes to show you just how big these guys get. 😮
    1 point
  28. Lucky I didn't have to pay for it to be shipped. His attitude was I shouldn't be further out of pocket when ordering top quality fish. His customer service seemed great. But for me I think I'd be better going through a breeder to build my collection atm. I think it would prove very costly to build my collection ordering online. Especially if the same thing happens again.
    1 point
  29. I'm in the process of finding some breeders through the clubs. My other half doesn't want me to order from there again.
    1 point
  30. Shion getting tank upgrade soon. Got a bomb deal on this tank. I don't like the 55 for my favorite deep bodied fish as sometimes they struggle in them - but I think Shion and another longer bodied Oranda will do fine here. I ordered him a friend to QT and we shall see how it all goes.
    1 point
  31. I would be upset too. Pay a lot of money to recieve sick fish. Hopefully the new fish is okay. Wishing the best.
    1 point
  32. I agree. I lost many many fish due to neglect when I got extremely sick. Tons of debris fell from the trees, it needs to be removed or it'll rot. I wasn't able to remove it and nobody did it for me, so the TONS of rotting acorns killed many fish. I had 4 pools with many fish, I ended up downsizing to only one pool and took the survivors and put them all together. I have a 100 gallon pool with 7 adult goldfish and 4 babies that were accidentally born in there and lived. Massively overstocked. Despite this, the parameters are ALWAYS 0/0/0 year round so long as I keep the net clear of any falling debris which is easy. The pool is in direct sunlight and stays green. It is October and fall and it's still green. It's the green that keeps the system healthy. Try that many fish with a 100 gallon TANK and there would likely be illnesses and issues left and right. I may put up another pool next spring, we will see. I won't get rid of any of my fish. Most have been with me many years and I honestly think they fare better here even with the overstock than in someone's tank.
    1 point
  33. I find my fish do better in an overstocked pond than an overstocked tank. I don't know if the natural sunlight, bugs, algae etc have anything to do with it. But until last year when some mystery disease killed 3/4 of my pondies I didn't have any big problems with my them even when overstocked. Strangely enough all but one of the survivors were fish that were born here. Most of them hatched in the pond. So maybe that was something to do with it too, but I did lose a lot of the fish that were born here as well.
    1 point
  34. and Please copy & paste the following form and fill it out to the best of your ability when requesting help for Goldfish Problems: Test Results for the Following: Ammonia Level(Tank) Nitrite Level(Tank) Nitrate level(Tank) Ammonia Level(Tap) Nitrite Level(Tap) Nitrate level(Tap) Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Other Required Info: Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? Water temperature? Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? How often do you change the water and how much? How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? How many fish in the tank and their size? What kind of water additives or conditioners? What do you feed your fish and how often? Any new fish added to the tank? Any medications added to the tank? List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank.Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? "If copy and paste doesn't work for you, quote this post and put your answers after each question."
    1 point
  35. Hey they do look very cute. We have a sections for about every thing goldfish. Plus there is a search button at the top. Have you read our general guidelines on raising goldfish? I am glad you found us. Yes big forums can be overwhelming. But we will try and help you out as best as we can 🤗
    1 point
  36. Cute. Rascal is a fantail, not a Shubunkin.
    1 point
  37. I like the bigger one the best. His little shape and wen is cute.
    1 point
  38. Are the pink ones comets or just white shubunkins? Almost no color, very curious!
    1 point
  39. I think not breeding true is on an entirely different level when referring to the ethics of a business then surmising that they are passing off hybrids as goldfish. But now I understand you are coming at this entirely from a breeders perspective. I think we can both agree there are MANY EXQUISITE goldfish on Blackwater Creek Koi Farm's web page that AREN'T labeled Sanke that are WELL below $900 that people can enjoy without concern. I am posting pictures of my two goldies that I got from Blackwater. Total they cost my $25 and a 5 hour round trip to their dealer. I am sure they are far from show quality but I find them to be much higher quality in health and looks then the big box stores. I am not much a fan of the small patterned calico highly metallic shubunkins I see at many petco's and petsmart's. The colors just look a bit muddy to me. What I love about Blackwater Creek is they seem to breed for the larger blocks of color that I personally find attractive but most importantly they're fish seem healthy and thriving. Anyway it's been an engaging debate that I think proves people have different priorities when purchasing fish.
    1 point
  40. Thanks a ton Koko. At least something is growing lol
    1 point
  41. That tank is looking great MJ. I love all those lily pads in the tank. 👍
    1 point
  42. Hey! That makes totally since. When I had a full planted tank it cycled very fast and I assumed it was from the plants. But now I see it was cause I was feeding the tank with Excel at that point. I also has a Co2 machine on it. Thank you.
