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  1. Yesterday
  2. Thank you! Great, thank you. I will come back and update you both
  3. In my experience orange ones aren't fertilized, but it wont hurt to keep them for a few more days and see what happens
  4. Definitely does! Got me a bit freaked out there and I did a 35% water change. Are the orange eggs healthy ones? It's been two days and I have three buckets that have eggs in them. One of the buckets had white fuzzy eggs so I threw them all out. The other two buckets seem to have orange eggs but no black dot. Should I throw these too or should I wait a bit longer? Some of the orange eggs don't stick, does that mean they're unhealthy and I should throw them out too?
  5. And man does the water get all milky looking too. 😱
  6. First we need some information. Like how big is the tank? How long has this tank been running?
  7. They are probably remains from eggs, I find my tank always looks a mess after they lay eggs. The tiny white dots are probably left over patches of 'egg glue' as I call it, the eggs form a sticky surface that hardens so they attach to things like rocks, plants and the glass. When the goldfish eat the eggs you often see little spots where they were
  8. That does look like fungus. I would salt the tank first. If that doesn't work. Maybe methane blue.
  9. It looks a bit fungusy to me, what do you think @koko?
  10. I do like the idea of just running sponge filters. My only concern is whenever I see goldfish tanks on YouTube driven by sponge filters, they seem to be really cloudy and have a lot of particulates in the water column. Is this to be expected?
  11. Last week
  12. Hi!! Thank you all for that info. Coffee is back in the 40gallon tank, she is excited for food everyday but still bottom sits a good amount of time. She still has patches on her tail but she does swim around at times, mostly in the evening. This is so confusing. I'm just giving her a break for now and making sure her water is clean.
  13. Ammonia Level(Tank) 0ppm Nitrite Level(Tank) 0ppm Nitrate level(Tank) 20-40ppm (on higher side) Ammonia Level(Tap) 0ppm Nitrite Level(Tap) 0ppm Nitrate level(Tap) 5-10ppm Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.2-7.6 Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.6-7.8/8
  14. Hello, I'm back (if anyone remembers Blacky; I've now had him 11 years!!), in a bit of a sticky situation. History: 2018 Blacky got a small piece of gravel lodged in his nostril which never came out It never caused an issue so just left it there In the last week/2 I feel like he has either gotten another small piece of gravel lodged in the same nostril OR the same piece has moved a bit, it is hard to tell, which I believe has led to the current situation Recently: Last week Blacky was a bit off colour and had a slight white tinge to the gravel nostril so I treated him from the 11th-13th Sep 2020 with the standard dose esha2000 as a broad treatment, whilst being mindful of goldfish's copper sensitivity. After a nearly 100% water change on the 14th he was acting a lot better in himself. Today on the 17th, he again looks a bit off, his dorsal fin is floppier etc. and he also has a lot of mucopurulent looking discharge now coming out of gravel nostril (thinking back I have actually been seeing this in the tank for around a month during water changes but just disregarded it a bit as he has been fine and potentially just stringy poops from times of low food passage). I'm not really sure if it is infected or just irritated, but due to the white discharge would lean towards infected. I presume this is due to local irritation from the lodged bits of gravel (which you now can't see due to the discharge). I don't really know what to do here, and just looking for advice or anyone that has been in a similar situation? My current thoughts are: 1. Try to suction the discharge and gravel pieces out with a piece of airline tubing. However restraining him will be a challenge and very stressful for him as he is a very big fish now. 2. Anaesthetise with clove oil and use a bobby pin sort of instrument (sterilised beforehand) to remove the gravel pieces (if possible not doing this as I would be a nervous wreck and would hate to accidentally do anything completely wrong) And then treat with esha2000 again as a preventative for infection/help heal current infection 3. Or just do another round of esha2000 and hope that resolves it without needing to remove the gravel pieces. I would really appreciate any advice I love this boy to bits, he's my best friend. Thank you in advance I will test my water now and update the post accordingly but I don't think this is a water quality issue. Photos/videos attached. Test Results for the Following: Ammonia Level(Tank) Nitrite Level(Tank) Nitrate level(Tank) Ammonia Level(Tap) Nitrite Level(Tap) Nitrate level(Tap) Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Other Required Info: Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API drops (NB out of date) Water temperature? Room temperature Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 24 US gallons, roughly 7-8 years What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Fluval U2, 400L/hr How often do you change the water and how much? Weekly-biweekly - 80-90% How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? - 14th Sep (3 days ago) 80-90% How many fish in the tank and their size? 1, length of hand (no tail) What kind of water additives or conditioners? Fluval aqua plus water conditioner only What do you feed your fish and how often? Repashy soilent green, everyday Any new fish added to the tank? No Any medications added to the tank? esha2000 11th-13th Sep List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank.Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Within last 2 years nothing else Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? White mucupurluent discharge from affected nostril. A few odd whiter patches on body but he does go through phases of a few marks etc. Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Not himself, dorsal fin a bit floppier. Still eating and swimming
  15. So, today I found some weird white stuff floating around my tank. They look like pieces of skin as they're very thin. I also found some tiny white dots on the tank glass (looks like eggs? decomposed eggs maybe?) and they move to the water circulation. Is this fungus? I saw my goldfish eating something off the glass and I didn't exactly what it was. Is this algae or fungus? Is it harmful?
  16. Oh sure, goldfish generally tolerate large water changes very well, much better than tropicals. In fact we do not recommend less that 50-80% water changes weekly for regular maintenance or their waste volume jacks the nitrates up too too high. Regularly rinsing the poo out of the filters (like, monthly) is also really necessary to keep those levels down. I just try to remember to open my canister at the beginning of every month to rinse out the excess in the tank water before that water change and knock the solids from the filter floss. Otherwise your filters become big nitrate factories with all the decaying food bad waste removed from the tank but still in the system breaking down and producing those huge nitrate amounts. They need to be removed from the water column regularly and from the mechanics filtration regularly but slightly less frequently. If you’re up above 10 ppms of nitrates it’s time, and 20-40 ppms is where we start seeing illness creep in or stress with some of the more delicate fish.
  17. Okie Dokie, I will continue to swap waters until I'm at a desirable nitrate level. I was unaware I could safely perform such large water changes that close in proximity. Sad my little buddy is going to be slightly more blind than previously but I've started a training routine to follow the sound of my tapping to the food on the bottom. As the fish gets closer to the food I tap more rapidly until its within reach then I stop tapping. Thank you for your time, much appreciated.
  18. Okay, nitrates. Do NOT worry about shock, that’s exceedingly rare at these levels and the fish will benefit from bigger water changes. Try at least 50% every two days until they’re down under 10 ppms. Next, the eye. Probably nothing you can do, it looks like scar tissue from an injury based in the pictures. Possibly some melanin change with the pigment going from dark to orange, too. But if the behavior is good, there is nothing I’d recommend doing except fixing the nitrate levels and continuing good care and management of the tank. Your routine and fish look great
  19. Hi Guest Danielle, I am new to the forum myself and saw your posting. First and foremost, I think that's a nice looking fish. At face value from the picture its hard to tell without seeing what the fish looked like before vs. now. with that being said that looks to be a "deep" bodied fish as opposed to the other " long" bodied fish in the picture. Have you noticed any behavioral changes in the fish>? such as other fish chasing / pushing the fish in question? have you noticed the fish swimming around more frantically than normal? Does the fish eat , forage, etc? a side question I have for you, unrelated, I have read that housing the deep body with the long body can cause problems at feeding time as the long bodies are faster and can turbo gobble food, have you experienced this and if so , how were you able to overcome this? Best Regards, Jordan
  20. Thing is, I'm pretty much set, however way I go. I've got the tanks, I've got a linear piston air pump, hundreds of bioballs, 100 litres+ of k1. I also have an old ro system I can disassemble and convert to just carbon for the drip system. I have a few big pond pumps, a uv steriliser and power heads. I just need to decide which way to go.
  21. Why does the female goldfish chase the male around though? Isn't it supposed to be the opposite way? Or are they just playing?
  22. I realized I missed this! I’m in the middle of school with the kids but I’m coming back later to answer the questions, thank you for the details
  23. We had 5 goldfish and they’re tank was quite dirty when I cleaned the glass there were only 4!! There are no signs of the other ones body I assume it died and the 4 ate it. They’ve since got very long think brown pop that sis so long it catches on stuff in tank etc. What should I do?
  24. You could still do a drip system for fills, but you wouldn’t want recirculating among the tanks. Water going in, but draining out in an overflow and not through the filter. You can set your system with one component and not the other. And as someone who uses K1 I have been unimpressed, if it makes you feel any better. UV is okay but in an outdoor system it can be overkill, too, so that’s something to consider. After futzing around with multiple canister and fluidized bed options I’m coming to the conclusion that a good old fashioned sponge in a giant breeder pool is still the superior low current, clean, easy to maintain option. Shocking, but true. But yeah, for continuous good water having a drip/overflow drain system is still a good choice, and maybe use that water in the garden instead of again in tanks. You COULD UV sterilize it and recirculate, but you’re losing mineral/redox potential of the fresh water in, old water out, approach.
  25. You don’t need to separate him. If rearranging the tank doesn’t help, you can float a plastic colander or breeder box in there to give him a time out safe space to heal and not be chased like these - https://hdsupplysolutions.com/p/plastic-5-quart-colander-p752520?cid=ppc_all_bi_pfd_Shop|HDSS|US|Food Service&s_kwcid=AL!10728!10!81226492389820!4584826053537487&ef_id=X2H9KQAAACTkWVIu:20200916065521:s
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