    1 point
  43. welcome back, I recently came back here too. There is always a nice vibe. Please show us your set up.
    1 point
  44. Looks great. Here's my planted goldfish tank. Can't keep anything in place because Shion is a messpot... but I definitely put just enough black sand to cover the bottom. I've never been a fan of bare bottomed tanks.
    1 point
  45. WOW! That came out really cool. I would just keep updating us here. I can't wait to see how it progresses 👍
    1 point
  46. Me too, the wonky ones tend to be my favourites!
    1 point
  47. Yea, I've had ryukins that looks more like fantails but produced nice ryukin looking babies too. But honestly don't care about labels/pet quality/show quality etc. I just look for something that attracts me. I'm never going to show my fish or anything, they are just for me to enjoy 🥰
    1 point
  48. Kinds of medicines to use Potassium Permaganate (pp): Flukes, Columnars, bacterial gill disease and fungus. Gel Tek Penicillin: Fin Rot, Cloudy bulging eyes, Mouth sores, Bacterial infections and Septicemia Tetracycline: Gill disease, Bacterial infections (tail rot, ulcers, sores, dropsy, popeye) Columnaris, Aeromonas, Pseudomonas and Chondocuccus. Ampicillin: Bacterial infections, Popeye, Swollen Body, Kidney disease, Fin rot, Flaxibacter infections and Septicemia. Melafix: Heals open wounds & abrasions, treats fin and tail rot, eye cloud, mouth fungus and promotes regrowth of damaged fin rays & tissue. Life Bearer: Gill Flukes, as well as Fish Lice, Anchor Worms and leeches. QuickCure: Ich, Chilodonella, Trichodina and Costia. Anchors Away: Very effective treatment against Anchor worm (lernea) and Fish Lice (argulus). Nox-Ich: Treats Ich. Maracyn: Body Fungus, Columnaris, Fin and Tail Rot, Popeye, Gill disease, secondary infections, Bacterial Infections and Fungal Diseases. Maracyn Two: Fin and Tail rot, Popeye, Gill disease, Dropsy, Bleeding or Red Streaks, Secondary and Internal infections. Praziquantel (Prazi, Prazi-Pro): Gill and Body Flukes, and Internal Worms like Tapeworms. Dimilin: For the control of Anchor Worm (Lernaea) and and Fish Lice (Argulus). Nitrofura-G; Red Streaks, Fin and Tail Deterioration, Open Sores, General Bacterial Infections, Gill Diseases, and Fungal Infections. Chloramine T: If dosed properly and according to your water hardness, it is very good at helping to cure baterial gill disease (symptoms are swollen and/or pale gills), body fungus and bacterial infections. Acriflavin: Treats Ich, Costia, Chilodonella, and Tetrahymena. Metronidazole: Treats Spironucleus and Hexamita. Used in some SBD cases that are considered to be of bacterial origin. Parasite Clear (Jungle Labs): Treats Flukes, Tapeworms, Ich, Costia, Chilodonella, Tetrahymena, Ergasilus, Epystilus, Argulus, Spironucleus, and Hexamita.
    1 point
  49. I wanted to start a new post about Anchor Worms and my experiences with various treatments, as I think it will be a help to others. There is not much general information out there online about Anchor Worms (Lerrnaea) as they have not been as common of a problem as say Ich or Flukes. I believe that there will be more of a need-- especially with outbreaks taking place at large retailers- and those purchases ending up in the home aquarium. My topline judgment, for those who do not want to read my pontifications, is: If you see one anchor worm on your Goldfish- Please Order the Dimilin X Pond treatment immediately, so you have it, as the infestation will get worse. Its $25 American Dollars on EBay. (Credit for this information to Shihpuff who has also posted on this forum). Most likely the inside of the fish’s mouths and gills will also have the worms attached to them in- either in the invisible larvae or adult form. (Gross!) Dimilin is the only treatment that has worked for me- more on that and the treatments that did not work- later. Anchor Worms are brought in from the outside- and fish do not need to be stressed or be in poor water conditions to have them. I was foolish not to quarantine a fish from Pet Smart which then infected my entire tank. My water conditions were perfect, and I had a very light bio load, so there were no other stressors in my tank to make this parasite worse. I, in turn, made the situation worse, and lost time with a misdiagnosis. Some key observations that got me confused as to what it was I was dealing with: -An anchor worm infestation can mimic fluke-like symptoms- with bottom sitting fish, lethargy and a general sadness of the population. There is so much information on the web about flukes- with good reason- but that hype made me jump initially to the wrong diagnostic conclusion! -Even if you just see one or two Anchor Worms on the outside of the fish- the gills and inside of the mouth is also probably heavily infested- especially if your fish are showing lethargic behavioral symptoms. The invisible larvae also house themselves in the gills of fish, so if you have an adult AW in the tank, chances are you’ll have young Klingons that you cannot see festering in the gills. In sum- You may have them multiplying in areas that you cannot or did not think to previously observe! My Treatment Notes: -Fluke medicine (Prazi) and the API’s Parasite Guard will not address Anchor Worms, even if other sources they say they do. The API Parasite guard simply damaged my filters instead. I have Prazi on hand at least - if I should ever get flukes in my tank! -There is a solution on the market that treats the ‘conditions’ caused by Anchor Worms- but it does not take care of the worms themselves, Please read labels carefully! -Salinity was increased in my tank to 3 TSP / gal- (just under 3.5 of AQ Salt total cups for a 55 gal tank) while this helped with preventing infected wounds & secondary disease caused by the Anchor Worms- it did nothing to control the worm population or their spread. This is also a common statement/solution on the web- which did nothing for my situation. If I were to do it again I would still salt but probably at 1.5-2 tsp per gallon- as 3 tsp per gal is very hard on the bio filter. -The heat was turned up to 79F- to help speed the lifecycle of the worm, this probably made them spread faster- but I wanted them to move through their lifecycle so the treatments I was using would also work sooner on the eggs and future larvae, coming up through the ranks. I’d still recommend increasing the heat during treatments. -1 methylene blue dip was done per day on the fish at 1 TSP per 5 gallons for 30 minutes- I believe this helped with secondary bacterial/fungal prevention but it did nothing to eradicate the worms attached to the the gills, mouth and outer scales. I’d still recommend doing this for lethargic ‘sad’ fish as this helped pep them up a bit. Methylene blue is a mild anti-fungal/bacterial agent that also helps the fish with gill function and oxygen absorption. - Minn Finn, is a Peracetic acid based medication that is left in the tank for 30 min (up to an hour if the fish can handle it) with a neutralizing solution to clear the medication at the end of the treatment period. It states it will control Anchor Worms in 2-3 treatments. Nope, nope and nope. I used this as directed for 1 hour over 3 treatments/days as directed- and it simply did not work. This killed my bio filter from kinda dead -to D.O.A. Now my notes on Dimilin: Dimilin X is the only thing that worked on this parasite. Because Anchor Worms are crustaceans they go through several life stages where they molt their outer skeleton. Dimilin is an Insecticide, NOT a medication. This insecticide interrupts the molting cycle of the worm- not killing it right away- but killing it as it moves through its lifecycle and molts its exoskeleton. In my online ‘research’- it’s the only real guarantee out there for getting the job done. There are university studies done on it for aquatic agriculture. Dimilin is not going to be sold in a big box pet chain store- nor will it likely be in your local indie fish shop. I wouldn’t even try looking for it. You might find it at a specialty koi pond store, if there is one in your area. Its really marketed for larger ponds and for treating koi. The word ‘Insecticide’ sounds scary, but Dimilin is much safer to humans and fish than Formalin, Potassium Perm and other really harsh nasty treatments on the market. Please don’t waste your energy, money and time with other ‘cures’ that say they will work, you’ll just lose equity and valuable time. It’s also noted on the label that it will not stress or harm the bio filter in a system- another huge plus! I used Dimilin X- based on the dosage of 1 TSP per 500 gallons. Have a friend in the hobby? Split the cost as it’s a very very concentrated formula and again is formulated for ponds. I calculated this to a little bit less than 1/8 TSP for my 55 gallon tank! The first 24 hours after treating with Dimilin there was no noticeable change in behavior or the number of attached Anchor Worms- this is understandable as the insecticide is systemic and focuses on exoskeleton formation. It will not kill the parasite immediately. About 30 hours (1.5 days) later- the fish started acting more alert and more like themselves, with more active swimming, attentiveness and less sadness. I caught the fish and noticed that the Anchor Worms attached to the fish were still slightly attached- but appeared to be dead. The ends of the worms closest to the fish’s body looked to me to be almost disintegrated- 'slimey' instead of solid. The worms pulled off with very little effort or discomfort to the fish. When pulling a live anchor worm off a fish- you need a strong tug and the will to pull them out! 48 hours later (2 full days) the fish are acting almost normal- with active swimming and the desire to eat. One of the fish- hit the hardest with bite wounds is still being dipped in meth blue on a daily basis. A couple of worms are still attached to one of the fish but appear to be hanging on dead. 60 hours later (2.5 days) the fish are acting normal- no sign of the attached worms on anyone that I can see. So finally in summary!- I spent two weeks trying to combat this problem with medications/methods that did not work. Dimilin eradicated the pestilence in less than 3 days!
    1 point
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